Does anyone know the microswitch part number in the thumb buttons? I have a flaky one that needs to be replaced and I couldn't find the part number. It's be a good time to switch it over when I add the LED thumb buttons

Captive Eyeball - I have scoured all of the interwebs I can find for a new floating eyeball of the correct 1-1/16" diameter with no luck. Anyone have any ideas or leads? I've read the Pinball Rebel ordeal of reconditioning one, and that's not going to happen. Ideas?

The LED buttons have an integrated switch dude.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demolition-man-owners-club-members-only/page/14#post-3898033

https://www.pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/d1091_Demolition_Man_Williams_flipperkast_translite_alternatief.html

Cool buttons most definitely!

Check if this fits for you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demolition-man-owners-club-members-only/page/14#post-3918868

...I have same problem but not willing to pay 40$ posts to get 8$ toy
Can someone from DemoClub bring me one eye from US when coming to Finland

LSoG doesn't have these in stock, it appears that nobody in the US has them. Mine is dried up too, so I just replaced it with a pinball until I can find one.
This is the only place on earth that I could find, that actually claims to have them in stock... http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/floating-eyeball/

Could this eyeball be any good.
ebay.com link: Vintage Floating Rolling EYEBALL Novelty Scary Toy

Just picked up my demolition man, I’ve been enjoying it. Always one of my favorites since I first played it when it came out

Too big.

Wondering if someone could post a picture of how the upper slingshot plastic is oriented. I took it off today when cleaning it and putting new rubbers on and can't quite envision how it was prior to taking it off. I took a lot of pictures before removing the ramps etc, but just didn't get that angle.

Thanks!

I don't have a plastic over my upper slingshot. Is there supposed to be one there?

DM (resized).jpg

Can anyone post a picture of the 2 cars on the playfield? I have found one of them to be broken and need replacement (not the police one).

Also can you explain me how the cars mechanism works?? How is it supposed to move the first car??

Thanks

image (resized).jpg

I eventually figured out the orientation of it. Not exactly intuitive at first since there is only one screw hole, but I figured it out by trial and error.

IMG_2762 (resized).JPG

I'm considering getting some new chromed handles for DM. I recall in the past seeing a mod that had LED lit thumb buttons in the handle but can't see to find that setup anywhere. Does anyone know where I can pick one of those up?

Has anyone located a US shipper that has those LED push buttons for the handles? I'm wary to deviate from what the OP linked since I know they. Seems like there are some variations out there with different connectors and he mentioned the need to have a resistor, which was included. Just wonder if anyone has tackled this project yet.....

I've looked at a couple here;

ebay.com link: 0

Here

ebay.com link: 0

And here

ebay.com link: 0

The 3rd link is the ones I bought, except I went with the pair deal, and got them in black. They are excellent quality and I had them in 3 days from ordering. I highly DO NOT recommend the flush type button, they would be difficult to operate. These have a raised button identical to the originals.
ebay.com link: 2X Durable 12mm Elevated Car Black Button Blue Angel Eye LED Momentary Switch
Chrome...
ebay.com link: 2X Durable 12mm Elevated Car Push Button Blue Angel Eye LED Momentary Switch

I'll check those out. It looks like there Are two power connection points and two wires sticking down, is that where the diode connects to?

The only ones I could find in a pair as you describe in a "momentary switch" type are these but the connection points look totally different.

ebay.com link: 0

Did you install them yet? Curious to know, specifically, where the original poster tapped in. He mentioned something about 12v wires near flipper buttons?

You can get +12v from the each of the flipper boards or from the coindoor board.

I promise I don't mean to be an ass here, but i'm a bit reluctant to guide you on modifying your buttons, because it really doesn't sound like you know what you're doing. I don't want to feel responsible if you blow up your CPU, P/D or CDI board trying to figure it out.
I will tell you this... There is 12v available at the coin-door interface board, which has a label at each pin, so if you can read english, you can find that. The switches in the handles do not use a diode at the switches, they are on the coin-door interface board. The Angel Eye buttons have 4 solder connections, 2 for the switch wires, and 2 for 12v power to the LED. No matter what Angel Eye buttons you buy, you will need to connect a load resistor for the LED. Some will include the resistor, some may not. The ones I suggested DO come with a resistor.

Yes, I bought and installed the ones I gave you the link for, but I am an electronics expert and know what i'm doing... It was time consuming to build a proper harness for the 12v, but it was incredibly simple for me and they fit, look and work perfect. But if you don't want to take my advice because you don't understand what a "momentary" switch is, that's your decision... Pickup some latching types, and let us know about what interesting malfunction havoc they cause!!

Photos...

Image1.jpg

4147 (resized).JPG

Which type you bought?
Can you give a link?

Scroll up dude...

So, I don't live in a world where I blame my woes on a message board post. If I f*** up my pin, it's on me.

Now, with that being said, you're right. I'm not an electronics expert and this is my first pin. But, I've already had it apart, cleaned, soldered many wires and connection points on various boards, replaced switches, sockets and diodes. I can figure it out with a detailed guide. Whether or not you provide that is up to you, but people like me benefit from knowledge that guys like you have. I know there is more than once person in this group that is interested in this mod.

I can read English, so whatever you post, I can follow. But, it's not like we are paying you for this, it's up to you if you want post or not. If you do think creating the harness is that difficult for newbies like me, let me know how much $ I have to PayPal you to create this button/wiring combo and we can go from there.

Thanks!

Well, im not psychic, I don't know what skills you have, just that your posts on this subject don't give the impression that you have the skills or knowledge to pull this off. I never said you blowing up your game would be my fault, but being a compassionate person, I feel bad when something bad happens as a result of me trying to help someone. And I HAVE been blamed for people blowing up their boards by not following my instructions correctly! I currently have 10 pins and i've been working on them for 26 years, this is not my first day, and i've had many bad experiences over the years trying to help people! "No good deed goes unpunished". Go ask the folks in the "Getaway Club", I no longer provide, and refuse to offer ANY technical info in that thread for this very reason.

I basically gave you all the immediate info you need to get your project going, if you have the skills to apply the information. If you decide to order the buttons I suggested, I will give you the pinout of the Angel Eyes, as they do not come with one. Or if you know how to use a meter, you would be able to figure that out yourself easily. With the skills you claim to have, you should be able to build a harness for the 12v without any help from me... The pic shows you where to get 12v, and you know where the wires go!

Well, I appreciate all you've given me so far. My working knowledge of electronics is not such that I can map this out on my own. If I had a guide, I'd certainly be able to do it, but having never done this I wouldn't want to just take a shot in the dark. Kind of like rebuilding flippers, I wouldn't try it without vid's guide.

Thanks again for the info you've provided so far.

If there's anyone else on this group has done this mod and would feel comfortable creating a step by step or even just pictures of each connection point, id appreciate it!

Here you go, these are the black onlyest used in his picture.

ebay.com link: 711 53200 19255 0

In order to do that, i'd have to take my handles apart, undo everything and then redo it taking pics along the way... Which I did not do, and had no reason to do the first time. And a text-only description is where things get misunderstood and bad things happen.

Actually, here is a pic I took of the 12v harness I made, but before I put the molex's on the ends. But it shows the header connector that connects to the CDI board. I dont see how this would help anyone, but its the only "during" pic I took.

IMG_4146.JPG

So, once you created that harness, it's simply a matter of soldering in a resistor and the ends of the harness to the appropriate prongs on the switch? If so, I think I can handle this. I'm also interested in learning how to create a pinout. I'll do some youtubing on that....

Nice, just ordered a pair as well!

Robo,

If you dive in, would be great if you could do a photo tutorial of the install!

Thanks!

I randomly came across this last night ...

http://www.jamescardona.com/DM.html

Has anyone tried this code? If so, what are your thoughts? There are some things I really like about it, but other things I'm not so sure about. I definitely like how the custom code eliminates the ability to easily start the multiballs via the cryo claw. This is a very welcome change which makes the game much more challenging. That being said, it seems like the original code, while flawed, may still be the better option.

On a related note, I installed the profanity ROMs the other day. I like them a lot. My kids are older now so I don't mind the swearing, and they seem to offer a lot more callouts.

Just install soren's mod if that's your only issue

Thanks for the tip! I had to look up what "soren's mod" was. That's exactly what I'm looking for. As it stands, there is virtually no reason to ever choose anything but Quick Freeze from the claw if you are playing for score. This one small tweak completely changes that. I'll have to do some research and figure out how to apply the patch.

Now if someone can just come up with a tweak that gives players a compelling reason to ever shoot the car crash shot ...

I'd love something to balance the car crash and modes, and maybe make retina scan give some useful (computer style) awards

Hey gang, i'm offering these up before listing on ebay (at a much higher price)... I have a set of 2 "Retro Refurbs" lower cab side decals available for sale if anyone needs. And since apparently RR has gotten in some sort of trouble again with Bally/Williams and is no longer selling them, and everyone else is out of stock on them, this may be your last chance to get your hands on these. They are phenomenal quality!
$150 shipped to the lower 48. First to PM and Paypal f/f, gets them.

Image1.jpg

I just blew up my board reading this post while soldering, it's all your fault!

Hard resets are becoming more frequent, apparently it's not uncommon with WPC's. I have the pinwiki on how to trouble shoot it, but before I do, is there a common cause for DM that I should start with?

It typically happens mid game which is going really well then just resets.

Bridge rectifiers and capacitors on the driver board. They start to fail when warm and will reset the CPU

It seems like those are rated for approximately 1000 hours of usage depending on how much heat they're exposed to over the course of time. Seems like a scary fix for a newbie, but I'll willing to give it a shot. Are there any good references out there on how to accomplish this?

Has anyone tried to polish their handles rather than send them out for chrome/paint/powder coating? I have polished up ball guides, ramps, and hardware before but was wondering if it was worth it to try the handles. On mine, the coating has worn through past the copper? plating so it might be too far gone.

If they are that worn, I don't think there is much you can do other that to get them redone. I will say that nice shiny chrome handles look and feel awesome!

I agree, mine were worn through as well, rechroming was worth the $ 250 CND...IMO

IMG_20170918_143001 (resized).jpg

Guys, I'm new to the WPC world.... and this is going to be a baptism by fire... ready for a challenge?

I picked up a DM recently and it needs work. I am hoping you guys can help me out…This is my first WPC based hardware machine and it’s a bit of a head scratcher… so if you guys can be patience with this formerly-routed machine, anything would help!

Visual Inspection
1. Cabinet looks good/decent, just really dirty
2. Playfield is really nice, a few cracked plastics but everything appears to be there, just dirty.. ramps could use a good cleaning

Electronic Inspection
1. Game doesn’t boot
2. Initially, boards get power, everything including PF has the red LED,
3. No DMD
4. DMD Controller board is toast
5. Noticed there is a Peter Chou PSU inside the cab and it appears to be wired into the 5v section of the MPU board. The PSU has a Williams sticker on it.. is this supposed to be here?
6. Also in the bottom cab, there is a harness going from the transformer and is split with 2 molex connectors.. there is nothing connected to these so they are left disconnected.. What is supposed to connect to this?

I played around with the additional Peter Chou PSU and after reading something about WPC, they need 5v to boot, and I did get the machine to boot!!
1. No DMD
2. Game boots, there are sounds from the coin up and I can get into test mode, but its blind with no dmd
3. Attract mode works
4. Got 5 balls in the trough and credit-up, GAME STARTS!
5. All sounds work
6. MPU board along those 3 leds, the top one goes out and the 2nd one starts blinking like normal Williams games when in play. Anything else I should look at here?

Now the weirdness,
1. The game starts and the launch ball button doesn’t work – the right trigger launches the ball.
2. The ball will launch and a couple coils go off on impact,
3. Sometimes the right side VUK just goes off by itself and repeats after 15 seconds for a while , Sometimes the VUK going off kicks the game to reboot..
4. The right side kickback autofire thing went off for ball 2 and it looks like the power going to the coils ends up resetting the mpu and the game restarts back into attract mode, so the ball is in play, but and a coil reacts and gi lights go out and then come back in attract mode.
5. Coils don’t seem to hold

Uh.. I know this probably reads worse than it is, but I guess first is

1. What’s the loose harness for in the cab? It’s by the transformer, look like 9 pin harnesses,
2. Uh, I have no idea if my dmd is really bad or not, but the DMD controller HV section looks rough.. I could retrace it, but it does get hot when the machine is on.

Can you take a picture of the harness?

If the dmd or board is suspect, first thing to do is unplug the dmd to prevent damage. Check the voltages coming out of the dmd board. If they're incorrect, rebuild the hv section or buy a new board. Those boards always get hot so it might not be a problem.

That psu shouldn't be there. The mpu gets its 5v from the driver board. As does the dmd board... Check the 5v test point and fix that if there's a problem, take the other psu out.

Vuk firing is probably an opto problem.

Check diodes on the coils if they're resetting the mpu.

ok, yes a couple diodes are out on the right flipper, not sure what else is broken as its quite the basket case.

it also has a ton of bulbs out, like more bulbs are out than working...

When I got mine only three bulbs in the whole machine worked... Thought for sure there must be a board/connector problem, or at least bad solder joints on the lamp boards

Yeah, i was/am half thinking a lamp circuit is out, but the bulbs so far have actually been blown...

On yours, what did it end up being?

Lots of bad bulbs. Replaced every one and they all worked. Not even a bad socket or joint anywhere