Demolition Man Owners Club.... Members Only!

(Topic ID: 31302)

Demolition Man Owners Club.... Members Only!


By Rascal_H

6 years ago



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  • 1,304 posts
  • 264 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by GreenMachine19
  • Topic is favorited by 86 Pinsiders

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There are 1304 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 27.
#701 1 year ago
Quoted from supermoot:

I can't find a pic of it, I may be confused with sttng.

Thanks...! nope, the one you are referring is a rectangular-shape that sits above the "car chase" tunnel, I have that one installed. Still, no idea where this one fits.

Thanks again!

~ja

#702 1 year ago
Quoted from smiley:

do you have the right size rubber? one size too big would allow that.

I'll see if the next size smaller fits. I didn't swap them on this game so I'm not sure.
Game is buried right now as I'm moving a bunch of stuff around but I'll snap a pic tomorrow.

#703 1 year ago
Quoted from mymalibu:

Update, thought I had it covered with new batteries and it worked for a few days now back to factory resets every time. Need to check where battery holder connects to the board... and pin 28 of u8 as suggested by Zacaj....

Check the battery holder terminals for corrosion. sometimes they get corroded and failed to make contact with the battery i usually clean them with a knife by scraping them. It will work and get you by. If its too bad changing the battery holder is best.

#704 1 year ago
Quoted from ibjeepin:

Check the battery holder terminals for corrosion. sometimes they get corroded and failed to make contact with the battery i usually clean them with a knife by scraping them. It will work and get you by. If its too bad changing the battery holder is best.

You can always add NVRAM and ditch the batteries altogether.

#705 1 year ago
Quoted from Tim_may:

You can always add NVRAM and ditch the batteries altogether.

But then the clock would never work...

#706 1 year ago
Quoted from ibjeepin:

Check the battery holder terminals for corrosion. sometimes they get corroded and failed to make contact with the battery i usually clean them with a knife by scraping them. It will work and get you by. If its too bad changing the battery holder is best.

Turns out the remote battery holder was bad.Process of elimination got to the bottom of it. Put the batteries in the original holder and all good.. using lithiums and plan to change yearly so should be no problem.Might even just get a new remote.

On another thought, has anyone encountered only one ball for museum multi ball. Periodically my pin only gives me the ball that was in the top lock and not one from the trough...opto,s seem to work fine so just seeing if there has been this problem before and what the fix might be. Thanks Dmen!

#707 1 year ago
Quoted from mymalibu:

Turns out the remote battery holder was bad.Process of elimination got to the bottom of it. Put the batteries in the original holder and all good.. using lithiums and plan to change yearly so should be no problem.Might even just get a new remote.
On another thought, has anyone encountered only one ball for museum multi ball. Periodically my pin only gives me the ball that was in the top lock and not one from the trough...opto,s seem to work fine so just seeing if there has been this problem before and what the fix might be. Thanks Dmen!

See if wiggling back and forth helps. Could be divots in the trough

#708 1 year ago

I ended up just changing that right rubber and so far no errant balls so maybe the old new one just was losing elasticity.

#709 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

See if wiggling back and forth helps. Could be divots in the trough

Will do ,thanks again zacaj

#710 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Quoted from Tim_may:You can always add NVRAM and ditch the batteries altogether.
But then the clock would never work...

and...

#711 1 year ago

The tilt on this bad boy is really sensitive. However I have set it, it double warns and tilts instantly. Any ideas?

#712 1 year ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

The tilt on this bad boy is really sensitive. However I have set it, it double warns and tilts instantly. Any ideas?

I've seen someone do a trick of sticking an ear plug in the loop where the bob hangs to deaden the swinging

1 week later
#713 1 year ago

An anyone explain how to get my claw back in range? The optos were bad, so I replaced them and verified they both work. When I turned the game on after installing them, the claw moved to the left, past the leftmost lane, and stopped, but the game still says the claw is out of range, and I have no way to move it?

#714 1 year ago

Gently force it to move right. Put it in test mode and move Claw in middle and move it with your hand to right just a little bit. If it still complains about being out of range then move it little more. You can feel little resistance when the gears are moving.

#715 1 year ago
Quoted from AmpeRage:

Gently force it to move right. Put it in test mode and move Claw in middle and move it with your hand to right just a little bit. If it still complains about being out of range then move it little more. You can feel little resistance when the gears are moving.

I can't turn much by hand. Do you know which way 'right' and 'left' are? (clockwise?) I was able to get it just at the edge with lot of work, and when I selected 'move right' (which I thought would bring it counter-clockwise towards the elevator) it moved the other way a bit and then it was back out of range! Wondering if my controller board might have an issue if it's going backwards.

#716 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I can't turn much by hand. Do you know which way 'right' and 'left' are? (clockwise?) I was able to get it just at the edge with lot of work, and when I selected 'move right' (which I thought would bring it counter-clockwise towards the elevator) it moved the other way a bit and then it was back out of range! Wondering if my controller board might have an issue if it's going backwards.

Are you using the sabe board or a new one? I had the same issue with a new board, opto sensors were smaller than the originals. I had to put the board closer to the cams by using thin washers, problem fixed.

#717 1 year ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Are you using the sabe board or a new one? I had the same issue with a new board, opto sensors were smaller than the originals. I had to put the board closer to the cams by using thin washers, problem fixed.

All original boards, as far as I know. I'm going to try using my motor controller in a friend's game, see if it works. Considering how much other stuff on this game was broken it won't surprise me

#718 1 year ago

I have outdated firmware (the original), and I'd like to update it. I also have the original sound rom, is that worth the update? It's a bit on the pricy side....

#719 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I have outdated firmware (the original), and I'd like to update it. I also have the original sound rom, is that worth the update? It's a bit on the pricy side....

Is it even compatible?

#720 1 year ago

Well I can buy the Roms with updated firmware and sound from thatpinballplace.com. I don't know why they wouldn't be?

#721 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Well I can buy the Roms with updated firmware and sound from thatpinballplace.com. I don't know why they wouldn't be?

If you buy all new you'll be fine, but I'm not sure offhand if newer game roms would be compatible with older sound

#722 1 year ago

I need some help from community here.Asking for help for a week and I do everything that I can,I'm not lazy man,but still no one respond me with some idea:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demolition-man-claw-problem-1

And I pleased you for give me some info for this situation:

Before the claw catch the ball it move nice and quiet,but when it catch the ball I can hear that when the claw move did it little slower than when it's without the ball and much louder,like it's hard to move.And when it's on position with the ball no matter on which mode(not move) I can here some strange snore from the mechanism and can fell little vibration.
When I test it in TEST MENU it move nice even with the ball.
I doubt this must be normal so please again confirm how work your machine.I know that the magnet must have some noise because it work when catch the ball,but this cannot be from it,it's too small to make noise like this.

#723 1 year ago

Bump, has anyone encountered only one ball for fortress multi ball. Periodically my pin only gives me the ball that was in the top lock and not one from the trough...opto,s seem to work fine so just seeing if there has been this problem before and what the fix might be. Thanks Dmen! I did check the trough for divots etc as Zacaj suggested but it appears fine. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

#724 1 year ago

During game play, my DM has started doing random ball searches. In the course of an hour it happened about three times as the ball was in active play. Any ideas where to start looking for the culprit?

#725 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

During game play, my DM has started doing random ball searches. In the course of an hour it happened about three times as the ball was in active play. Any ideas where to start looking for the culprit?

make sue there are 5 balls in the trough before you power it on next time. If there are, go into switch test and make sure all 5 optos are seeing a ball.

#726 1 year ago
Quoted from mymalibu:

Bump, has anyone encountered only one ball for fortress multi ball. Periodically my pin only gives me the ball that was in the top lock and not one from the trough...opto,s seem to work fine so just seeing if there has been this problem before and what the fix might be. Thanks Dmen! I did check the trough for divots etc as Zacaj suggested but it appears fine. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

You say the trough appears fine, but how does it feel? Mine didn't look too bad when I first got this game, but it felt rough and I had similar problems with multiballs. Filed the trough smooth and no problems since.

#727 1 year ago

Pinbits makes a cool lexan protector which will get rid of it completely and won't ding your balls up when they fall in

#728 1 year ago

I've noticed since installing my LEDs that when the flippers are activated it very faintly dims the GI. Has anyone seen this happen before? Wondering if the GI OCD board would fix this or if theres something else I can do?

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

make sue there are 5 balls in the trough before you power it on next time. If there are, go into switch test and make sure all 5 optos are seeing a ball.

I'll make sure of that next time and keep an eye on it. I have done the switch test on the opto's and they all check out fine. It could have been the ball in trough issue as I was working on it previous to that.

#729 1 year ago

I was hoping you guys could check my work. Ramp and loop shots are hard, typically the ball makes it 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the ramps and then it rolls back. To me, this means it's flipper rebuild time. I was hoping you guys could check my "shopping list" and let me know if the parts I have in the cart are all I need. I used Vid's flipper rebuild guide to make sure I got the "extras" although I think the EOS switch he recommends isn't for DM games according the the pinball life website. I think I'll stick with the stock EOS that come with the kit, unless that's a bad idea? I ordered an extra "left flipper kit" for the third upper flipper. The coils look like the originals as well so I figure I could replace those. I attached a picture of my shopping cart, let me know how it looks!

Alternatively, I could spend an extra $20 and save myself a few hours by just buying the complete assemblies.....hmmmm

Thank you!

Screen Shot 2017-09-29 at 9.05.59 AM (resized).png

#730 1 year ago

The flipper parts are ok,but you need stronger coil FL-11629.
FL-11630 that you marked is weak.
Also check if your Flipper controller board is very well secured on the metal plate.

#731 1 year ago
Quoted from arakissun:

The flipper parts are ok,but you need stronger coil FL-11629.
FL-11630 that you marked is weak.
Also check if your Flipper controller board is very well secured on the metal plate.

I think the upper flipper is the 11630

#732 1 year ago

Yes,for it is 11630.
Buy and new coils for the main flippers.
I have experience with old one even they look and measure ok to be problematic.

#733 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Pinbits makes a cool lexan protector which will get rid of it completely and won't ding your balls up when they fall in

Hey Zacaj do you happen to have a part number for the trough protector? can,t seem to find it on pinbits.

And the games continue...DM shutting off during game play for a second ,completely black then comes back on. I'll check the power molex connections but has this happened to anyone else?

#735 1 year ago

Do you guys think just to save the time and hassle to get the fully assembled units versus doing the rebuild on my own?

I could alternatively buy 2 11629 for lower flippers and an 11630 for the upper and call it good. Other options are coil stops and EOS switches. I think for a few bucks extra it's worth it to just buy the complete assemblies. Here's what I'm looking at;

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

#737 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Do you guys think just to save the time and hassle to get the fully assembled units versus doing the rebuild on my own?
I could alternatively buy 2 11629 for lower flippers and an 11630 for the upper and call it good. Other options are coil stops and EOS switches. I think for a few bucks extra it's worth it to just buy the complete assemblies. Here's what I'm looking at;
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

Get the kits and rebuild them yourself. It is very easy and you'll feel better about your skills when you're done. Vid's guide is awesome. Also, the manual is your friend. All of the assemblies with part numbers are in there to plug into the search field at the supplier of your choice's website.

Also to note - Vid's guide uses NORMALLY CLOSED EOS, and Demo Man uses NORMALLY OPEN EOS.

#738 1 year ago

Thanks guys! One more question, the "shoot again" lamp doesn't work. I've checked that there is power getting to the socket and I tried multiple bulbs. Next up I'm going to replace the socket. Since I'm getting my parts for the flippers from pinballlife I'll get a socket there as well. They don't have the 3 pronged socket with a diode. But they have a socket and a diode. I can't find in the manual if this is the right diode though. Does this look right?

Here's the socket

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=285

Here's the diode

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173

#739 1 year ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I can't find in the manual if this is the right diode though. Does this look right?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173

Yes, that diode can be used everywhere in any pin that requires a diode. Buy a bunch of them to keep on hand.

#740 1 year ago

I just joined the club for the first time. Man, you forget how heavy these SuperPins are until you move one again. My back and shoulders will definitely be hurting for a few days.

I'm really enjoying the game so far. You definitely get a lot of bang for the buck with this one. Overall, the game is in very nice shape. There are a couple of small blemishes in the translite, though. I'm thinking about grabbing a new one, but there is no way I'm paying $120 for a NOS one given how much I hate the artwork. Does anyone have any quality alternates that they would recommend? I'd love to see photos of some cool ones installed.

DM (resized).jpg
DM buttons (resized).jpg

#741 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I just joined the club for the first time.

Nice looking DM! Did you buy it in that shape or have you modded it already? Could you tell me where you got those lit buttons on the handles? I'm in the process of bringing a container DM back to life and it could use a little bling!

#742 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Nice looking DM! Did you buy it in that shape or have you modded it already? Could you tell me where you got those lit buttons on the handles?

Thanks! All I did was swap out a couple dozen LED's in the backbox and inserts. The game already had Mike Chestnut chromed handles, GI and LED OCD boards, and the blue LED buttons you inquired about. My buddy that I bought the game from installed the buttons. I don't know where he got them, but I'll ask.

#743 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Nice looking DM! Did you buy it in that shape or have you modded it already? Could you tell me where you got those lit buttons on the handles? I'm in the process of bringing a container DM back to life and it could use a little bling!

add me to on where those lit trigger buttons came from...thanks for looking into it for us!

#744 1 year ago

I'm all for the thumb button lights very cool.

#745 1 year ago

I spoke with my friend last night. He purchased the buttons on eBay. He's going to try to get me a link to them. They were not marketed specifically for DM. He just grabbed them because they fit.

#746 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I spoke with my friend last night. He purchased the buttons on eBay. He's going to try to get me a link to them. They were not marketed specifically for DM. He just grabbed them because they fit.

There are many option and button styles out there that could be used to replace the Demo Man pushbuttons. None of them including the ones this guy used are direct replacements or the original style... Wiring modifications will be required.

#747 1 year ago

Okay, here's a link to the buttons ...

ebay.com link » 1pc Angel Eye Blue Ring Led 12mm 12v Metal Switch Momentary Push Button

No modifications are needed to mount them. You just have to run two extra wires up into the handles to power them. My friend tapped into the 12v at the flipper boards near the flipper buttons. You'll need to add a resister to drop the voltage to the LED, but they are supplied with the buttons.

#748 1 year ago

Thx a ton! Just ordered some

#749 1 year ago

Thank you and your friend for the button info!

#750 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Okay, here's a link to the buttons ...

If you dont want to wait to get these from China, poke around ebay, theres plenty of US sellers to get them from.

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