Thanks...! nope, the one you are referring is a rectangular-shape that sits above the "car chase" tunnel, I have that one installed. Still, no idea where this one fits.

Thanks again!

~ja

I'll see if the next size smaller fits. I didn't swap them on this game so I'm not sure.
Game is buried right now as I'm moving a bunch of stuff around but I'll snap a pic tomorrow.

Check the battery holder terminals for corrosion. sometimes they get corroded and failed to make contact with the battery i usually clean them with a knife by scraping them. It will work and get you by. If its too bad changing the battery holder is best.

You can always add NVRAM and ditch the batteries altogether.

But then the clock would never work...

Turns out the remote battery holder was bad.Process of elimination got to the bottom of it. Put the batteries in the original holder and all good.. using lithiums and plan to change yearly so should be no problem.Might even just get a new remote.

On another thought, has anyone encountered only one ball for museum multi ball. Periodically my pin only gives me the ball that was in the top lock and not one from the trough...opto,s seem to work fine so just seeing if there has been this problem before and what the fix might be. Thanks Dmen!

See if wiggling back and forth helps. Could be divots in the trough

I ended up just changing that right rubber and so far no errant balls so maybe the old new one just was losing elasticity.

Will do ,thanks again zacaj

and...

The tilt on this bad boy is really sensitive. However I have set it, it double warns and tilts instantly. Any ideas?

I've seen someone do a trick of sticking an ear plug in the loop where the bob hangs to deaden the swinging

An anyone explain how to get my claw back in range? The optos were bad, so I replaced them and verified they both work. When I turned the game on after installing them, the claw moved to the left, past the leftmost lane, and stopped, but the game still says the claw is out of range, and I have no way to move it?

Gently force it to move right. Put it in test mode and move Claw in middle and move it with your hand to right just a little bit. If it still complains about being out of range then move it little more. You can feel little resistance when the gears are moving.

I can't turn much by hand. Do you know which way 'right' and 'left' are? (clockwise?) I was able to get it just at the edge with lot of work, and when I selected 'move right' (which I thought would bring it counter-clockwise towards the elevator) it moved the other way a bit and then it was back out of range! Wondering if my controller board might have an issue if it's going backwards.

Are you using the sabe board or a new one? I had the same issue with a new board, opto sensors were smaller than the originals. I had to put the board closer to the cams by using thin washers, problem fixed.

All original boards, as far as I know. I'm going to try using my motor controller in a friend's game, see if it works. Considering how much other stuff on this game was broken it won't surprise me

I have outdated firmware (the original), and I'd like to update it. I also have the original sound rom, is that worth the update? It's a bit on the pricy side....

Is it even compatible?

Well I can buy the Roms with updated firmware and sound from thatpinballplace.com. I don't know why they wouldn't be?

If you buy all new you'll be fine, but I'm not sure offhand if newer game roms would be compatible with older sound

I need some help from community here.Asking for help for a week and I do everything that I can,I'm not lazy man,but still no one respond me with some idea:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/demolition-man-claw-problem-1

And I pleased you for give me some info for this situation:

Before the claw catch the ball it move nice and quiet,but when it catch the ball I can hear that when the claw move did it little slower than when it's without the ball and much louder,like it's hard to move.And when it's on position with the ball no matter on which mode(not move) I can here some strange snore from the mechanism and can fell little vibration.
When I test it in TEST MENU it move nice even with the ball.
I doubt this must be normal so please again confirm how work your machine.I know that the magnet must have some noise because it work when catch the ball,but this cannot be from it,it's too small to make noise like this.

Bump, has anyone encountered only one ball for fortress multi ball. Periodically my pin only gives me the ball that was in the top lock and not one from the trough...opto,s seem to work fine so just seeing if there has been this problem before and what the fix might be. Thanks Dmen! I did check the trough for divots etc as Zacaj suggested but it appears fine. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

During game play, my DM has started doing random ball searches. In the course of an hour it happened about three times as the ball was in active play. Any ideas where to start looking for the culprit?

make sue there are 5 balls in the trough before you power it on next time. If there are, go into switch test and make sure all 5 optos are seeing a ball.

You say the trough appears fine, but how does it feel? Mine didn't look too bad when I first got this game, but it felt rough and I had similar problems with multiballs. Filed the trough smooth and no problems since.

Pinbits makes a cool lexan protector which will get rid of it completely and won't ding your balls up when they fall in

I've noticed since installing my LEDs that when the flippers are activated it very faintly dims the GI. Has anyone seen this happen before? Wondering if the GI OCD board would fix this or if theres something else I can do?

I'll make sure of that next time and keep an eye on it. I have done the switch test on the opto's and they all check out fine. It could have been the ball in trough issue as I was working on it previous to that.

I was hoping you guys could check my work. Ramp and loop shots are hard, typically the ball makes it 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the ramps and then it rolls back. To me, this means it's flipper rebuild time. I was hoping you guys could check my "shopping list" and let me know if the parts I have in the cart are all I need. I used Vid's flipper rebuild guide to make sure I got the "extras" although I think the EOS switch he recommends isn't for DM games according the the pinball life website. I think I'll stick with the stock EOS that come with the kit, unless that's a bad idea? I ordered an extra "left flipper kit" for the third upper flipper. The coils look like the originals as well so I figure I could replace those. I attached a picture of my shopping cart, let me know how it looks!

Alternatively, I could spend an extra $20 and save myself a few hours by just buying the complete assemblies.....hmmmm

Thank you!

Screen Shot 2017-09-29 at 9.05.59 AM (resized).png

The flipper parts are ok,but you need stronger coil FL-11629.
FL-11630 that you marked is weak.
Also check if your Flipper controller board is very well secured on the metal plate.

I think the upper flipper is the 11630

Yes,for it is 11630.
Buy and new coils for the main flippers.
I have experience with old one even they look and measure ok to be problematic.

Hey Zacaj do you happen to have a part number for the trough protector? can,t seem to find it on pinbits.

And the games continue...DM shutting off during game play for a second ,completely black then comes back on. I'll check the power molex connections but has this happened to anyone else?

Marco has it too.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

Do you guys think just to save the time and hassle to get the fully assembled units versus doing the rebuild on my own?

I could alternatively buy 2 11629 for lower flippers and an 11630 for the upper and call it good. Other options are coil stops and EOS switches. I think for a few bucks extra it's worth it to just buy the complete assemblies. Here's what I'm looking at;

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

Thanks Smiley....

Get the kits and rebuild them yourself. It is very easy and you'll feel better about your skills when you're done. Vid's guide is awesome. Also, the manual is your friend. All of the assemblies with part numbers are in there to plug into the search field at the supplier of your choice's website.

Also to note - Vid's guide uses NORMALLY CLOSED EOS, and Demo Man uses NORMALLY OPEN EOS.

Thanks guys! One more question, the "shoot again" lamp doesn't work. I've checked that there is power getting to the socket and I tried multiple bulbs. Next up I'm going to replace the socket. Since I'm getting my parts for the flippers from pinballlife I'll get a socket there as well. They don't have the 3 pronged socket with a diode. But they have a socket and a diode. I can't find in the manual if this is the right diode though. Does this look right?

Here's the socket

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=285

Here's the diode

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173

Yes, that diode can be used everywhere in any pin that requires a diode. Buy a bunch of them to keep on hand.

I just joined the club for the first time. Man, you forget how heavy these SuperPins are until you move one again. My back and shoulders will definitely be hurting for a few days.

I'm really enjoying the game so far. You definitely get a lot of bang for the buck with this one. Overall, the game is in very nice shape. There are a couple of small blemishes in the translite, though. I'm thinking about grabbing a new one, but there is no way I'm paying $120 for a NOS one given how much I hate the artwork. Does anyone have any quality alternates that they would recommend? I'd love to see photos of some cool ones installed.

DM (resized).jpg
DM buttons (resized).jpg

Nice looking DM! Did you buy it in that shape or have you modded it already? Could you tell me where you got those lit buttons on the handles? I'm in the process of bringing a container DM back to life and it could use a little bling!

Thanks! All I did was swap out a couple dozen LED's in the backbox and inserts. The game already had Mike Chestnut chromed handles, GI and LED OCD boards, and the blue LED buttons you inquired about. My buddy that I bought the game from installed the buttons. I don't know where he got them, but I'll ask.

add me to on where those lit trigger buttons came from...thanks for looking into it for us!

I'm all for the thumb button lights very cool.

I spoke with my friend last night. He purchased the buttons on eBay. He's going to try to get me a link to them. They were not marketed specifically for DM. He just grabbed them because they fit.

Okay, here's a link to the buttons ...

ebay.com link: 1pc Angel Eye BLUE ring Led 12mm 12V Metal Switch Momentary Push Button

No modifications are needed to mount them. You just have to run two extra wires up into the handles to power them. My friend tapped into the 12v at the flipper boards near the flipper buttons. You'll need to add a resister to drop the voltage to the LED, but they are supplied with the buttons.

Thx a ton! Just ordered some

Thank you and your friend for the button info!

If you dont want to wait to get these from China, poke around ebay, theres plenty of US sellers to get them from.