(Topic ID: 140805)

Demolition Man - No Flashers

By benman

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

I have a problem with my DM where none of the flashers are not working. I've been doing some research and am hoping that it's a bad interlock switch. I believe the way to test this theory is to look for 16 VAC at pins 3 and 4 on J102 of the driver board. I'm not really sure how to go about testing this with my DMM.

Do I put the positive on my DMM into pin 3 on the cable and the neg to pin 4 with the machine on?

For reference LED5 is not lit. I think this either points to the board not getting power, BR4 or C11 being bad or bad trace somewhere. I have tested the fuse out of the machine and it registered good.

Sorry for the noob question. This is all new to me.

#2 8 years ago

I'd check the 20 volt test point on the power driver board first.

LTG : )™

#3 8 years ago

Don't forget to check the pre-driver transistors for the flashers on the power driver board.

#4 8 years ago

And triple check the flux capacitor. They have been known to go bad after years of abuse.

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

And triple check the flux capacitor. They have been known to go bad after years of abuse

Lol I'll be sure to do that

As far as checking the 20 volts T 7. Do I put my positive lead on the t7 post and the negative on the post just below it?

Edit: Also do I do this with the machine on and the coin door closed?

#6 8 years ago

I've bench tested fuses that show fine, swapped a new one into the machine and it started working again.

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

I've bench tested fuses that show fine, swapped a new one into the machine and it started working again.

I'm going to try this.

I tested on TP7 and TP5 and looks like I only have .6 v. I know that's a problem. Where should I look next aside from the fuse?

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from benman:

Where should I look next aside from the fuse?

The 20 volt bridge rectifier.

LTG : )™

#9 8 years ago

So I think I'll pull the board in the next couple days and check out BR4 as well as continuity between the - on BR4 and the - on C11.

#10 8 years ago

Set meter to AC Volts (~), 200 Volt Range if it's not auto-ranging.
Game on.
Insert red lead into J102 pin 1 OR 2.
Insert black lead into J102 pin 3 OR 4.
Should see approx. 16 VAC
If this voltage is present and TP7 is at .6, you may have a bad BR4 or a break in continuity leading to or from it.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Set meter to AC Volts (~), 200 Volt Range if it's not auto-ranging.
Game on.
Insert red lead into J102 pin 1 OR 2.
Insert black lead into J102 pin 3 OR 4.
Should see approx. 16 VAC
If this voltage is present and TP7 is at .6, you may have a bad BR4 or a break in continuity leading to or from it.

Thanks cody. I'll check this today

Edit: Just to clarify I'm inserting the leads into the connector right?

#12 8 years ago

Yes. In the connector, touching the pin metal.

#13 8 years ago

Quick update I tested on Pin 2 & 3 of the j102 connector and got 17.25 volts AC. I also retested TP 7 against the ground strap and still only got .5 volts DC. I believe then my problem is probably with BR4 or C11. Does this sound right?

#14 8 years ago

Yes. Once you unmount the board you can do continuity and diode tests.

2 weeks later
#15 8 years ago

Replace BR4

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