(Topic ID: 297683)

Demo man divertor and door switch queries

By pinballslave

2 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

2 questions for you good people:

1) The ramp divertor only goes about half way when it activates. The mech is nice and smooth and when I pull the plunger into the coil it's very smooth and free. Is the coil that moves the divertor like a flipper coil with drive and hold coils? If so, maybe the drive coil isn't working... can I swap it with a flipper coil? Or maybe whatever drives this is defective... what to check first?

2) in my game there is a single switch that is closed when the coin door is closed, it has 4 wires on it (connected to the outer 4 connectors), but 6 connectors (middle 2 not connected). The bracket for this switch has places for 2 switches. There are 2 wires with spade connectors not connected to anything, but they are connected together by a jumper wire.

When I open the door, I can't operate the menu buttons and get a message telling me I need to open the coin door. If I remove the jumper wire connecting the two un-connected wires it thinks I've opened the coin door and I can use the menu switches...

The question is: should these un-connected wires be connected to the two un-used middle connectors of the switch that's there, or do they go onto a 2nd switch that's actually missing? I tried connecting them to the middle 2 connectors but it didn't work, but I don't know if that's because the switch is defective, or they shouldn't be there anyway...

Sorry if this sounds more confusing than it is...

Thanks for any help!!!

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

When I open the door, I can't operate the menu buttons and get a message telling me I need to open the coin door. If I remove the jumper wire connecting the two un-connected wires it thinks I've opened the coin door and I can use the menu switches...

Remove the jumper wire.

LTG : )

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

or do they go onto a 2nd switch that's actually missing?

2nd switch.

LTG : )

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Is the coil that moves the divertor like a flipper coil with drive and hold coils?

Does it have 3 lugs ? If so power and hold. 2 lugs - not like a flipper coil.

LTG : )

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

2nd switch.

See picture. Different game. Different wire colors. Same idea. Same function.

LTG : )

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#6 2 years ago

Thanks for your help Lloyd, you da mean!

Quoted from LTG:

Does it have 3 lugs ? If so power and hold. 2 lugs - not like a flipper coil.

3 lugs... is there a way to test each coil using a multimeter?

Quoted from LTG:

Remove the jumper wire.

I did that, and I can work around it that way, but I'd like to fix it properly...

Quoted from LTG:

See picture. Different game. Different wire colors. Same idea. Same function.

Cool. I notice the top switch in this picture has the outer 2 connectors and the inner 2 connectors with wires on them, but my switch has the outer 4 connectors wired up... do you think I need to re-wire it as in your pic? (See note at end of this message, which could be linked to this answer).

Quoted from LTG:

2nd switch.

Sounds like I need to get myself a 2nd switch then...

As another point, the bracket on the door was bent so that it doesn't even touch the switch at all, so like being always open...

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

do you think I need to re-wire it as in your pic?

Yes.

Quoted from pinballslave:

As another point, the bracket on the door was bent so that it doesn't even touch the switch at all,

Bend it back.

Quoted from pinballslave:

3 lugs... is there a way to test each coil using a multimeter?

Should be a test in there. Power and hold.

LTG : )

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

but my switch has the outer 4 connectors wired up... do you think I need to re-wire it as in your pic?

If you want to cut high power to your game when the coin door is open. Right now you have high power all the time. More risk to your switch and lamp matrix, when working on your game.

LTG : )

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bend it back.

I tried that before I posted on here, but as I was doing it it broke off by stripping the threads on the two small screws... no worries, this can be rectified easily...

Re the coil for the divertor, since there is no EOS switch, do you know how the game switches from the power to the hold coil?

Thanks greatly for all your amazing support!!

#10 2 years ago

Here's a photo of the divertor coil by the way, you can just about make out the coil number... After a relatively short playing time (about 5 mins) when I moved the plunger manually to see if there was any mechanical resistance, I noticed that the coil was pretty warm... maybe about 45degc (110F).

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#11 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Re the coil for the divertor, since there is no EOS switch, do you know how the game switches from the power to the hold coil?

It gets one power fire and then holds until a switch from a diverted ball gets hit.

Quoted from pinballslave:

Here's a photo of the divertor coil by the way, you can just about make out the coil number... After a relatively short playing time (about 5 mins) when I moved the plunger manually to see if there was any mechanical resistance, I noticed that the coil was pretty warm... maybe about 45degc (110F).

That coil has been hot. I'd replace it.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-fl-11753-flipper-coil.html get a new sleeve too. https://www.pinballlife.com/2-316-coil-sleeve.html

Check the manual on the parts layout. I wonder if the coil sleeve in there is wrong, it looks upside down in your picture. Usually the flange end is on the bottom. And the smaller end sticks up through the bracket. Might be part of the problem.

LTG : )

#12 2 years ago

Wow, you're still up! It's almost 2am where you are, no?

Quoted from LTG:

It gets one power fire and then holds until a switch from a diverted ball gets hit.

So this (the power fire part) comes from the power driver board I take it, not via some additional board under the playfield...

Quoted from LTG:

Usually the flange end is on the bottom. And the smaller end sticks up through the bracket.

You mean the circled bit?

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#13 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

So this (the power fire part) comes from the power driver board I take it, not via some additional board under the playfield...

Yes.

Quoted from pinballslave:

You mean the circled bit?

Yes. It looks like the flange of the coil sleeve right below the top of the red circle.

LTG : )

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

You mean the circled bit?

Page 2-31 in the manual doesn't show it good.

I've added a couple pictures to try and explain how the coil sleeve should be on your bracket.

LTG : )

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#15 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I've added a couple pictures to try and explain how the coil sleeve should be on your bracket.

Thanks for your effort! I thought that's what you meant... if I locate the transistor that's responsible for sending the pulse to the power coil and then earth the tab of it and the coil fires to make the divertor move fully then I know the coil is good and the tranni is probably the issue... or the driver transistor... if such a thing exists... does that make sense?

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

if I locate the transistor that's responsible for sending the pulse to the power coil and then earth the tab of it and the coil fires to make the divertor move fully then I know the coil is good and the tranni is probably the issue... or the driver transistor... if such a thing exists... does that make sense?

Two transistors. Power and hold.

Have you really gone over the coil lugs ? A cold solder joint. Or dig around the thin wire from the coil windings to the coil lugs, can have a crack or break you can't see. Even an internal break on the hold.

I'd replace the coil before starting on transistors.

LTG : )

#17 2 years ago

If you have a spare flipper coil, or borrow one from one of the game's flippers. As long as it has three lugs, and diodes in the right orientation. It will work. If it does then replace it with the right coil.

LTG : )

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Two transistors. Power and hold.

Yes, that's what I imagined... earth the hold one and I'd get the weak movement I see now, earth the power one and if the coil is good, I'd see the strong movement...

Quoted from LTG:

Have you really gone over the coil lugs ? A cold solder joint. Or dig around the thin wire from the coil windings to the coil lugs, can have a crack or break you can't see. Even an internal break on the hold.

I'd replace the coil before starting on transistors.

Actually not started attacking this yet, but will soon... thanks again for your time and input!! I feel much better armed now!!

#19 2 years ago
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#20 2 years ago

Fixed the door switches, luckily found a spare small (2 tab) switch in a box of spares, 1st box I looked in, right at the top!! That's all working perfectly now!!

On the coil, tried in solenoid test, I hear a clicking sound when the game tries to fire the power coil, but zero movement of the divertor... have now taken the coil out... am planning to do your suggestion of swapping with a flipper coil because I know they work... there are 2 different flipper coils in this game, the lower flippers and the upper flipper... they both have different numbers from the divertor coil... Will either one do the job? Divertor: yellow, upper flipper: red, lower flippers: blue. Thanks!!

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#21 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

.. Will either one do the job?

For a test - yes. I'd get the correct one back in there when you can.

LTG : )

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

For a test - yes. I'd get the correct one back in there when you can.

Thanks again for your superb help!! I think I already know the answer to the next question, but the orientation of the lugs with respect to the power and hold coils will be the same for all 3 coils photographed I take it...?

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

the orientation of the lugs with respect to the power and hold coils will be the same for all 3 coils photographed I take it...?

Yes.

Unless you like blowing stuff up.

LTG : )

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

the orientation of the lugs with respect to the power and hold coils will be the same for all 3 coils photographed I take it...?

Only thing I'd add. Is on a new coil. Be sure the diodes are facing the right direction.

LTG : )

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