(Topic ID: 59699)

Decal edges... what do you do with them?


By DarkWizard

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by DarkWizard
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

I have a decal that I applied to my Earthshaker and I had to trim the edges. What do you do with these decal edges now to make a smooth transition to the side of the cabinet?

Before :

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After

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#2 6 years ago

I normally prime and paint to the cabinet edge then cut the decal just shy of the edge. This reveals a nice finished line.

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

I have a decal that I applied to my Earthshaker and I had to trim the edges. What do you do with these decal edges now to make a smooth transition to the side of the cabinet?
Before :

After

No offense, but did you trim that with a chainsaw?

#4 6 years ago

Sand and paint the cab corners to match the decal color. One the decal is in place use a steel straight edge and cut the decal straight but SLIGHTLY back from the cab edge.

Nasty_machine_front.jpg Front_new_decals.jpg No_more_damage_front.jpg

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

Sand and paint the cab corners to match the decal color. One the decal is in place use a steel straight edge and cut the decal straight but SLIGHTLY back from the cab edge.

Hey Cal you do nice work for an old guy. Did I mention Cal is also blind, well at least you would think it the way he plays pinball!

#6 6 years ago

Why not fill those 2 hasp holes before applying a decal?

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Hey Cal you do nice work for an old guy. Did I mention Cal is also blind, well at least you would think it the way he plays pinball!

These are the special braille edition of screen printed WW decals. You can feel the witness lines around the edges. It take a special touch / feel to pick it up. Sticky side down so its a 50/50 shot.

(Kidding and go decal something cheese dick)

#8 6 years ago

I prefer using the edge of the cabinet as my straight edge. I use a utility knife and hold it at a 45 degree angle to the surface as you cut. This extends the decal all the way to the edge and makes it hard to tell its even a decal. When done properly, you can run your finger perpendicular to an edge and you won't feel the decal.

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#9 6 years ago

I've used Bryan Kelly's technique but you will shoot yourself in the foot really quick if your edges aren't absolutely perfect, your edges of the decals will come out jagged. Lately I have been using a technique of uses black/ blue/ purple etc lacquer from automotive store on the edges to get them perfectly smooth and cornered prior to decals; then use straight edge and exacto to cut the edges 1/8th of inch away from the edge, gives it a nice clean edge.

#10 6 years ago

I've used Bryan Kelly's technique but you will shoot yourself in the foot really quick if your edges aren't absolutely perfect, your edges of the decals will come out jagged. Lately I have been using a technique of uses black/ blue/ purple etc lacquer from automotive store on the edges to get them perfectly smooth and cornered prior to decals; then use straight edge and exacto to cut the edges 1/8th of inch away from the edge, gives it a nice clean edge.

That's why the cabinet prep is so important, especially the edges. Hell, the cab prep is 95% of a decal job. The decal install is the other 5.

Here are a couple more pics I dug up.

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#11 6 years ago

Thanks for the thread, just after I decaled 2 of my machines! I found the trimming to be the hardest part, but this advice all helps. I think I'll go back and do some more trimming short of the edges as suggested, and I looked like the hacksaw method as well.

Another thing, the little rainbow bits should line up I assume? I did the sides first, which have more room to play re placement. Should have done the front first, as it has to be precise.

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#12 6 years ago

AH HA, that's what those colored blocks are for. Saw them on my NGG behind the legs and couldn't figure what they were. Thanks

#13 6 years ago

The little circles are registration marks and the colours would be the measure the density of each process colour. They are just for the printing process, not meant to line up the sides and front.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Here are a couple more pics I dug up.

Now your just showing off

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from jimbeam42:

The little circles are registration marks and the colours would be the measure the density of each process colour. They are just for the printing process, not meant to line up the sides and front.

See, I knew that, didn't need to line them up afterall. Feel much better................

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from BoJo:

Now your just showing off

It really is simple, if you use the right tools. The chainsaw is for cutting down trees.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I prefer using the edge of the cabinet as my straight edge. I use a utility knife and hold it at a 45 degree angle to the surface as you cut. This extends the decal all the way to the edge and makes it hard to tell its even a decal. When done properly, you can run your finger perpendicular to an edge and you won't feel the decal.

Bryan , how do you make sure the blade doesn't slightly cut into the wood edge and cut in a gouge ?

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from freezie:

Bryan , how do you make sure the blade doesn't slightly cut into the wood edge and cut in a gouge ?

After a bit of practice, you get the feel for the correct angle so that doesn't happen.

Again, make sure the edges are filled and sanded smooth.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

No offense, but did you trim that with a chainsaw?

None taken, I know it looks like crap at the moment. Which is why I am seeking advice. Its my first attempt so I didn't really expect miracles. The good news is it wasn't an official decal, so I didn't have to waste $250 on a set of decals to find out that I don't know what I am doing.

As for what i used, it was a hobby knife... and I rushed it. Also, I know the bottom looks especially bad, this is because when I put the wood filler in I was able to sand the front, but I couldn't get my sander underneath the cabinet yet because its too low to the floor. I was going to wait until I had the legs back on. If you couldn't tell by the pics, I don't really have alot of room to maneuver, just trying to make due with what room I have.

I'm not a hardcore restorer, nor do I claim to be. I am just trying to get a passable result. As I am learning now, I should have just bought a machine in decent shape.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from DarkWizard:

I'm not a hardcore restorer, nor do I claim to be. I am just trying to get a passable result. As I am learning now, I should have just bought a machine in decent shape.

Never - restoring is like bonding with your child when you breast feed ( I assume, not having breast fed myself). You form an attachment with a restored machine that you don't get with one you bought in perfect shape.

#21 6 years ago

I do lot of similar type work at my job. Make sure you use a sharp blade or you will hose yourself. Yeah, blades are sharp and you can cut yourself real easy like. But for trim work, the blade is usually duller than you think.

#22 6 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Never - restoring is like bonding with your child when you breast feed ( I assume, not having breast fed myself). You form an attachment with a restored machine that you don't get with one you bought in perfect shape.

Well yes, I do feel that bond growing hehe. I just wish the restoring was more second nature to me.

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