Hey all, don't have a DP but was sent here by another poster.

Just experienced my GNR with and without the Pinwoofer GT with an External Klipsch 12" sub as well as the Cab sub upgrade and the Tweeter upgrade

Thought my experience would give you some insight.

NIGHT and DAY difference.

I thought I could get by with a tap off the cab to an external sub and call it a day. Nope. The tweeter upgrade and amp make the audio "Sparkle" is the best way I can describe it! All the while providing amazing bass, no hum, no rattle..just perfect blend. I'm hearing spatial orientation and callouts and sound effects that did not exist with the factory setup!

The ability to adjust the backbox volume and equalize things is HUGE.

A++++

Sorry this turned into a commercial but this is a must have mod IMHO where audio is important

Time to make the Chimichanga's ?

So I know I'm asking a biased crowd, but currently contemplating a DP Prem NIB purchase. I have 3 pins right now, (SW, JP Premium & GnR LE) so DP would fit in nicely in the mix as far as shots and uniqueness. I have played it on route with older code and found it fun but it was in a noisy environment and typical routed game jank and broken parts which detracted from the experience.

Knowing what you all know now with the newer code, would you buy a DP again right now or wait for the next Keith Elwin/Stern new hotness (ie Godzilla)

I try to only buy pins that I've played and will stay bolted to the floor (for now)

Thank you, great input

Those were my thoughts as well...Thank you

Okay, just broke the news to the wife, she hates the hobby (actually the $$$ for pins these days), but we always discuss prior so I'm not in the doghouse.

Deadpool Premium Deposit = Done!!!

I heard that. Trying not to look at them as investments, but nice to know they retain some value if desperate times dictate otherwise. Thanks again for the recommendation.

I love this handle!!!! Following your work and sent you a PM.

Hope you can produce these to purchase!

Number 3 most definitely, and the number 3 pattern and metal...

This final product looks amazing!

PURCHASING !!!!!

Pinball abuse

I second that...so want to get my Deadpool to get this mod installed!!

Lucxor is good people!!!

I played George Gomez's personal Deadpool on the Expo floor yesterday and then turn around just in time to see him pass by and shake his hand for such a great game that I'm taking delivery on next year... Talk about surreal

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I thought it looked amazing...The blues really popped! I plan on powdercoating the machine with Illusion red flake and I think the contrast will really set it off...but even leaving it stock would be fine as it looks great as is...You forget how amazing these machines look in person compared to photos sometimes

I was a little shocked too, but that makes me love my Premium even more

I'm waiting on my DP Premium too..going to also go with the Comet spots, although I think maybe only one spot per sling, I'll have to play wth that a little, see what I like.

I can see how the pinstadiums may be good for streaming, but they kill the abiance and GI lighting for me in a home setting, I prefer the dark contrasts in pinball and don't like playing with the lights on or too bright a playfield, leaves a little mystery and doesn't blow out the contrast- to each his own...

I'm also going to add the trough light and the Lil DP drop bank/under lighting as well

Thanks for sharing that...I've seen a few posts about the Red GI vs the sunlight 2 SMD bulbs, going to have to see in my environment how it looks...your's looks great

I'm doing the full CLiP protection protectors for mine... Deviating from the norm of my usual sling and lane

https://mezelmods.com/products/clip-protector-set-deadpool-pinball?_pos=14&_sid=6a1cdde23&_ss=r&variant=39294863081569

It's 20 separate pieces for the CLiP set

I'm waiting also

Got the Comet frosted sunlight kit and also the spotlight addon kits from comet as well...There are some good before and after pics in this thread and I think the sunlight allows more of the true colors to shine through on the playfield without being oversaturated red

I ordered mine from JJ back in July as well...waiting is the hardest part...

When was your order made...just trying to guess/guage without bugging JJ over trivial stuff out of his control

Thank you

Bummer, just heard from Distro today...DP Premium bumped to Late summer '22 July/August + $1000 price hike, no grandfather on old deposit price most likely...

Well crap...still getting it...just sucks

I think my Distro meant the hike from 7600 to 8600 come next year even though deposit was in with my Distro this July

Just got my final payment notification too on my premium!!! Pleasant surprise as I wasn't expecting until late summer.

Congrats, mine is coming this Thursday, can't wait

It has arrived, unfortunately had to leave town on business. Got a ton of mods and accessories to install when I get back, so it'll be a while before that first ball flip

New Translucent Titans throughout
Mezel CLiP protectors set, red 3mm kit
Cointaker Side mirror blades
Stern Shaker
Invisiglass
Official Topper and Shooter Rod
Lucxor Katana replacement
Hooked on Pinball Pop ninja star replacement
Translucent lil Deadpool drops and lighting
Cliffy's for Katana ramp and shooter lane
External Klipsch Sub out
Comet Fosted Sunlight Light Kit and spot light installs
Pingraffix Flipper Toppers
Pinmonk Quietfan

Eventually get powder coat, red with sparkle flake
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Normally I do as well, I just had such a long wait for this title, I started accumulating mods way in advance, now my OCD won't let me play until it's done

Yeah, I'll probably do that for the possible game affecting ones like the clip accessories

I hear you, makes sense in troubleshooting versus changing at much then trying to isolate issues if any

Awesome, thanks for the tip, love Pinmonks stuff

I guess I got a new build but older playfield before they changed the artwork under certain rails

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Premium

I always take my games apart so the wife and I could get it up the curved stairs safely in 3 pieces. Deadpool came apart surprisingly easy after the spaghetti nest on TWD.

Taking over my son's room slowly for the main pinball room to eventually house the pins scattered about

Now onto the side mirrors..This is the way to do mods floor level and no killing your back! Wish it was always like this
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I just bit the bullet and did a massive upgrade, took awhile as it involved taking apart pretty much everything.

New Comet Frosted Sunlight Throughout
All new Titan Translucent rubbers
CLiP protection plastics throughout.

I like the Comet Lighting as the red just saturated the playfield. The Frosted sunlight makes the playfied colors come alive
I also built 2 spotlights on the top of the slings and they brighten up the center nicely. Not too much , just right.

I'm also going to add a trough light and translucent drops and ligthing under Lil' Deadpool Drops

Not a fan of the Red CLiP plastics on the sling artwork, love the fluorescent look everywhere else, but they just make the sling art completely red.

I'm going with some thicker clears or other colrs in those areas. Also, I left the sling lights a cooler white as it doesn't change the playfield GI too much but makes the sling art pop a little more

Will do, here you go...

I did this for a couple bulbs, however the plastics and rubber changeout required the most dismantling, so I figured I'd kill 3 birds with 1 stone

Here's also a flyover vid

The CLiP 3mm plastics are not blown out PURPLE/MAGENTA like in the video and pics, hard to carpture the true color on camera...also the lights are more blown out in pics and vids than in real life

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Hooked on pinball as the others have noted

Thank you much

Just wanted to highlight Lucxor amazing work on the Katana mod.

Amazing quality and looks, really sets the Katana handle off.

Super easy to purchase from and a true professional

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Anyone know of and brightness controls for Stern's Topper, looked through the settings but couldn't find anything, not sure if it's tied to another setting or just not controllable.

Waiting on my Invisiglass to come in and getting some glare / washout from the topper on the playfield with the regular Stern glass

Thanks

Good suggestion, tried that just now but no luck

I LOVE the mirror blades on this game

To avoid disassembly, you could put a fiber washer under the areas, cut out a small notch, loosen the nut below just to get clearance and slide the fiber washer under and tighten guide nut. I've done this on my JP rails, they stay put, and the pressure from the rails prevents the fiber from turning. I'll the notch is unseen from the playfield player perspective

I got to say I'm very impressed with Stern on this one shoots amazing out of the box at 7° as recommended by George Gomez on his Stern factory intro video I asked him in person too at the Expo and he said 7°.

Every shot on this thing is like butter ... This is by far my favorite orbit shot on any machine shooting that left dazzler spinner just rips so amazing... So glad I got the premium which keeps the flow going with the up down ramp

And the lock shot across the playfield into the katana is just amazingly accurate surprises me every time how smooth and fast that shot is love love love this game

Also my playfield is really the best new in box I've ever gotten from Stern... the wood is really hard I don't see any dimples at all in the clear after multiple plays ...they also did a super buffing polish job from the factory... Like glass

So happy with this title

I mean seriously look at this playfield... Frigging beautiful...

SNNNKKT !!!! New owner praise ahead

Man, finally zoned in on this shot, went from impossible to hit for me to 7 hits in one game. I hit in multiple ways too...half by just glancing the pop bumper skirt before letting the bumper get one quick fire and aid it into the target and up the ramp and the other 4 were direct target/ramp shots...such a weird satisfying shot. Almost has that feeling of riding a bike, can't unsee the shot lane now that I found it even though it seemed not to exist initially

This^^^ Happened on my NIB SW Prem years ago, was my first pin and drove me nuts for months...turned out to be a super small piece of stray wire in one of the GI bulb sockets.

So question on the 2nd O (Right inlane) spelling B O O M

Is there ever a time in the code when it's set to NOT register a rollover and light the O ?

I swear there are times where I shoot a left orbit to the up down ramp (Premium version here), the ball smoothly rolls down the Katana, and over the rollover but doesn't register an O, then works the rest of the time in the game... performed switch test and works perfectly, no loose wires.

Could this be a code/bug thing or should I look deeper at the switch?

Thanks

Okay will do, thanks

That was it!!!

One of the switch leads was bent and the other two were very close, straightened them out and tightened the switch... Working perfectly now! Appreciate the help

Found a pretty good use of the Deadpool hammock plastic on my premium. It blocks too much disco light so I tried it on the topper... Just going to hook up some Comet SMD to a GI or flasher to give it a lighting effect but I think it looks pretty awesome from the player perspective.

The mounts swivel and conform perfectly to the topper curve and two small pieces of command wall double sided hold it firmly in place
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Edit: I fixed this but left my original question here followed by the answer I arrived at in case anyone wants to reference..

**Quick alignment question... I changed the coil stops already and tightened everything but my left flipper seems just a tad lower than the right when in the up position.

Down, they are dead nuts on the alignment holes...

The game shoots amazing

Just curious, was this intentional geometry with the different flipper coils, or is this just something normal not to be concerned about.

My OCD is curious

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Disregard I fixed it by adjusting the left and right hand Pawl in the up position and made both bats even and then slightly tweaking (aligned with needle nose just a millimeter or two ) the left and right back stop for the flipper return now they're all perfect I'm just going to leave this here in case anybody in encounters the same thing... real quick fix

Don't think that is correct, Stern site shows them even at rest, and I asked at Expo and they said to center the bats on the alignment holes...my issue was when they were in the up position being uneven

All good now and can hit the Snikt shot on the plunge or from cradle and right flipper to the ramp and orbits...

Didn't think it was possible but I think it's smoother now
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Thanks, appreciate the feedback

Thanks, I changed coil stops.. There was slight uneven wear on the right one with the plunger contact, but they were still uneven after replacing, assemblies looked good and no binding or angle in the plungers (how would you straighten the assemblies in your explanation, the coil stops and coil bracket can only tighten to their base and the base is fixed... Would this be an assembly spec issue or was it installed slightly off in the playfield, if the latter, nothing I can do except for my fix I would think?)... After repositioning the Pawl travel point the only thing left to adjust was the resting travel position... So it may be that the C&C was slightly off, an assembly was put in slightly off, but either way, just a fraction, and I mean a fraction of a bend to the backstop (with the rubber grommet out) so that the pressure of the tool was directly centered, changed the resting positions to even.. so I'm even top and bottom now.. I may be slightly off 90 degrees on the backstop bracket, but it does very well...

I have to remind myself these are handmade on wood, it's amazing the tolerances that they can dial in with those be limitations

When it's time for a rebuild, I am may just get 2 entirely new full kit assemblies

Thanks for any further feedback

This is the first time I've encountered this issue on any of my pins (5) right now

Oh gotcha, I see, my mind was thinking rotational alignment of the assembly, not a physical arch in the assembly, makes sense, thanks for the explanation.

Wow that's crazy, glad Stern is taking care of him

That makes total sense now thinking about the assemblies and their travel and position, really appreciate it

As pointed out above, my assembly is probably out of spec and come time for a rebuild, will most likely do a complete assembly swap out, but everything works smoothly now and shoots like butter, I don't have pics unfortunately, but here's what I did

1. Loosened the right flipper bat bolt just loose enough to move it but with some tension still left

2. While holding the left flipper up to its up position with one hand, moved the right flipper to match the left upward position with the same hand, then tightened the right bat bolt using my Allen wrench, I have the long T=handle kind so it make the job and torque required easy

3. Made sure i had a slight amount of vertical play in the position and then when satisfied, tighted the right flipper down

4. Now with the right fixed upward, it was slightly off on the bottom rest position. I removed the backstop rubber, so as to bend the bracket slightly in the middle and not unevenly and did't want to ruin the grommet .. then used a pair of needle nose to bend just slightly the bracket holding the grommet (making the distance the pawl rests on slightly less and closer to the assembly) - just a little goes a long way, took only a slight tweak and the flipper was now resting dead center

It's strange, my Star Wars and JP had them, weird they wouldn't change the part supply list on a known bracket issue.

I put the anti sway bar from Pinball Life in mine and it works perfectly...Snikt shots a plenty !!

You really have to tighten those two screws holding the leaf spring to the mechanism tight to do that without bending things and to keep position I used a pair of pliers to hold the leaf spring square while using a long torque driver to get those screw as tight as I could...

...

I know it's been said here that the target should sit away from the rail but I've actually found that with just the corner just overlapping the rails slightly but still squared up provides more of a positive Target impact point for the ball.. otherwise it's a little too spongy.. the ball won't make it up the ramp as easily I'm out on a trip if I get home I'll take a picture of mine it's pretty close to yours but my target is square so I would just recommend tightening up that Target again living with a little overlap and then just getting used to that shot....

Regardless of how Gomez said it's supposed to be free floating away from the rail every Deadpool I've ever seen in the wild or in a home environment has a slight overlap on that railing it was even on his own personal machine on the Expo floor...

Also the post above talking about the shim works as well if you put a washer on the leaning edge to bring the target back to square and just live with the fact that the mechanism itself is slightly cantered and shimmed but squared up it's basically reached its lean limit and will sit square with a shim in place...

I did this before I had the anti-sway bracket in and it worked perfectly.

My target came from the factory with a slight overlay on the rail and I felt it was a solid shot and felt really good out of the box but then I got to reading on here how it should be and when I centered it without any railing position it felt spongy it was very difficult to make

Long story short I went back to what works versus what is supposed to work now over time that target may get beat up on that edge, but if that's the worst that happens oh well I'll just get a new one if needed.. but so far it doesn't appear to be wearing or being cut by the rail at all

Just for clarification, with the playfield up, you are putting the washer under the top screw of the target to the playfield bracket, so that with the playfield down, it’s on the side of the target closest to the player, which does lower the end slightly but it makes the target sit even just above the playfield with proper clearance

As promised here are my photos, sorry about the glare, Invisiglass hasn't shipped yet...

This is with the anti sway installed and no shim

A well placed shot feeds the ramp perfectly... I'm about 6.9 to 7.0 degrees on playfield angle

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So two things easiest first when you say you're at 6.8 degrees where are you taking that measurement from and how... Should be with the torpedo level directly on the play field near the flippers ...you probably know that but just checking..

Secondly if it's a clean shot off the right flipper does it appear to slow down at all under the chimney truck if so that gate might be causing an issue where it's not getting sensed properly... I'd have to look at it to see if there's some kind of a rollover trigger (I'm away from my machine on business) but I would check any switches in a vicinity and see how they're tied to the truck, and also go into the system menu.

You could also try taking the glass off and testing it by hand... The electronic gate under the chimi truck may be interfering just enough to slow down the momentum of the ball

I've only seen it happen maybe a handful of times out of hundreds of games but it's usually when I get a unclean shot and it rattles around

Yes, lol, it's seriously one of the most fun pins I have...I mean SW for speed, JP for technical shooting, Godzilla for the everything, Guns for the spectacle, Walking Dead for the frustration, and DP for the pure fun...

I mean the orbit alone on the disco loops is the best orbit in pinball, plus the snikt shot and combining it all for crazy stacking, so many different strategies to attack it from...A + for me

Agreed, the MXV shot is so awesome, it's like a perfect golf or baseball swing, you just know it feels good when you make it.. and getting in the rhythm of on the fly shots, especially on the orbits or mini orbits feel so darn good on this game... I make the Katana more smoothly if I'm not aiming specifically for it and just try to get the timing down...Unlike games like star wars where the speed just overwhelms the ball eventually, DP seems to have the ball better pacing

Simple add on..

Plastic magnetic off Amazon

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Maybe gaudy overkill but that's the theme of the pin
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Would love to see what you can do. I like the angled look you have from front viewing

I looked on Amazon for a similar style you have in the drawing, but they only had the ones I bought.

The good thing is they can be moved wherever you want as the magnets are strong and the chromed plastic is light but looks real

Looks great..

I also really love the black premium armor. Now that I have it in person, it just looks right to me. Initially though I would be powder coating this one in red but love how the black sets off the cabinet artwork.

Those look fantastic. The Offset angle is what really sets them off...I tried doing that with the magnet one's originally but only get the straight vertical view...seeing the crosssection is definitely the way to go. Plus they match the Hooked on Pinball Pop star bumper caps.

Chrome will look amazing..

I bet a candy chromed red or blue would look pretty cool as well

So I upgraded my premium speakers to Kenwood KFC-1366S 4 ohm speakers... Sounded awesome

Then I thought, oops, forgot to change the ohms to 4 ohms...

Well, now it sounds like mud... Much reduced volume, voices and call outs muted... Over all crap....

Switched back to 8 and presto... Instant upgraded quality...

So what is the consensus on damaging the amp if I leave them at 8 ohms? What do the LEs come set to by default and is the wiring somehow different in the premiums?

These are the same speakers the LEs use from what I read, just can't believe how bad they sound at 4 ohms...

Any suggestions

Thanks all

Yeah I’m definitely gonna have to take a look at it I was throwing the system together with the speaker Light kit..and only had a chance to try it briefly…Definitely gonna have to mess with the EQ…Unfortunately I’m out of town on business now for a couple days so it’s gonna bug me until I can get back and monkey with it…I guess technically running 8 ohms Through the four ohm speakers is potentially damaging if the volume gets cranked too hard I seem to remember people getting their LES with a default setting of 8 ohms even though they had four ohm speakers…I wonder if there’s a different EQ profile that comes standard in the LE software version

OK I read through that entire thread and rather than trying to make the best out of a spike equalizer and lack of onboard amplifier power to drive 4 ohm speakers properly…I decided to go with the new PinWoofer DIY Solution since it uses the factory wiring…I’m not An audiophile but I do want some good quality and didn’t wanna risk trying various amplifiers and clean power solutions only to wind up with Buzzing and distortion……I already have a line out using An external sub and planning on running the pinnovator line out in tandem with the PinWoofer to control the cab and back box speakers being driven off the PinWoofer amp. I just don’t want to risk running at 8 ohms on a 4 ohm speaker and damage something on the spike board.

I probably should have just got the entire PinWoofer solution to begin with but I wanted the Kenwood “look”…so ..I have the full setup on my GnR and it sounds amazing.

Outstanding work Craig!

Hey one suggesting, since you have a cover over the up down ramp on the prem/le, that is a point where too much velocity causes the ball to skip over the Katana from time to time... Any thoughts about incorporating a small deflector under it to allow for smooth flow .. For now, I have a metal post in place and it eliminates the ball escaping the Katana completely, but it does slow down momentum just a hair when the call really gets going, but it allows me to keep doing the orbits.... So there's a rub, either live with the faster ball, escaping the Katana on the 3rd or 4th orbit, or slow it down/deflect slightly...

Not sure if this is something you'd want to tackle or not, just throwing it out there

With that said, love your creativity and mod...I thought I was done modding my DP Premium...I thought wrong.. Order being placed soon

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Awesome, thanks Craig,

I've only seen it when I get in a groove and keep getting that left orbit shot and it gets faster and faster and faster usually when I'm going for disco loops... Eventually the speed hits that rubber stopper and it propels it out of the diverter just with enough force to skip over the katana guide lanes and it messes up the flow

Used a Comet Sunlight White 10 SMD Frosted Matrix strip connected to the GI

These translucents were tricky, they had a hair too much of a shelf which would cause them to remain up when struck hard sometimes, had to grind the rest stop ever so slightly but they work perfectly now.

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The grinding wasn't for the light, it was for the Translucent drops that sit on the shelf (I have since changed the install method and changed springs, see below)...I got the food from the Ministry of Pinball and the little nub on the back sticks out too much when on the ledge, causing them not to drop when struck hard by the ball, ground them down maybe a millimeter and they work perfectly now

***Update*** I changed the drop springs to Bally/Williams 10-364 springs and they work perfectly as is with no grinding... Should have done this in the first place

I like the Sunlight White vs the red and I have the Comet kit for a single pair of spots shining into the middle...I changed out all my bulbs to the Sunlight White Deadpool Comet kit versus the red which IMHO washes all the colors out of the playfield

This shows the lighting for the comet kit with white sunrise translucent drops in for lil Deadpool

It's hard to really capture the colors in a pic though

It's not this overblown or bright

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Just get the translucents separately and then the comet smd strip, simple DIY...I would also upgrade the springs to the older bally version as the translucent plastic as a tendency to remain standing with hard impacts
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/drop-target-stern-p-48.html?osCsid=390clid0ha5sr73c52tacasvh0

Unfortunately that placement is directly blocking the spot from Dazzler on the Disco Ball

Just get the translucents separately and then the comet smd strip, simple DIY... The ministry of pinball has clear targets

I replaced my speakers with Kenwood 5 1/2 ( LE versions) ..I already had an external sub hooked up. Right away, I noticed an improvement in clarity, sound and music. I then forgot, whoops, I didn't set my ohms in the settings, so I switched to 4 ohms, which the speakers are rated for and it sounded like crap, not just a lower gain volume, but a worse presence and sound stage. So I started doing all the research if I would blow my Stern amp by running at 8 ohm with 4 ohm speakers... Seems that the DSP and the way the setting is on the Stern board isn't necessarily setting an ohms output to match the speakers. In the meantime, I installed a DIY pinwoofer amp in the backbox which also made a difference and the ability to dial in the sound separation. Switched back to the 8ohm setting...

My friends Black Knight LE shipped from the factory with the kenwoods and 8 ohm setting even though the speaker is 4..

To contrast, I put only the upgraded Kenwoods in my Star Wars with the external sub and yes, there is marked improvement.

Now, this is not going to be audiophile sounds upgrade... It is pinball after all and the output is only as good as the source material.

I originally did the upgrade for the 5 1/2 inch Speaker light upgrade on a premium to give it that LE look, the sound upgrade was a bonus.

When you start getting into the minutia of sound you're going to get all kinds of opinions from audiophiles about dialing in and perfection but if you just want a look to match the LE versions without breaking the bank and don't want to spend on external amps, simply upgrading the back box speakers with an external sub will do the trick... and to my ears it sounds incredible. The DIY pinwoofer amp is a great bonus for the speaker amp setup as you can add this after you have it set up if you really want more control for the soundstage

When my Godzilla comes in I've got the flaming speaker light kit upgrade so I didn't opt for the bigger 5 and 1/2 in and I'll just put the 4-in kickers on since they're going to be hidden behind the speaker wall... I may add the DIY pinwoofer amp to that config
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PinWoofer , thanks for the comparison. Have many of your products and they and the support are outstanding as always!

Drop targets have had this issue for a while, what makes the Deadpool ones worse is that the targets are close to getting direct and hard shots.. You can play with the shelf with shims and filing the nubs on the target backs all day and drive yourself crazy as I've done. Shave too much and the targets won't stay up, shim too much and they become bricks and don't drop

You can also reduce the flipper power a little but I can still brick them at 235 power.. And then the game doesn't play as snappy

I'm scraping the shim/file method for new springs

I'm trying the stronger springs that Pinball Life sells for the Ghostbusters Scolari Brothers targets...

My theory is, the stronger springs will help pull the target quicker when struck hard. I think what's happening is the rebound from a hard shot is causing the targets to come back to the shelf before the factory springs have a chance to pull the target down

I'll see if these work. I'm using them on translucent drops similar in material to the factory ones

As far as your SDTM drains... Are you measuring side to side level at the flippers, midpoint, and backfield.. I know my floor is uneven, even in a new construction home and it's amazing what 2 get can do to side to side leveling.

I’ve had great success with the Pin Monk fans on my Deadpool premium…Prior to install I was getting some heat issues on the left flipper mostly…where I would get consistently missed Snikt shots, or the katana became increasingly Tougher to nail…. after installing the fans 100% success …no fading at all …consistent shots… I’ve got them on GNR Deadpool premium and soon to be my Godzilla premium most likely gonna put them on Jurassic Park…I like to play long sessions by myself and the repeated games definitely have fade over time without the fans

*2 Second hack for stopping ball from overshooting Katana ramp from up/down return diverter on Premium/LE

You’ve probably been there doing the disco loops and getting into a nice groove and rhythm and the ball keeps going faster and faster and before you know it you’ve got so much momentum you’re sliding off the katana ramp and there goes your streak…

So you’ve searched for fixes and mods, put in posts and deflector mods…

Here’s a super quick fix that is 99.999% guaranteed to work …simply flip the rubber stop button and reverse plug the hole so that the smaller button that holds the flatter portion is now facing the ball approach on the diverter Ramp…So you should be seeing the flat portion facing the player and the smaller nub of the button Facing inside the ramp

What it essentially does is provide a nice little rebound without the flat bounce (ala Snikt effect) deflection off and over the katana ramp without slowing the ball down.

My game is set at about 6.9 to 7° and this has worked like a champ. Hope it works and helps you out as well

Mine has the wall as well but it's a little too low from where the ball will exit with enough speed

Rats

I used an exacto razor and carefully slid under the old ones, then applied alcohol swab to new targets and a little bit of glue stick glue, press on and let dry.. was good after about 30 minutes

Correct, resets are from opacity bleed through. I use acrylic black paint,. 2 coats on each side of the tab. Works perfect

The resistance to drop and bricking rebounds on hard shots are due to either a misaligned target shelf or weak springs. Sometimes, the ball hits with such force, the target rebounds to the shelf before the spring can pull it... It's a delicate balance.

I would really love to see an engineering redesign of drop targets across the board...I love them, but less games are coming out utilizing them at all

I run a ring of hot glue around the bulb, then press it into the reflector cone and hold about 10 seconds...does no damage...can be removed later with a little force, looks clean, and keeps a solid contact connection. I think the OPMAX bulbs work best for DP and I only use one spot per sling. The pics below are from the SunLight Comets replacing the entire factory GI red bulbs andusing 2 OPMAX spots...no Pin stadiums and you can see the entire playfield very well
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