Deadpool (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2018
Deadpool (Premium)
Stern, 2018
Deadpool (Pro)
Stern, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider duderegular.
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Joined the club this weekend with a Deadpool Pro. My high score while playing on location was something low around 450 million. Tonight I played a game with my one year old jamming on the boom button and hit 1.8 billion. 1.6 billion of that was on ball 1. It seemed like I stayed in multiball lil deadpool, disco, ninja, mechsuit.... Wow. Really going to enjoy learning this one.
Quoted from edward472:Let me know when you get tired of it.
Haha, right on. Hopefully it lasts a little bit. I have turned over most of my lineup the past few months.
Quoted from cloggedDrain:I don't follow what you mean by "with the left flipper held in". Can you help me understand?
Hold the left flipper button when plunging and it will not stop in the pops but rather go all the way around the orbit.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Didn't the game come with a Hellhouse protector from the factory?
I'm the second owner of my LE, so not sure.
Yes they all did. Many folks prefer a cliffy version depending on the application.
Quoted from mostater:I have the knocker sound set to normal, but have yet to hear it. Shouldn't there be a knock when an extra ball is awarded or for a replay award?
It's kind of a chirpy type sound. Replay and match are when you should hear it. I don't think it goes on extra ball.
Quoted from sethi_i:A seriously weird bug occurred tonight.
Li'l DP MP was ready (green light). Mechsuit was also ready (strobing lights at scoop).
I didn't want to lose the open drops of Li'l DP by starting Mechsuit, so I locked a ball into Li'l DP. The machine plunged a new ball.
I had a battle ready before Mechsuit qualified, so I shot the scoop thinking Mechsuit would be deactivated with a ball in Li'l DP (even though the lights were still strobing at the scoop).
Instead of starting a battle, Mechsuit started. The Li'l DP drops didn't open to release the ball. Hitting them while in Mechsuit pushed the captured ball back and the drop would be back up before the ball rebounded down.
Played Mechsuit until I lost the last available ball. The end of ball sequence ran, but no new ball was ejected into the trough. Li'l DP released the captured ball and that started the next ball.
All drops stayed down at Li'l DP, and the light still shown green for available MB. I locked a ball, and the machine plunged another ball. I shot the scoop to start a battle before going into MB. The battle started.
I hit the drops, and the same thing happened as before. The drop never stayed down, and Li'l DP MB didn't actually start. I played out the ball, and upon losing it, the end of ball sequence played. No ball ejected to the trough, and Li'l DP released to use the trapped ball as the new one.
When the game was over, I started another one, and the game behaved normally. I know it's not feasible to predict every possible situation and how the software will react. But this was a strange one. Having Mech and Li'l DP available at the same time (and taking LDP), threw it for a loop.
I recommend sending this in
It sounds like they have one more update coming for this game. They may already know about this, but sending it in is not a bad thing.
Quoted from gumnut01:Funny how this versus debate comes up on every page.
The answer is simple. If the most enjoyable shot after the katana ramp was removed from the pin and you’re still happy with that then get the pro. I mean how important are super satisfying continuous loop shots and an extra mode?
I get your point but it's not like you can't rip the spinner on a pro. It may not be such a clean repeatable deal but still feels great to rip. And honestly I think the center spinner/snikt are my next fav shots. It's a great game on all trim levels for sure. I just got a pro and played a good amount of LE previously.
Quoted from MrCleanHead:Sterns site states that the latest Deadpool code is 1.02, my game is 1.03....?
They started adding the door interlock switches back in. This code reflects the difference to account for that. It is the only difference that I am aware of. Other games had something similar.
Quoted from Junglist:Just joined the club with LE #393 ! Few questions:
Is there a shortcut to restart the game if someone presses start too many times? For example on GB I can hold left flipper and start and it will reset.
Is there an easy way to install the washers under the Katana lock ball guide? Or does it involve removing all the pieces similar to this post below? Any other tips on protecting the game? Is it only this ball guide that seems to need it?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/78#post-5144489
Is there a code updated expected? It seems pretty polished to me!?
Deadpool has the hold start to restart your game, but does not have the hold left flipper and start to end current game option. Hopefully that comes at some point. Dwight put it in GoT and GB. I would like to see it in all their games.
Quoted from hawkfanz:When's the best time to use "Big BOOM"? I always feel like it's somehow wasted when I use it.
Not saying its the best by any means, but I try to use it when everything is lit during mechsuit and hopefully when I lucked into a playfield multiplier.
Quoted from hawkfanz:It almost feels more useful using the BOOMS 1 at a time to get those tougher shots when in a battle.
Sure that is a good way to use an individual "yellow" boom. Once you get red, you have to use it though which is what I thought you were originally asking.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Pretty casual wishlist’s for the most part. But, George Gomez hinted at an update 1 or 2 months ago on facebook. Hottest item on everyone’s wishlist is a better high score table like JP, IMDN, SW, etc...
I would really dig the hold left flipper and start to end a game option too. I have a little one, so we see a lot of four player games running if the games are on.
Quoted from DaddyManD:All, have been a DP Pro owner for 2 years...love it but looking to spice things up. I have never installed a shaker motor...is it coded well on DP? Can someone describe when it kicks in? Easy to install? Pinball life or Stern shaker?
thanks!
I really dig the shaker in this game. It kicks in at quite a few spots. My fav being mechsuit.
Great looking update. I will be loading it up ASAP. All those high scores 
Love the start and left flipper feature.
Quoted from gumnut01:OMG! first turtles now this!
Thanks to stern for giving us something great to take our minds off the erection!!
Glad your mind is no longer on the erection bro
Quoted from FatPanda:How does one get to the DJ Mixer?
Hold both flippers in attract mode and it will pop up for you.
Quoted from punkin:My update keeps saying rejected. It goes through the whole process and then say's it's failed. i've tried fast and full updates.
Stick issue? I've used the same stick on other sterns.
Ya swap your usb drive. My old faithful one decided to stop working with these Deadpool updates too.
Quoted from nicknack66:Did they remove the "DeadPool is the greatest" hi-res graphics and callout? I know it's a little on the long side, but I do like when it pops up from time to time. I think early on in the code it came up often since I saw it a lot and my playing certainly wasn't better then, but then thought I read that in a code update they reduced the amount of times it comes up (which was consistent with what I was seeing), but I now haven't seen it in awhile. Not sure if I am not playing enough, or well enough, but wanted to ask if anyone running 1.04 or 1.05 code has seen it? Thanks.
Yes I have seen it.
Quoted from JonCBrand:I was looking at the guide again today, noticed the dimples where they should have placed screws, Stern is silent and I cant go much longer not playing. Im thinking over the long weekend I will resolve this one way or another.
I cant think of a good way to slot the holes with it on the machine, also thinking the slots have a chance for it to move eventually and damage PF.
Back to drilling 2 new holes I guess.
I doubt I ever sell it anyway.
Disclaimer- its your game, not mine. Now I would try to fix that by slightly elongating the "lower" hole on that ball guide. A dremel could get this done. Remove the ball guide, try a tip like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Rotary-Tool-Diamond-Wheel-Point-Set-for-Wood-Jade-Ceramic-Glass-Hardened-Steel-and-Semi-Precious-Stones-2-Pack-7150/203362662
You don't have to go very far to get flush with that post. It will make a huge difference in playability. Best of luck buddy. An issue here and there happens. I had it on a new in box, but still find stuff on games that have been through multiple owners.
Quoted from TommyMc:I've done that 3 maybe 4 times. Last time that didn't work at all, so I shut it down then came back later and everything was fine. But it's doing strange things sometimes the bonus lanes aren't lighting up correctly and you can't control them with the flipper buttons. But at least 3 times looks like it's working then BAM (pun intended) messed up again.
I had the top lane lights act up with some flickering right after I updated code too. Also had an insert changing colors on it's own to a blue I don't recall seeing before on the game. Hasn't happened since though.
Quoted from Meri-cah:Another monster game. I can verify that you can get mechsuit multiball on every ball. I got one on ball one. Then on my extra ball got another. Then one more on ball 3. Beat it up. But still haven’t finished the game. Ugh!!
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That is a lot of weapons 
I have games with very few chimichangas all the time. I need to focus on getting some earlier in the game.
I was in megalodon and got the third katana lock. It started releasing into multiball, but started the sounds, lights, screen orchestration well afterwards (maybe 10 or 15 seconds).
If the drop targets won't stay up you may need a new "ledge".
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-3-bank-target-rest-ledge.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-4-bank-target-rest-ledge.html
These break. Then the drops will not stay up and can cause weird behavior as mentioned above.
Cracked 7 billion tonight and completed all the villains, megakrak rex, sinister, clone, etc. Previous high was just over 2 last week. Before that I had hit the 1.5-1.6 range a few times.
Quoted from edward472:Well sound like you've done all you can. Time to sell it to me
A few games I have moved very quickly after reaching the end. GoT went shortly after. TZ I kinda quit playing once I was getting there regularly. The wife kept playing though. This Addams Family I toured the mansion on the second day of having it. Not sure how long it will last. Deadpool though... I still feel like I want to get more. Its soooooo good. I don't even know the lil' deadpool modes much at all. I want to learn those more. I feel like I just kinda lucked through the sinister modes honestly. Not sure how the scoring even worked because I just wanted to keep the game going. I really like this one.
Quoted from FatPanda:Does anyone else's auto-launch sometimes fail to make it fully around the orbit? Seems like my autolaunch is pushing the ball into the left rails in the shooter lane and causing it to clunk as it enters the right orbit. A manual plunge doesn't have any issues. What kind of adjustment is there (if any) on the auto-launcher?
Haven't had the issue on deadpool, but have on a different game. I think the usual deal is to make sure the "forks" of the autolaunch are rest just right when the ball is in the shooter lane. Good contact evenly is key. It is not tough to give a little bend and adjust.
From tiltforums rulesheet:
http://tiltforums.com/t/deadpool-rulesheet/4311/1
10. Wizard Modes
Mr. Sinister: The Megakrakolodonus Rex
Complete both quests and Sauron Multiball to qualify. In this mode you battle the Megakrakolodonus Rex. Single-ball mode with an initial ball saver. Hit blue shots to build up a jackpot and eventually reveal his weak spot at the Lil Deadpool target. While he is in a weakened state, you have 10 seconds to bash Lil’DP as many times as you can to score a 1x, 2x, 3x, etc… jackpot. Assuming he has health left, you return to phase 1 for more blue shots and jackpot building. 15 shots to the target will finish him off and light the Final Shot scoop to finish him off for big points. Also like any other Quest, progress is saved if you drain.
Mr. Sinister: Clone Multiball
Complete Juggernaut/Sauron, Mystique/Sauron, and Sabretooth/Sauron Team-up Battles to qualify. More info needed.
Mr. Sinister: The Final Battle
Complete both Mr. Sinister modes above and Mechsuit Multiball (which you very likely would have by this point) to qualify. Let’s defeat Mr. Sinister (this time it’s personal!).
Phase 1: Timed single ball mode: 45 seconds. Collect the 4 Team-up shots. (what happens if you drain before 45 seconds are up?)
Phase 2: Timed multiball: 70 seconds. Shoot blue shots to collect jackpots until time runs out. Lit Team-Up shots double jackpot value. Hit Final Shot for big points in the last 15 seconds of the multiball. At the end, all balls drain, all modes reset, and a new ball is served to shooter lane. The Special will be lit at the u-turn upon completion of this phase.
Quoted from EternitytoM83:Wait, is that freshly unboxed with no red bulbs in the GI? Did Stern figure out that red light doesn't illuminate?
Looks red by the shooter lane to me.
I swapped to all sunlight frosted comet bulbs in mine and really like the look.
Quoted from Smack:Do you think it is a function of the target? There are a lot of posts in here that talk about alignment but it certainly is not an easy shot.
What is the pitch of your game? 7 degrees seems to be what is recommended for making the SNIKT and Katana ball guide shot most reliably.
I don't think you will find anybody making that shot every time or very close to it. My game plays better closer to 6.5 degrees. I had most of my games steeper before, but have found 6.5 things just feel better. You can open up outlanes to make it tougher. You can change settings in the menu as well. Too steep and the shots change. All that said, every game can be just a bit different. Find what you like and what works.
Quoted from JonCBrand:Cointaker has mirror blades single pack fits stern dmd/spike for $85 or 2 pack for stern dmd $127.
Sold my StarTrek Premium so I cant compare cab size.
I assume they are the same, can anyone confirm.
Yep, same. Since you mentioned Star trek...
20210107_213759.jpgQuoted from JonCBrand:Thank you, I have no need for a second set of blades yet..
Yet....
Quoted from Looprunner:Does anyone know the reference number for the slingshot posts that holds the rubber? The top left post on the left slingshot cracked. It's still holding up but I would like to replace it. I looked at the manual three times and cannot find a reference number for that particular post.
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-narrow-plastic-post-1-116-tall.html
Should be these.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Really digging Deadpool. Only played the pro.Is the premium worth the extra money over the pro? Didn’t care for it at first but the more I played it on location the more I love it.
I love the old video game sound effects like Tempest and the old school street fighter fighting sequences. If my Elvira order falls through this will be my next pin.
Thanks for any help. Got this custom neon sign for my 50th birthday today.
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Love Deadpool. I have a pro, but have put a good number of games on le on location. The biggest playing difference is the loop/orbit to inlane diverter to me. I love drop targets and would really like to have them, but on the sides, i can do without. You won't be disappointed either way. Pro may be easier to find.
Quoted from toddmann:The pro version doesn’t have apron spotlights. It seems all the newer titles coming out of stern have them on all trim levels. I’m curious if anyone has tried to add them to a Deadpool pro. Drilling holes in each side of the apron and adding leds. It seems it would brighten up the lower play field considerably. My AIQ sitting right next to Deadpool looks very bright in comparison.
Any pics of what you are referring to? Deadpool is my newest game right now. I had a Stranger things, but don't remember seeing it on that.
Quoted from toddmann:Here’s a pic of my AIQ with the apron spotlights. The lighting difference is dramatic between the 2 machines. I guess Gomez was going for more of a gritty dark look.
fytr, your lighting upgrade looks awesome! Sounds like you made your own lighting kit and saved money. As much as I want to brighten up the play field, I thought comets exiting kit took it too far. Looks like you found a good middle ground. Could you please share your exact parts you used. (Qty’s and part numbers).
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That does look pretty cool. I haven't been a big fan of the led strips in the trough because it is tough get it "high" enough to eliminate the shadow from the flippers. I want the area just above the flippers lit better, not the area under the flippers. It looks like these apron lights help.
Quoted from toddmann:I may attempt to add them in the near future. The worst that can happen is screwing up the apron while drilling the holes. If that happens, a replacement apron is easily obtained from marco $85 - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5995-02
I would use Step Drill Bit, amazon.com link » , and will measure and match the exact size and positioning of the holes on my AIQ.
I emailed Comet to ask if they can put a kit together. It doesn't look terribly complicated based on this pic:
https://images.pinside.com/f/4f/b1/f4fb1cf273aaad466dc660eca084e5e8804dcb62.png
Quoted from Fytr:The factory apron lights do cause shadows in front of the flippers, as seen in the photo above. Mounting a 10 LED strip at the very top centre of the apron provides a more even light, IMHO.
I have tried, but unless the strip was inside the apron on the metal ball guide, it is visible to the eye.
Quoted from Blackzarak:Hey guys hope someone can help, I got a Deadpool with pinstadium installed notice there’s 2 wires clip on to GI sockets but there’s 2 more wires that need to be connected
1 is green
1 is red
I put some pictures incase someone has own pinstadium and can help out I’m assuming they go on the flashers but dont want to Risk it safe asking the question.
If they do go on the flasher which goes on which
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those are for the flashers. You can hook th up to a flasher of your choice, or a spinner, or a shaker, or controlled lamp.
Quoted from PinMonk:Either shorted wires or the transistor driving that flasher is shorted open is my guess. Does it still stay on if you disconnect the pinstadium?
Yes, remove the pinstadiums from the circuit entirely and assess.
Quoted from Grossp59:Joining the club with a new DP Pro just ordered. Wanted to get your thoughts on mods, accessories, cliffies… Is a shaker motor a must have?
Thanks!
I like the shaker in this game. My favorite use of it is Mechsuit multiball.
Quoted from newovad:There's not a Kraken insert so it might be difficult to make that magically happen. The current callouts by Cable already mention that he is taking care of the Kraken. Only way I could see it being done is as a video mode at this point.
Disco Kraken Rex
Quoted from Doctor6:Odd. Mine has 1.05 on it and was made only 7 days later.
As to those asking about a washer for a katana ball guide, help me out... not sure what that is referring to?
The katana ramp entry ball guide. It is the piece one to the right from lil-deadpool with a skinny blue rubber square at the end. It can dig in to the clear/art on some games.
Quoted from Doctor6:I'm just asking. I guess I dont understand how the damage won't take place at the washers, instead. So... I'm curious.
Also, does anyone else turn the flipper way the eff down? They seem unnecessarily strong. I can't imagine that's doing those damage points any favors.
I am not first owner of mine. It had a piece of mylar under the ball guide. Seems to have done the job just fine.
For flipper power, try out the snikt shot before you go too low on flipper power. That ricochet transition to up a ramp needs some energy. Also maybe your pitch isn't quite high enough. Remember too low of a pitch and you get a ton of slingshot and side to side action which really hampers gameplay to me.
Shaker is really good on Deadpool. They don't just crank it full bore at random times. Love it during Mechsuit especially.
Quoted from Dave_tX:So I got back under the playfield and confirmed all wires are attached and everything is fastened, but while I was under there I was pressing the target and while it is not moving freely I could see that it was not affecting the contacts from touching. Now I am concerned I just have a bad switch in my snikt target. Can someone confirm the following: When I am in diag and go to 'switch test' and the LCD says test any switch, it should pull up the switch info for the snikt target like when I trigger anything else(optical sensors, slingshots, etc.)
Nothing happens on the LCD when I press my snikt target. It just continues to say press any switch or whatever the message says. Is this a good indicator that I am dealing with a bad switch? Thanks for any advice
EDIT: typo
It is unlikely that a leaf switch would be "bad" on a new game. It would likely be adjustment or continuity. Adjustment is simply bending the blade to get the right distance. It should look like all the other target switches on the game. Continuity is much more likely if it is not registering at all in test mode while others are. Do you have any other switches not registering?
Quoted from Dave_tX:Thanks I will keep that in mind!
I am in business! Landed the shot about 5 times and all is in working order! I can finally get multipliers thanks to the help here. Thanks everyone who pitched in!
Good work man. This is actually a great way to learn about the inner workings of your game and will help you in the future. These things need adjustments and fixes from time to time. Its part of owning them. Don't be surprised when you bring home some non-functioning game in the future with the goals of bringing it back to life.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Anyone's Hell house break at the scoop. Looks like the scoop is welded to the bracket and the weld snapped. I might try to drill the weld holes out and add screws, but it has to be smooth or it'll interfere with the ball coming out of eject.
[quoted image]
I would replace vs repair on that part personally.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I haven't found a replacement part yet. I'm guessing this is a new problem that hasn't happened to many people. I thought initially a couple screws came loose. When I removed the scoop, I noticed it was welded together. It looks like its to tight of a fit to use screws. I emailed Stern, we'll see if they have a replacement handy.
Stern or a dealer are going to be where to source it. Pinballlife has good support and can source things like this at times as well.
Quoted from bob_e:Did any one add the knocker? I got my DeadPool last week
I grew up on EMs with knockers and put one in my TNA.
I haven't, but it should be pretty straight forward if you are looking at the kit from pinball life.
Quoted from NickyRicky:Kids just aren't into deadpool as much as I thought they would be. I totally enjoy it, but they outnumber me. We're thinking about going another path with a couple older 90s pins now.
While you wait, change the settings and make disco multiball easier to start. Hell make mechsuit easier too. Then let them play some more.
Quoted from Smack:Put some lube on that Disco spinner and you should be at Disco Multiball after 2 good rips on stock settings. Sometimes when I brick that shot I still get a butt load of spins out of it. And if you do that you may as well hit the Wolverine spinner too.
Good idea on MechSuit though. That is such a feel good mode with some fun animations.
For disco I was referring to the setting that starts it as soon as you get the spins without waiting for the drop through the upper lanes. That way a weak shot still can get it started.
Quoted from sethi_i:Quick side-question...what do you use? The spinner on my ST Prem is getting stuck.
Super lube. Takes a drop or two at most.
Hope all the new owners enjoy the heck out of their games. I just hooked up a sub to mine for the first time with the pinnovator board. Cranked up the sound a bit and really dig it. Combined with a shaker is pretty great.
Quoted from vikeking27:Anyone willing to share power settings and general setup for making the game a bit more casual friendly? Just unboxed the game and it’s pretty brutal (at least compared to AIQ and JP2) - I toned the slings and flipper power down just a bit, but still getting a lot of STDM rejects and frequent outlane drains. I have the bubble centered and measured 6.5 at the flippers, game is level. Any tips would be appreciated!
Try a ring on the outlane posts. That gives a fighting chance to save there. Sling power getting too low can make for more frustration actually. The ball can bounce back and forth even more without getting to the top of the slings. Often it gets just enough to go right to the outlane.
Quoted from Pinzzz:Hi guys, could someone measure this opening for me? Center to center of the top nuts. I am thinking about adding a one way gate when my game arrives. Thanks in advance.
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I would wager that would cause ball traps. Unless I just don't understand what you are trying to do.
Quoted from Pinzzz:I thought about the possibility of ball traps with the gate. but there might be enough slope to direct the ball to the pop and not get trapped.
I was hoping I could temporarily borrow the gate from my Iron Maiden shooter lane exit. and give it a try. but I need a measurement first, because my game is not going to be here for a couple of weeks.
If Maidens gate is not the right size. I was going to order the correct size from Marco before my game arrives.
My pops are semi sensitive and the ball will occasionally rest there without a gate.
What are you trying to change by doing this?
I don't think it's a good idea, but it's your game.
Quoted from punkin:Slight nudge is all you need.
Same for a ball coming out of the right orbit. It it has speed it will hit the post and come to the left flipper. If it is slow, I nudge to avoid a middle drain.
Quoted from jwtcmu9316:Hey everyone, it seems this has been asked before but I can't figure it out. Sometimes when doing a super skill shot on my DP Prem the ball hits the left sling coming out of the left orbit. I've talked with the distributor and we can't figure out why it's happening. It's at 7 degrees and completely level. We even tried a slight adjustment on the left guide rail but it's still happening.
Take a look at the ball guide on the entrance to the left orbit. You can give it the slightest bend. This will allow the ball coming around from the right side to head to the flipper rather than the sling. It doesn't take much at all. Try it and then test, rinse repeat.
Quoted from DaveH:I haven’t looked at the guide on my DP, but that’s where I’d go. I’d loosen it, move it as much as possible, then tighten it. If that wasn’t it, bending a bit would be next. It only takes a tiny bit to change the trajectory. And it shouldn’t hit the sling like that.
This is exactly what needs to be done.
Quoted from Xelz:Found it in the switch test, it’s the right katana opto. Heh, how does an opto get adjusted to fix triggering off vibrations?
Make sure it's mounted tight and that the connection is good on the wiring.
Quoted from Haymaker:Jeez, I haven't even cracked a billion yet! Came close once but still haven't done it. Haven't made it to any of the Mr. Sinister modes or Krakamegasuarus either. I stink at pinball
If you want to progress, then you can safely ignore everything except defeating the three main battles. Get your teamups working on whichever battles are toughest for you. Sabretooth- Shoot the orbits a few times and he is done. Juggernaut can be beat the same way, just hit the dead/pool targets first to light the shots in red. Mystique shoot the center spinner then hit the now lit white shots and she gets beat. Getting wolverine can be particularly helpful here. You can use lil deadpool multiball to assist with the safety of the second ball bouncing around to hit some shots as well.
Once you get to the quests, those can both be beat pretty quickly if you are going for progression vs points.
Quoted from wtatumjr:When you complete the 4 top rollovers shouldn't the 2x between the flippers light? I'm getting the points but no light.
The multiplier inserts by the flippers are for playfield multipliers. Those come from snikt shots, weapons, etc. The top rollover lanes increase bonus x which is only displayed on the lcd.
Quoted from joelbob:1:14ish if you can't wait... but obviously I'd suggest giving the entire thing a listen!
Nice interview! It was cool to hear a bit more in depth on the game itself. Many podcasts/interviews tend to focus on collective work/career timelines, so it was cool to get their takes on some of the more minute details on a specific game.
For those that haven't listened, George alludes to a "challenge" type mode possibly coming to Deadpool and maybe some other games. September time frame is also mentioned. It sounds like a similar deal to what JP, AIQ, TMNT, and Mando have with the mode being accessible from holding the flipper buttons (just like the DJ Mixer).
Quoted from beefzap:Can someone post a link to the installation instructions / video for the Comet Pinball GI upgrade kit? Thanks
Not sure there is one. Its pretty straight forward though. Just swap bulbs. You can add the spotlights where ever you want really, though the slings help out a lot with the center of the playfield. Also you can get bulbs from under the playfield by taking down the socket itself in a lot of cases. That can save taking out ramps, katana, etc.
Quoted from RobT:Very strange that he would recommend WD-40 to "lube" the katana ball guide, since WD-40 is not a lube.
It sounded more like cleaning the ball guide. So WD-40 as a solvent to remove goop is the intent more likely.
I don't think playfield protectors are necessary at all. If you want one then fine go for it, but not required. The washer thing, its protection. My kitana entrance ball guide has a simple piece of mylar and seems to be doing the job just fine. Was on there when I got the game a year or so ago.
Quoted from Xelz:I’m getting a lot of rejects from the scoop, especially when hitting it dead center from the right flipper. Any thoughts how to keep the ball from rebounding out?
Is your protector in good shape and nice and flat all around?
Quoted from punkin:Yes the top lanes, at the far left, i can see one post there, that's the one that's getting the hangups now. I cut the new rubber off it but it's still hanging there. When i pulled that plastic, one of the red posts fell out and i didn't see where it came from. I put it back where i thought it should go, but i'm not sure. Can see one post in your pic, but not the one further up around towards the orbit. Does it have a rubber? Is it sorta next to the one under the plastic?
The one there behind the ball guide is the only other one I see. Hopefully this helps sort it out. Hangups drive me nuts.
20210714_183633.jpgQuoted from punkin:Thanks, i have the ball guide on the inside of the post. Pull it all apart again time.
Always fun. Well you motivated me buddy. Installed the cliffy protectors I had ordered a while back on the lane guide, shooter lane, and drop targets. Holding off on the scoop for now since mine is still working just fine from the factory.
Quoted from wtatumjr:Is there any difference in the Lil Deadpool drop targets between the Pro and Pre/Le? I'm working on a mod. Thx!
They are the same buddy.
Quoted from Knackers:Hey guys, I noticed that when applying washers at the base of ramps that there are 2 methods being used. Either mylar or a nylon washer as a base for protecting the playfield from the metal washer. Is one better than the other or it doesn't really matter.
Small pieces of mylar can start to lift after a while sometimes. A washer or cliffy would probably be more long term type solutions.
Quoted from Ceemunkey:Ok, - I love this machine so much I am very seriously thinking about upgrading my pro to a premium. I know there's probably threads galore about comparing DP pro and premium, but have any actual pro owners here done this and found it really was worthwhile?
Premiums will be here in Australia around Feb 22, I could sell my pro tomorrow I'm sure but I don't wanna have no DP in my life for that long, I'd probably wait till December-ish to sell.
Also my pro currently has the topper (which I would keep), art blades and pinwoofer plus awesome speakers (it sounds A-MAZING). Will the premium upgrade make that much difference? The left orbit loop look great, as does the disco ball... I should also say that in terms of art package - i've only seen pics of the premium but I do prefer the pro.
Sound is only upgraded on the LE. So if you want the upgraded sound experience, just keep all your parts and return your pro to stock.
I have a pro and am very happy with it. If you want the premium, then go get it. I doubt you will be disappointed still having the game in your collection. You can't really go wrong. The game is highly sought after these days so you can surely sell it easily.
Quoted from FatPanda:This is normal. I believe George covered flipper alignment in a recent podcast for DP. He basically says that the tip of the flipper should be in-line with the screws holding the return lanes in. You might have to tweak your game a bit, but it should be slightly "flopped."
Yep, otherwise the targets would get tough to actually aim for and hit.
Quoted from Lucxor:I have DP only few days now.
Love the game!
But i recognized that the pin seems very dark.
It is difficult to see the upper playfield part.
So I am on thinking about a pinstadium or would be Anti-reflective glass enough?
Pinstadium seems to be very expensive.
I swapped out all GI bulbs with comet 2smd frosted sunlight bulbs and also added two spotlights to the slingshots.
20200915_180227.jpgQuoted from Lucxor:Didn't knew that. Will try that first. Thank you.
looks like it helps a lot against these reflections.
Where did you bougth it. Maybe you could help out with some link. Would aprechiate
Thank you. I will check that out. But I do not want to mess with the electronics
Also thank you everyone for that lot of helpful advice.
As Deadpool would say.
You are Great!
Or you can piece the parts together yourself. The kit would make it easy though.
Quoted from sepins:Do you pull all the topside plastics to replace them or use a nut driver from bottom to replace the bulbs.
Sorry for question but used to doing them on Wms/Bly and was pretty easy on them.
A little of both. Basically tried to do whatever was easiest and required the least amount of parts removal. You can get to pretty much all the GI from below. In some cases it worked going from the top to replace a rubber at the same time. It is not a long job though.
Quoted from rai:How hard is it to fix the ball guide so that it doesn't dig into the PF?
Not at all. Loosen a couple parts under the playfield.
Quoted from ExSquid:How many of you guys have pin stadium set up on your DP's? When my PRE gets here at " some point" I'm thinking of getting them. Played the game a lot on location and its definitely a little on the " dark side" in the middle of the playfield. Any opinions on this?
I have posted a couple of times in the thread a pic of my game with spotlights and all GI bulbs swapped with comet sunlight 2smd frosted bulbs. It brightens things up nicely with those added.
Quoted from wtatumjr:I'm so sorry this took so long but the effort has been well worth it to light up that dark middle area a bit. The main light is red but changes to orange, green, etc according to the light that's already in the Lil DP area behind the drops .
These should be ready shortly from Mezel. I have no financial interest in this, I'm only the idea guy and test fitter . My guess is this kit will be about $50. I trimmed the stickers to let more light thru but you can use the whole sticker if you like it a bit darker.
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Nice!
I debated doing this for Metallica and then thought Deadpool might be even cooler with the translucent drops. You are all over it!
Quoted from Mattyk:The orbits are a bit tricky for me too which is why I’ve been thinking about it. Maybe it would help the kitana shot too.
Very slightly lower into a drooped position is what George recommended before on interviews/show discussions. Keith Elwin also just mentioned liking the same on his games on the final round podcast. Shots to the side of the game get better in this orientation.
Maybe its placebo, but I put on Titan low bounce flipper rings tonight and beat beat Mr Sinister on my first game. I think I will stick with these for a while .
Quoted from ExSquid:So I'm going to assume the new December Premium builds will have the new QR reader and WIFI connection built in?
Sounds like a safe assumption based on what info has been released over the last day or so.
Quoted from Xelz:How do the low bounce Titans feel compared to broken in rubber? I have the normal Titan competition bands, and I want a rubber-like bounce, but these feel almost too bouncy and haven’t broken in after 600 games.
Less bouncy than standard titan for sure. not as grippy as a super band either. I put some on Metallica too and they felt good there.
Just another pinball podcast interviewed George and Tanio. They mentioned a September update. Lilley this will be tied to the insider connected platform as well.
Quoted from newovad:I sometimes wonder if Tanio asked not to be lead programmer on other machines. Thanks for the DP though.
Highly recommend listening to the interview. It sounds like Tanio will be lead on a game again once the online stuff is done.
Quoted from joelbob:I've never loved red powder coating on the Premium. What are people's thoughts on these color choices as I think I am somewhat limited on the t-molding options.
1. Bright blue t-molding but do a brighter purple powder coating to match the gums of the shark.
2. Purple everything matching the purple t-molding
3. Dark blue everything matching the dark blue t-molding
4. Bright green everything matching the bright green t-molding.
Personally I think I'm liking the purple or dark blue...
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Second option looks best to me. Not a fan of the green on this game personally.
Quoted from Insanity199:It does stink. I understand the supply chain/labor issues, but it would seem they would have to slow down their release schedule to catch up on existing orders. For the record, I have two machines on order (one is DP Premium) that were suppossed to be delivered by the end of the year. My hopes are running thin as Stern has no real incentive to deliver more this year; starting 1/1/22, they will be charging more. I will have to seriously consider whether I would be willing to pay the price increase due to a month or so delay.
I think they are building what they can, meaning what parts they have on hand. They may be missing one or two parts to prevent full deadpool runs or any game really.
Quoted from Insanity199:I am in no way stating that they are just sitting on parts and not building them to collect more money post 1/1. My point was that these machines share a lot of parts. Sharing and re-use is essential to a profitable business model in almost any industry. However, by releasing a new title like Godzilla (which I also pre-ordered), it is going to require a lot of those shared parts which can put further strain on getting the Mandos, DPs, Stranger Things, etc built in a timely fashion. Godzilla already has the new pricing model built in.
In the end, we can just all speculate and see what the future brings. It would just stink to have to pay 800-ish more for a DP Premium because it was built in Jan instead of Dec. We can probably all agree on that.
I hear you man, but it could really come down to something "small" such as the center insert light board simply isn't available. Or maybe they got a shipment and they were bad. Stuff happens. They build what they can. I don't think its a conspiracy to push games past January. They are a production house that needs to build to stay afloat.
Quoted from bghenson23:I'm pretty certain that multiple sources have confirmed that prices are going up to Godzilla level prices as of Jan 1.
This is correct.
Quoted from Xelz:Haha, yeah, I was a bit brain dead when I posted. Although 100k sounds about right for my first couple of games
Man I can score a billion on the game yet still have frequent ball one where my bonus is a whopping.... 10 points!
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Should I be able to backhand the left ramp?
I can from a trap. It rattles a bit, but usually can make the shot. Just not as smoothly as from the right.
Quoted from onyxx:I can't micro flip on my left Deadpool flipper but works fairly OK on the right flipper. What part is usually the problem when the flipper sensitivity isn't there to micro flip? It's not because of my poor skills as I can do it fine on other pins like Jurassic Park etc.
Also try to gap your flipper button leaf switches to be matching.
Quoted from cloggedDrain:I'm trying to track down a problem with one drop target on the left:
I lifted the playfield and removed the PCB with the four optos to get a better look at the mechanism. Unfortunately I didn't notice anything wrong. Here's a video of that:
The locking washers (I think that's what they are?) all seem the same. While lifted, I was hitting the drop targets with my hand from the other side to make them fall back down. The one that kept failing seem to stay up pretty well when the playfield was lifted.
Anybody have any suggestions?
I had had that on my Metallica. I applied a little bit of heat with a heat gun (hair dryer could work too) to the middle area of the tldrop target then lightly bent it forward a bit. It will allow the lip to better contact the ledge.
Quoted from splickety_lit:Put a deposit down for Deadpool Premium. This will be my first pin, I've been obsessively reading about it and watching gameplay videos. The distributor said it should be around January.
Highly recommend you stop watching vids of it! Get the game and discover all the awesome stuff packed into it. Worth the wait.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:I'm so grateful for all of the advice so far! I guess I'll have to add the Snikt shot to my practice routine. I feel like I've sort of hit a wall on my progress. I'm doing much better with ball control and understanding the rules. Sometimes I can even nudge and it makes a difference. My aim is still awful, and I brick a lot of shots that puts me in danger. Either a bricked shot leads to the slings flinging the ball to the outlane before I can react, or the ball slips between the flippers. I rarely get to 100,000,000, which I consider a minimum decent score. My high score is still only 351, 768,810, which I know is not that impressive.
Can anyone share their strategy when they start a new game? What do you shoot for first? When do you go into a battle, and in what order? I feel like I go back and forth in my strategy and I'm not sure if I am prioritizing things right. Do you all try to get a Snikt constantly to get the multiplier, or does that just come as you are doing other things? Again, I am loving this game and am happy that this forum exists to help. I'm trying to avoid getting frustrated with my lack of progress!
For strategy I would say try to hit the right orbit early to go for some chimis (yellow inserts). That will open up the option of quests even if you don't have a battle lit. Also pay attention to weapons and try to rack them up.
Make sure you can hit the scoop very consistently. So much happens there (extra ball, mystery, quest/battles start and final blow, mechsuit multiball, etc). You should be able to hit it from both flippers pretty well. On the left from a trap is certainly much easier, but from the right you should practice both on the fly and from a trap.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:Very helpful! Do you try to rack up disco spins early on the left orbit?
I get disco pretty often yes, but don't usually go for it directly unless I see I am close to getting it and don't have something else immediately ready.
Also for battles, sabertooth is my first most of the times. Then I go juggernaut then mystique. Waiting for those two gives you a better chance of getting your teamups ready as well which can help complete them and get higher scores.
Quoted from maffewl:Curious. Do you find it easier to hit the snikt target from a left flipper feed or catch?
I can hit it from a trap however the energy isn't always there. So a feed with some speed on it tends to have a better chance of actually making it up the ramp.
Quoted from dpkzone:Can anyone recommend the best place to buy mirror blades for my DP pro? Thanks!
Cointaker has them. You can probably pick up a set at a show too and save shipping.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:Are there recommended settings besides the factory stock settings for Deadpool? I'm curious about the slings, flipper strength, etc. Also, is the consensus that between 6.5 and 7 is best for slope? I see a lot of people have slope set at 6.8. Does that make it harder to get the ball up the ramps? It would great if people could post their settings for us newbies!
The one setting generally suggested is the trough strength. Dropping it down a bit can prevent some wear on the shooter lane that really bothers some.
As far as pitch, somewhere in that range and you will probably be good. What are you having problems with? Higher pitch will generally make the game play a touch quicker and slightly reduce side to side action, while also potentially making some ramp shots not make it up and around.
Quoted from Rum-Z:I'm pretty sure he means just leave the leg levelers loose and not jam nutted.
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I never jam my nuts. Just not worth it.
Quoted from Smack:The Kraken and Wholly Mammoth achievements are curious. I wonder if this is from unused art when they were initially designing it. I can't recall if it was George Gomez or Zombie Yeti who mentioned it, but I think the initial plans were to have more Quests and Battles than what we ended up with.
I kinda makes sense as I always wondered why T-rex + Megalodon + Sauron resulted in squid/octopus legs. Not sure that the Mammoth was retained at all for Megakrakolodonus Rex. Actually is that a Mammoth tusk just behind the T-Rex head? Or is that part of the shark? Super important question, I know. I am likely reading wayyyy too much into this.
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There may be a chance that something like this makes it into the code. More likely though, I would guess that Stern provided a bunch of art assets to the partner company that is doing a bunch of the web and backend stuff for Insider Connected. There is likely to be unused asset material for other titles as well.
Quoted from Audioenslaved:So I asked my sister at the start of the week for a tnut and screw as one of mine broke in the back (top right of the pop bumpers) and they haven’t gotten back to me. Does anyone know what size screws and tnuts they used in this game I need one and my game has been down for 3 weeks
#6 and #8 T-nuts are typically used in most pinball machines in my experience.
Quoted from rapidflipper:Here’s the final result of my newly powder coated DP Pro. Color is Prismatic Illusion Red, total cost $250. I absolutely love both the look and feel. Worth it, but it was hard to go without my game for 10 days.
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Buddy that is looking really great! I may need to find another shop near me. The guys have had my IJ parts forever. First time it didn't turn out well at all.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:I settled on 6.8, but I'm not entirely sure what the "sweet spot" is yet. AT 6.5, the shots are easy to make, but even with the outlane rubbers on, constant cheap drains. At 7.0, the shots were mostly fine, but still too many cheap SDTM drains. I'm hoping 6.8 will be a happy medium.
Is there a relatively safe area of the playfield to go for when just trying to keep the ball alive before regaining control? This game can be frustrating because the slings tend to often shoot the ball right to the outlanes, anything near the center hits Lil' Deadpool and drains down the middle, on the right it's easy to brick a shot or get a slow roller down from the katana lane, and the "Dead" and "pool" standups tend to ricochet the ball into a drain or down the middle.
I keep hearing how this is an easy game with long ball times, but I'm not having that experience. I thought it might be the slope, but changing the slope didn't make it any better. I know I'm not great at pinball yet, but I feel like I'm having less frustrations on a variety of different machines I'm playing on location. This game is starting to feel unforgiving since I'm not making much progress. I know it's been criticized for being clunky, and I did play it a bunch on location before settling on it as my first machine. I felt like I was starting to get better, but now I feel like I'm getting worse and even more frustrated. I assumed that I would make steady progress after owning it, but I've kind of hit a wall. I'm better at ball control, aiming shots, and even a little bit of nudging, but my scores don't reflect that. Any advice to make progress would be greatly appreciated!
Getting more practice will help a ton. You will also find that many times location games don't play as fast or tough as your pristine new home game. Sling switches get beat up and get looser (meaning less sling action), dirt/carbon/rubber build up slow games down a ton, flippers with many thousands more flips than yours won't have as much power. All these things can make for a location game that plays very different than your game at the house.
Close your outlane posts. Open up the gap a tad on your slingshot switch blades. These are easily reversible and can give you a bit of leeway on difficulty. You can also change your game settings to not be as tough. Make the mutliballs easier to achieve, etc.
Folks spend a ton of money on these games. You should enjoy it. Tweak it to your liking. You can always make it tougher as you improve.
Quoted from JakePG:I have a digital leveler. My slope is about 6.8 and is level side to side, but bubble leveler on machine is not centered. Not sure what's up
Also make sure the katana is installed correctly. It should be flush on the posts it mounts to.
Quoted from JakePG:whats the recommended outlane post position?
You can add rubbers to the posts at the top of the land guide as a step and/or move the outlane posts down as another. Stock is no rubber.
Quoted from mostater:I recently had a similar situation with my DP. One of the connectors had entirely snapped off the switch body. I ordered a new switch and resoldered the existing wires to it.
I bought a Munsters that had the exact same issue. Owner didn't even know something was wrong. Easy fix though.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:Not that I have any interest in letting my Deadpool go, but I'm curious about how you all feel about trades? If you had a Deadpool Pro, what current pro machine would you consider trading for? The only ones (pro models) I would even consider would be Godzilla, Mandalorian, Stranger Things, or Jurassic Park.
From my recent playing experience:
Godzilla Pro is fun, but lacks so much compared with the premium. Taken on its own, I'm not sure what the major feature is. The building, bridge, and Mecha-Godzilla are all amazing on the premium, but not so much on the pro.
Mandalorian is also a lot of fun, but those plastic ramps make it hard to see. It also doesn't have much of a "wow" factor. For some reason, I do really like hitting the Razor Crest shot though!
Stranger Things is the one I think competes best. Great flow and the drop down screen with Demogorgon bash toy is a "wow" feature, even without the projector.
Jurassic Park is also great fun. The art isn't great on the pro, and the animations are mediocre. However, great flow and lots of targets to shoot. The Newton Ball is cool as well. This one is also a contender.
So, what would make you give up a Deadpool Pro and the awesome katana shot for another comparable (price/availability) machine?
I have owned STh and JP, played Mando, but not Godzilla yet. I wouldn't trade Deadpool for any of the others Godzilla notwithstanding.
JP is a tough shooting game. STh is way better now with the code but still well below DP for me. Mando I know I would get tired of quick.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:Anyone have a link to the correct flipper coil stops and sleeves for Deadpool? I have the "bronze dust" on the right side inside of the cabinet, and I imagine the coil stops need to be replaced. I looked on Pinball Life, but didn't see a listing for coil stops for modern Sterns.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6308-01
I usually get these from pinball life but they may be out of stock right now. Either way these should be the same.
Quoted from gumnut01:Half way along right flipper. I have noticed that the ball gets airball off the flipper when my wife flips the ball without letting it bounce. Not sure if I need to turn down scoop or whether I have a leveling issue.
Talking about ball handling has anyone noticed how
Much spin there is in deadpool? Really hard to cradle. Just keeps back spinning up the flipper. Not sure if it’s the orbits.
Do you have super bands or different flipper rubber on?
Outlane posts factory should have been middle on each side. No rubbers on the inlane posts. I have them on mine and don't feel bad about it at all though. Gives you a fighting chance at nudging there.
Quoted from northerndude:I've seen a few DP's with yellow rings. How's that for anyone?
All yellow?
All Clear?
Any other bitchin' ideas?
I had some of titans old original yellow on in a few spots and didn't care for it. Their new yellow would look better though I think. I have clears on a few spots now that are fine. More light is fine.
Quoted from Purdue:A terminal broke off my scoop switch. Anybody know which replacement switch i need and where to find one? Stern warranty is taking forever and i'd like to get my DP back up and running.
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Standard microswitch. Marcos/pinballlife/etc should have them. You can swap the actuator if you can't find the exact same one on one of the websites.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:definitely always keep the actuator. do not throw it out, desolder and solder on the new one. Also buy yourself a few switches when ordering the new one. You can also try DigiKey or mouser to get the part rather than a pinball store.... maybe.
I keep a few of the long actuators on hand too since you can easily trim them to fit in a variety of situations. Really nice to have on hand when shopping out a game to find a missing or broken one.
Quoted from Smack:To each their own but I would just hold onto it. I have one as well and have yet to install it after the washer fix. I have pre-existing damage on the playfield here so if I do sell DP that would be an option for the new owner if they wanna cover it, but truly unless I am specifically looking for this damage to the clear/paint I never notice it, whereas the Cliffy there will stick out like a sore thumb.
In short, put washers under your ball guides and your left ramp, you will be thankful for it after a ton of plays. I also put some mylar down under the ball/ramp guides as well but that could be overkill as I had pre-existing wear when I got my machine.
I put the cliffy protector on my game and don't even notice it being there. It definitely doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Its a pretty easy install too compared to some other machines I have installed his parts on.
Quoted from edward472:Still waiting in you to get tired on the game.. You've got to be close right!?!
man.... I dunno when I will get tired of this one. I have beat the game a few times and still love it. Such a great game.
Quoted from mbrave77:Im assuming its just loosen the ball guide from below, stick cliffy in, and then thighten it?
Pretty much yep. Maybe remove two nuts from below if I remember. Maybe it was just one. Not a hard install and it has the adhesive too.
Quoted from Aflacjack:Powdercoating done. Is a blue with rainbow highlights in the light. A bit bold and different but I really like.
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I personally would remove the leg protectors. They tend to damage cabinet decals more than. Protect them in my experience.
Quoted from Rickwh:Yikes 750 bucks. I havent bought new pinball stuff since SMVE i got NIB. So im having a bit of sticker shock. Is the DP topper even interactive? Or just some plactic decorations to stick up there?
The thumb moves kinda like this dude
Gladiator_Thumb_Down_01.gifQuoted from awesome1:I believe ALL shots inflict damage during a Battle, just a minor amount unless it's a lit shot and even more if a Team-up shot.
Right. I think its switch hits. Pops do more damage than say a spinner though unless the spinner is lit.
Quoted from awesome1:If it's acting intermittent - have you tried adjusting the arm that actuates the switch to insure full contact when depressed?
And also check wiring/continuity back as far as you can. If it goes to a connector somewhere, make sure its seated well.
Quoted from pinbuoy:Thanks for the response, but I thought the spinners only added damage if they are lit.
Same for bumpers, I thought they only added damage if it spelled that out.
Check out Jack's video. This should take you right to the juggernaut fight. Watch that he is getting damage even though he hasn't lit any of the shots yet via the dead and pool targets. Hitting random stuff gets you progression, just significantly less than a lit shot or a teamup added in.
This is one of those games that has a ton going on. I can still pick up little things on it or things that I forgot haha.
Quoted from mostater:Cliffy has something for that spot, too.
Yep. I put it on my machine. Nice friction fit part. He makes great stuff.
Quoted from Mattyk:Thanks for the feedback guys. I love DP so much. I’ve got a decision to make
Out of your three games, deadpool is the last I would let leave. But that's just one guy's opinion.
Quoted from Borntolose:Wondering if anyone can help me figure out where this solder broke?! Can’t seem to find where it broke.. Thanks
db
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It goes to the same spot the other black/green wire goes to. The tab on the leaf switch closest to the flipper coil.
Quoted from glpinball:I have 3 annoying ball hangups; bumper behind lil deadpool, right corner of lil deadpool, and pool drop targets ( gets stuck on target edge or even against lower post). Anyone solve these?
For the drop target related hangups, you should be able to slightly adjust the height by getting underneath the playfield. The one by the pop bumper I get occasionally, but its not as bad if you raise the back of the game a bit.
Quoted from Sleal16:Several months away but hope when the premiums get made with the IC, that it gets that extended apron art love. Would be a shame to cut a character. Dont want to lose out on cable+deadpool
I have an IC kit on the way. I am leaning towards doing the coin door install. Obviously things are different for IC factory install vs the upgrade kit though.
Quoted from Sleal16:Not sure if I saw right but think I saw the Batman run from last month have full apron art...so lets see if thats the trend. Think if its done quick/lazily and just remove the character for the reader and stickers, I'll move it to the coin door and look for modding options to add back in the little cutout. 7 months out, so I shouldnt be worrying about it
Batman already had that before IC though right?
Quoted from J85M:Anyone able to send me a pic of the scoop from under the playfield? Trying to work out how it is lit. Thanks
Is yours not working? Its just a bulb shining in from the side.
Quoted from glpinball:Fek yeah!!!! Finally got to and beat the final battle! 1.3b just on the final battle alone. Only took me 18 months lol.
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Right on! When I "finish" a game I frequently get bored and move it on. Deadpool is still here even though I beat the game a good while ago. Such a great machine.
Quoted from Purdue:Steve at MI Pinball refinery kicked my deadpool up a notch!
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Looks great. Where did you get those side rails?
Quoted from Purdue:They are a custom set. Not available anymore, i picked them up used.
Right on. That shape is cool and looks better on a few games vs the lollipop style.
Quoted from Rickwh:Getting some weak auto launch that sometimes dont even get outta the shooter lane. More and more weak over time. Inspected things and nothing seems bound up. Guess i could replace the coil sleeve but it doesnt look dirty or like its keeping the plunger from moving.
Any suggestions?
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From the top does each side of the mech rest on the ball and close to a even/centered perspective? If not you can give the mech a slight bend to make better contact.
Deadpool is one of the games that the differences between models just isn't very pronounced in my opinion. For gameplay its really just the drop targets and the loop mech. Non gameplay you get the disco ball. I love drop targets for sure. Loop mech is cool too. But look at the price differences. NIB its 2000. Secondary market its something crazy like 4-5k difference. Use that cash on something else and play the heck out of a pro.
This is coming from someone who updated a Metallica and LZ to premiums.
Quoted from pinbuoy:What does it mean when the large deadpool arrows are blue?
http://tiltforums.com/t/deadpool-rulesheet/4311
Bumpers: Three pop bumpers located behind Lil’ Deadpool. Hitting the bumpers will spawn ninjas during normal play, shown as blinking blue lights in front of the major shots. Defeat a ninja to collect a ninja star and increase the Ninja Multiball Jackpot value.
Quoted from Fez:I was lucky enough to get in on the latest shipment of premiums. I had a couple of questions. Sometimes the ball gets stuck behind the little Deadpool drop targets like it doesn’t recognize it’s there for a while. Sometimes it’s when all the targets are up but it’s also happened where just the far right drop target is up and it just sits behind it.
The second question is if the post in the picture is a big deal. It seems pretty far off but I wasn’t sure if there was anything I could even do about it. This is my first new pin.
[quoted image]
The post has a bit of a crooked lean. I would see if it could be straightened up if it were my game. Just don't force it and break the post screw.
Quoted from Pinbolls:Ok, so I just got my Deadpool Premium delivered a few days ago. I was putting up some amazing scores, which is totally not in line with my skill set. I have noticed a few things, the first thing is the right diamond collects automatically at the start of some games. Another thing is random scoring when I push the flipper buttons. The ball isn't hitting anything that would warrant the score to change. Sometimes even when the ball isn't in play pushing the flipper buttons will award points. Also I have collected 5x Snikt, I'm not sure if I'm actually hitting the shot or if it's another error. It's hard to tell, because I got the 5x during Mech suit Multi-ball. The last thing I noticed is I'm collecting a ton of weapons, but not hitting the shots. I think somehow when I push the flipper buttons, the game is awarding weapons.
I went to play a pro model on location and noticed I wasn't collecting nearly as many weapons and I wasn't scoring nearly as high.
Any help would be appreciated.
Get into switch test and see what's registering. You may need to bump around the playfield a bit to cause it.
Quoted from Pinbolls:I went into the switch test and the flippers are not registering any other switch. One thing I did notice is the opto behind little Deadpool registered on its own. I wasn't testing anything when it popped up. Also something is causing a large number of weapons to be collected. Hopefully I can call Stern on Monday and figure it out.
So it might not be the flipper switches, but rather something physical (kinetic) causing another switch to activate. That's why I recommend bumping your hand around in the playfield. See if any switches activate.
Quoted from Pinbolls:Apparently the pop bumper is causing the opto to stay locked in the on position. When I'm in switch test mode, the right katana opto operates as it should. The square appears and disappears. When I hit the pop bumper directly behind that opto, instead of seeing the pop bumper it quickly switches and shows the right katana opto and the square stays and the opto no longer registers.
Thats progress! So check the opto alignment and mounting. If it is off a bit moving that can cause the constant registering that you were seeing. This almost certainly can be fixed without parts replacement based on what you just posted though. That is good news.
Quoted from Pinbolls:Thanks. What is confusing to me is why the pop bumper is causing the opto to register and stay on
Its kinetic energy likely causing it. Vibrations and bumping from the game is likely doing it.
Quoted from awesome1:You can't actually "defeat" Sauron and have the mode end. The mode keeps going until you drain down to one ball, just like Mechsuit Multiball in that regard.
For some reason Sauron multiball likes to make me drain 3 all at once. It seems as though I rarely ever drain down and return to single ball play mode!
Quoted from Bmanpin:Boom that's it! I missed this at first but all the GI labeled 155 in the manual are out. That's 9 white GI's in total. Will be pulling these out to have a peek.
Friendly reminder that most GI sockets can be removed from the underside and saving a bunch of top side teardown.
Quoted from Eskaybee:3rd lil Deadpool mode. Complete for permanent 2x.
How boring lol, do you at least have the outlane posts taken off?
No flipper rubber either. True hard mode!
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Been trying really hard to connect with this game and can’t.
Find it forces me to throw shots on the fly often and it is MB intensive sometimes.
Ugh. I am trying really to enjoy playing it but it is just not happening.
There are only 2 games that did this to me so quickly and I currently own them both, the other one is GB.
I cant enjoy them, they are just not what I like.
Do I need to see a dr? Lol
Gomez games dont get the love they deserve when it comes to flow. He is pretty dang good at it. Corvette, Johnny Mnemonic, Deadpool, etc are all flowy games. It should feel good to hit stuff on the fly. Have you hit the super skill shot or the MXV skill shot yet? Man if those don't feel good.... Maybe you and the game just aren't meant for each other...
Quoted from ExSquid:The Colossus shot........im new to the game. Is this shot supposed to have a path that its "supposed to go to" or is it random? Sometimes it comes out and goes right into the inlane on the right side. Other times it just bounces around randomly. Just wondering.
If you hit it just right it hits the target for the Colossus Jackpot which scores 10% when lit. The target is actually facing away from the player. Awesome little detail.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Can’t decide which is my favorite shot in this game. Pretty crazy how many satisfying shots it has, anyone have a favorite?
• left loop return to right flipper
• Successful Colossus shot
• Snikt shot
• Katana ramp
• Ninjapocalypse
Snikt!
Quoted from LeMansFan:Well, guess I’ll just have to be patient and find out on my own. Thanks for welcoming me to the Deadpool club.[quoted image]
While your specific search term may not have returned many results it does get discussed quite frequently. The good thing is you can't go wrong at all with any version of this game. Premium adds drops to the sides and the return loop ramp. You are gonna have a blast with your game. Welcome!
Quoted from Kevlar51:I’ve got an issue that I have seen posted elsewhere—my insert lights are lighting and flashing at incorrect times and the flippers for whatever reason control the behavior. When it’s popped up in the past, reseating the node connectors has solved the issue. But now it’s not solving anymore.
Has anyone come across a more permanent solution?
Which connectors? I would recommend checking connectors at the main node board near the flippers as well as any light boards that have flickering inserts.
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:I just posted my most recent mod for Deadpool Pro / Prem / LE in the Pinside shop. I wanted to create something that enhanced the diverter for the orbit and the airball protector for the left ramp. The bullets are custom made replicas of .50 cal bullets with gold-colored casings and copper hollow points. The baseplate is textured metallic red that closely resembles Deadpool's suit. The inserts are laser cut and recessed in the baseplates. I am absolutely loving this game and wanted to make something that fit right in with the theme. The diverter cover or airball cover can each be purchased individually for $45 or can be purchased as a set for $85 ($5 discount for ordering the set). I currently have 50 diverter covers and 50 airball covers built and ready to ship. I included some picture below along with an install video that covers all versions (Pro/Prem/LE). Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.
Pinside Shop Link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/06614-deadpool-ramp-and-diverter-cover-mods-pro-prem-le
Install Video:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very cool Craig!
Quoted from greenhoody:Do you ever fight the vampire thats on the top left or the Playfield?
No
Additionally, there is a setting that you can go for that starts the multiball as soon as you get the spins or when it gets into the pops (default).
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Such a great game. Got tons of time on an LE with the .86 code. The updated code is awesome on this. Really enjoying unpacking this game on my pro at home.
[quoted image]
Hey buddy, Highly recommend swapping the GI out for all white. I went sunlight and really like it. Better visibility and the art looks better too.
Quoted from Thomas3184:I’m new to adding lighting, what would I have to buy and how to hook it up to get lighting through the apron similar to new sterns?
https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/matrix
Lots of options and ways to make it pretty easy. Buying a kit is a good way to start. I get to the point now that I have a variety of individual pieces to make whatever I need work. I use it for spot lights, led strips on playfield, star post lights, led strips on the back of the head, lit flipper buttons, etc.
Quoted from rai:Just curious, have a lot of people got to the end of the game? I’ve seen Jack Danger did, wondering how impossible it would be.
Yep, I have beat it twice. I have been to the end another time or two where I drained out. Certainly attainable in my opinion. Its next to my Metallica where I have not even sniffed End of the Line.
Quoted from Zambonilli:Anyone use a scorbit with DP? I'm not a fan of the idea of paying each manufacturer for online services in a couple of years. I did not update the firmware to the latest version with Stern's support for online services.
So you aren't going to update on the chance they may charge for online at some point (which they have not indicated they will)?
Quoted from Zambonilli:They will charge, it's only a matter of time and that time will come sooner if there isn't competition like scorbit. Mainly interested in if the scorbit experience is worth it on DP today or if I should wait.
Updating to the latest code doesn't require you to use Insider connected though... And Scorbit certainly already costs money right now in up front purchase and subscription. I am not knocking it. I think its a cool prodcut/platform. I simply don't understand your take on the situation. As far as what Scorbit does on Deadpool, I would assume is the same as most other spike games. It pulls the scores in to the platform and lets you use it how you wish.
Quoted from ryandimx:Sold prices are still pretty insane though
If you aren't buying the game to play it then sell it sure. You are missing out though, because Deadpool is awesome.
Quoted from theun4gven:Last week I came across a distributor who said he had a pre-order spot for a Deadpool Pro. Yesterday he called and said they could deliver immediately. My first pin and I’m loving it.
Two issues though: Anyone have a problem with their bottom pop bumper not firing when hit from the top? The second photo shows an extremely common occurrence in my games. It fires if hit hard or from any other angle but not slow/med from the top.
Also any way to fix the nearly 100% drain rate for every slow ball that rolls down the domino lane?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Saw others mentioned the pitch of the game, definitely check that. Also check the switch gap on that pop bumper. Getting it nice and sensitive will help the ball bounce right out of there.
Quoted from pch3727:Where does everyone order the “Cliffy” protectors from? I’m getting the Deadpool Pro in the next week and sound like I need to get a set.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/
Find all the stuff you want then shoot Cliff an email. He will invoice you.
Quoted from attyrhodes:Thinking about turning the Ninja physical ball lock off so the game is more flowy on a Pro. Anyone else do this? Is this heresy?
I have played on location with that setting. I guess you could say it increases flow, but I don't like it. The physical lock is a good feature. It drops the balls down the katana nicely to give you a nice paced chance at shooting a few shots.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Interesting issue on my DP. Noticed the game was starting up with all X targets lit and racking up weapons QUICK. Went into switch test and noticed the colossus inner loop rollover is triggering three to four other switches. I hit another switch, it stops. Hit Colossus, switches lock on again.
I cut the switch out completely and now there is no problem. I cleaned it up checked it out and it looked good. Soldered back in making sure I had a strong ground connection and…it’s locking on all the other switches again.
Has anyne ever had a switch go bad and just make the game go haywire? Will a new switch fix this? Or should I be looking for a compromised ground wire in the chain?
Any help / insights are appreciated
Maybe swap it with another switch not having an issue to see if the problem moves around the game.
Quoted from bigguybbr:Are you powering it on with the coin door open?
This is a common deal on spike 2 games that have the coin door switch. The other thing to check if that is not it is the RJ45 (ethernet 8 pin looking) connector from the main board in the back box, down to the node boards.
Quoted from Soulstoner:Found this guy rattling around after delivery. Any idea how to reattach? I can’t seem to figure it out.
Location is the backboard lighting.[quoted image]
Probably not going to easily repair a broken bayonet lamp socket. It's a replace situation. Or just leave it as is. It's one gi bulb.
Quoted from wolffcub:I just found out today if you plunge around the orbit, catch it on the left flipper and quickly make a Snikt shot you are awarded 15m
My favorite is the MXV skill shot. Plunge all the way around, hit the right orbit, then hit the katana ramp shot.
Quoted from Rizmo:Does anyone here have the Pinmonk light covers? Where they are actual colors and not just the white light? What do you think of them? Are they worth it?
I had them in Avengers and really liked the effect. He does a nice job on his stuff.
Quoted from Jobuko:Hey all, I just got back home from the Southern Fried Gaming Expo and set up my Deadpool Premium. It powers on and plays nice, but when I opened the coin door to adjust the volume I get:
48v disabled close coin door or pull interlock switch to restore power
I have scoured the internet and forums and all I get are people complaining about removal of interlock switches back in 2016....WTH do I have to do in order to adjust the volume? Or access the menu? Am I missing something simple? I am frustrated that for 9k you can't simply adjust the volume without help. Where is the interlock switch I need to pull?
You should be able to get into the menus just fine with the 48v message. That interlock switch is there to kill that voltage at the coils so you don't get shocked. There have been a few reports of late run games with problems on their service menu switches. If they aren't working at all, try reseating connectors. If that doesn't work, get in touch with your dealer to get the parts sourced.
Also, I played your game, it played pretty great!
Quoted from ticktockman:The only shot I don’t like in the game is the Colossus shot. It’s so tight and it’s partially obscured from view, making it difficult to know if I even made it.
Does anyone know why they didn’t make it a loop AROUND the Hellhouse scoop instead of to the left of it?
Geometry? That shot is tough, but awesome. If you hit it right and get the exit to the target its worth a ton.
Quoted from bigguybbr:They are only manufactured in blue. Maybe that’s why PL calls them “Blue Nubs of Death”
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-bnod-blue-nubs-of-death.html
I think with how thin they are, it would be a challenge to make them out of silicone without them shredding very quickly. The blue rubber might be more durable than red or black rubber (there is a difference)
That said, JP home pin uses a thicker black nub rather than the thin blue one.
They have popped up in production games in black as well. I have not seen black for sale, but its also not something I go out looking for all that often. Stern uses what they can source to push out games most likely.
Quoted from Jamesays:Im getting the ball stuck behind the wolverine spinner often ,I dont see a key post or anything similar in the thread.Im at 6.8 so it shouldnt be my slope.any ideas ? Thanks
Check for any wires just barely hanging a bit too low back there.
Deadpool is the 1-15 September leaderboard game. I didn't notice, but now I will have to get some scores submitted. Anyone else in on that?
Quoted from PinballHaven:Hey gang, I'm having a node board reset problem........ball dropping into pops and then rapid pop firing is causing entire lower playfield to go dark and flippers die for a second and they come right back up, no full resets or anything like that. Roughly 1K plays, and it's been fine until now. I swapped node 8 & 9 and changed the jumper settings, reseated everything, and the problem persists which suggests an electrical short not a board issue I think. No visually loose connections or broken wires. My next step is to individually disconnect each node 8 CNx one by one and try to isolate the short, any other suggestions, or anyone had this issue? Appreciate any insight from the hive, thanks in advance!
If you swapped node boards and the problem area stayed in the same spot, then yes, I would say you are on the right path. It could be a current overload situation if you notice it during lots of coil firing.
Quoted from PinballHaven:I was able to stop the resets from happening by disconnecting node 8 CN12. From there I tried disconnecting each CN12 switch/opto individually but still it would still reset when the ball got into the pops. I also tried unhooking all the optos, and also all the switches, and still had resets. Calling stern tomorrow I guess. Brought the game home from location to dig in deeper.
You are on the right track. Is there anything else that runs off that connector other than switches? Maybe there is a wire somewhere shorting?
Prismatic Illusion Cherry on my Deadpool Pro. I also got the newer style side rails from Pinball Life. I finally got around to using the rivet kit I bought a while back. The pictures may not really show it, but it has metallic flake in it all over. Looks pretty nice.
PXL_20221013_021212302.jpgPXL_20221013_021226845.jpgPXL_20221013_021428444.jpg
Quoted from DudeRegular:I also got the newer style side rails from Pinball Life.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
https://www.pinballlife.com/black-triangular-button-guard-side-rails-for-stern.html
Quoted from glpinball:Several posts over in mmr thread discussing this very thing. I get the impression that individual shakers can vary based on how the weights are aligned. You can move the weights with some effort (drilling) to make the shaker less intense.
On my mmr and iron man the shakers are jack hammers but Deadpool is not so I feel like this may be true.
You should not have to drill. They should have a set screw. Loosen, align, tighten until you get the desired effect.
Gomez has stated that they are intended to be a little bit lower on purpose. A big part of it is hitting the dead and pool targets. Side shots are tough if the flippers are too high.
Quoted from MrBubbles:I think I only have about 100 plays so I don't think it's a worn out issue. The nut that I've been tightening is an allen wrench setup. I think I might break the little allen wrench if I try to tighten any more. I'll give it a shot though. Thanks for the quick replay
Could be the coil stop.
Quoted from jackd104:Been playing Deadpool on location and I may be falling in love. I find myself scheming on various ways to acquire one. I’ve heard Stern may be making more. I would consider a used one in great condition too.
For space and money reasons I really should sell one or two. I really like premium over pro when I can manage it, as a general rule. So upon consulting with family they would be willing to let TSPP and/or TZ go. TSPP is a (real) HUO, almost perfect, and TZ is a very nice player’s condition.
Check out my collection and I’d love to hear opinions on this shake up I am considering!
Its the longest tenured game at my house, though I may finally be getting ready to list mine. Its probably my favorite game of all time. I tend to go with the idea that I can typically get a game back again. I have in fact a few times. I would rate it higher that Simpsons and TZ quite a bit.
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