Finally joined the club a few weeks ago! Little did I realize I was doing so just in time to be locked inside the house indefinitely.

Out of the box I had an annoying issue where node 8 would randomly kick into overcurrent protection and turn off all the lower GI lights. After doing some Pinside sleuthing I figured out that the likely culprit was a flaky bulb, and my distributor fixed me right up with a replacement set. Big thumbs up for Zach at Flip N Out!

IMG_20200220_123710 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200220_190955 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200222_113004 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200222_125734 (resized).jpg

No, the only accessory I've added so far is the Stern headphone jack. I'm thinking a shaker might be a bit much for my "game room" (aka the corner of my living room).

I wish I'd seen this yesterday when I had my playfield up to swap out the rest of the GI bulbs with Comet's, I'd have taken a look. My build date is 2/12/20 and my Snikt target hasn't budged so far.

Used some of today's self-isolation time to finish up my Comet GI upgrade. I only installed two of the four provided spotlights to brighten up the center of the playfield. I know it's been posted before, but this is a must-have upgrade in my opinion.

Before and after:

IMG_20200229_211328 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200328_185542 (resized).jpg

The kit swaps out all of the red and clear white GI bulbs with frosted sunlights, and includes 4 spotlights that mount on the slings. Even without the spots, getting rid of the red & clear whites made a huge difference.

Sure thing:

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/deadpool-general-illumination-upgrade-kit

Yep, pretty simple. First you replace the upper GI bulb under the slingshot with one that includes a power lead for the spotlight(s). Then you replace the upper lock nut with a standoff, mount the spotlight, connect up the power and route/ziptie the wire. If you're using all 4 there are extra standoffs to double up the height and splitter cables to power everything, but I think it looks great with a single pair of spotlights.

IMG_20200328_150711 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200328_152135 (resized).jpg

Wait, you're getting airballs from the left sling all the way into the shooter lane? That seems... wrong.

So yesterday was another Pandemic Sunday. I installed Cliffy's protectors at my 3-bank and at the katana entrance. I could already see damage starting to form at the katana entrance after a very low number of plays.

While I was in there I confirmed that Stern appears to be using the anti-sway style target brackets on newer builds. In other words, don't buy a replacement bracket for your Snikt target before taking delivery of your machine like I did. Here's a pic of my factory Colossus target, because apparently I was confused when taking the photo:

IMG_20200412_124207 (resized).jpg

Mine's Feb 12, 2020.

He's referring to installing Comet's upgrade kit, which includes everything you need: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/deadpool-general-illumination-upgrade-kit

I recently did the same (you can see my before & after pics a few pages back), and it makes a massive difference. In my opinion swapping out the red & clear white GI bulbs is just as or more important than the spotlights.

I have my trough eject power set to the minimum value and it works just fine. It's crazy how hard balls smack into the shooter lane by default. That plus some mylar has kept it looking spiffy.

Any alerts in the service menu? Both of those buttons are connected to node 1 in the cabinet, so that would be my first stop to check and see if anything got loosened while you were installing the lighted flipper buttons.

Yep. Set aside a couple hours.

I had the same issue and thought I was going crazy. Contact Comet, they had a batch of spotlights with the wrong size bracket. They got replacements to me very fast.

Page 35 in the Pro manual, part # 511-7877-00.

That's the right half of the shooter lane protector.

(Note: Cliffy's pic, not mine. In my experience some mylar and turning down the trough eject power has been plenty of protection for that area.)

DP-ejects (resized).jpg

That video's a bit much, in my opinion. The heavy wear area is at the bottom, near the trough eject. Mylar there, regularly clean and wax the rest.

Oh I agree, it's a great demonstration of how to apply it. I wasn't thinking of saving money, more of saving the pain and heartache associated with laying down so much mylar.

I'm pretty sure I remember seeing extra Wolverine ones in the goodie bag. Not sure about Dazzler, but isn't that just the generic glittery decal that's been used on multiple machines?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-8422-SP

Has anyone else noticed their katana Cliffy shift position with play? Mine is a tad lower than where I originally installed it.

I went back in and loosened the guide to check it, and it's good and stuck in its current position. If I shove a ball against the blue nub I still have clearance, so I guess it should be okay? I'm thinking it may just be more noticeable because the "no artwork" area at the top of the Cliffy is much larger on my playfield than it is on older builds.

IMG_20200509_181545 (resized).jpg

It's quite dark in the middle of the playfield, due in large part to Stern's decision to use red GI bulbs. I posted a before and after of how it looks with Comet's Deadpool GI upgrade here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/116#post-5560084

I installed my PinMonk quiet fan kit this morning, and it easily takes the #2 spot on my list of must-have Deadpool mods (#1 is still Comet's GI upgrade kit). The stock power supply fan is downright obnoxious in a home environment.

Do any of the playfield lights go out when this happens? Mine had an issue when it was new where the flippers would die momentarily and the lower GI lights went out until the machine was rebooted. Turned out to be a flaky GI bulb - never had the problem again after I swapped out the GI bulbs with Comet's upgrade kit.

I'd check all the connections to the node boards under the playfield to make sure nothing's loose, but for me the ultimate solution was swapping out the GI bulbs with Comet's kit:

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/deadpool-general-illumination-upgrade-kit

I'd highly recommend that kit regardless - you'll be amazed how much better the playfield looks when the GI is, you know, illuminating it. Whoever at Stern thought it was a good idea to use red bulbs in the GI needs a good smack.

My inexpert opinion is that the red GI bulbs are somehow more prone to causing this issue. When I was trying to figure out what was going on I found posts by Black Knight Sword of Rage (Pro) owners having the same symptoms, but with the upper GI (where the red bulbs are on that game).

Edit: Forgot to mention that the maintenance menu showed Node 8 overcurrent when mine was doing this, so checking for that error might tell you for sure if you're having the same issue.

I posted a before and after here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/116#post-5560084

There's a reason red lights are used in photography dark rooms.

Absolutely worth it. It's a simple, 15-minute install, and voila! No more hairdryer.

It sounds a little intimidating, but if you've ever done anything like install components in a desktop PC it's not a big deal at all.

There's an opto in that hole that detects when a ball is locked in there.

opto (resized).jpg

I'm pretty sure it's just a plain old opto with receiver, but not exactly sure how it's mounted.

Haha, I actually saved one side of the box to do the same thing. Great minds. What size frame is that?

Wait, is that freshly unboxed with no red bulbs in the GI? Did Stern figure out that red light doesn't illuminate?

Oh you're right, I see red in the second pic. He must have swapped them out before the family portrait to make sure everyone was looking their best (including Deadpool).

Vireland has already put you on track to fix this, but just wanted to chime in to say I had the same issue with mine. I fixed it by installing Comet's kit (which replaces all the factory GI), so in my case it was a bad bulb.

The Comet kit is a full GI swap.

For me the must-haves are Comet's GI kit:

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/deadpool-general-illumination-upgrade-kit

And Pinmonk's quiet fan kit:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/02140-500w-spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit

How much does the Hellhouse mod obscure the view of the katana ramp from the player's perspective? I like how it makes the scoop look like more than just a scoop, but wouldn't want to hide the coolest shot in the game.

Yeah, this game is a masterpiece. Trying to shoehorn movie quotes into it would be like those news stories you see when people try to "restore" classic artwork.

botched (resized).jpg

This is likely either a) a faulty bulb (I have a theory that the red bulbs are more prone to this) or b) something has fallen into one of the lamp sockets and is causing a short. I had the exact same issue and swapping out the GI bulbs with Comet's upgrade kit was the solution.

Awesome, glad you found it. Would be more awesome if they soldered more carefully.

Has anyone had any issues with the lock post in their katana?

What's suddenly started happening with mine is that the up position isn't as high as it should be, allowing the balls to hop over it instead of locking. When the coil fires it lowers the post, but when released again it only raises back to the lower position (probably half as high as it should be).

I'm going to take a look under the playfield to see what's going on when I get a chance, but I could have sworn I'd seen this issue pop up before and I'm not finding it by searching.

I'm troubleshooting an issue with my katana lock post, and it turns out the problem is that the spring has worked its way halfway above the e-ring. Judging from the manual it looks like there should be a nylon washer in between the spring and the e-ring that I appear to be missing. Could anyone possibly verify, and is that a size I should be able to pick up at a hardware store? Thanks!

PXL_20210918_143403185 (resized).jpg

Thanks, I'll add that to my stash.

I didn't find any evidence of a broken washer in the cabinet, so I'm pretty sure it was never installed at the factory and it just worked until it didn't. Eventually the end of the spring found the gap in the e-clip and worked its way up until the at-rest position of the post wasn't high enough to stop the balls.

While I was under there I finally swapped out the bracket on my snikt target (Stern installed the anti-sway one on the Colossus target instead), so fingers crossed that I've corrected all the factory screw-ups at this point.

I really need to change this setting, I've become way too dependent on restarting after a crappy first ball.

Hahahaha WHAT?! Are you running custom code with the songs replaced or something?

(Not sure why you'd ever do that, the stock music is fantastic.)

Mystery solved! I think your machine must have this music replacement code installed: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-music-replacement-mod-

Do your whole family a favor and take it back to stock. The stock code is a masterpiece, and it really doesn't get any more "adult" than some "balls" innuendos and maybe an "ass" or two.

Take a look at the lock post assembly under the playfield and make sure everything looks as it should. I recently had problems with mine and found out that Stern skipped a washer that needs to be in there in order for the post to reliably return to the up position.

This link shows mine in the "problem" state. There should be a nylon washer in between the top of the spring and the e-clip. Once I added that it worked perfectly.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/211#post-6505153

And here's a link to the manual; page 44 shows the lock down post assembly. The washer mine was missing is #9, but I'd just make sure all the parts shown match up to yours and that nothing is loose.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Deadpool_Pro_web.pdf

Awesome, glad it's working! Don't be too worried if you do end up having to take it apart -- it's a very simple mechanism and it connects with a molex, so it's easy to take off and work on away from the machine.

Most likely. I'd suggest picking up a cheap digital level. I used a phone app at first and it was way off.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R12DZQ9/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_0QW4HBXB5QKHXDJVMYJH

Try bumping it up to 7, that's the pitch Gomez recommended. I think my bubble's touching the top line.

I have it on mine. I don't use the headphone jack as much as I thought I would (let's face it, pinball machines are LOUD even without the game audio), but I use the volume knob all the time. I really like having an easy volume adjustment right there.

Mine came from the factory with an antisway bracket on the Colossus target, but not on the Snikt.

The first thing I'd check is your pitch - those rear leg levelers look way too low to me. Deadpool is designed for 7 degrees.

Check the mechanism under the playfield. Mine was missing a washer, which allowed the spring to work its way up and caused the post to rest too low.

Edit: Here's a pic of what happened with mine (there should be a nylon washer between the spring and the e-clip):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/211#post-6505153

Mine's interactive.

PXL_20210810_204825291.MP_2 (resized).jpg

That seems odd, the kit is supposed to be all frosted sunlight. I'd send Comet an email and see what's up; they're very responsive.

This is fairly common and is often due to 1. something having fallen into a lamp socket, which is causing a short when vibrated just right or 2. a bad bulb. For me, the solution was to install Comet's GI upgrade kit, which swaps out all of the GI bulbs. I've seen people have the same issue in other games with red GI bulbs, which makes me think that Stern got a bad batch of red bulbs. Bonus, if you install this you get rid of that horrible red GI that doesn't, you know, illuminate anything.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/deadpool-general-illumination-upgrade-kit?variant=12493737132076

Not sure about iPhone, but I found that level apps on Android were pretty inaccurate compared to a real digital level. For comparison, my bubble is touching the top line at the intended pitch.

Hmm, the assembly looks correct to me. And you're right, there is no adjustment -- the spring has the e-ring pushed up against the bracket, just like it's supposed to. Is it possible that the down-post itself is the wrong one (i.e., not as long as it's supposed to be)? Or maybe there's something physically preventing it from extending all the way when it's installed in the game?

Mine was missing the nylon washer that goes between the spring and the e-ring (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/211#post-6505153).

Others recently have had the wrong post installed at the factory (too short).

Another possibility is that the post is binding against something (maybe rubbing the edge of the hole through the playfield).

Or spend 5 bucks on one of these, as others have suggested: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3

I think they're supposed to, but the pics he posted aren't an anti-sway bracket. Mine came with one installed on the Colossal Jackpot target instead of on the Snikt, so his could've ended up who knows where.

Nope, the anti-sway bracket has a slot and a tab that fits into it.

anti-sway (resized).png

Correct, you can just move the target itself onto the new bracket and reinstall. It's just a couple screws and a sticky pad.