Not an owner, but on my short list. Took down my local DP rival's grand champ score last night in a game where I got to (and beat) Megakrakolodonus Rex for the first time.

I know it's been discussed, but I do think they need to change/alter how the playfield multiplier works. I had the perma 2x from 100 weapons by the end of this game, but so much of this score was due to having a few nicely timed Snikt! shots combined with a few others that were just pure luck/chance.

It's annoying to me that having more or less the exact same game minus 3-4 shots off a standup that bounced right and went up a ramp would result in a score maybe 1/3 as big.
dp (resized).jpg

I keep alternating between liking it the way it is, and wishing that if not easier, that there were other means of raising the playfield multiplier.

Maybe adding something similar to collecting 100 weapons. Collect 50 cihimis, or drop 20 sets of drops, etc. Somthing like that. Of course you'd run the risk of having players reach all of the goals around the same time and suddenly getting multiple permanent additional playfield multipliers.

No big deal either way. Heck of a fun game. Was just glad to finally crack 2B.

Huh? Was under the impression that any teamup benefits were automatically active when entering a battle.

Went looking further, and a software engineer from Stern says that the teamup benefits are active regardless of hitting it's related shot again once you're in a battle.

Screenshot (resized).png

Hitting boom it likely triggering an active teamup's shot since it's got a decent chance of being the highest value shot at the time you hit the button.

Ahhh, thought you were saying (using Dazzler as an example) that if you qualified Dazzler and then started a mode, that you wouldn't get additional health for the battle unless you hit the Dazzler shot again during said battle.

Adjusting the leaf switch will definitely make it more sensitive, but if you're finding that it's more sensitive from one direction over another, it might just need a little adjustment to the spoon for that given pop.

It's a trivial adjustment.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-486010

A technique I carry over into game of Black Knight like a complete idiot roughly 50% of the time.

Preliminarily joining the club. Deposit on a premium sent off, and a long wait till April/May begins.

Have read lots of things in this thread over the last few months as I honed in on making the decision. Intending to order a few things ahead of time and would like to make sure I'll have what I need, and know what adjustments I can expect to have to make.

Not counting any sort of mods - just "do this to protect your machine" type things.

1 - At the very least a cliffy for the entrance to the katana ramp though I'll probably do a whole set.
2 - May have to bend the guides slightly outward at the exit of the katana ramp.
3 - Anti sway bracket for the Snikt shot though it appears newer builds have this straight from Stern?

That about cover it?

Thanks for the reminder. I remember seeing some posts about adding washers as well. Can't hurt, and I have some on hand.

In reference to these posts:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/6#post-4580338
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/169#post-6114580
But yeah - case by case. More of a "be prepared to do this if the need arises" thing.

I probably will, but didn't really want to just post about mods mods mods mods mods. Honestly not a big mod guy, but have seen plenty of pics of the comet kit in action and it's a pretty clear improvement.

Back with more questions because what else am I going to do when waiting two+ horrible months.

Question about Comet's Deadpool kit: Does the kit include bulbs to swap out all of the GI in the machine? Photos seems to only focus down low where the questionable reds are located. Not a fan of cool whites (which I assume come stock) so I'd want to buy extras to swap them all out if there's not already enough in the kit.

Regarding adding powered mods such as the extra spots, trough lighting, flipper buttons, etc. Is there a point where you need to worry about power draw? I assume most of these will just be alligator clipped onto the nearest GI sockets?

Impatiently attempting to pass the time between ordering a NIB and having it come in... (Seriously - this is the worst. Kids in mid December are more patient than me right now.)

Reading tons of threads as per usual. Came across a post in someone's "I just got a DP - what should I do first?" thread and saw a post about the usual Katana ramp issue. But they also mentioned putting washers under the left ramp. That was new to me, but this picture was included.

27e8644860a3e268a28881a76dc5fb9a018eb895 (resized).jpg

I could have missed it since there's so many, but I couldn't find a single mention of this possibility in this thread. Anyone ever see something like this? Seems confusing at first, but I assume it's from repeated ramp shots pushing it ever so slightly to the left?

Thread/post in question if you're curious:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-have-a-nib-deadpool-and-some-maintenance-questions#post-5994826

Definitely. Just weird that that photo shows clear damage and I've not heard of or seen any mention of it before.

Don't know the ramp mechanism well enough to know if washers under the ramp as that poster said is even possible, or if a little mylar would be wise.

That might be it. I was thinking shots from the right flipper hitting the left wall of the ramp enough times might be jolting things enough to cause scraping, but maybe it was the missing blue rubber and too many shots directly that that edge.

Probably shouldn't worry about it since I've never seen any other person mention damage there, but I think I'm just going to be paranoid about any narrow metal edge laying flush with the playfield.

My wife is going to be so confused when I tear the game apart before playing it.

When I first checked with a few distros I was told late April / May.

When I put a deposit down, Chris from King Pin said he had received an email from Stern on 2/1 that said April, though he made a point of stressing "Please don't assume that means it will be ready April 1st"

Related question, but do the cassettes come with the premiums still?

Well, it's not like I have a tape deck anymore anyway. But I do go see Brian Posehn perform whenever I can and it would be a pretty cool little thing to get autographed given the chance.

Well if you're not set on NIB and won't eat a deposit - this hit the market today.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/110862

Otherwise - go through the stickied posts. They contain more or less all you need to know.

What did you find? Something other than the Lil Deadpool Frenzy issue?

It's on my day one before I play a game list of things to do. Between cliffys, katana ramp entrance fix, plastic protectors, comet light kit etc etc - may as well.

pinbuoy's images make it a no brainer to me:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/144#post-5859836

April is what I was told, with an adamant emphasis on "April doesn't mean April 1st." I'm jealous as Hell of anyone expecting a March delivery.

Sorry for any confusion - I was referring to premiums.

Chris at kingpin said his latest info from Stern for premiums was April. This was on Feb 2nd or so in an email he had just received.

Read the first few posts that come up in a thread search for "side armor"
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all?tq=side+armor&tu=

May want to reconsider. For that same (or thereabouts) money - head over to Robert's powdercoating thread and go nuts.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/88#post-5265852
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/94#post-5319363
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/109#post-5449130
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/50#post-5948012

Some in blue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/89#post-5278290
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/52#post-6092853

Fully prepared and planning to fix the katana ramp (as well as near the Wolverine spinner, left ramp etc.) myself, but kinda pathetic that they're doing another run and still haven't addressed the issues.

Can anyone with a new pro check to see if they've put the anti-sway bracket on the Snikt target? Things seemed a bit inconclusive the last time I checked posts for that.

The answer: (no)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/92#post-5300308

The fix:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3

Edit - looking at your picture closer - doesn't seem bad to me at all.

I really only know what's in that post, but that's from the mouth of George Gomez, so I assume it's right. It should prevent you from hitting the rail directly, but not be in contact with it.

Back to your earlier post though - I think you're understanding it, but hitting the snikt target alone doesn't register the playfield multipliers. You need to hit it and have the ball bounce off and up the ramp, triggering a 2nd switch/opto. Basically hitting them both in rapid succession.

PS - Welcome to pinball ownership.... Ain't it grand?

The last few I've seen here were basically stock or stock + shaker and went in the $72/7300 range pretty quickly if memory serves. Got tired of waiting for something within driving distance in no time and ordered NIB as well. Seems the days of losing $1k opening the box over for now.

***There was a really nice used prem in San Antonio about 6(?) months ago for an inexplicable $6450, but it seemed to be a crazy outlier.

Awesome.

This 110%. Get yourself a soldering iron, a set of nut drivers and a willingness to dive in. It's oddly satisfying to fix issues as they crop up, and bringing a non working machine back to life even moreso.

When I got my first machine I bought the cheapest (or thereabouts) soldering iron I could find at Menards. I made do with it for a few years cause I didn't really solder that often and just talked myself out of buying something nicer.

Bought and more or less top to bottom shopped out a Jacks Open last year and while doing it, finally spent the $100 or on a decent Hakko temp controlled iron. I really wish I hadn't waited. It's a night and day difference and 100% worth the extra money.

An ominous post from the Star Wars thread for those of us awaiting DP Premiums.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-star-wars-clubmay-the-force-be-with-you/page/211#post-6207047

No idea where this leaves DP premiums on the schedule. I know "April" didn't mean April 1st, but that makes it sound a ways off.

I'm currently sitting on some mylar, nylon washers, metal washers and some silicon rings from PBL that I can cut down if needed. I have no idea what I'm going to end up doing when the time comes.

Oh fully intending to do all three. Just not sure what I'll actually end up putting down. Don't mind taking things apart at all.

Have pretty much resigned myself to pulling armor and sending it off for powder coating on day one - will have plenty of time to do preventative things while waiting.

Basically the same for me. When I first started asking around, I was told April, and April/May. When I ordered in early Feb, the distro (KingPin) had received an email from Stern that day stating April. He immediately stressed "That does NOT mean April 1st!" I've mentally expected late April all along. That email from Stern though makes me assume that that's probably not happening though. The wait sucks, but what the Hell. I now have a closet full of things to install / add to it when it finally gets here.

Endlessly jealous of the people that got their pros though.

I have a set of Flipper Fidelity pro/prem -> LE upgrade speakers sitting in my closet amongst the pile of things ready to go. Have read varying things about just how much better they'll sound vs. stock speakers, but what the Hell. Part of the previously mentioned side effect of ordering a machine and having nothing else to do for 2+ months while waiting for it.

Would contemplate adding a pinwoofer amp to it since I know that that's where the real improvement in sound lies, but I'm not even sure if I could at this point. Also within the pile is a pinnovators headphone kit which plugs into the same jack on the same node board that a pinwoofer amp would use. It's a question for another day. This is all ignoring the fact that I live in an apartment anyway and have neighborly courtesy issues to consider. I don't even have the chimes on my Jacks Open hooked up right now since I'm trying to be nice. Side note - playing an EM with just the sound of pops, drops and score reels clicking away is really an odd thing. Very mechanical.

Impatiently passing the time waiting for my premium, so I made some coin reject inserts. If anyone's interested - PM me an email address and I'll send a PDF that you can print.

cr1 (resized).jpg

cr2 (resized).jpg

Email from distro: DP Prem left the factory yesterday, should be on hand at distro tomorrow.

fbc42067-aafd-4fac-a696-1894842fb332-featured-c22fc5326df12122a3280d122ab1fd72 (resized).jpg

Delivery for my prem set for tomorrow. Or as I like to call it - that day where I pretended to work as much as normal and got even less done than you could ever imagine.

Sometimes you slip $20 to a bouncer to get into a club.

Today I slipped $20 to a burly 20-something year old delivery driver instead. Curb side? Nahhh. Bring that thing in here please.

Club member status : Complete
IMG_8148 (resized).JPG

It was kinda spur of the moment, since I had a friend on the way over to help me, but what the Hell. Young kid with way better hand truck and younger back vs. two middle aged guys? Easy choice. Realized later that I probably would have tipped him out of habit anyway, so what the Hell.

A little tinkering later....
IMG_8149 (resized).JPG

And since that window makes me more paranoid than a first time parent AND I'm supposed to be working today....
It's actual current condition.
IMG_8150 (resized).JPG

Window has a blind, but I work from home and having the living room be dark all the time won't fly too well with the wife.
Other two machines are old wedgeheads and I'm not 1% as concerned with fade on them. A cover for the DP in the meantime until we have a house with a proper dark basement or game room is an easy enough fix.

It's the pinskin one they sell on Marcos. Literally just opened it and put it on today, so not much to review.

Of course they're out right now.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-PC-ES

But quality seems decent enough. Nice heavyish weight to the fabric. Little disc magnets that hold things in place. It's two parts - the base and the head. The bottom part is open in the back. The head piece covers all four sides. There's a strip of velcro along the front bottom of the head cover that will attach it to the base.

Top of my head concern - it's probably not going to be quick and easy to get it on/off since I have my machines in a row, but oh well. Stop gap like I said.

Edit - 4/22 build date. Has the notch cut out of the rail as well, though I'm 99% surely going to raise the rail regardless and install my cliffys.

If anyone was wondering about the following scenario: You get your first NIB machine on a Friday and manage to throw out your back while setting it up with a friend.

The answer to the question "How long will it take for you to install all your mods, plastic protectors, cliffys, titans, comet bulbs etc etc while trying not to cry every other time you move suddenly?" is "You will be finally finished Tuesday night."

Ha ha ha. Being middle aged is a blast. Oh, I see that you moved suddenly in some imperceivably wrong way. Time to die.

Spent a load of time waiting for my premium thinking about / looking up powder coating options.

Posted these before, but:
Some in red:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/88#post-5265852
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/94#post-5319363
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/109#post-5449130
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/50#post-5948012

Some in blue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/89#post-5278290
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/52#post-6092853

Not really a fan of the red on the premium. Have thought I'd go blue this whole time, but now that the machine is here, I'm not so sure.

I swapped the T-molding for blue, and as a part of upgrading to 5.25" speakers etc - put in blue rings.
184128616_841805773101191_1206654780993701207_n (resized).jpg
The odd thing is - it looks great as is. A nice accent to all the blues in the side art. But it's almost immediately clear to me that getting all the armor powder coated blue isn't going to look right to me. I like the ones done in blue above, but it's just a bit too much in some way. I think that it's just a bit much to have all that blue armor, and then while the playfield is color as can be - red really is a dominate color of sorts.

The unexpected probable solution? I think I'm actually just going to get my armor done in a nice glossy black, with some metallic flake. Possibly a blue, but maybe red since that really is more of a Deadpool color. Like clothes - black just goes with pretty much everything. (And lol - when it comes time to sell and you don't want to take a beating on not recouping mod expenses? Swap it to another machine. It's Black! It will look good!)

edit: another photo of one done in blue that I had found. This actually highlights why I think I'm not going with blue pretty well. I think the speaker panel is overkill, and I don't think the blue apron works that great. (All due respect to whoever owns the game, etc etc. Just my opinion and all.)
15 (resized).jpeg

A friend suggested maybe a really dark blue. Could look good, but considering the expense I'm not sure I want to take any chances. May be a few weeks before I make a final decision and send things off. Gotta play the Hell out of it in the meantime you know. Will surely post pics when things are said and done.

I think I've only ever seen pros done in red. Works on the pro WAY better than the premium, I think.

Oh. Forgot about these. Steve at pinball refinery sent a couple pics of a premium done in purple. Not my cup of tea, but looks decent to me.

af963613eddfd34cd828c5b2cd472d8e837cc3ce (resized).jpg
5e0483b70b20527437199e55824e3848fa64ff36 (resized).jpg

Change of topic....

Is there any ball save timer for hellhouse ejects? Not seeing it anywhere in the adjustments or DP specific menus. Lots of others, but not for the hellhouse.

Every now and then, it's just laughing at me as it ejects SDTM. And you'd better believe it happens exclusively when I'm having a good game going. Even a 1-2 second courtesy ball save would be wonderful.

Everything locked down tight, and scoop protector replaced with a cliffy before ball one was even played.

It's exceedingly rare - once every few hundred (if not more) ejects. Just horribly frustrating, as it never happens first thing on ball one. It's always when you want it to happen the least. Riding 2 dangers late into a kick ass ball.

Could probably adjust things to ensure it never happens, but thought I'd verify that there's not a ball save timer adjustment before bothering. For something that happens rarely and at random - it's really frustrating.

Thanks for the suggestions. Nothing off with the welds, or scoop protector or anything like that it appears.

Scoop function is simple enough. Ball goes in scoop, microswitch gets pressed in, moment later coil fires and nylon plunger shoots ball out. Tested things manually and mine fires the ball to the right flipper roughly 2/3 of the way up the flipper. Over and over - consistent as can be.

BUT

InkedIMG_8217_LI (resized).jpg

Due to the orientation of the scoop and the slope of the playfield (I'm in the 7 degree camp for what it's worth) - the corner circled in blue sits a little lower than the rest of the scoop. Every once in a while, I put the ball in and it would actually settle into that corner and not the circular opening. Switch still pressed in and the coil fires, but now the plunger doesn't hit the ball square. I could slowly lower the ball into that corner to force this to happen, but the resulting eject would then pretty consistently end up hitting the right lane guide an inch or two above the flipper.

What I assume is happening on those rare SDTM ejects is that the ball rattles in the scoop just long enough to trigger the switch, but not settle into the circular opening before the coil fires. End result - some randomness to the path of the eject, and eventually (Again - ONLY WHEN YOU'RE KICKING ASS) - the numbers bite you in the ass. Basically - the pinball Gods are fickle and it's all just a part of the game.

It's weird, but even just looking at it for a bit and convincing myself of WHY it's happening has made it way less annoying. (He says until the next time it happens at the wrong time.)

Thinking about it further though - most shots to the scoop aren't kicked back out immediately. You either need to choose a battle, wait for a mystery award, collect weapons, etc - giving the ball time to settle in before being kicked out. Whether it comes to rest in the circle or manages to cling to that corner - the ejects are really consistent for me. Mid right flipper, or a bit higher up onto the lane guide.

If I'm right about what causes it - it's really just a perfect storm for the SDTM kickout. Nothing else going on in the game so the ball is ejected fast + rattled shot that takes a moment too long to come to rest + coil plunger happens to hit it just right as it's settling in. Not a whole lot to be done other than being ready if you see the ball rattling a bit when it goes in the scoop. None of the scoop lights lit and it's a rattler? Be ready to shove.

Lil' DP multiball question....

Seeing some behavior that I don't remember seeing previously, though I could be dead wrong.

Start of the game - hit a few lil' deadpool targets to drop them. Once at least one is dropped, the large circular insert flashes it's bluishgreen color. Hitting the Lil' DP standup turns the light green. Hitting it a second time traps up the ball and Lil' DP MB starts.

Have had the following happen a few times though. Say you drop the left and center drop. Insert starts flashing. Ball then hits the Lil' DP target and turns it green, but the ball comes to rest behind the right drop that is still up. Also covering the opto.

I would swear the game would normally just cycle the drops at this time to eject the ball - like the first two times in this video.

But mine is now just starting Lil' DP MB without ever hitting the stand up a second time - the third time through on the video. Any game adjustments with regards to Lil' DP settings are stock - haven't touched any of them since setting the game up when it arrived.

Am I absolutely misremembering? Anyone care to test this out? I'm getting Lil' DP multiballs basically auto starting on me before I want them to and it's getting annoying.

Comforting response since it points at it being normal, but that's annoying. The game clearly has the ability to clear it out of there without starting the MB.

Moral of the story I guess is if you care about taking LDMB into a battle - make sure you're dropping that right target.

Similar question: Assuming a more or less 7 degree angle - what sling and flipper power settings are people using?

I decided a while back that trying to sum up a game's rules in a single card was fruitless. Went with this instead.

Untitled-1 (resized).jpg

This. They're both great. If you have the extra cash - go for it. If not - don't worry about it too much.

If you're looking NIB - finding a premium is going to be way harder to do. Not run again until late in the year I believe.

Just the GI. I went with whatever the lowest setting was at first, thinking COOL DISCO LIGHTS ONLY! Reached DMB at night with no other lights on in the room and it was nuts. Couldn't see a damn thing. Went with dim or whatever the lowest setting is other than off.

Same with the tilt bob as well though mine was basically touching when I installed the bob. Adjusted things as best I could without creating new screw holes, but then just had to bend the tilt ring a bit to make it something close to a uniform gap around the bob.

No. It was just pressing on the ring when I did install it. Which is what I assume Xelz meant as well.

Either the dangling part or the ring were bolted down a bit off at the factory.

I stand corrected. And mortified. Add in the cab damage and WTF. Did you actually unbox it with that delivery guy present? None of those things are normal at all.

Not sure why I'm repeatedly surprised when nearly every third party mod looks better than the official Stern stuff, but I still am.

Every option on that site looks 10x better than Sterns.

Another Amazon lighting gel orderer here. Barebones, just some painters tape and it worked as I had hoped. (May go back and double the green gel up to darken things.)

187972123_1331746907225955_2546143933603508622_n (resized).jpg

188096572_2970233849925988_2608580706435927352_n (resized).jpg

Hold both flippers in attract mode.

Been said, but at the very least Deadpool is an absolute slam dunk over Munsters.

Basically this. The pro is great. The premium is great+

If the extra wait and money don't bother you - go for it. I absolutely love looping the orbit shot on my premium and am glad I made the choice I did. (Though there was less of a difference in wait time to be honest.)

Is that the standard red or metallic?

I should have added in that post that I placed a tiny #8 or maybe #10 nylon washer between the lighting gel and the little LED board so that the led wasn't pressed right up against the gel. Don't think it would actually get hot enough to damage the gel or anything, but assume keeping it slightly separated would disperse the light a little better.

Side note regarding the metal rails causing damage with the clear - I should take some pics. Part of why I didn't play my machine for nearly 3 days after it arrived (Beyond going full middle aged and pulling something in my back) was that I disassembled every single rail on the machine and raised them up with nylon washers. Katana ramp, wolverine guide, left ramp, the rail along the back orbit.... all of them, at every post that goes into the playfield. Complete and total overkill, but I never have to worry about it again. Plus the process of taking things apart and putting them back together (I think) is good for you and gives you confidence on any future repairs.

Minor maintenance day yesterday. Doubled up the green gels on T-Rex and Sauron to make them a darker shade, added a Comet trough light strip, waxed the playfield (HOLY HELL ITS FAST), replaced all the balls, etc.

Also finally installed a few additional lights. Had previously added a socket under the hellhouse scoop and installed a Comet fire bulb, but the stock red 8(?) led bulb was drowning out the effect. Installed two of Comets fire star posts lights as well and then removed the stock red bulb entirely. Everything is basically clipped into the wires for the stock light so that the three fire bulbs light up when the stock light would have.

Worked about as well as I could have hoped. Not exactly the blazing pits of Hell, but kinda cool.

Doug's products are great and he's super responsive/helpful with any questions you have. Can't recommend him enough.

Man, I thought waiting from Feb to May was hard.... I do not envy anyone waiting for the next build.

Of course now I'm in the waiting for Robert Stone to finish my powdercoating club, but I'm excited to be in that one.

Did you just post this using Netscape on a Win98 machine?

I went nylon washers alone under all the rails and haven't seen any issues at all after 800+ plays. Rails still being held noticeably off the playfield, and the only issue hitting the katana ramp is constantly doing it on accident starting ninja multiball without a mode running.

There's not many things in life I'm more sure of than "I enjoy mechsuit multiball far more than the my neighbor in the next apartment over."

There’s a setting to reduce the backbox light while a game is being played if you’re not aware. May help with seeing the upper playfield a bit if you lower it. Definitely cuts down on the glare.

Can we just rename the thread "Deadpool - the pro is great, the premium is a little greater buy which one you can afford and have fun"?

Haven't received the armor back from Robert yet but this is mine - will post pics when I can.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/58#post-6428486

Posted about the decision before but didn't like the reds with the premium artwork and most of the blue ones I saw seemed a little overpowering to my eye. Went with a darker black base with a blue metallic flake. No idea how in the world it will look, but black goes with damn near everything so I think I'll be good.

This is what Smack is talking about. Pic taken from Robert Stone's powdercoating thread - he can coat the katana to mitigate the issue.
96c48b6198ae68fc95c073ca72e484cb5f6d606b (resized).jpg

I just went with the Comet kit myself - prefer the sunlight over Stern's stock cool(?) white, eliminates the questionable red GI, and comes with a total of 4 spots. I added all four on the tops of the slings and the center of the playfield is great. Then added a trough lighting strip as well just for even more. Still paid considerably less than what a set of pinstadiums would have run.

I like it in a way, but think I'd dislike it more often if I had stadiums. Moot point though.

Amen. Electrical tape or not - eventually those bastards will fly out. Been a few weeks since I've had it happen, but they sure as Hell have a knack for doing it at the wrong time. Have made a habit out of squeezing them into the sockets whenever I have the glass off.

The more common solution seems to be adding some dead drop foam near the existing rubber:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/31#post-4768788

Or on the side of the channel:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/94#post-5308165

alternatively:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/94#post-5312516

and while I can't find the post that gave me the idea - I added a post from a Comet spotlight kit and threw a post sleeve over it. Haven't ever had a single ball fly off the katana and it doesn't really effect the speed of the loop at all.
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If I were buying a set I have to imagine it would be easy enough to just print your own custom stickers, either at home or at a Kinkos assuming the cashier person isn't going to give a rip about any copyright issues. Would maybe be nice to have the originals on hand with their stickers in place should you ever need or want to swap them back out.

Left orbits. There's a countdown display in the upper left (I think) that will tell you how many you need to qualify/start a disco mode. LE and Premium - first Disco mode will be "Disco Loops", second will be "Disco Multiball." They'll alternate afterwards, taking more and more spins to start each time.

Oh. So my wife and I just watched the last episode of a little HBO documentary about a small town TV station in Pahrump, NV. It's called "Small Town News: KPVM Pahrump" not the greatest thing ever, but entertaining enough to watch if anyone's interested in short documentary shows.

Anyway - final episode includes some footage of them creating an ad for a local attorney. Can't find that exact clip online, but the commercial itself is on Youtube. Sitting next to my wife as she sat there confused - "Where the Hell have I heard that before?!?" was rather funny.

Someone hit the TORT button!

Most definitely. It's supposed to get directed up the ramp. Search the thread or check the key posts - there's tons of pics of how it's supposed to look, etc.

Agreed, and why I went in another direction entirely. Posted before but this is what Robert Stone did for me:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/58#post-6428486
Armor received and installed, but currently awaiting for the DBA plate to come back from Pinnovators. (They'll very graciously swap headphone kit components over to powdercoated parts free of charge.) Should finally have pics of another option for anyone considering colors.

The purple works way better that I would expect it to for what my dumb opinion is worth, but see above. I wanted a hint of blue due to the cabinet art, but basically went with a mostly black powder coat.

Shit would be a whole lot cheaper if premiums just came with powder coating like the Star Treks and AC/DCs did, damn it. Or if I wasn't such a fan of how it feels under my hands.

That's essentially what I've had done. The base is some sort of really dark blue I believe, but from most angles it looks entirely black. At the right angle or in brighter light - the blue flake becomes really obvious. Worked out pretty much as I had hoped.

Just got an email from pinnovators - DBA plate done and on the way back. I'll post some pics when it arrives and gets installed.

Got my armor back from Robert Stone a bit ago and mailed the DBA plate off to Pinnovators to get my headphone kit swapped over. The folks at Pinnovators are absolutely great and even if not theirs - I HIGHLY recommend a headphone kit. Playing games where you're hearing just the machine audio and not the coils firing all the time is a whole new experience.

If curious:
Headphone kit from Pinnovators.
Chrome leg bolts (I liked the look better than the powder coated ones.) from pinballplating.com.
Coin bezels from pinball life.
Speaker lights from Doug (also amazing to deal with) at speakerlightkits.com.
Blue T-molding from the appropriately named t-molding.com
Comet GI kit with some flipper and trough lights added.
Mirror blades from cointaker.
Prem->LE 5.25" speaker kit from Flipper Fidelity (Michael also a pleasure to deal with.)

Anyway - a premium done in a bit of a different way. Base coat seems to be a really dark blue, but looks black in most situations. With a blue flake that is a bit hard to catch in photos.
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I’m really liking the more subdued darker base that looks near black from certain angles while showing off the flake from others or in brighter light. You should be really pleased with the results. I know I am.

Side note - the first time I put a few games on mine after installing the armor my wife sarcastically asked “so that powder coating makes you play better, right?” 2-3 games later I set a new grand champ score with 2.4B and change. Frivolous cost instantly justified.

Not sure what address you used but I’ve always got responses right away at [email protected]. Try that if you used something else.

On a very basic level, I'd say to work on taking team ups into your battles. Wolverine shot up the middle is amonst the easiest shots on the game and adds the double damage team up that will help you complete modes way easier.

But in the long run?

This. 110%. You can have a good game where you progress through a ton of battles and reach some of the wizard modes and still be well below a billion. Or you can have a good run of Snikt shots and put up absolutely huge numbers without actually progressing far into the game. Snikt! all day every day for big scores.

What cracks me up is that nearly 5 months and well over 1000 games into owning it, I still somehow hear the occasional new callout. (Though it's been a while.)

But yeah. Mystery apparently solved already, but this was a giant WTF post. "Man, I gotta pay attention to that Boom rap more."

Seriously.

If you mean "loosen the two bolts that hold each of the two front legs on" - no. Don't do that.

Gets some furniture sliders or similar if you want to be able to nudge more / slide the machine around while playing. The legs should be attached tight.

For the last run - "No" and "Sorta"

I have an April 2021 build premium. The Snikt target still came without an anti-sway bracket out of the box, but it's a $5 part from PBL. The leading edge of the Katana ramp guild came with a notch out of the leading edge. Whether that's enough to prevent any damage is beyond me. I still installed the cliffy and used washers all over the place to raise every rail off the playfield.

Either it's been there all along and I haven't noticed at all, it's a weird glitch, or it's actually new (Though I didn't see anything about it in the readme)

But - at the end of a ball a few times holding in both flippers has seemed to skip the bonus animation entirely and immediately kick a new ball into the lane. Not just skip the long bonus count - I know that's been a thing forever, but it's literally skipping the entire sequence.

Latest update also fixes the "Lil' Deadpool Frenzy" highscore bug.

I absolutely have not. After playing it for so long with the software error - I have no idea what a decent frenzy score is going to be.

Sigh. Last night I started Bounce, immediately started a multiball, hit a Snickt to go 2x and just ate absolute shit.

I have no idea what they've done to the EB levels, but it sure seems wrong. Seems that it used to be 20(?) by default I think. I had it on dynamic and it was run up to 65 on my machine where it stayed since I would get there often enough for it to not fall back down. Never did get above that either so I assume 65 was the cap

I haven't bothered going into any settings since the update, but it definitely dropped it back down to 30 or something and while I admittedly haven't been playing much the last couple weeks - I haven't noticed it climbing at all. Kinda lame if they turned the dynamic level off since there's nothing about it in the read me.

Definitely still in there. Heard it last night while playing.