This damage was caused by the guide scraping the play field. Seems like if you don't have any damage you are trying to cover a simple washer would be enough to lift the guide off the play field.

Yeah the washer fix is what most people are doing, unfortunately I was unlucky and have some pretty bad damage underneath that guide. While I get the complaints about it being a little long (again, it's his first draft of it), I'm incredibly happy with it, as it completely covers the damage, and now I know it won't get worse.

The final iteration will be shorter, for the time being this was a WIP based off his LOTR protector for a similar issue.

Photoshop. Probably could use one of the similar free programs but it is what I'm accustomed to using.

Fresh LE owner here.

It has now been 3 days since I received my Deadpool and I just have to say this is one impressive pinball machine!
I have been doing this for quite some time and played a lot of different games and have had the opportunity to own a few really good ones also, but I can totally see this becoming one of my all-time favorites. Well done Stern

Anybody else experiencing the ball rattle around when going up the right loop? It ends up banging around under the sword handle and then rolling back down into the the shooter lane (maybe 1 out of 10 shots). Not sure if this is normal or if there is something I should be looking at more closely.

I have the same issue, hopefully there is a minor adjustment on the playfield to fix this.

Check the switch stack for the button in the center under the lockdown bar. Likely the switch leaves are too close together (always making contact) or too far apart (never making contact). Adjust. Then with the lockdown bar still off, go into switch test mode and make sure it's working, THEN replace the glass and the lockdown bar and do a final test.

I had to work on my orbits and guides to make them smoother:

1. Lifted left gate at rear (screws behind back board) it was rubbing against the ball when open and slowing it down.
2. Bent all rollover switches so they don’t poke up as much
3. Adjusted spinner leaf switches and added lithium grease to make them less obstructive to the ball

After all this I do notice the right orbit is clunky. I think the culprit is this:
image (resized).jpg

I’ve been thinking of removing. It seems a really stupid solution to keep the ball guide in place. I think the ball is jumping over it.

Yeah, it's weird that it would be at playfield level instead of raised an inch or so.

It is there to direct the ball coming out of the pop bumpers, without it I think you would get even more balls in the shooter lane.

If it was raised up it would deflect the ball as it went up the right side rail. As it sits the ball should not come in contact with it. I tried running the ball by hand it is clears that metal.
__________________________

Stumped at what will make this smoother, love every aspect of this game except for the right loop rejects. I am tempted to put a ball gate on the shooter lane. It would need to be angled to work though so it doesn't trap the ball.

Yeah balls are round. A square ball would hit it for sure.

Has anyone had the weapon switch keep going off like you made the shot (ramp behind lil dead pool) when using the right flipper? I noticed it when i first start the game even before I plunge the ball. I tried toadjust the two sensors on both sides of the ramp behind lil deadpool so I doesnt continue to happen. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Anybody have an issue with the auto plunger plunging a ball very weak every once in awhile? any suggestions for a fix for it?

"Flippers causing playfield lighting to go crazy" Hey, gang, scratching my head here. I've had this NIB Premium for a couple months now, no problems, and has the latest code. Yesterday for the first time there was a freeze/reboot during play. Seemed ok, but a few games later the playfield lights, especially the inserts, started behaving bizarrely. When I hit the flippers, especially the right flipper, different inserts start to light up, see the two images, this is before the ball was even launched after game start. I tried reseating the MPU connections, and Node 1 on the cabinet to no avail. Anybody have any advice? Thanks in advance!

DP1 (resized).jpg

DP2 (resized).jpg

If you take the time to record it with an iphone on slo-mo, it will likely become obvious what's causing the rattle hits. It doesn't bother me enough to do that yet. I just chalked it up to being a Gomez design.

Glass off. Switch test mode. Smack the playfield firmly with your open palm in various places on the playfield and the cabinet. See if that switch triggers. Sounds like it's vibration-related.

Node 8 is where the flippers are driven and all the lights shown in your picture as affected are on that board, too. I'm *guessing* the node board is borked. Node 8 and 9 are the same, you just change the dip switches to make one into the other. I'd power off, take pictures of cabling locations on Node 8 and 9, then unplug and swap the boards and change the dip switches and see if the problem travels. I'm betting it does.

Node 8 is OFF OFF OFF OFF
Node 9 is OFF OFF ON OFF

This sounds like a great lead, thanks. I've never messed with a node board before, I'm worried I might mess this up. I'll send a note to the dealer I bought it from too, maybe he will conclude Node 8 is borked and send a new one. You seem really well versed on this so I suspect you are spot on! Do you have any idea why it borked? If I do switch node 8 and 9, where will the problem "travel to"? i.e., what lights does Node 9 control? Thanks very very much! -Paul

DP nodes (resized).jpg

Node 9 is DEAD (not POOL) lights, Dazzler Team-Up, Disco ball, all the lights leading to the left ramp, special, colossus team-up lights. It's all in the manual charts starting on page 11.

The coil drivers for node 9 are drop target reset, right ramp hold, all pop bumpers, etc.

The only way you can mess it up is if you plug something into the wrong place, but taking good pictures from multiple angles and copying what goes where SLAVISHLY should be fine (and remembering to change the dip switches correctly before powering back on).

Then “Slavishly” it will be sir! Thanks again, will try in the morning.

Maybe check the connections to the Node board. You might get lucky and find a loose contact. Also check for a wire that might be shorting.

Of course. I assumed the easy stuff like checking connections had already been done, but maybe not.

Was it known that you can turn the background on your score display all black with a font and outline of all red by hitting both flipper buttons after the game is over when it's displaying your final score? I just found this today...

Anybody have an issue with the auto plunger plunging a ball very weak every once in awhile? any suggestions for a fix for it? Thank you.

Maybe the coil sleeve is dirty, or the plunger is off center?

I had this issue and it ended up being a loose LED wire. for me it was as easy as seating it back in properly. will probably come loose again at some point.

I had this exact problem on my pro. I turned off the pin, reseated all of the connections on node boards 8b 8c and 9 and it fixed the problem.
My 2-5 X inserts and inlanes were going absolutely haywire.

Thanks; I will try re-seating all the node boards mentioned; I had only done 8 + 9. Thanks!

Good news, I reseated node 8 and 8a and the problem disappeared! (for now, at least). I love shaker motors, but one wonders what else they shake loose. Thanks again for those who offered advice!

I took a slo-mo video of my machine when it happens. I did this in the trough test. It is basically launching the ball into the left metal rail at the bottom of the shooter lane. I would suggest taking a look at the auto launch.

There's also discussion on the matter back a few pages. @apex came up with some troubleshooting tips.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/66#post-5032934

I turned the shaker off after 50ish plays because it just seemed too strong even on middle setting. Do miss it, but not enough to turn back on.

Turned mine off too. even the moderate setting is rediculous and I feel it doesnt add anything. Now I have it set to lowest setting(not off) and it never vibrates.... Anyways I didnt like the shaker for this game.

Pinball Life just added the Pro translite for those with Premiums that want to put a Pro translite on it. Not a special-order item anymore...

https://www.pinballlife.com/deadpool-pro-translite.html

I had this problem and traced it down to a loose Node 8, CN3 plug. The problem for me was that after reseating it, the flashing lights would come back (With right flipper) after a few games (Probably due to the shaker on my LE).

Finally got out the bluetack and wrapped the offending connector with it to keep the connection solid to the board!

Have not have any problems since this hacky fix

Great job hawkfanz !

Good to know. It was about 2 months ago when it happened to mine and has been good since. I don't know what blue tack is but I'll keep that in mind if it happens again.

Very nice. Cant decide.

Snikt is hardest to hit on purpose I think, but I also struggle hitting the Dazzler shot a lot.

I found working on the spinner really helped. Check whether the spinner bracket needs bending. It may be the angle is slightly off for the orbit. I also bent the switch down a bit so the spinner moves more freely and some lubricant.

Well usually it’s the red money shot during Megaladon quest. BRICK. Snikt is a bitch when you’re shooting for it. I also have issue hitting the right orbit some games, like serious issues.

Dazzler
Dazzler
Dazzler

Snikt shot for sure

After a left ramp return let the ball rollover to the right flipper while holding up the left. On mine it lines up about perfect for a Dazzler shot when I do that.

Is there a post in the thread about making sure the Snikt shot is dialed in? Mine works great but I thought maybe I should check.

For me Dazzler is the easiest. Otherwise:

3. Domino
2. Colossus
1. Snikt

4k messages. Oooh, not bad!