Deadpool (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2018
Deadpool (Premium)
Stern, 2018
Deadpool (Pro)
Stern, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinmonk.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from sirlonzelot:i have a dple coming this Weekend. a Question : did this game Need Spotlights ? from some Videos i saw it Looks very dark
If you play in a dark room, then I would say a couple spotlights would be a good idea. Otherwise, no.
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:Hi everyone . I'm seeing that my node bored 1,8,9 are not responding. How do I fix it? Thanks.
Lift the playfield and check the connections of all the connectors between the boards. Did you recently update the software? Power outage?
1 is the Cabinet Node board in the bottom front of the inside cabinet
8 is the 48V driver node up by the flippers
9 is a 48V driver node about mid playfield
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:I just wiggled all the connections, they felt tight. I didn't try unplugging them them though.
I played a about 3 games and I didn't see any problems in game play or machanical problems. I'm new to the hobby and I appreciate all the feed back.
If the node boards aren't responding, you shouldn't get anything that uses 48v since both those node boards control that. Maybe it messed up your firmware. Try downloading (or re-downloading) the latest version for your machine (Pro or Prem/LE, they're different) and try re-flashing it.
Quoted from wtuttle:Pretty sure I know what this issue is, just not the fix. Lots of shavings on my coin box. Wife was playing a game (beating me handily) and her right flipper froze in the upright position.
Thinking this means my coil stops have failed. Does that mean I simply order new coil stops and replace?
Anything else to do while I'm at it?
Cheers from Canada.
[quoted image]
Yep. Pinball life is your friend.
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Quoted from wtuttle:Good call, thanks.
Anyone know how long it takes to replace coil stops? I am not an accomplished pin-tech...
Dead easy. You don't have to take the flipper assembly apart to replace it. Two screws on each side. 5 minutes tops per side, so a 10 minute job.
Quoted from scottslash:I have both Aerosmith and Deadpool. Closest thing to Aerosmith really is GOTG. Rules, modes, multiballs are practically identical. Deadpool is like neither IMO.
Aerosmith is much closer to KISS. Layout is almost identical. It had KISS code left in the first revisions, even.
Quoted from wtuttle:Anyone have a tough time un-screwing the coil-stop screws? Mine are either glued-in with screw glue, or I am super weak. Could not get them off to replace the coil-stops.
I feel shame.
Are you using a screwdriver or a socket? DEFINITELY use a socket and rachet.
Quoted from mbrave77:Why do you HAVE to do this by 500 games? I havent had a coil stop issue yet and Ive had it 1.5 years
You've been lucky. The coil stops are so crappy they have failed for me in less than 100 games on some Sterns here. You have no gold dust in the cabinet under the coils?
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I also have this gold dust with replaced coil stops...
From Pinball Life? The ones I've used from PBL have been rock solid. None have failed.
For deadpool:
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/515-6308-01.html
But I have no idea how durable these are compared to the pinball life ones...
Quoted from joeraptor2003:Thanks so much for taking the time to help with this project. Thanks to you, the community now has the option to get some terrific protectors.
These are nice thick pieces. not your ordinary protectors.
If anyone is interested, we have them up on our web site.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/deadpool-pinball-plastic-protectors
This is a great service, but why would you use acrylic when PETG is 5-7 times stronger and less prone to cracking from ball hits?
Quoted from wtuttle:Say...does anyone know if there are there any known alternate translites or backglasses for Deadpool? I love the Pin, but not really the backglass.
For instance, I own the Premium, and wish there was a backglass that matched my cabinet art a bit better (blue!).
Not the end of the World...just asking!
Cheers from Canada,
Winston
We put the Pro translite on the Premium.
Quoted from durgee7:Hey Guys,
I've bothered Cliffy enough and wanted to ask you all if this longer piece goes in the shooter lane. Based on previous posts, I know where the remaining protectors are to be installed.
I think it's for the outhole drain. Let me check the fit.
[quoted image]
Yes, it's for the shooter lane, on the right side. Use clamps to hold the wood down and everything in place as you re-install the screws, or it will shift over time.
Quoted from Rob_G:I had this little screw come off from somewhere on the left side of the playfield, behind the left ramp. I have removed both the left ramp and Katana ramp and cannot find where this little guy goes. Ideas? It's not an opto bracket screw.... The threads are also short enough that it must be screwing directly into metal.
[quoted image]
Check for this one under the turnaround area on the ramp.
deadpool screw (resized).jpgQuoted from Rob_G:Thanks. That is what I originally thought because the screw seemed to come from that area. But, I believe I found where it was from and it's the right side of the playfield. I did not have to remove the ramps at all. Doh!
Rob[quoted image]
Awesome it was easy rather than annoying to get to.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Just joined the club, picked up an awesome HUO LE from fellow pinsider NimblePin. We are loving it after only a couple of days. It’s my first non-pro machine.
First time I’ve owned HD glass, holy moly what a difference.
[quoted image]
Just be sure not to clean it with glass cleaners containing ammonia.
Quoted from pinbuoy:Wow really? Why is that?
It ruins the anti-glare coating applied to the glass over time.
Quoted from Eskaybee:I’ve played that exact machine! Its a beauty! And I can’t remember, but I may even of had my initials on it...but I’m sure nimblepin would have erased them if I did! lol just messing. Congrats on the game.
And for glass cleaner, go 50/50 distilled water / 90% isopropyl alcohol - spray on towel not directly on glass.
I use Sparkle purple (not green) or Sprayway. And the spraycan Sprayway is what I mostly prefer now.
https://www.amazon.com/Sprayway-443331-Ammonia-Cleaner-Packaging/dp/B00O22YEXQ
Use the pump if you go with sparkle, the cans leak over time. I have no idea why.
Quoted from 85vett:Sprayway
I must use it wrong. I started using it on my cars and PF glass. Says it's streak free but I always have to buff the glass with a microfiber towel after use to get it clear again
It is a little more fussy, but not bad. It seems to clean finger smudges quickly and I like the smell. Sparkle purple in the pump is a good choice, too.
Quoted from maffewl:Maybe I’m missing something but what is wrong with Windex?
It's only a problem on glass with anti-glare coating. Big no-no if you have anti-glare glass. Use sparkle purple or sprayway instead since neither contain the ammonia that breaks down the anti-glare coating.
Quoted from scorche:Windex also has an ammonia-free version.
I've tried it and do not like it. It's really streaky and not easy to get to a nice clear state.
Quoted from SketchyMcDuff:Finally!!! The topper to end all toppers!!! https://www.entertainmentearth.com/product/marvel-legends-interactive-electronic-deadpools-head/hse6981
Seems kinda small, unfortunately...
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:I would just order Voodoo glass from CoinTaker. It's just as good and cheaper.
$50 less isn't that great, and there are no specs posted I could find for it. I'll pay the extra $50 for the one(s) with posted specs.
Quoted from awesome1:NIB Deadpool Pro unboxed on 9/6/2019...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
At least Stern tested it...extensively.
Quoted from 85vett:To funny, but unless I'm misinterpreting things, I think the goal was to show some averages after 2500 plays.
I think you got it right. I just put a turn on the post. 
Quoted from awesome1:Yeah - I could have worded my post better!
I reached 2500 plays in just under 10 months.
I think most people got what you were trying to say. But you left the opening for a Stern joke, so I took it.
Quoted from beergut666:Ha! I went to the bathroom to take a leak, came back, cracked another beer and it was still counting down the bonus.
The pitch gets really high on the counter...
Quoted from pinbuoy:the pitch seems to flatten out at about 30-40 million....
Ha! I never had the patience and cancelled the count after a bit.
Quoted from 85vett:I wonder how those game score averages work out when you restart the game after ball one? I assume that counts as a game. If so, I'm betting my average is pretty low as I've gotten into a really bad habit of restarting a game after a ball one house ball.
It's actually hurt me competitively as now when I have a house ball on ball 1 in a tournament it rattles me and I can't seem to ever dig out of that hole. I probably need to turn that feature off...
Yeah, I usually turn it off because I don't have the self control not to use it.
Quoted from hollyw00d:A couple of things to consider...
1) It will void the warranty on a new game if you install the aftermarket shaker
2) Some people report there is rattling with the aftermarket shaker, and you need to fiddle with it sometimes
That being said, I have one in my Ghostbusters premium. It came with the machine when I bought it. It's fine, there is some rattling but I haven't messed with it to see if I can eliminate it. But if I was buying a new machine I'd get OEM Stern.
There is only one shaker to consider - the one from Pinball Life. Other aftermarket shakers may suck, but I prefer the pinball life one over the stern and DEFINITELY over the terrible red tremor shaker. We installed over a dozen pinball life shakers for a route and never had an issue. The stern FUD warning about shakers refers to a brief period of weeks at the beginning of Spike 2 years ago. It has no relevance now to the pinball life shakers, which are rock solid and priced right.
Quoted from coop:Is there a way to adjust the angle of the kick out from the hellhouse scoop? I see that on Jack Danger's game the ball gets ejected onto the flipper but on my game, the ball gets thrown onto the ball guide behind the flipper. This means the ball then bounces into the sling and then right into the outlane. I lose one or two balls per game this way and it's kinda killing me.
I don't see any adjustments under the playfield and the scoop itself is stainless steel so it's super rigid. I just want it to kick out a little more to the left so I can have a fair chance to get it under control.
Try playing with the power of the kickout in the system settings (pretty sure it allows that, I don't remember for sure, though). Also, try bending the guide on the top down a little to keep the ball on the playfield faster when it's ejected.
Quoted from 85vett:Anytime. I got off my lazy butt and got two pictures during lunch today. Hope this helps explain things better too. Not saying it's perfect by any means but it's consistent to where I normally can get 3x without much trouble and get up to 5x often in MB when trying for it.[quoted image]
Your target is leaning.
Quoted from Lrrr:I think there is one more thing you can do... I am convinced that I have left flipper fade from a hot coil. It is definitely hotter than the right after a lot of games or long cradles. Very little chance of hitting snikt once this occurs and even the right katana ramp shot becomes harder. I am going to pick up a pinmonk flipper fan when he has them ready, as discussed on STh forum. (Coil sleeve replacement helped a little.)
Can you do me a favor and PM me a couple pictures of the coil area, left and right on your Deadpool? I didn't take pictures of that before the one here left. Want to know if either the STh or TMNT fan brackets will work, or if I have to make a third design for them to fit.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Are you going to make these flipper fans for IMDN?
My goal is to get a handful of brackets that will work in any of the Spike games and just offering it as a general item. The wiring harness will work in any of them and is very flexible with lego-like sections, so I may add an optional switch that can be bought separately and added inline that allows the fans to be turned off if you don't want them running when the game is on.
I still have an Iron Maiden here and I plan on gathering temp data from it and installing brackets as soon as I'm done with the TMNT colored insert bracket rush.
Quoted from Lrrr:A few pictures sent. Kind of low res compared to regular posts for some reason, but maybe they will help.
Completely helpful. Looks like both sides will need the TMNT-style elevated and angled down fan bracket.
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:Is the latest code 1.02? And are there any plans for any more code updates for deadpool?
There's at least one more update coming to fix the "1" kerning issue and a fair amount of bugs.
Quoted from awesome1:I hope you have some insider information on this as we've been waiting over a year for another code update.
Would LOVE to get get one more update including what you mentioned and the inclusion of expanded high score/champion boards!
Nothing recent. Tanio just told me at Golden State last year that the next update would fix the "1" kerning problem, so I know one is still coming. I've sent him a ton of bugs and issues since then, but I thought the next update would already be out by now.
Quoted from punkin:Why downvote him then?
[quoted image]
His inner dingleberry was intruding.
Quoted from gumnut01:Maybe the solution. I have contacted our distro. Just to let you know a $5 part costs us $75 (AUD) delivery to Australia. So not a cheap option.
I'll have these in the Pinmonk.com store today or tomorrow. Even with the crazy shipping, should be about ~$42 (AUS which is ~$30 USD) for two shipped to Australia.
Quoted from punkin:I probably should get a pair too, go you halves in the shipping, including the cost to send to me up the coast ($10) gumnut01 ?
Assuming same cost to ship 4 vireland ?
Depends on if the additional weight takes it over some threshold. But in general the costs should be similar, yes.
Quoted from zucot:Did these ever get posted?
Stock order got delayed. Waiting for the box to show up. It's been bouncing around USPS since last week. Hopefully today.
Quoted from zucot:Did these ever get posted?
The anti-lean brackets are in the pinmonk.com store for international orders now. Let me know what it quotes you for shipping since it's done by weight and destination.
Quoted from Soulstoner:$14 shipping to Canada. $19 with replacement fan.
That's probably about right then. International shipping is crazy.
Thanks for running it.
Quoted from durgee7:Similar issue here. My new anti-sway bracket from pinball life works but I'm only able to get snkkt ramp shots on the fly. Also, I feel like the target is still overlapping the metal ball guide just a tad. I really don't like the idea of drilling new holes to reposition farther from the guide. Anyways, that's what I'm living with.
[quoted image]
According to Gomez, overlapping the metal guide a smidge is correct. Check the key post index for this thread.
Quoted from Lemank:Looking for a Deadpool near me if anyone has one for sale! Cash in hand.
"Near me" isn't really useful if your location is turned off so no one knows where you are...
Quoted from Lemank:I never realized others couldn’t see my location. Thank you for that and I’ve changed my settings. I acquire my new Deadpool on Thursday! I can’t wait to be in the club!
Welcome!
Quoted from flashburn:Checking out a DP LE for sale tomorrow. Is there anything I should pay special attention to? It only has a few plays.
Make sure the Vinyl LP is there.
Quoted from John1210:I know its an old question but people have had their games long enough now I'm guessing to make an informed opinion.
Pro or extra coin for the premium? A few thoughts. Cheers
Premium. No question. Totally the way to go for Deadpool.
Quoted from gecko157:Pro all you are really missing in it is the full left orbit and disco ball synced with the game. Not worth the extra cost of the premium imo, most games I would say go premium though. Also the pro has the better art work by far, fight me.
Buy the pro translite, problem solved. That's what I did.
Your list glosses over quite a bit that the Prem has the Pro does not:
Disco ball keyed to modes
Ramp on right side enabling full orbit and return to right flipper
Molded figurines WITH SPOTLIGHTS
Chimi truck
Actual drop targets instead of crappy standups
Controlled gates over the pop bumpers
The play experience on a Premium is way better than a Pro. I thought I hated Deadpool after playing only the pro. Found out I didn't hate the game, only the pro version of it after playing and loving an LE. Premium is the better experience, hands down.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I did not play the premium
Um...
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:post passes are also easy on this game, so no need for the right flipper feed.
Post pass stops the flow. Not a substitute for a full proper orbit feed to the right flipper. Play a Premium and you'll see.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Drop targets can cause brickshots, fast bounces SDTM or to the outlains if you hit them from the sides. (i know this from TWD)
Not the case on Deadpool. The angle isn't the same at TWD. Play a Premium and you'll see.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Molded figurines and discoball would be nice, but you can also buy those later much cheaper...
No you can't. You can have the LOOK of a discoball, but it's not a game controlled ball that works with disco mode. Play a premium and you'll see.
Quoted from Bundy:Regarding the pro translite, I will never be able to look at mine the same way again after a question from my son the other day.
He said: -Dad why is there milk coming out of the lady boob?
(Check Dazzler to the left of Deadpools head and you will understand the question.)
Haha! That HAS to be intentional. So funny...
Quoted from Phantasize:My lower left drop target has a hard time staying up when resetting. This results in the reset coil firing up to 3 times in quick succession before giving up.
I haven't looked at the mechanism yet, but any pointers on where to start? It's a fairly new machine with about 150 games on it so far.
Either a bent target (bend it back the other way) or a broken "catch" shelf that the target rests on when it resets up. My guess it that the target has just bent away from making good contact with the shelf. Pull it up (higher than it would reset) and bend it forward.
Quoted from cloggedDrain:I want to get mirror sides too and I'm trying to decide between the decals or the steel blades. I'm leaning towards the steal blades, I feel like they would be sturdier and easier to install
Stern art blade decals, all the way. The LE ones are the nicest, but the ones Stern sells for the Prem/Pro look good installed and aren't hard to put on using the wet method.
Mirror blades are a constant headache due to scratches and scuffs. No such worries with the Stern art blades. You can scuff them and they don't show it, really. They CAN be snagged, but if they were mirror blades a snag would be a deep scratch you'll never buff out, so they're still ahead of mirror blades.
Quoted from glpinball:I joined the club in July! Loving the game, 1st new pin in like 20 years. (Have original KISS) I may have gone a little mod crazy with a few more yet to come. Mystique and Sabertooth, some lighting, cliffy's. Attaching some pics so you can see the mods, lol. The topper was a beast to get and I way overpaid but hey, good luck finding one. I even wrote Stern and they said they can't make more due to licensing issues whatever that means. So, who can spot all the mods?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Did you put a cliffy at the entrance to the Katana lane? It doesn't look like one is there, and that's probably the single most important mod for Deadpool since if you don't do it, the flexing of that lane guide will dig into the playfield and scratch into it or chip it. You can raise it with just some washers if you don't have the Cliffy. It's detailed here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/protecting-katana-lane-entrance-from-playfield-damage
Quoted from Pmaino:Hey guys. I have a premium on order in September and was wondering what everyone has done for siderails/armor? Looks like the katana side rails are no longer available. What have you all done for powdercoating?
Don't be too bummed. Those Katana rails are super-cheap - just printed paper for the "katanas" - gross.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:And that is how it came from the factory? You're the original owner?
Also, can someone confirm that factory setting is this arrowed post in the middle (on both sides) and the white rubber would not be on?
Thank you all again![quoted image]
Metal lane guide posts absolutely come from the factory with no rubber. Adding rubber really extends the ball times.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:And that post with arrow, should that be in the middle? I like to have my games set at factory.
Thanks!
I believe so, but I don't remember how it came. I opened mine wide.
Quoted from Sluggo39:Wh
When I get the new one I’m gonna run a bead of silicone around the base where the spring connects and see if that helps give it a little bit of a shock absorber
Pretty sure these are stress breaks, and silicone on the surface won't help tension coming from the spring on the inside towards the outside. But if it does, it'd be a great easy fix. Stranger Things have happened.
Quoted from Pinstein:Got before and after pics with the alternate translite installed yesterday for a side by side comparison. I feel my printer gives a little better color saturation than stern factory prints and for sure they look better when the machine is off. Boom!
[quoted image]
You added dazzler, but she's not squirting milk like on the Pro translite...
Quoted from gumnut01:I must be going crazy. Last week I raise my pitch Back to 7. Everything seems snappy and fast. Awesome fun to play.
Today I play, hardly gets up katana ramp. Snikt forget it. Feels lethargic even doing wolverine.
Only just turned machine on so don’t see how it’s coil heating up. Maybe binding? No gold dust so not stops.
It’s weird. Am I losing it or can flipper power vary from time to time?
Checked my pitch and it had not changed.
2020, man. 2020. Nothing is predictable except that everything is unpredictable.
Quoted from paul_8788:Awesome update. High score tables, DJ mixer mode, stacking changes even fixing the minor kerning issues. Kudos.
That 1 kerning issue wasn't so minor. It affected all the "1" displays and made them look really weird with like double or triple the space they should have had. Glad to see it's finally vanquished.
Quoted from gumnut01:What’s weird is that turtles feels a lot more powerful than DP. Don’t they use the same coils?
Kinda. Deadpool uses two different coils:
090-5020-20-ND
090-5032-ND
TMNT just uses 090-5032-ND
Quoted from Looprunner:Has anyone seen this game freeze during attract mode? Every once in awhile the game just locks up in attract mode and I have to restart it
Stern has had a problem like this at least since Iron Maiden. It's why they do the "maintenance reboot" once every 24 hours so they can clear memory and prevent the memory leak (I believe they have) from taking down the machine. It's the Microsoft way to solve problems. Just reboot so the problem doesn't happen. They did it on Ford Focus cars (yeah, not smart - it's why Ford dumped them). I thought Stern fixed the core issue, but I caught a middle of the day reboot earlier this year, so maybe it's still a thing.
All of that said, the maintenance reboots should be preventing lockups of the kind your describing, so you may have a bad CPU board OR bad SD card. I'd try making a whole new SD card first and see if that takes care of it.
Quoted from Looprunner:It definitely wasn't on 24 hours. Probably just a couple of hours. The screen just freezes and you can't do anything on the machine. They reboot solves the problem. Maybe it's just happening early on my machine. I'll try the SD card, thanks.
Honestly it sounds most like a crap SD card. Second choice would be a bad CPU or CPU board. Definitely try building a new quality SD card and replacing that. There are instructions on how to do it on Stern's site. There are TONS of fake Sandisk out there, so do not buy the card off Ebay or Amazon. Try to get it at a local store.
Quoted from BeeGee6533:I discovered that it will drop the targets no problem unless there is a ball captured inside, regardless of what mode it is in. When there is a ball inside that area and it’s resting on the metal plate and leaning against the target farthest to the right it won’t drop the targets to release the ball, etc. Messing with that small plate above the small coil underneath the playfield isn’t changing anything. It drops the targets fine when no ball is in there. Sorry to load up the thread with my issue. Any more suggestions would be most appreciated. Thx!
Does the opto that detects the ball is resting in the corner of that little area work when you trigger it manually in switch test mode?
Quoted from VALIS666:Anyone ever get an issue before where a lot of the inserts will briefly blink every time you hit a flipper button? I searched the thread and couldn't find anything, but then "blinking" and "flipper" aren't the most useful search terms. Of course I assume a connection is slightly loose somewhere, but just checking if anyone has had this before and has any specific knowledge of the problem.
Loose connection or an intermittent break. Figure out WHICH inserts are doing it and you can narrow it down to which connectors service those to check them.
If it's GI doing this, that's usually a bad GI bulb. Stern uses really cheap ones.
Quoted from VALIS666:Seems like it's the bottom third randomly. Often it's the villain name and X multiplier inserts, but I think I just notice them more since they're front and center.
I pushed most light board and other connectors in more tightly, and also zip tied some wires away from a coil lug (still slightly touching though, just in a bad spot), and the blinking has improved, but still there. Less bright on the blinks, and now only maybe every one of every three flips instead of every flip.
Here's a quick video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ofBohjFthfU6SiUS7
Thanks Vic.
All of the problem lights are coming off Node 8 via CN3. I'd try sliding both ends of that on and off a few times in case the pins have oxidized (how old is this machine?) over time to try to clean them a little.
Also, look at the solder pads on the back of the board (that you see) - both ends of the cable, on Node 8 and Node 8b where the connector header pins connect with your phone magnifying the area greatly and see if there's any cold solder cracking lines, which means the solder needs to be reflowed.
If it's none of those, you can swap node 8 and node 9 (resetting the dip switches to tell 8 it's 9 now and vice versa, the info's in the manual pdf). If that solves the issue, you need to get your node 8 repaired. Hit up Borygard for that. He fixes them.
Here are your affected lights and the board and connectors:
2x 8b
4x 8b
5x 8b
Sauron 8b CN3-9
-B 8b CN3-4
-O 8b CN3-5
-O 8b CN3-10
-M 8b CN3-11
Quoted from pinbuoy:Best place to buy flipper link assys and coil stops in the US?
Anyplace w shipping significantly cheaper than Marco?
Who makes the stronger aftermarket stops?
PinballLife.com is what you want.
Coil Stops:
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Quoted from DavisAZ:Hi - I just upgraded to v1.05 code and now every couple games the playfield lights just start randomly blinking or staying on. Example - before launching the ball, instead of a single lane lit at the top for skill shot, 2 or 3 are lit or blinking... sometimes all. Doesn’t happen every game single game, but at least 1 out of 3 games.
What I’ve tried so far is completing the full upgrade, then after experiencing the issue, I tried a quick upgrade. No luck.
Annoying.
Anyone else experience this after the upgrade or have ideas? Appreciate the help.
P.s. I saw a prior post about inserts blinking briefly when hitting flipper buttons... but mine are not triggered by flippers... they just randomly blink, etc.
Check for loose connections first.
Then, if that doesn't fix it, try making a brand new SD card using the instructions on Stern's site in the support area. Try that. Your crappy Stern SD card may be taking a dump.
If that doesn't fix it, probably a node board. You can diagnose this by swapping node 8 and 9 (and changing the dip switches to tell the boards they've been swapped).
Just finished doing flipper coil temp testing for Deadpool and got a surprising result. I was expecting peak temps somewhere in the 140s because Deadpool has never felt fade-y to me, but the left flipper maxed out my gauge at 157 degrees. The right flipper never got above 129F in an hour of play.
Why is this weird? Because it didn't feel like Deadpool flippers were fading. MAYBE the backhand of the left ramp after about 40 minutes, but even then it didn't feel like obvious fade, even when I was looking right at the temp gauge wondering why the flipper didn't feel as mushy as it should at 157F. There might be a clue developing here, though. So far, the ONLY TWO Spike games with a very hot coil are using a 090-5020-20-ND for the coil that's getting very hot. On Stranger Things, it's the right coil, on Deadpool it's the left. The OTHER coil in both cases is a 090-5032-ND, which doesn't get all that hot. So, interesting bits coming out of the testing. Soon, I want to add coil resistance tests at the beginning of testing and at the end to see how much resistance has changed during the test. It's on the to-do list.
Here's the updated chart, with Spooky tests added now. The Spooky kit should be out late next week.
Coil-Temp-Rankings_Jan_2021 (resized).jpgQuoted from Chisox:Very interesting, thanks for posting. I’ve never noticed any flipper fade on this game but next time I play it a bunch I’ll be sure to see if I can tell. As an aside, have you ever tested the king of flipper fade LOTR?
This whole testing thing started with Stranger Things because the fade is pretty fast and so pronounced. So I kind of fell into testing coil temps and making solutions from there. My immediate goal is to finish up all the Spike2 and Spooky so people considering buying my Flipper cooling kits will have a guide for whatever particular machine they're considering putting it on (some, like Star Wars are confirmed not to get any benefit because its coils stay pretty cool). Then I'll do JJP and then work backwards through the older machines, probably spot checking ones with known fade like LotR, the king of modern era fade.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Maiden is an awesome game. But, DP smokes it. That’s not a knock on maiden, that’s just how good DP is.
Which is a testament to the work Tanio did on the software over time, because Deadpool had a VERY rough start. It's one of Stern's very best now. Can't wait to see what Tanio codes next.
Quoted from Looprunner:I purchased a new SD card and created a brand new image from the Stern website. It's been about eight or nine days without the machine locking up. I'm not claiming victory but it's definitely a good sign. Thanks to everyone for their help!
Great news. Those Stern SD cards must be factory seconds or counterfeits or something. They have so many problems. Thanks for following up!
Quoted from ignat:What are the chances of getting a set of the pop caps part # 502-7075-00
Looks like they are sold out everywhere.
Thanks guys
Email [email protected] and have him check stock at Stern. If they have them, he can get them for you.
Hooked on Pinball also has a set of them that they make:
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p206/Deadpool-Pop-Ninja-Bumper-Pinball-Mod.html
Quoted from Hayfarmer:I'm picking up a Deadpool sat, pro, was wondering how you liked the disco ball. How close is it to the factory one? I've never seen in person so no idea. Thx
The pro disco ball doesn't work with the modes like the Prem/LE one does. It's keyed to just a light/flasher and that's it.
Quoted from Lermods:It is interactive with the game’s disco insert so when the disco insert is lit, the disco ball spins and illuminates. It will function in attract mode and during gameplay. It’s one of our best selling mods.
As noted, it’s not tied directly to the mode since that is coded in the software. is the disco mode the same on the pro and premium/le, same shots?
I was just making it clear that adding your disco ball mod to a Pro doesn't make it work like the Prem/LE. Some people are confused about that. It wasn't a knock on your mod at all. Sorry if it came off like that.
Quoted from punkin:Now we've got cardboard collectors, i never knew.
Of course. We have water futures trading now. You're a little behind on your apocalypse planning. Cardboard is bitcoin to the believers.
https://www.cnn.com/2020/12/07/investing/water-futures-trading/index.html
Quoted from Pinman502:Anyone else having problems with the orbit ramp not staying down long enough and air balling over the flipper and down the drain mine stays down for a split second then pops back up
Likely a switch problem with the switch that tells the machine where the ball is. Put it in switch test mode and then hit the playfield with an open hand in areas by the orbit path. If something triggers, fix that switch.
If NOTHING triggers, check to make sure all the switches in the orbit path actually work when triggered, using your finger while in switch test mode.
Quoted from DaddyManD:Anyone having the playfield coating start coming up near the rollovers? See what I mean just above the word Deadpool in the pic. Any tips for how to fix? I think someone had mentioned mylar but have no idea how to do this or if its worth it. Its really not bad right now but thinking it will get worse over time. thanks all.
[quoted image]
It looks like your one has clear pooling/ink lifting. You definitely want to address that ASAP. I'd use the vinyl iron/mylar combination fix. The iron to flatten out the lifting again, and the mylar to protect the area from chipping.
It's covered here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands
Quoted from Jediturtle:Are you sure that isn’t just mylar around the pop area lifting a bit? It looks as if it’s nicely cut around the lane guides. I’m not sure if they came with protected from the factory or not but I know many games do.
Hard to tell from the picture, but if all of them were protected with mylar it doesn't explain what looks like a deep scratch on the post to the left of it. Whatever the case, IRL I'm sure he'll be able to tell and he now has all the info he needs if it isn't protected.
Quoted from bigchief99:Hello,
I need help for a friend/doctor (who does not live close) that only owns a Deadpool LE and is having some trouble with his machine. I told him I would post and ask this question in the Deadpool forum. According to him on a two player game the ball is auto launching for the second player without touching the machine. I don't thing he is having a problem during a single player game( not 100% sure). He is not a pinball tech guy but I told him it is probably a switch or opto. Again I have never been to his house or saw the machine in person. Would a tech error show up in the diagnostic service menu? I have searched a little on pinside and there was a similar problem on a AC/DC Luci where people suggested to reseat the connectors on the drop targets or something(sensitive switch anywhere on the playfield) might be causing it or maybe the button on the lock door bar.
Any help in this matter would be much appreciated. I will check back for updates or people can message me. Thanks again.
More information is needed.
He needs to verify he is/is not having the problem on 1 player games also. Also, does it do this on every ball or just ball 1?
Quoted from zeldarioid:Hey, all! SNIKT fix question here. I’ve searched through the thread and found out about the anti-sway bracket to make the SNIKT shot sturdier, and I’ve gotten and applied that. The question I have now is: Where should the target rest above the playfield for it to play as-intended? Does it want to contact the metal of the guard rail in that inner loop shot at all, or no? Does it want to be parallel with the black line in front of it, just behind, seated on top of it? Angled in any particular way? Etc.
Applying the SNIKT bracket certainly helps to keep the target in place, wherever that place may be, but I’m having trouble determining where exactly the target should be seated to be as effective and makeable as intended by the designer, and was wondering if anyone had any specific advice on the actual positioning?
It seems at the moment that only a really strong, square shot to the bottom edge of the target (not the face of the target), basically letting the ball contact the pop bumper behind the target, is what reliably shoots the ball up the ramp. Hitting the face of the target itself seems to just either jump up off the playfield, or go partially up the ramp before coming back down.
Click on the topic index at the top of any page of this thread and look for the one that says "SNIKT target alignment - Per George Gomez" - click on that.
Quoted from JackOfPots:PinMonk colored brackets for playfield multiplier and modes installed (along with the quiet fan) After seeing these installed I'm probably going to get the BOOM inlane brackets now. I'm very happy with these look on the game.
[quoted image]
Glad you like them! Seeing a machine without them and just white inserts (Iron Maiden, TMNT, and Deadpool, especially, but also Ghostbusters and Star Wars to a lesser extent) just looks wrong to me now.
If you have stock bulbs on it, I would suggest the Yellow-Orange-Yellow BOOM set rather than the Yellow to Red gradient BOOM set (there are two versions in the listing to choose from) because I found that the red "M" on the right tends to get lost in the red glow of all the stock bulbs on that side. The Y-O-Y looks better, IMO. But I offer both, so I'm happy to take your money, either way.
Quoted from edward472:Might be a dumb question. Why not just buy colored bulbs?
They're just surface-mount LEDs on a circuit board so there's no bulb to change. Also, the array of colored bulbs and/or lamp condoms to pick from is much less diverse than the colors available using gels to filter the light. The only downside is the gels can fade after thousands of hours of use, but in home use that's likely 7-10 years or more.
Quoted from JackOfPots:I ordered a set from you right before I posted the picture. Ha. Look forward to installing it. As good as these look after I installed your first quiet fan it became the #1 must have mod for me.
Jampo approves of this sentiment and your clear pinball tastelevel.
jampo_approves.gifQuoted from RipleYYY:come on ! you cant be serious !!! how this great box could pass thrue the chimney ?
well, Santa secret i suppose...
Santa's buddies with Hank Pym. They have a technology-sharing arrangement.
Quoted from Meegis:So I went to a buddies place the other night and was playing dple.
Noticed the chimichanga on the backglass.
Is it just me, or is it pretty suggestive?
I tried searching the forum, saw no mention (awkward to search for by the way)
I mean, lotr le had the infamous golden hair dick, does dple have a chimivagina?!!?!
Take a look...
[quoted image]
Pocket puss disguised as a chimi so no one suspects. No wonder he looks so intense about getting it back.
Not much worse than Dazzler shooting breastmilk out of her boob on the Pro translite.
deadpool-pro (resized).pngQuoted from EricHadley:Really loving this game. The shots are great and the code is perfect. I tore it down to wax it today and installed titans. I really debated about color and finally went with green!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I did green on the flippers and clear and then blue then black on the slings. Couldn't make up my mind, either, but settled on black in the end. Green is the right answer for the flippers for sure, though.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I went off the deep end and went with silver flippers and clear Super Bands.
[quoted image]
If the green apron light wasn't washing out the colors that could be pretty rad.
Quoted from wtuttle:Happy New Year, Deadpool owners.
Playing a "farewell 2020" series tonight with my wife, and we noticed that the left orbit shot (Dazzler) on our Premium is not resulting in the Kitana ramp dropping to return the ball to the right flipper.
Any ideas on what to check?
Cheers from Canada,
Winston
Orbit switches, probably the one in the upper right. Switch test mode, roll a ball over them (don't use your finger). They may just need adjusting (bending the wire up a bit) to trigger when the ball rolls over, or there may be a broken wire. You'll know once you test the switches.
Quoted from JackOfPots:More changes to the game. I like the red. Also apparently need a trough light.
[quoted image]
If you get a trough light, get a neutral or complementary color. I hate the ones that mess up the playfield colors near the apron.
Quoted from JackOfPots:I agree. I'm thinking white. It's the only dark part of the game with the pinstadiums on there.
Sunlight white or natural or something like that. I don't think blue white would look good. Too jarring.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Well, it happened. Playfield artwork chipped at the katana entrance (on the right orbit side, though there is pooling on the left side). Just when I had gotten familiar with the issue and was about to address some ball guides with washers and Mylar. *smh* What timing!
Is this something that people tend to “repair?” I saw the chip occur in real time, so stopped playing immediately and retrieved the chipped off piece...can it be glued back into place or something, and then secured over top with Mylar? Is this something that can’t really be fixed, but you just implement measures to prevent further damage? Is this something that gets a new, unpopulated playfield sent out for? The game is a Sept 4, 2020 build, acquired in late September, so it’s pretty new, but I imagine a new playfield is still probably wishful thinking on my part :p
What a damn bummer!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah you can try to repair it by super-gluing the chip(s) back in, but it almost never looks great. then once you have it done, you can mylar over it and raise the guide with washers. BUT, if you just got it in late Sept, I would DEFINITELY run this by your distributor and have them ask Stern for an unpopulated playfield. That's a pretty nasty chip and bunching on the other side.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Thank you both! I’ll reach out to my distributor, and take a look at what preventative options I have for my other machines (as well as the rest of this DP playfield). Assuming I am able to get a new, unpopulated playfield, my first inclination would be to leave that one in its box until/if I ever decide to sell my DP, but to otherwise continue to play on the original, now-damaged playfield (or unless it continued to chip so badly that it was unplayable by whatever metric). Does that sound like the right idea?
As far as preventative measures with washers, is there any evidence to suggest a washer material, nylon vs metal, that is less damaging/more protective? I would think that metal would have a higher chance of still causing a problem, but maybe there is no issue with them in general? Certainly compared to the edge of a ball guide dug into the clear at the factory, ha! Wondering whether an order (likely from Marco’s?) of Mylar should include any special washers.
Yeah, that's the idea. Fix the damage as much as possible and store the replacement playfield as insurance.
Metal washers are more durable and have rounded edges, so they shouldn't be a problem, but you can put a mylar ring under them first if that's a concern.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Cool, thank you Spoke to the distributor I got the DP machine from, and he said I had to contact Stern support myself, so I have sent an email to parts.service with photos. Fingers crossed!
Wow, that's not the kind of support you would expect from a distributor when you have a playfield defect and it's chipping.
Quoted from zeldarioid:I was a bit surprised by it myself, but oh well. The parts email replied and said they’ve forwarded things to Quality department and will get back to me after review. If I have the same channels or chances of communication as the distro would’ve, then *shrug*, but yeah.
But you don't. The DISTRIBUTOR has way more leverage because they buy dozens or hundreds of machines. You have the leverage of ONE machine. So, yeah, any distributor worth their salt would have helped get this resolved. Who'd you buy this from?
Quoted from zeldarioid:Maybe the thought of waiting to physically replace the playfield until the original continued to degrade? That still seems like a legitimate thought process, and what I would expect anyone to do? It isn’t my fault that Stern produced a playfield that started failing so quickly, and for $8k, shouldn’t have to eat their failure at any point?
Yeah, that's the sketch part. It's completely logical, but probably best left unsaid.
For the record, I've had two bad playfields replaced in the last 20 years. A NIB Simpsons Pinball Party with the black keylines almost missing and a jjPotC with the well-documented pooling and chipping problems. In both cases the blank replacement playfield sent under warranty was reserved for a swap in the indefinite future because playfield swaps are a pain. So it's not an abnormal decision. Just because I didn't swap them immediately doesn't mean I didn't receive a defective playfield warranting replacement.
Now, if Stern or JJP would have offered a populated swap, I would have happily done that immediately. But they didn't. They left the labor to me, and with that, it's my choice on WHEN I do their work for free to swap the playfield.
Quoted from zeldarioid:He said otherwise he is basically just a messenger, running communication back and forth between me and Stern, so eh. Not pleased with that service, for sure
If he thinks his role is a messenger, he's very uninformed about what a distributor's job is. A good dist will get involved if there's a warranty problem and use their clout as someone who buys a lot of product to help get customer issues resolved directly. Who WAS this? I can't imagine it was a top tier dist like Tilt Amusements, Game Exchange, Hemispheres, etc.
Quoted from zeldarioid:Update on my playfield chipping issue: Stern has replied and asked for my mailing address to send me an unpopulated playfield under warranty! That was surprisingly (very pleasantly so) quick! I don’t know yet when to expect it to ship, but I at least have confirmation that they intend to replace the defective playfield
Great news, and quick! Glad you got a good outcome.
Quoted from MasterBlaster:Hey All! Looks like my trough eject was set too high. 225 plays on the ticker. I took the eject setting down to 190 (factory set at 220). Is there anything I can do mitigate the flaking of the clear coat?
[quoted image]
Keep your power down, order some cliffys and while you're waiting, cut a piece of mylar that looks kind of like a pair of pants and cover your shooter lane from the switch to just past where the ball comes out. Clean the shooter lane with rubbing alcohol, let it dry then put the mylar on to protect your shooter lane. You can even leave it on under the cliffys when they come.
These are the paper backing for various mylar protectors I've cut. You can get bulk mylar from pinball life here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=mylar_24inch
Get yourself at least 24" x 24". It's great to have around for on-demand projects like this.
shooter-lane-templates (resized).jpg
Quoted from Smack:2 of the GI bulbs near my flippers are reacting to the flippers being engaged. I don't think it is a short but more so the vibration that is causing them to flicker as I can reproduce by gently poking the bulbs. It the the bulbs closest to the base of each flipper that are giving me trouble.
I am going to try to reseat the bulbs but if this is not the fix do I have to remove the flipper assemblies to get at the wiring for these? Sure looks like it but I wanted to check with anyone who's done this before.
Cheers
If you're talking about the ones under the plastic guides on the left and right inlanes next to the flippers, just unscrew the two screws holding each plastic guide, take them off, and pop the bulbs out. Replacing them with comets fixes this most of the time because Stern uses ultra-cheap bulbs. If it doesn't pinching the socket a little for better grip does.
Quoted from Phantasize:After the GI disappearing a couple of times, it now doesn't turn on at all (still only the bottom is missing). But i discovered this technician alert:[quoted image]
You have a bad bulb or shorted socket. Just went through this in detail helping someone with the same problem in another thread last week. Usually it will give you another message to tell you what area of the machine it thinks has the overcurrent problem. Has it popped up with an additional message?
If not, you need to narrow down where the problem is yourself. MIDDLE OR BOTTOM GI (not upper) is on Node 8 on deadpool. Try removing CN15 from Node 8, which is the board up by the flippers when the playfield is raised (the actual boards are physically the same, just different stuff plugged into them). Does the message go away? Then your short is somewhere in your mid/bottom playfield GI. Remove ALL the GI bulbs in the middle/lower section and reconnect CN15 (I'd check the ones by the flipper first, especially if they're blinking from flipper vibration).
Is the message still gone? Then one or more of those bulbs is shorted.
Is the message still there? Then one of those GI sockets has a short. Look for a broken spring or debris (errand loose solder, metal spring bits, etc) in the sockets, or a pinched wire.
If disconnecting CN15 doesn't clear the error, then it's in your controlled lights, CN1, CN2, CN3, CN5, CN14. Unplug those one at a time and reboot until the message goes away and you know which one is causing the problem, then check the lights connected to that.
node-9-connectors (resized).jpg
Quoted from Phantasize:Thank you so much for your detailed post. When I test the node boards, it says it's the bottom GI.
I'll try following your advice, and see if I can narrow it down.
So bottom GI is all the ones in the graphic I posted that are labeled 151 (don't forget the apron spotlights, too).
Post once you figure out if it's a bulb or socket that was the root problem. Stern has gotten EXTREMELY cheap with bulbs and sockets to save a few more pennies, so this is a recurring problem with Spike machines and a PAIN to figure out due to lame-ass on-screen diagnostics Stern is too lazy/cheap to flesh out.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:That’s what I am thinking. Love the premium translite, but not enough to pay extra. Thanks for your feedback.
Premium is worth the money. It's not just a ramp. The real drop targets and integrated disco ball + disco loops are a substantial upgrade to the play experience.
Quoted from northerndude:Everything is costing more to buy and Stern is still getting cheaper. They should have a full, easy diagnostic tool by now FFS.
ESPECIALLY since Gomez worked on Pinball 2000, which had graphical diagnostics that told you EXACTLY which bulb was the problem on a map of the playfield, on screen, TWENTY years ago. He knows better. Stern knows better. This is a cheap/lazy/"don't care, it's good enough" issue.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:That’s some great points. Plus so far I have only played the pro and I doubt I will get a chance to play the premium. Also not a fan of the premium art work. The pro at least doesn’t seem bare bones compared to other pro vs premium games. Not a marvel fan but damn the game is fun. Thanks for your help.
I hate the Premium translite, too. We swapped a pro translite onto the Premium. Made it all better.
Terry at pinball life can order you a pro translite when you get the premium in.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:All the blue on the premium cabinet is so out of place and too much for me. Pro is the best IMO artwork wise. This is definitely a big plus for the pro vs the premium. You don’t play the artwork but definitely have to look at it.
Slide it between two other pins, change the translite to pro, problem solved.
You'll thank me later.
(Although I have to say the LE is stunning in person. That's a more expensive workaround, though. I don't think you're that crazy...yet.)
Quoted from Phantasize:So last night i got around to debugging my DP Premium bottom GI issue. I followed vireland 's cue, and started by removing CN14 from node board 8. The overcurrent protection error disappeared. So i put the connector back on, and the error reappeared.
I then removed all of the LED's in the bottom GI section, and disconnected the 2 in the apron. The error was still there, which led me to believe it was one of the sockets. I did a continuity test on the sockets, and sure enough i measured a short.
I visually inspected all of the sockets from above, but was unable to find anything wrong. I then visualy inspected all of the visible sockets under the playfield, but everything looked fine.
So i had no choice but to remove both of the flipper mechs, in order to gain access to the remaining three sockets.
When removing the second flipper mech, i saw something that looked suspicious. There was something odd between the two "layers" of the socket. Turned out it was a little blob of solder, shorting the main part of the socket with the bottom part! I guess during production, some solder was dropped, and it had landed really unfortunate. I scratched it off, booted the machine, and the error was gone! SUCCESS!
Thank you very much to everyone chiming in, and helping me find the problem. Strange that it wasn't an issue untill now, but the main thing is that i got it sorted.
Pinside rocks!
Thanks for reporting back what the solution was for your overcurrent error. Glad you're back in business!
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Hey Guys quick little issue im having. When the ball goes down the right orbit from the pops like on first plunge. The ball immediately and consistently goes stdm and drains. Anyone have an idea on how to fix this? The game is level and other than that game plays 100%
[quoted image]
What's your playfield pitch? Also, have you put a straightedge on the playfield from left to right to make sure your playfield isn't bowed very slightly?
Quoted from MasterBlaster:OOF! That stings. I think it’s evil that they tell you how many points you lost. Bad cricket, Stern. (JK, I actually think it’s pretty great, even if it makes a player feel bad.)
Totally in line with the Deadpool character. Love it being on the champion boards.
Quoted from RonSwanson:Mine is well leveled but still has that problem. I set up a 2 second ball save from when that ball is released. Not everyone who plays my game is capable of nudging to save the ball and SDTM at that time is not fun. They have that ball save setting in the menu, so I assume Stern thought it might be a problem.
Is your playfield very slightly concave left to right? You can check it with a straightedge left to right.
Quoted from RonSwanson:I used a straight edge with a flashlight behind it and couldn't detect a dip. I had fewer SDTMs than mattyk (perhaps 1 in 5), but enough to be annoying. The very brief ball save feature has been nice for that 20%.
Then you might just be like a quarter or half turn of the leg screw off of true level (true level being the level that deadpool needs to play right). I'd mess with that. Very small adjustments, though. I never had Li'l Deadpool release SDTM on the pro, but it was dead-level with no concave or convex action left to right on the playfield.
Quoted from DaddyManD:Hi, Any photos or practical advice on how best to "bend" the forks of auto-plunger without breaking it. I have this same intermittently weak auto-plunge issue. thanks!
You just need to bend it a little, so there should be no danger of breaking it. Put a ball in the shooter lane and see where the forks of the auto launch are relative to the ball. They should be evenly on the left and right side of the ball, so the ball is right in the center.
Also, if you have excessive left to right movement of the autolaunch forks if you slide them left to right, you can take up that slack with an E clip or clips to keep it dead center.
Quoted from wtuttle:Hi Vireland,
Thanks again for your idea on this. It took me a month to get the switch test done (pathetic, I know) and it turns out the top-right (Domino) rollover is wonky. Works "some" of the time, but not often. Checked below and no wires missing. So I guess I will just 'play with it' and see if I can get it dialed-in again. Really sucks to play without the Katana ramp!
If there are any bright ideas on how to fix a switch of this nature, I'd love to hear them--I am one of those sad cases who gets a little down when my pins are not working. Need to "embrace the opportunity" to learn something new.
Sometimes the cheap switches Stern uses are just bad/intermittent too early. They cost so little to replace, it's not worth additional time if a wire bend or something easy doesn't get it back up. Just buy a new one and be done with it.
Quoted from wtuttle:Thanks. That's a standard rollover-switch assembly I can order from Marco's? Not sure if I go "right" or "left"--they are sold out of " left" at the moment ...Seems like an awkward place to get at with a screwdriver. Thanks again for the help.
If it's the rollover right at the top of the right orbit (end of the ball launch lane, too) before it crests into the rollover lane area, that's switch 71, which is 500-9935-03, which is a left switch assembly. Pinball life has them here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=500-9935-03
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:Back with more questions because what else am I going to do when waiting two+ horrible months.
Question about Comet's Deadpool kit: Does the kit include bulbs to swap out all of the GI in the machine? Photos seems to only focus down low where the questionable reds are located. Not a fan of cool whites (which I assume come stock) so I'd want to buy extras to swap them all out if there's not already enough in the kit.
Regarding adding powered mods such as the extra spots, trough lighting, flipper buttons, etc. Is there a point where you need to worry about power draw? I assume most of these will just be alligator clipped onto the nearest GI sockets?
You should always know your additional amp draw because you can damage an expensive node board if you go over, but most people just clip and pray.
Quoted from Doctor6:So I played this in a pro on location and loved it. Debating between this pro and tmnt pro. Your thoughts? If I'm going to do only pro, wouldn't tmnt pro be the better choice?
TMNT Pro has more to offer than Deadpool Pro. No contest.
Quoted from nicoy3k:Hi guys, seriously considering making DP pro the third game in my small collection. My #1 concern is lastability in said small collection. I don’t want a game that is going to lock me into one path to advance through the game/score. Can you guys speak to the variety in the code? I’ve read some comments of people getting sick of “playing the same 3 modes” over and over. Thank you !
I'd seriously look for a Premium on Deadpool. Disco loops, working disco ball, drop targets and the orbit feeding to the right flipper can't be underestimated. Provides a much better overall experience than a Pro. Used you're looking at maybe $1200 more than a new Pro for a HUO Prem.
There are a lot of ways to attack the game. If you're playing the same three modes every time, you're doing it wrong. I played it a LOT for well over a year and never got tired of it. I'd have it back again sometime in the future, and there are plenty of pins I can't say that about.
Quoted from nicoy3k:not really in the market for a premium, looking to add a pro budget game at the moment. It’s between DP or IMDN
If that's the choice, then IMDN Pro all the way. DP needs a Premium. IMDN can go either way.
Quoted from punkin:I have a DP pro and i'd have it before any imdn, inc LE any day.
I usually respect things you say but can't do that on this occasion.
Something to work on. You'll get there. ;}
Quoted from Doctor6:Iron Maiden is fun, but my god, the theme. Yeesh. Dp by a landslide for me
That is a consideration. If you hate Maiden, it may be insurmountable.
Quoted from Smack:Has anyone had issues with air balls coming off of the slings? My pitch is pretty steep sitting close to 7 degrees but that seems to be the recommended angle. I have turned down the power on the slings some but it is still occurring and I don't wanna nerf those slings further if I don't have to.
The biggest problem this is causing is that the balls are hitting my newly installed spotlights, and sometimes it will pop a bulb out onto the playfield.
I am certainly not opposed to bringing the pitch down if that will help but I was curious if anyone else has run into this and how it was solved. It also seems like the ball is catching air off of the left sling way more than the right side as it will launch into the right outlane or the shooter lane sometimes.
If you use the half-width electrical tape band around the bulb bases they won't pop out of the spotlights.
Quoted from Smack:Brilliant! I am gonna try this right now. It can't hurt.
Here's a how-to I made about it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506
Quoted from Yesh23:Does anybody know where I can get the decal to make the chimichanga truck 3-D?
You mean for the fire on top like this?
Quoted from Happy81724:Might upgrade our pro to an LE. What’s a fair price for a very low play LE and is it worth it?
Deadpool LE is a beautiful machine in person. If you get one, be sure to ask for the LE vinyl record that came with each one.
Either the Prem or LE is a fantastic upgrade from a Pro, though. You'd be happy with either.
Quoted from Happy81724:Cool, I am going to buy it. I didn’t ask for the vinyl record but I’ll double check. He is an older guy and the original owner. It only has 39 plays so I assume everything is with it
The vinyl record soundtracks were shipped to LE owners after they got their machine, so he may have put it aside when it arrived in the mail some time later. Definitely want to try to get it.
Quoted from Happy81724:I just messaged him. If he didn’t submit that card or his distributor not get it for him can I still get one? Looks like it expired in 2019
I do not know the answer to that question. I thought distributors were in charge of making sure the LPs got to their LE customers, but we only had a Prem, so I'm not 100% sure.
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:Related question, but do the cassettes come with the premiums still?
It's still listed in the feature matrix on Stern's site, but probably worth asking your distributor to be sure:
https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Deadpool-Pinball-Features-Matrix.pdf
Quoted from Blackzarak:Can someone help out I have some pinstadiums and I hooked it on to wolverine flasher and they use to flash but now all of sudden they don’t flash anymore and just stay on. So I try to troubleshoot and notice the following flashers never really flash and doesn’t dim out as well they seem to stay lit. I posted a picture when I reboot the game 2 flashers come on right away and just stay lit can someone confirm this on other Deadpool’s...can’t seem to figuer this out
[quoted image]
Either shorted wires or the transistor driving that flasher is shorted open is my guess. Does it still stay on if you disconnect the pinstadium?
Quoted from SLeRiC:Anyone interested in the Deadpool LE LP Vinyl Record ?
Taking Offers!
Can accept Crypto & Venmo.
Are you taking trades? I have a vintage Disco Duck 45 with jacket. Might part with the CB Savage 45 if you really sweet-talk the deal.
Quoted from Eskaybee:Is it me (or Pinside?) but pictures, avatars, thumbnails don’t seem to be loading. Both on phone and computer. So either it’s Pinside or my router/ISP.
It's been messed up since at least yesterday. Started with the ads.
Quoted from onemilemore:Ok so quick question: Got through all 3 battles tonight and expected scoop to be lit for Sauron. But Berzerker Rage was going and that seemed to override everything. Een when hitting the unlit scoop, no Sauron.
Is this intended or a bug?
You needed to time out berzerker rage first.
Quoted from nicoy3k:Stdm guys admitted they were dead wrong on their DP review. Watch their review of the reviews video. This became Greg’s like favorite game.
I *hated* Deadpool until somewhere in the mid .9x update. Before that - sucked. After that, turned a corner and just got better and better. It's a GREAT game now.
Quoted from mrgregb123:Washers are absolutely, positively not necessary. The only fix needed to correct the issue of the ball rail digging in is to simply loosen the nut that fastens it under the playfield. Nothing more.
That's a good way to have even more of your playfield scraped off at the ends of the guide from the guide flexing back and forth. You need something - mylar, rubber, washer between the guide and the playfield or it will damage it over time.
Quoted from nicoy3k:Colossus jackpot shot... are you supposed to hit that from the mini orbit? Seems like it doesn’t get enough speed to hit it?
Yes, you can loop around and hit the target when the ball exits. It's not easy, but do-able.
Quoted from dougPDX:Just got my premium a few days ago - my target appears to be off. I've tried simply pushing it back toward the flippers, but at moderate force it's not moving. I get nervous about applying too much force and having something break. Is everyone else able to simply move this without lifting the playfield, unscrewing, etc.?
Congrats on a great game choice. Deadpool Premium is AWESOME.
It's good that the target is tight. In that place you can use a wide flathead screwdriver between the left side of the bracket and the stainless ball guide to gently leverage the target towards the right and straighten it out. Just take it slow and kind of pull the target as you move the other side by using the steel ball guide wall as a leverage point for the screwdriver.
An anti-sway bracket for this target is a good long-term idea.
Quoted from dougPDX:Also, autolaunch is really struggling. In slow mo, it looks like the striker hits off center and the ball bounces off the left rail about 3" from the launch point. Is there is an easy adjustment for this or do I just need to get my Cliffy's expedited?
Thanks!
With the ball sitting in the trough, look at the forks of the auto launch and bend them (they bend with a little force) so the forks are centered on the ball. If there's slop left to right (both forks are mounted on a rod), you can insert some E clips on the rod to fill up the slack so the forks don't move left to right.
Quoted from JAXPinball:I have an April 26, 2021 build and Snnnkkt target looks to be both angled toward the player too much and is overlapping the ball guide, almost touching it. Doesn't look optimal and will require adjustment.
If someone could throw me a bone to the link with the perfect setup, that would be a huge time saver.
There's a link in the topic index at the top of every page in the thread with pictures and Gomez's comments about correct alignment.
Quoted from roar:I'll take Sabretooth without a Team-up, he's the easiest for me.
Sabretooth you can kill hands-off when Li'l Deadpool ball-save is running. The pops kill him automagically. By the time ball save is over, he's dead, no effort required.
Quoted from Mattyk:I find the snikt shot the easiest to make when the ball comes out of the far right lane on the Pro, ricocheting slightly off the post sleeve down to the left flipper. That angle seems to work best for me.
Sometimes I can hit it with a slow roller in the left inlane. Hardly ever after a cradle.
What do you guys think is the highest percentage shot type for the snikt?
Left inlane to left flipper is my highest probability. I try to just barely delay a wolverine shot. In mechsuit multiball, I can make it quite a bit since I get a lot of chances. I *have* done it from the right flipper, but never on purpose.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I’m super bored with the stern blade art...
Let’s try something else;
(The print company screwed up the size, so they’re sending me new ones... no prob)
Mods are fun, let’s drink to that! Maybe some gin made from Ryan Reynolds tears??![quoted image]
I like the idea, but it might be too many busy colors to match the playfield and plastics.
Is that printed on vinyl?
Quoted from Chosen_S:Yes vinyl, It’s glossy , I had ordered matte, the 2nd print will be more durable
I like all the color personally, I wanted it to be really busy
Oh, don't get me wrong, I think it looks cool, but just wonder about it looking out of place in the machine. Definitely post some pictures once you get it installed!
Quoted from maffewl:Sharing another way to bling out your Deadpool that I just started making. Mirrored throwing star "washers".
Link here if interested: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/114660
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
What a cool idea. Do like! Although I can see them creating a possible ball trap if they're used elsewhere besides the ball return without thinking about placement.
I'd double the price, though. $5 for 4 is crazy cheap. At $10/4 the value is still there.
Quoted from maffewl:Appreciate the comments! Regarding price, I try to keep my mods inexpensive so that Pinsiders can benefit. However, seeing the response so far, I may need to re-evaluate to adjust for demand, material, and my effort in creating.
That's what I'm getting at. Just the TIME to make and manage them is worth probably triple what you're asking. I'm still struggling with pricing at the monastery and my initial impulse is to under-price (Laysah always tells me I'm not charging enough), but then I get into the nuts and bolts of making something and getting it out and wonder what I was thinking, so I'm getting better at setting a realistic price out of the gate now (but internally I always think it's too high until I start working in fulfillment and realize it's about right).
$10, at least. Once you get into it, you may find a little more is even justified. Meditate on it and the answer will come.
Quoted from punkin:The bloke who taught me to run a business told me there is two ways i can set my pricing. The first is to charge what you think you can get people to pay and sell a few for a large profit.
The second was to set your pricing on your cost/overheads plus a profit that you need to keep going, grow your business and make a wage. Then sell a fucking stack.
I went with the second model because that's much more the way i want the world to work.
It certainly changed the supply chain here when i stated selling distillation equipment. The big chains that were selling clamps and gaskets were selling them on the first model. A gasket that was $6 here when i opened and started selling at $1.10 (and still making good money) is now $1.10 in those big chains all over Australia. In more than 5 years i have not had to raise the prices on them.
Lets hope maffewl feels the same as i do.
Yeah, but $6 for a rubber gasket is obviously robbery. Once the mold is made they cost almost nothing to make. Using that model for these, he'd be asking $30 per star.
Quoted from Mattyk:Red looks great. No coin door
The LEs are a orangey-red with metal flake in it and they look fantastic in person.
Quoted from UCFKnight71:Is it still recommended to move the Snikt target over?
If it's shifted from the orientation Gomez designed (as shown in the picture with the correct orientation), then yes.
Quoted from Pinash:Does Deadpool suffer from flipper fade at all (I haven't gotten to play mine for long durations yet)? Is there any benefit to flipper coil fans on DP?
Deadpool does have fade over time, more on the left than the right flipper, and it is definitely noticeable once it fades. How fast it gets to fade and how hard it fades is down to play style. Stern Spike machines are awesome for holding without really heating up, but if you preemptively flip as the ball is bouncing around close to the flippers, it will heat up faster. If you flip only when needed it will take longer. But if you play for 60 minutes or more at a go without breaks, you will hit some degree of fade. The Tibetan Breeze kit eliminates the issue no matter how long you play or your play style.
Quoted from hiker2099:I have fans on my AIQ premium and they are definitely needed. However, I don't have them on my Deadpool because they aren't needed. Not sure why the difference but no problem getting ball up katana shot after an hour of playing on DP but AIQ Black Widow ramp was having a hard time after an hour.
Just my experience.
It's more subtle on Deadpool because there aren't extreme ramp angles like Captain Marvel or the Black Widow ramp of AIQ. In my experience the DP fade manifests in more bricked shots later in long game sessions as the timing changes very slightly from the fade. It also became harder to backhand the left ramp. But how much or how fast you see any of it is dependent on play style and also PF pitch setup. It's certainly more subtle than a game like Stranger Things with very in your face fade that comes on hard.
Quoted from PfRedflyer:Hey this might be a dumb question but isn't there supposed to be a handle on the back of the playfield to remove it for maintenance? I looked at a couple of tutorials for removing the playfield because I have art blades and pinstadiums I want to install but there's just nothing back there. If thats how it's supposed to be how can I remove the playfield safely?
[quoted image]
Some have it, some don't.
You can do art blade installs using the wet method so you don't have to remove the playfield. Much easier and more forgiving.
Quoted from redman822:Yeah I have that problem too - I'm at the point of removing them...
This pretty much stops bulbs from popping out:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506
Quoted from bigguybbr:I just had one of the legs on the microswitch snap off for the hell house hole. It seems like any of the VUK switches on Marco and pinball life are out of stock. Anyone know where I can find a replacement?
Quoted from JPloof:Good old stern quality control. Getting protectors on and examine playfield before I really dive in. Coin door was only attached with a single bolt, so one trip to the hardware store already. Now I’ve noticed a loose long screw on the sling and found the culprit. I don’t know the exact name for this (is it a tnut?) or the size, so hopeful someone can point me in the right direction before I head out.
[quoted image]
It likely was installed, then when they put the screw in from the other side, the didn't line it up, forced it, and it pushed the T-Nut out.
Quoted from blizz81:Yeah - and it seems the replacement caps from the one source people have been ordering are approaching iffy levels, so I imagine another source will need to be found. And the “how to fix it” includes “this is a little iffy to desolder, try not to lift the pads”.
I guess Stern might still have some PCBs with older caps but I imagine they are gradually running out of those. Seems like they’re buying time sending out power supplies to people when they know the actual problem.
I don't think it's that Stern has any PDBs with the early-mid 2021 caps, but that even with the "bad" or "low spec" late 2021 and 2022 caps, you can still have a less than 20% chance (or so) of getting a PDB with enough caps that are over 8500uF that the PDB functions as before and the power supply doesn't click. So people that get a non-clicking replacement just got lucky.
There are some other caps I'm looking at, but the only thing I'm not sure of is how critical the ripple current rating is. I've found better brand caps with the same specs overall, but different ripple current rating, so I need to figure that out and if it checks out, try those.
At the same time, I have an 48V N3 Meanwell power supply on the way that can handle a 350% temporary inrush, which might make the machines operate normally with no hiccup mode kicking in, even with the crappier cap PDBs.
Quoted from Bundy:Naked with no rubber is always best.
Until the bill comes due.
Quoted from BrokenChair:I did my best to line up my mine with yours the K you your target matches the decal on the playfield.. here are pics of mine, and for some reason I cannot get the shot to go…
Maybe I need
It’s practice ….
[quoted image][quoted image]
I got better at hitting it pretty reliably by just shooting for the wolverine spinner a little late instead of trying to hit the target.
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:Anyone know what causes the Lil Deadpool drop decals to do this?
My middle one did this and I put on higher tension springs as sometimes the drops wouldn’t go down on direct hits and after I did that, no issues. Then I played today and this happened on the right one but no issues with drops going down.
I hate that you can’t buy just the Lil Deadpool decals but this is a recent NIB, so maybe my distro can just order these for me.
Thanks for the help.
[quoted image]
You can re-stick it with some 3M 467MP adhesive.
Also, your goodie bag has replacement target decals in it. Check the goodie bag thread for a picture of the deadpool goodie bag contents:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/goodie-bag-photos
Edit: I see you found the replacements. Scan them so you have the art so you can make your own in the future with mylar and 467MP.
Quoted from Bikerjoy:Got my NIB Pro a couple of days ago. Build date Aug 31. No issues with targets or Katana post. I do however have an issue with the shooter rod. My GUESS is that it strikes the ball way too low. A full plunge barely makes it out of the shooter lane. The auto launcher works fine. Any ideas what to check / what I can do to fix it?
Take a slo-mo video with your phone over the shooter lane while you plunge the ball, then review to see if anything jumps out at you.
Quoted from Bikerjoy:Well it turns out that the plunger is located WAY off center to the right. I have adjusted the plate (the two red screws) and the shooter assembly (the three Phillips screws) as far to the left as it will go, but I am still about 2mm off center to the right. Comparing the location of the plate vs the cabinet on my Godzilla, there is a 3-4mm gap between the plate the the cab on GZ but essentially nothing on DP. This causes the ball to bounce three time between the metal plate and the guide rail on the left. So hard that the plate is already severely dented (not by the through eject) after only about 50 games.
I assume the red screws on the plate (item 15 in the Cabinet parts) are self boring wood screws, or are there threaded inserts in the cab? I will check later tonight, but I assume the only solution would be to drill new holes in the plate and use self-boring wood screws to reposition the plate further to the left?
Is your playfield shifted within the cabinet? That will move the shooter lane relative to the shooter rod, too.
Quoted from BrokenChair:I’ve never come close to beating the game but my high score so far is 6.5 Billion; got lucky that game..
I find the modes extremely hard ; this is a fantastic pin I just wish it had more villains and wish the level 2 villains were different …
It definitely feels the loss of the two they cut from the game.
Quoted from tedwasright:Hey everyone. I checked under KEY POSTS but didn't see anything about this.
I feel like the scoop power sends the ball ultimately to the right outline. I was going to lover the power a bit. Anyone else do this? Any other similar adjustments you would suggest?
You can adjust the power until you get a better kickout, or tilt one side of the scoop by putting a washer underneath one side under the pf to direct the eject the way you want it to go by angling the scoop mech very slightly. It doesn't take much.
Quoted from VinnyBlanc:I’m hearing a persistent what sounds like “blaster” or “ray gun” effect throughout gameplay that I don’t recall from the previous few hundred plays. Anyone know what’s switch/popper /etc this might be tied to so I can see if something is jammed/stuck? Everything else (other than the sound) appears to be functioning properly.
Glass off.
Diagnostic menu
Switch test mode
pull white post inside coin door frame so you have power with the door open
smack the playfield firmly with an open palm (or fist if the clearance is tight) in many places and see if the vibration triggers a switch. If it does, adjust that switch so it's less sensitive. Retest until no switches trigger from vibration.
Quoted from NoSkills:Does anyone have a latest run prem and pinmonk fans? Do the original cheaper ones fit or do you need the ones that attach to the eos bracket?
Standard Tibetan Breeze cooling kits (the ones with the plastic brackets) work fine, though on some machines like LZ, they're tight due to things mounted close to the flipper plate. The ZEN kits (stainless steel ones) are for a more universal mount and quieter performance. The Standard are quieter than anything out there EXCEPT the ZENs, which are essentially silent. Both cool well.
Quoted from TheTilt:Hi everyone. First time owner here (of a Pro). Quick question (which I’m sure applies to any Stern game):
I notice this swarf building up inside the cabinet (see picture). Conspicuously under the left flipper.
It's likely the coil stop. The chunky flakes of brass are a dead giveaway, and on deadpool the coil stop is on the outside edge on the left flipper. Take the coil stop off (two screws) and inspect. The center is probably loose.
As long as you're doing one, I'd just do them both. Pinball Life's ones are very reliable and like $5 each.
Quoted from TheTilt:Thank you so much for the answer, Pin Monk (btw, thank you also for your products, I got your silent cooling fan installed a couple of weeks back and it is awesome!). The only thing is: it’s not brass. It’s a darker shade of metal. And the coil stop is not loose (yet). I’ll replace them anyway, but I wonder if you’d replace the plunger as well.
Usually it's some goldish color. It's hard to tell with the lighting, but it seems to be the stop ring metal. Do you see any wear on the plunger shaft? That moves through a sleeve, so it doesn't have metal on metal except when it hits the coil stop at the end. I'd just do the coil stops, clean the cabinet (so you can see if you're still shedding) and call it good.
Quoted from jackd104:My DP from October run didn’t come with an apron card like the one pictured, with the DP logo. Anyone else? I’d like to use that to replace the horrible insider connect card that came by default.
[quoted image]
Here's a quick one I made from a Deadpool icon on the web so you can make your own. It's color, but you can print in black and white and lighten it to match the stock one if you don't want color.
Fedex Office/Kinkos sells a yellow cardstock that is a good match for the OG Stern cards and they sell it by the sheet. I think it's called sunlight yellow or something like that (it's been a while...).
DEADPOOL - CARD.pdfYou're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinmonk.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/3?tu=pinmonk and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Forest Hill, MD