That looks like a cliffy protector that goes under the ball guide at the entrance to the Katana shot just to the right of Lil Deadpool. That was made to prevent the front of that ball guide from rubbing on the playfield.

Newer DPs have a cutout on the bottom of that guide to prevent this.

So you'll have to loosen the front of that guide, shim it back in there and tighten it down again.

Looks like a katana lock cliffy that someone really tightened down way more than was needed. How the Hell that ever got loose is beyond me.

I'm not sure how, but even with the mild adhesive on the protector, mine worked it's way loose over a thousand games or so. Maybe it's just how often and hard that edge of the rail gets hit repeatedly during games (or at least my games).

The one in that picture was also over-tightened so maybe the edge sticking up more actually put it in the path of the ball?

The Katana can 100% be taken off of the playfield. There are a few screws on the outside of the handle and 2 more further up the blade. Once those are out remove the connectors to the boards in the handle and you are now part way to becoming a ninja. If you have a LOTR you can dual wield.

He's talking about side armour on the cab i think.

The reports were that the internal piece was cardboard, so should come out easily.

I think you are right.

Like Mike said, it's a protector that goes under this rail to prevent chipping.

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That looks like a cliffy its to stop the Katana guide digging into the playfield, I chose to put a small washer under the rail leg instead.

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So, do we think it's the cliffy then?

I'd go that route for the owner that posted (esp since the cliffy is bent some) if there wasn't already PF damage that the cliffy was covering up. If there is...maybe the cliffy can be bent back flat.

You didn't sign it YoursTrulySarcasticallyPunkin

Apologies I was not clear enough.Yes I was referring to the side Armor.Is it an image on the powder coating or fixed from behind
Cheers

Fixed from behind mate, in fact I think it’s cardboard so you could easily remove it from the rail, powder the rails and reattach.

Apologies if I'm mistaken, but weren't you also looking into creating some kind of disco ball mod? I'd love someone to make the disco ball and light show more pronounced it should really be a dazzling spectacle in this game but it's kinda flat from factory.

looking forward to your reveal

No mistake, yeah that’s me, I’ll be revealing this coming Friday, the mods evolved a lot from my original idea, which was to make the disco lightshow better and enhance the scoop so it grabbed your attention more than the single flasher does from factory. The amount of times I had a mode and multiball running and could have hit the scoop for a quicker final blow

I’ll share a little info now though, I’ve been working with swinks and @stumblor, so the design and interaction is first class which is a given when you’ve got these two guys involved. As a result of that I’ve been able to refine the physical design and make it sing and dance in a lot more ways than just a scoop/disco light enhancement.

Whether or not I get the full disco upgrade out with the scoop mod I’ll know closer to Friday as I’ve been hit with delays and shifting timelines about due to the wife spending the later half of last year in and out of hospital from about August onwards.

So it may come in two parts, a main mod and a small add on. I’ve currently got my discoball lightshow reflecting around my game room, where as factory its pretty much contained in the top left corner, so it’s a big improvement for sure. I tried a tonne of things but the biggest problem with Deadpool is the lack of places to hide lamps, even tried a laser or anything for that matter, it’s all very open and exposed with every inch of the playfield used for shots, so the scoop mod allows for additonal light sources to be hidden while looking factory.

This coming Friday I’ll reveal all though, Deadpool deserves some serious mod love, it got overlooked a little with a lack of enhancing mods.

Spoiler alert - it's looking hot.

Prem, pro, both??

All models (Pro, Prem & LE)

Currently one mod for all models, as mentioned above there maybe a Prem/LE version also available for Pro owners with an existing discoball mod in the Prem/LE disco hall location.

However that’s massively dependant on if I can get it perfect before Friday as the wife’s got her pre op screening this coming Tuesday. If not it will come shortly after the roll out and won’t affect the total cost, basically if it comes all together for Friday the total cost will be the same as it coming later.

Finally updated my game and now the insider connected doesn’t work. Says I need to install a mini sd card? Updated my turtles also and no issue there… Deadpool has a 16gb card is that not enough?
Edit: fired it up this morning and it’s working fine now. I don’t think one of the boards updated or something, strange but meh working!

Yes. It is just printed cardboard, easily removed. If you have a good powdercoater, could you please pass the details on to me. We want to get ours done too.

Thanks.

Kevin up at Kempsey, i'll PM you his number. You would have met him at pinfest, he brings a machine each year and is one of the Woopi Freeballers. Pinball people and does great work.

So after more investigation, it looks like my OOF switches aren’t recognizing that they are “up”. The optoswitches either don’t have power (I think more likely) or are broken (less likely).

Thanks Con for the clarifcation. I will be doing the rounds of local powder coaters on Friday and will keep you posted. Cheers

Thanks very much!

Cheers Dougy!

Can't wait!!!!

Thank you brother, appreciate the positive words. The wife’s not been too well this week and we had some bad news from the surgeon Tuesday but hopefully today we have those issues addressed and I can get the disco enhancement finished today/tonight.

Oh man, positive vibes out your way..family first...we can wait

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-hellhouse-scoop-mod#post-7565136

MAXIMUM EFFORT! Hope all you fellow Deadpool owners love this, it’s been a long journey!

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So tempting - looks great - I need to see where I could put my Colossus figure since it looks like he might be visually blocked.

My buddy who beta tested and did the pro install test for me has a Colossus, he moved it over to the right slightly so he’s stood with one foot straddling the wolverine orbit a little.

Admittedly I didn’t give the figures people may have added aftermarket much thought, as I tend not to add them myself and after seeing Daveys work on Godzilla I wanted to give Deadpool the same love and crazy light show.

I don’t have a photo of my mates game but I just took this photo for anyone like yourself mate, I’m 6’1/6’2 with the phone at my playing eyeline, gives you an idea if Colossus would be blocked/visible if moved to the right slightly.

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looks great in the game and it was a pleasure working with you to design the mod to your vision - you have some crazy and wonderful ideas and this has turned out awesome, well done.

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Parts coming in for first two batches! Cmon Deadpool owners where’s the love for DP.

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I love DP.

I just don't love that.

Love that you've done it, but not for me.

Understandable, we all have different tastes, crazy light shows aren’t for everyone. Just as action figures and toys aren’t for others. We are lucky to have so much choice in this hobby.

Agreed

Has anyone had an issue with their Hellhouse scoop where it registers on the switch test but not in game? I looked at the micro switch and it clicks, none of the wires seem to be loose, and every other shot seems to register, but even after selecting battles it has to ball search to eject out. I'm thinking of replacing the micro switch but it seems like odd behavior since the switch seems fine and the switch tests register.

When you test, are you testing with a ball and not your finger?

I recently had to replace that switch. The wires were fine, but one of the posts had ripped clean off. Hadn't seen that before.

Yes, same thing. Turns out the switch was fucked.

Yeah, I've tested both with finger and ball. I'll replace the switch this weekend but the in game behavior is odd to me.

I just replaced my Hellhouse scoop microswitch, and the previous owner also replaced this switch once. I've owned the DP for 3-4 months now. I think I've figured out why this switch has a history of breaking down frequently - I bet that most of the failures of this switch are at the center soldering tab which breaks or cracks (which is how my switch failed). From closely inspecting my failed switch, I see that the center tab narrows down from 3mm to approx. 1mm wide where the tab enters the switch body, whereas the other 2 tabs entering the switch body are 3mm wide entering the switch. While playing the game I see that the pf periodically jumps (or maybe I should say vibrates), and I have seen the ball jump maybe 1/4" when this happens. I think this sudden vibration of the pf is caused by the drop targets resetting and this puts some stress on this microswitch, and with the middle soldering tab being narrower than the other 2 tabs, it's the 1st one to break. I'm thinking of possibly putting a small amount of epoxy at the base of this tab to bond it to the switch body, to take some of the stress off of the tab where it narrows down.

The past few days (on my DP Prem) the 4-insert lights at the top of the pf have sometimes gone dark. These are the lights where one can be lit (selected) by operating the left flipper button for the purpose of scoring a skill shot when plunging the ball into the pf. At first these 4-lights stayed dark when playing the first game after booting up the game. After playing for a few minutes these lights started working, but dimly, and then gradually got brighter until after a few more minutes when they got to normal brightness, and then stayed bright for as many games as you wanted to play. At this point I followed the wires from these lights to a node board and removed and reinserted a multi-wire plug containing these wires at the board. Now these lights act a bit differently, and sometimes are bright, and sometimes dark, periodically going back & forth, bright to dark, after a minute or two goes by. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions anyone has for me for troubleshooting this issue.
Thanks in advance.

You mean they are blinking on and off?

I'm coming up on 1 year of ownership.
There were lots of posts about broken switch tabs that I read early on (or before I even started playing it?).

I put a blob of hot glue on the switch tabs & wires, to secure the tabs & wires to the switch body. No problems so far (though I still threw a couple of spare switches on a parts order).
Hot glue is easy to remove w/out damaging anything, if needed.

Thanks,
-Jason

If you're ordering new switches (without the arm), make sure you the new arm will fit properly. I have no idea how to identify which switch part is which, unfortunately, but the manner in which the arm attached to my hellhouse switch is not the same as all my spares, and so I couldn't simply remove the arm from the broken switch and put it on a spare.

But the arm on the PBL replacement I ordered has a different attachment method than the original, and if this switch ever breaks, the arm will fit on my spares.

The biggest issue with the scoop switch is just how much it gets used, the scoop gets an absolute beating on Deadpool. You can be in the scoop and then back in it every half dozen shots and off the right flipper it’s always a hard solid shot sinking into the scoop, which is only a half scoop.

I realised just how much the scoop is used and tied to every aspect of the game when I was designing my Hellhouse scoop mod for the game, stumblor had to do over a dozen software revisions to clean up the scoops behaviour because it’s tied to every mode, lightshow, extra ball, weapons pretty much every shot in game. Scoops usually suck the fun and flow out of a game (Elwin doesn’t like them because of that very reason) but Gomez did an excellent job of the scoop on Deadpool, it never feels like a chore to hit.

No, the lights don't blink off & on, They work like they should, except that they might be completely dark, or dim, or normal in brightness, and this condition changes during the game. I played a few games just now while I'm writing this and here's what I experienced: The 4-insert lights at the top of the pf for scoring a skillshot upon initial plunge of each ball, were all dark. I could still score the skillshot because I know which of these lights should be lit for the initial plunge for each ball even though they were all dark. After the ball gets into the main pf area it's nearly impossible to know which of these insert lights is supposed to be lit because it changes every time you hit the left flipper button. As you know, every time the ball goes thru the lane beneath each of these lights it turns the light on (if it's off) and when all 4 lights are lit the bonus multiplier increases by one. Anyway, these lights remained dark for the entire game that I played so I couldn't tell which lights I needed to turn on for the bonus multiplier. I then played a 2nd game and at first these 4 lights were still dark, but after a few seconds the lights started working correctly. For the remainder of the game, these lights would go off (dark) and stay that way for maybe 15-30 seconds, and then start working again like they should with normal brightness, and then after another 15-30 seconds they would all go dark again, and alternate that way for the rest of the game. I then played a 3rd game and the lights all acted normally, with normal brightness for the entire game, as if it took them 2-games to warm up. This has been the pattern for several days now and I'm wondering what I should start checking out to solve this problem. I have previously had problems with lights that change from off to on (or vise versa) depending on game conditions, but these problems were on old Bally & Williams games, and replacing a transistor was usually the solution, but I'm a novice with the modern Stern games. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

So those top lane roll over lights for BAM! are individual LED boards that are connected to Node 8c via connector CN2. Given they work with full brightness sometimes I am guessing the connections at those boards are ok, but it is certainly worth checking. If you follow up to Node 8c which is middle-right with the playfield up, connector CN2 is at the top. Reseat that and see if it helps. It may be worth reseating all of the connectors on this board and for good measure just do all of the node boards including the Cat5 connectors on boards as well as in the backbox.

If that doesn't fix your problem there could be continuity issues between Node 8c:CN2 and the LED boards or your entire Node 8c is faulty. Do Deadpool's eyes light up properly in the middle of the playfield? How about the lights in the Katana handle, do those work as these are also both linked to Node 8c. Running a diagnostic test on the lights might help by either illuminating all of them or stepping through each. Remember to pull out the white plug/switch with the coin door open so the lights operate.

The manual is a great help in determining which lights are driven by which Node board and node connection.

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Deadpool_Pro_web.pdf

I've had similar issues on two occasions. Reseating node-board connections never seemed to do the trick for me. Instead, I sucked it up and reseated every cable I could find on the game. Issue was solved, but I can't tell you which connection was the culprit.