Thanks, would love to see it. Ordered a set from pinball life. First one was really bad. I sent them pictures. They confirmed something was off. Replacement is much better but not great. Happy enough with it. But I relocated my Insider Connected and the machine didn’t come with a replacement.

Most likely a leaf spring needs adjustment on your flipper. If you have a tool it's super easy to correct. Chances are too much force is being applied from the tension adjuster furthest away from the button, which is in turn holding the contact closed still while you try to microflip. You could pull this with you fingers just slightly away and test and retest, looking for the contact to just be broken as you start to release the button...There is no exact science to this once you bend them from factory and is very much a trial and error thing.

Sorry took so long busy week with the other half in the hospital again.

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Has anyone ever had an issue with the game auto launching? My game will randomly go through a temp phase of always launching any ball sitting in the shooter lane. This happens for new games and in between players. No tech alerts and I have gone through and tested every switch and opto.

I would guess probably a playfield switch is triggering so the game thinks the ball is already in play and back in the shooter lane, so it launches it.

They look very good. About the same as the fixed one I got. Maybe a tiny better. Hard to tell.

Sorry to hear. Hope you and everyone are ok.

Well after 44 days the mystery is solved..... 530-5008-00!

Better late than never and I'm glad I didn't order a bunch of options because I probably would have been wrong!

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Hello. A friend of mine just picked up a used Deadpool Pro and this plastic was in the bottom if the cabinet. Would anyone here have any idea where it goes? I tried looking at playfield pics but could not find anything. It is approximately 2 inches tall.. Thanks in advance.

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I'm excited to join this club, having picked up my Deadpool Prem (2018 build date) over the weekend, from the orig. owner. I currently have 2-questions:
1) were there any problems (defects) with the early builds that have been corrected on the subsequent builds, that I should be aware of?
2) I noticed 3-steel posts in the pf which didn't have rubber rings, but looked like they should have, so I put them on. 2 of these posts are at the tops of the dividers between the out lanes and return lanes on both the left & right sides of the pf; the other post is below and approx. 3" in front of the disco ball. Regarding the out/return lane posts, I looked online for pics of the Deadpool pf and found it's about 50-50 on having the rubber on these posts. I couldn't find a good pic showing the disco ball post. My attached pics show these posts with the rubber on. Should I leave the rubber on, or take it off?
Thanks in advance for your comments.

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The ball guide next to Lil' Deadpool can rub into the playfield. If you look at where the blue rubber nub is, it can wear into the clear and paint with vibration. Putting washers under this ball guide will protect it. Newer builds have a cutout on the bottom part of the metal here so that it cannot rub.

You may want to inspect the left ramp as the edges can also touch the clear. You might have to take it off to notice damage but you can put some washers under the front of the ramp and mylar under the metal edges if needed.

Behind the wolverine spinner, this ball guide can also dig into the clear which may not be noticeable unless you take the plastics off. Once again washers are your friend.

There are numerous posts about these issues in the thread, many with photos. In particular for the Katana ball guide.

DP shipped with 2 of those posts rubbers in the goodybag as an option to add to the outlane posts. I believe they were intentionally left off to reduce ball times, but as you have said there are a lot of machines with them on out in the wild. As for the Colossus horseshoe, I have never seen rubber put there. I am curious how that might affect gameplay. In my mind I wanna say that could make that shot even more difficult if it can hit that rubber and potentially reject. But it is your game so if it works it works.

Welcome to the club!

I don’t see a reason for a rubber on the post in the colossus shot. It’s already a tricky shot.

Smack & Tommy_Pins,
Thanks for your comments - exactly what I hoped to hear. Based on your comments, I'll be soon removing the colossus shot post rubber, but leaving the rubber on at the out lanes posts (the longer the ball time, the better). I'll also check the other locations mentioned by Smack for pf wear, and take action if necessary. Thanks guys.

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

LOADED “Disco Red” Deadpool (Premium) w/ topper Archived

HUO - Documented (Home Used Only) - “Maximum effort! For your consideration is this 2022 late run DP Premium with Stern topper, Stern shooter rod, Stern art blades, Shaker Motor, Insider Connect, Speaker Lights and c...”

2023-02-12

Monroe Township, NJ

DaddyManD

10,500

Archived after: 9 days

Viewed: 1311 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

Got positive feedback

Anyone local to NJ looking to upgrade to a showpiece DP Prem give me a shout! Would deliver within 60 miles. Thanks!

Is the botton on the lockdown bar gapped right? Did you check that switch?

Go into switch test and see if that switch is registering. If you pull the glass, be sure to reinstall the lockdown bar during test. The contact could just barely be touching , or not touching, and that’s why it creates intermittent launching. I had this issue on one of my sterns…

Hope I'm asking this in the right thread, but anyone familiar with the options for Deadpool pro with removing the character plastics that are pop riveted into the base plastics? Would make modding these much more simple if they were nut and bolt. Im also looking to do this on my Godzilla with the mechagodzilla. I'm guessing there are alternate base plastics available to attach 3d mods for these particular pieces? Thanks for any input or direction. Appreciated.

Sorry, but I looked over my game and I don't see this plastic. Could it be from a different game?

They’re riveted to the plastic but should held to the playfield with a screw so they can be removed pretty easily.

With some help from fellow Pinsider G35R6 we put these sweet halos on last night …
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As mentioned, the rivet is only on the character plastic. Drilling this out and replacing with a screw/washer/nut takes no time and removes the need to modify/replace the base plastics.

My snikt hit-rate went up roughly 1000% after installing halos.

Ugh, please don't say this. That's my least hitable shot in the game, and I'm desperately trying not to spend more money on it.

Money, very, very well spent. They will improve the way the game plays, feels and looks. Looks beautiful right at the flippers where you look most of the game.

punkin is a shill but in this case he's right

seriously though--on standard flippers, snikt shots were a happy accident if I ever got one. With the Halos, they are much more achievable. On the last game I played, I had x3 on ball 2 and x4 on ball 3.

I support good service and good products, in this case it's both.

I resent your insult too.

The Conniving Roots of Shill

Someone who shills today may very well be employed to simply extol the wonders of legitimate products. But in the early 1900s, when the first uses of the verb shill were documented, it was more likely that anyone hired to shill was trying to con you into parting with some cash. Practitioners called shills did everything from faking big wins at casinos (to promote gambling) to pretending to buy tickets (to encourage people to see certain shows). Shill is thought to be a shortened form of shillaber, but etymologists have found no definitive evidence of where that longer term originated.

They look fantastic and play just as well! Absolutely worth the money. I'm already looking at GZ sitting next to DP and wondering what color would be best!

There's some pics of GZ in the Precision thread.

Green with blue bands looks nice.

Now that they've got purple, I'm ready to order for my GZ and WCS94... and replace my AFM solid metal flippers with halos. But I want the keyed shafts for my WCS94, and those are out of stock for a couple weeks.

Went and got a digital level today. What a difference that makes. Not just Deadpool but wow all of my games were way off.
Added rubber to the outlanes posts and big difference in ball times.
Still can't get the damn Dazzler multiball.

Put a drop of super lube on the spinner arm.

Check that the switch is working correctly.

Have a halo question. Are the bushings a must when making this upgrade

No, but they perform better with them.

I agree that the precision flippers do improve your play and they look cool, but if you play in a pb league or enter a tournament you won't find any precision flippers in any of the games you play there. Would this be a reason to not get precision flippers for your home pb game - I'm just sayin?

Not true, there are tournament organisers in the Precision thread. They've only been out a few months, wait for a year or teo and see how common they become.

What's the proper spring replacement for the Mini DP Ninja head ? I saw that the full Mini Ninja OEM part is usually around $45-$50 but sold out everywhere... needless to say I really only need the main spring for the head which attaches to the body. Any help with a lead on where to get it with the part number would be very helpful!

For those that haven't done it yet, please get the Comet LED White Upgrade kit for this game (or do it yourself some other way). I played in league last night on a routed pro then came home tonight and the difference is night and day (pun intended) on what you can see on the playfield and the game. (I didn't even install the spot lights).

Agreed. Did that way back k 2 years or more ago.

I used comet sunlights. They look good with reds

Thanks,
That's good to know.

For Sale a couple Mods

Katana Handle & Desert Eagle Gun

My Loss Your Gain
80$ Shipped in US only please

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SOLD

Alright ! Do you want to replace that crappy plastic chimichanga truck with something that stands out? look no further. This die cast chimichanga truck mod is completely plug and play. It integrates with the existing flasher. The interior illumination and headlights are fed off of the GI under the plastic below the existing truck. The mod includes all necessary hardware and connections for a easy install. I’m asking 80$ plus Shipping. materials were roughly 45$. I currently have 5 ready to ship and 5 more I can make/ship within a week of placing order.

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I picked up a DP Prem. (with about 2k plays on it) a few weeks ago. It had a problem whereby the auto shooter failed to propel the ball fast enough to reach the pf approx. 50% of the time and each time I had to then use the manual shooter, which wasn't a big problem except during multi-ball. I also remember playing a DP game one time at an arcade which had the same problem. Well, seeing that there were 2-DP games (out of only 3 that I have ever played) with the same problem, I figured that this problem might be present in many other games. I have figured out a simple fix for this problem, and here it is for anyone with a DP having the same problem: I shimmed up the auto shooter ass'y (at the lower end only which is close to the lower edge of the pf) by placing 2-washers (approx. .050" thick each) between the mounting plate for the auto shooter ass'y and the underside of the pf close to the lower edge of the pf plywood. One washer on the left side of the plate and the other on the right side. I didn't place the washers on the threaded studs that hold the ass'y in place, but rather as close to the lower end of the mounting plate that was easy to do. You only have to loosen (and not remove) the 4-nuts which hold the ass'y to the pf underside and shove the washers in. I glued the washers to the mounting plate so they would stay in place in case anyone (in the future) ever removes the auto shooter ass'y. I hope this information is helpful to someone who is experiencing this same problem. Apparently the previous owner of my DP was living with this problem for a long time - he bought the game NIB in 2018.

People just usually adjust the prongs to sit flush when they have the prob in the thread i've noticed.

There's a fair few pics and explanations in here.

Silicone wear

If its an extra I'd like to buy it.
Origina run didn't come with it.
I'll post a photo later of where it is...

Anyone interested in a used Stern topper? Make me an offer.

ilovegames did you ever get a response for this? I think I figured it out if you have not. This looks to sit at the mouth of the right outlane just to the right of the katana and sits on top of plastic #45 and under plastic #49.

If you take the piece from your photo and flip it end over end it should match the orientation clear plastic shown below.

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There's a Pinside thread on this subject of the Stern auto plunger problem: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-auto-plunger-problems

I've read it and there doesn't seem to be any universally agreed upon solution. No one suggested the shimming solution I've found so I posted it in the thread and one guy who apparently has been struggling with this problem stated that he would try it, but hasn't yet posted his results. My post here #16462 didn't include a pic so I'm including one now, to show where I placed the washers (black arrows). Before shimming, I first tried adjusting the prongs, as you allude to, w/o success. Shimming the auto plunger ass'y with washers immediately worked and still works fine 2-weeks later. The red arrow in the pic shows where I placed a sheet metal screw to replace the Stern threaded stud which I broke tightening the nut while reattaching the auto plunger ass'y after inserting the washer shims. I think the Stern threaded studs are easily broken when tightening the nut, so be warned not to tighten very much.

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Sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes, well, he eats you

I just installed Precision Products flippers. They run about $160 with bushings. Pic of bushings shown vs stock.This was my attempt to make the Snikt shot more often. It is a good product and think it helps. At least I enjoy playing DP more . All shots are more precise though it'll take a little time to relearn your shots. I won't be getting them for every pin I own but they do help DP

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I had blue Titans but found them a little dark so switched to red

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