I'm assuming when you roll the ball down the guide it hits the bump and bounces away from the flipper? The times I've encountered it, I either readjusted the guides a bit (like you just did) or the flipper alignment might be off. If the flipper tip is off, it'll move the back part of the bat off its placement. I had to go back and forth moving the tip and the guides till the ball ran smoothly unto the flipper without bouncing.

Yea, It has a bit of a bounce which can mess with your shot. I did those things you mentioned too so it’s definitely better now but took a lot of adjusting.

Seeing the other stern pros with the metal guides the tolerances are a lot better, I think some of my post holes for either the flipper or the return guide may be a few milimeters off as well

Slightly sure but a visible bounce adds time where you can’t actually aim your shot as the ball isn’t “settled”

Appreciate everyone’s comments! It’s tricky to adjust!

This piece and screw came off if something, any ideas?

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would that be the bracket that centres your playfield in the cabinet

It's in the key post index.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/272#post-7027588

Interesting phenomenon: I love Deadpool. I love shakers. But I do not love the shaker on Deadpool.

I played it for a month without it, and was eager to add the shaker. It's the first pin that as soon as I added it I thought "Uh oh...I'm not sure I like this." Which is weird. I usually have mine set to max on every pin.

Hmmm... I think the shaker use is great in Deadpool!

Either you like shakers or you don't. I can't see where they are good in some games and not others.

Love a shaker.

The shaker use in Godzilla is unmatched imo. Every "footstep" rumbles the unit perfectly. Haven't played a machine that a shaker wasn't upgrading my experience

I put a shaker in my TAF and just played one in the wild and it was weird with no shaker. I imagine DP would be the same for me.

I like ketchup
I like ice cream.
I don't like ketchup ice cream.

https://www.healthgrades.com/psychiatry-directory/vt-vermont/winooski

https://www.blogto.com/eat_drink/2022/08/ketchup-ice-cream-cne-toronto/

I have a shaker in deadpool and hate it. Can't stand the loudness of it. And that's with all settings (low, medium and high). I also have a shaker on guardians and love it (even on high) it seems much more refined than the jack hammer like affect in deadpool.

pasted_image (resized).png

Several posts over in mmr thread discussing this very thing. I get the impression that individual shakers can vary based on how the weights are aligned. You can move the weights with some effort (drilling) to make the shaker less intense.
On my mmr and iron man the shakers are jack hammers but Deadpool is not so I feel like this may be true.

You should not have to drill. They should have a set screw. Loosen, align, tighten until you get the desired effect.

Could be as well. Just went by what i read. I'd say open it up and look and know that its possible to change it.

I ended up turning my Shaker motor on my Mandalorian Premium off entirely last night and to be honest I think I was able to enjoy the game more with it off. That's a game that really hammers the shaker though, so not exactly apples to apples.

On my Batman 66 I feel like the shaker usage is perfect. Just enough tactile feedback when you make a shot or complete a task, usually nothing super prolonged or extreme.

Where is the best place to buy a shaker? I’ve read some places sell shakers that cause problems with spike 2 systems.

Shaker adjustment can be found here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-adjust-a-shaker-motor-on-tftc-tutorial

Pinball Life usually, unless someone is having a sale on OEM Stern shakers. Otherwise you won't see a difference between the PBL and Stern units.

https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-c-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-games.html

I second this! ^^^

I have Deadpool, AIQ, and Godzilla. Two are Stern shakers one is a Pinball life shaker. I was annoyed by all of them until I switched the weights so they are at a 90 degree orientation to each other (only need to move one). Now the shakers are set to Maximal Use and I think they are perfect. I do feel that Godzilla is the best integration of the three, Deadpool a close second. Well worth the hassle of removing the shaker to make the switch.

Did anyone on here get the Deadpool and wolverine build a bear stuff when they came out?

I have them and not sure how to incorporate them into the machine. At first glance looking at after market prices I’m tempted to sell on eBay.

Just curious if anyone had any good ideas for placement

I just purchased these two figures from Pinball Life and they elude to being the exact same figures that are in the Premium/LE. Any idea on how to mount them in a pro?

IMG_8204 (resized).JPG

I'd be putting them in the coin box. No need to remove the plastic, just place them in there.

Get creative!

HFCS kills...

I don't quite understand your question? Are you asking for how it's mounted on a Premium? They can be placed in the same place. They look identical from what I can see. The Premium simply uses Zip ties to hold them in place. I have some pics if you wish to see.

Yeah I’d love to see some pics.

Has anyone seen this issue with the katana lock? Occasionally the post is getting stuck in the down position. The seam between the plastic down post and the metal rod is catching on the plastic nyliner. I tightened all the screws under the playfield and messed with the coil power to no avail. If the post stays centered, it slides freely. But, it has enough play in it that it can rub the nyliner and stick. Sadly, I never looked closely at the assembly before the problem started so I’m not sure if anything looks different now.

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I had that problem and it was frustrating. Often it let two balls go instead of one and fooled the game into a 2 ball multiball where it should not have been.

I fixed it by removing the plunger and grinding down the metal at the seam area so there was no longer a lip in the metal to catch on. I did it VERY carefully using a grinding wheel and then cleaned it up with some sand paper to be completely smooth. Once reinstalled it was smooth as silk and I couldn't even manually manipulate it to make it stick.

Does a coil sleeve fit through that metal plate if you remove the nyliner? Put the short side through the plate and cut the long end to sit flush with the top of the coil bracket, that should eliminate the lip.

Anybody experience their autolaunch weakening dramatically & quickly?

The first few launches when playing a cold machine are strong.

After maybe 3 launches, it can no longer get over the hump, & the autolaunch lands in the bonus multiplier rollover lanes.

While playing tonight, some autolaunches were so weak that it got barely past the Dazzler pop-up ramp (Premium) & went right back into the shooter lane.

Thanks,
-Jason

I've spent several hours trying to tweak this to make it all line up 100% correctly and not bind. One solution I found was a take a thick piece of paper and put it under the coil bracket to align it a tiny bit better.

One possibility is the auto plunge mechanism is loose and firing inconsistently. Take a closer look at it to make sure it's all lined up 100% and nothing is moving around that shouldn't.

Thanks. Mech feels smooth, without play. If the mech were loose, the inconsistent firing would seem random: sometimes good, sometimes bad.

My game has a very consistent *degradation*. It always starts out strong & then it always weakens dramatically after only 3-4 good plunges.

Turn off the game, come back later, & it's the same story: strong for a handful of autoplunges, then much weaker.

Argh.

Thanks,
-Jason

DP PRO HAS ARRIVED!!!

I think I can live with the current issues

1. No rubbers on posts or some posts missing (looks like 1032 might talk about this in the forum. Thank you for whoever added that)

2. Second metal bar on the launch ramp is tight, soft plunger shot ball gets stuck on the top. I figure I could screw/unscrew/bend to fix this

3. Top right corner or right side decal is peeling. First time I’ve had this on NIB. It’s minor so we will see what I can find but I’d assume a new decal or glue are my only options to fix it

4. When coin door is closed it gives me the no power error. Have to open the coin door and pull it out right now to turn it on. The metal flap doesn’t look bent and when manually pushed it in it seemed to work so hoping that’s not a major issue

Thanks in advance if anyone has any insight.

In the 1 game I played it looks nice!!!!

It's a pain in the bot bot when a new game arrives with all those niggling issues i know.

The frustrating part is I wanted all nice and dolled up for our Wednesday night pinball / golden tee league. I don’t mind making just some subtle changes so it’s working

Biggest fear is creating a mess on a NIB pin haha

I had this same issue, Stern sent a new decal.

Hi Guys, i picked up a DP premium for a week ago.
Next to my Shadow and TZ this game is pure fun.
Could not reach the big final, but already reached the clone mutliball and highscore 1,169 bilion.

Game runs pretty good, it has only about 200 games. I have a issue whenn looping the disco loop. After some looped shots the ball speed causes a bad bounce from the diverter to the katana and the ball drops form the katana.
I this issue already known ?
How do you pitch the game ?
i setted it with the classic 6,5°

Did you just call/email them directly or go through your authorized dealer?

First just Stern, then both in the end. It was the first time I ever needed to contact the distributor for warranty work. It was a needless trainwreck communicating with Stern and Cointaker on this issue. It was 3-4 issues I was having and everyone was saying it was getting taken care of...while it wasn't. Cointaker saying it was on it's way from Stern, while Stern says they didn't receive the order from them yet. Eventually it got sorted out. Actually, here's part of the exchange on September 13th:

****
Ryan. Rebecca. Eddie. I did not receive an update from parts on my last email. I'm going to number these so there's no more confusion. This is getting to be ridiculously hard to communicate with you all:

1) I have not received the LED bulb
2) I did not receive the sticker
3) In addition to the two sides of the katana optos, I also received a duplicate one
4) I received a large board that appears to not go to this pin. The bag it came in was open and dirty (see pics)
5) The opto issue still exists

I understand "things are hard" right now, but clear communication is the bedrock of customer service. It has been...difficult at best. I plan to call in the morning, but if someone could please take charge and figure out these numerous issues I'd appreciate it. Please call me. The machine was delivered July 15th, and has been unplayable since July 28th.
****

With any part order from stern under warranty, always reply all with distributor and all stern parties involved and follow up weekly is my recommendation.

Didn’t see anything in the bullet point notes, anyone have some good setting adjustment numbers?

Also, not quite sure how to relieve the pressure from this stupid bar on the right. Ball gets stuck there if it doesn’t get plunged hard enough or comes back into the area

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Trough kickout: dial that back so the ball is not firing into the shooter lane so hard.

Some people also adjust the scoop kickout if it is hitting your right sling, and some people adjust the flipper power.

That issue with the bar pushing into your shooter lane is not good. You could try bending it but I feel the base where it enters the playfield is gonna be the same, unless it isn't pinching there. The only other adjustment would be to move the side rail on the other side of the bar. If this is a new game I would contact your distro/dealer to let them know.

If you hold the left flipper can you plunge a ball all the way around the orbit? I am gonna guess not with all of that friction.

They told me to bend it. I was able to ‘push’ the corner back a little bit. It’s working now but there’s still the tiniest bit of friction. It will go all the way through the loop. Issue is with soft plunge or a ball going back down the lane it just moves to slow and gets stuck at the Tippy top.

I had the same issue. Here’s what the bottom looks like where it’s installed before correction. My guess is poor CNC for that hole.

I fixed it by putting a block of wood against the rail post and using the minimum force needed with a hammer against the block to bend the rail over. As a note I wrapped the block in a soft cloth to protect everything else. It doesn’t take much since you only need to move it a millimeter or two.
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