Just received a Deadpool Pro yesterday, I can't seem to figure out why the tilt isn't working. I don't even get a warning. I tried adjusting the tilt bob to different settings and it never gets triggered. I can shake the whole machine during play and don't even get a warning. Anyone know how to diagnose? The game should be still default set at 2 warnings as I didn't change any settings. Assuming I don't need to turn anything on for tilt to work.

I'm at 6.8 and notice that there's a good chunk of times that the bumper doesn't fire when a ball gently rolls over it, and got stuck there twice in a couple of hundred games. Since it was seldom enough haven't bothered searching for it being addressed or fixable, but for sure it has problems firing on the top side of that lower bumper

As others have said check your pitch, but for reference balls that come down the Domino orbit should hit the post at the entrance to the orbit and land safely on your left flipper.

Sold prices are still pretty insane though

I definitely want it but I've sold comics I wanted because the prices got insane too. It's almost double what I paid for it. So I'm having a crisis of collection vs money to get possibly multiple games

Check the game settings but if it is factory tilt should be enabled. Otherwise it sounds like a broken/faulty connection to the ring that the plumbob swings between. There has gotta be a diagnostic test for it as well.

Start a game with the glass off, coin door open make sure the 48v switch is pulled out so the games fully active and push the bob with your finger so you know it should definitely trigger a tilt warning.

If nothing happens follow the wiring back and see if the switch is simply not plugged in or if there is another visible issue.

Saw others mentioned the pitch of the game, definitely check that. Also check the switch gap on that pop bumper. Getting it nice and sensitive will help the ball bounce right out of there.

Sell the LE and put your name on a distributor list for a premium. Cash out and get the same gameplay.

Got it figured out, the white wire that connects to the ring around the plumb bob was not tight. Tightened it up and it's working. Don't know why I didn't think to look there first... Thank you!

Hard to not sell at those prices. Sell sell sell….and be happy with a 6 pin lineup. Or, buy another pin at another inflated price and possibly some $ in your wallet but no DPLE. It really depends on how married to “LE” models you are. If you’re ok owning a pro or premium, seems like a good move. Not many games (or LE’s for that matter) that are better than Deadpool.

Just adjust the switch to make it more sensitive after you have set it up at 6.8-7 degrees.

Happening to me too when the ball is real slow in that area. But since I commonly have an open beer when I'm playing, it's a "Deadpool Deadball" and I have 8 seconds to drink before ball search kicks it back into play.

I know I can fix it, but I had some other minor issues out of the box and did those all at a whack. Maybe if I need to do a few other things I'll get around to making the switch more sensitive, but for now it's a little "out of bounds" type penalty.

What did you have to fix? Mine is being delivered in the next few days so I'd like to know what to be on the lookout for.

Recently received my DP Pro. Has about 10 plays on it. When I flip left flipper it scores on the screen so its tripping another switch. During test I captured what it is triggering. Picture shows its Left Ramp Opto. I checked connections on the node boards but no help there. Anyone know of a solution or maybe where to post this issue on a tech thread?

Deadpool issue (resized).jpg

opto's need to be securely fastened and aligned pointing directly at each other. if that's not the issue, reseat the connector for the opto's (not at the node board, but where they plug into the circuit, probably just below where they enter through the playfield.

i should mention that i'm not familiar w that particular opto, but just some common issues with optos in general.

It turns out that the pitch was fine (6.9 degrees). The installer left the front legs as low as the could go and then leveled to the bubble which is why the back legs were so low. The roll was off an entire degree though. I added some elevation to the front, and the leveled the roll and set the pitch to 7 degrees. This seems to have corrected the domino lane but boy do I get way more drains overall after this change.

I checked the leaf switch for the pop bumper and that one has a larger gap than the other two. I was able to lower the gap just a hair but I'm waiting on a leaf adjuster tool to fix it completely. I've already noticed the bumper fires more often and it no longer gets stuck

You'll get used yo it, a little sway that's less than a slide will usually work for sdtm. If it's going down the outlanes make it steeper and put some titans on the outlane posts.

My NIB premium had the same issue last year with the opto behind Lil DP. Only thing that fixed it was replacing the opto.

That was a pretty cool read. Thanks for the info! It makes a lot more sense that the tutorials I saw were on jurassic and other stern titles with handles.

That's also really good to know if the playfield ever needs to be completely out for other stuff. Knowing where to grab was what scared me at first.

You can also remove the playfield if it’s in the lower service position (playfield service rails on the lockbar receiver) but you need to make sure you have something protecting any side art or mirror blades as it involves you grabbing the playfield as high up as you can from the front of the cab and basically pivoting the back up then lifting the playfield out and resting it against the front of the cab on the floor using the front of the service rails.

Both methods work great, I find my initial suggestion easiest hit depending what space you have the above works great too.

Good time to sell anything that got bumped up during the pandemic. Things are slowing down including money flow from then Govt. Stocks just got sold off and good ones that make money will come back ok but a group of stupidly priced ones likely never come back to near where they were. If a pin you own is stupidly overpriced like $15k plus LE’s you may want sell. The $15k Deadpool’s only started last Dec in tight supply for sale before Christmas. It’s not a years long pattern of pricing. It’s possible it sticks, sure. I don’t think it’s probable. All IMHO.

The biggie was that my Katana ramp was having problems. Start of Ninja MB and the 3 balls would all avalanche out together, collide at the end of the ramp and some would fall into the outlane or shooter lane. To address it, first I noticed the plastic Katana handle wasn't installed correctly. From there I saw that the up post for the lock was installed off-center and the post would be caught on friction to the hole in the PF. Quick realignment of the coil and post fixed that. Then I reinstalled the Katana handle correctly.

From there I noticed more rejects than normal on my Katana lock shot (behind mini-DP). There's 2 posts on the left at the entrance of the Katana ramp. I loosened them and pushed them left more opening the ramp entrance up a smidge. Watching my son play, those rubbers on the posts would sometimes hit the ball killing the momentum (rail guide behind mini-DP is perfectly aligned). It's a lot more easy to make now, especially on the Super Skill shot.

Last thing I did was just some quick adjustments in the settings for the scoop and ball eject powers. I want to be able to catch the ball from the hell house, and I don't want the eject into the shooter lane to be damaging the wood in a week (which will totally happen on factory settings).

Thanks for your input. I open my Pro tonight.

Finally arrived, set up - installed shaker, Cliffys, , Stern Armor, Hooked Ninja star pops, few other little items.. Special speaker lights getting installed tomorrow .. Time to play! Talk about a recent run! 5/2/22 Born

273DF603-A6DA-42E0-B6F7-F03F2B927FEA (resized).jpeg2AF77E4A-BBA6-478B-88BC-587E27BE1087 (resized).jpegA16D8486-A6E5-4433-BF1D-9D59044CD1D1 (resized).jpegD94E3BB8-35A9-4E95-A67B-D0EF6FB48776 (resized).jpeg

Its finally coming. My dealer messaged me Thursday saying my Deadpool was arriving at his shop on Tuesday or Wednesday. Then we would set up a time for delivery Thursday or Friday. I can not wait to get it here and start playing.

Tell me more about those special eaker lights. They sound scarey

Speaker

Anyone have any ideas why serial ends with a letter? Never seen that before

F3390834-6332-4190-BC83-F01EDB19E688 (resized).jpeg

Anyone got their DP prem/LE with the glass off able to measure the current disco ball diameter for me? Thank you.

Premium translite installed ✅
Myth Fire speaker lights installed ✅
Cliffy’s Installed ✅
Hooked Metal Ninja star pop bumper caps installed ✅

3CF12B2C-6766-4D70-BFC6-FF0FC0A94438 (resized).jpeg

7A32C0B3-AF57-44E6-8B21-099144CE6F6A (resized).jpeg

9317A632-ADBD-4DCB-8DB3-183A83DCD9BC (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

this light is more best than speakerlight?

About 30 plays in on my DP Pro I had this screw careen toward me and land on the playfield. Scoured the machine to find it’s home and couldn’t find a missing screw anywhere. Heard threads about techs sometimes losing a screw and moving on. Then about 15 plays later, my ball got stuck near the left rear electric gate and found it laying on a pieces of metal. Searched the manual to find a matching piece and I found nothing. Does anyone know where this guy belongs. Thanks.

2903093B-D07C-408C-B6B9-634D38792A67 (resized).jpeg

846DBE42-5E99-4447-8D23-91744158EC07 (resized).jpeg

DF0939F4-042E-43C3-8133-480F34D80C17 (resized).jpeg

It’s all the way back there is a cutout in the cliffy
If you zoom in you’ll see.. Thank you

Very cool effects!

Where does everyone order the “Cliffy” protectors from? I’m getting the Deadpool Pro in the next week and sound like I need to get a set.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/

Find all the stuff you want then shoot Cliff an email. He will invoice you.

The same exact thing happened to Buffalo Pinball during a livestream from 1/2/20. You can watch it unfold on YouTube. Skip to about the 38 minute mark for the repair.

BBFBD77E-7C27-4A3E-8C99-79E86A98A0B5 (resized).jpeg

Anyone got their DP prem/LE with the glass off able to measure the current disco ball diameter for me? Thank you.Thanks

this is speakerlight. i dont sponsor, i only ask if your kit is best than this.

I wish I had the room for 6 pins or even the funds to own 6. I have room for 3 maybe 4. Now its just deciding what the other 2 will be. I need to save up for the other 2 but It should be fun seeing what Stern/American/JJP release next. I would really like w Wonka so really room for 1 more lol

I love cliffys but I am not a fan of those rail cliffys at all.

It takes a little more time but I removed the rail and put small washers under the 2 rail legs, it lifts the guide just above the playfield and looks 100x better and factory.

Anybody have a pro that the ninja sword lock plunger doesn't come up high enough to hold the ball? Ball tends to hop the stop unless it has very little momentum.

Joined the club today. Bone stock for now except for the topper. Couple mods on route, powdercoating in July.

Never played the game before or seen it in person. Absolutely love it.

A9AD8DD2-C2A5-4132-8DAF-EA4FF82A4A06 (resized).jpeg

Threw the remainder batch of katana handles on the shop (matte or gloss finish options).

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1363-cheko-s-shop/06853-deadpool-katana-handle

2022-05-02 17.30.16 (resized).jpg

2022-05-13 14.10.00 (resized).jpg

I will say, I thought mine "should" come up more. I do think the ramp design with the tight-turn radii (only time I'll use that word in 2022) kills a lot of the momentum on those I've played so I usually don't see them screaming into the Katana lock... but with how little my post comes up (probably 40% of the total ball height), jumping a conical post is totally plausible to me.

Perhaps they're adding it to designate production runs (no idea if this is DP's 3rd or 4th run) so someone in aftermarket support can immediately know the engineering changes between runs...? At a former employer we sold one same product for a decade and the last digit in the S/N signified the year so you could quickly know when it was made and perhaps what things may or may not have changed on their particular unit.

Just my $0.02, I think AIQ Pro complements this game amazingly. Completely different layouts, approaches, depths, rules... everything. And I've seen like 4 total Marvel Universe movies.

Check the mechanism under the playfield. Mine was missing a washer, which allowed the spring to work its way up and caused the post to rest too low.

Edit: Here's a pic of what happened with mine (there should be a nylon washer between the spring and the e-clip):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/211#post-6505153

Does anyone know how I can protect the sides of the henhouse scoop like on Rush. I hate that metal sound every time it hits it. Rush is so much better now with it.

5AB994AC-65CB-4B63-A3C8-F68C12D46F83 (resized).jpeg