This assumes that the ball coming off is happening from the katana backstop and not the ramp. I’d do a slow motion video and see exactly what the ball is doing. You might need to adjust the ramp stop.

Ill check my pitch when I get home later on. Nothing is really ( terrible ) I've just been noticing a few things here and there after a bunch of games. I guess that's with most of these things anyways .....hah

The backstop on the diverter/katana has no adjustment, it is just a black rubber.
The ball comes flying fast bounces off the stop and hops over the ramp.
It happens almost every shot of the time.
It is annoying.

Wil call Stern and see what they say.

Strange that this happens. Is the piece of metal next to the ramp in place like my pic?

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I put a post where a screw is on the diverter. it worked good, here is a pick

20200809_150019 (resized).jpg

Good idea.

Balls occassionaly flying off the sword from a fast orbit have been around since the beginning according to this key post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/31#post-4768803

With that said, I didn't see anyone post what kind of foam was used. I like the post idea... if only I had a post lying around to try.

Has anyone tried this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods/05345-deadpool-ball-adjuster

that looks more like an eye sore where the post you don't even notice it and works good

Similarly....
af0295f9e6171012a1ab489153af3696e1dab45a (resized).jpg

Haven't had a ball jump the sword since.

this is a much better idea.
Will need to go out and buy a post, what kind of post did you use, there are so many different ones I am not sure what to get.

I assume that you also replaced the existing screw with a longer one for the post sleeve?

Just a short Information for all of you amazing people.

Thank you all on supporting me to get the Handle to what it is. It was only planed to be a project for me. Haven't thought that this will get such a huge and positive feedback. I have learned a lot because it's a lot more difficult to make something for others than for my self ( packaging /shipping / material planning / cost planning / service /a lot of time ectr.). Happy that here are some few mod makers out there take the effort and bring out some nice stuff (not all).

Man I Love to see the Handle all over the world.
Thank you for this.

I also work on lot of diffrent stuff.
I started an Instagram account ( @lucxor_pinball(https://www.instagram.com/invites/contact/?i=hsm1c9xptrql&utm_content=nrzrjvfand)
If you are interested I will soon post updates on what I am working rigth now.

I also started a Discord channel (not Ready jet) where you can chat with me. Pleas mind the time differences
https://discord.gg/t2GapRCfM9

Thanks Lucxor, I received my handle in the mail today (Melbourne, Australia). Sadly still no Deadpool Pinball to install it into, but had the chance to take a close look and your handy work.

The handle is beautifully crafted, the multiple colour gels are a great touch and the insert to place them into is precision stuff. A really professional mod you should be proud of. A world of difference to the original Stern.

Keep up the great work!! And thanks!

Thank you very much. Hope you receive your DP soon.
I love to hear from everyone who received his handle and send me pictures. I put a lot of work in every single handle and love to se when they arrive well and you guys are happy with it.

Pics to follow later but in transit a nice chunk of the back left corner ( top part ) broke off into an L shape. I'm not TOO pissed because its hidden when the backbox is up, but what do you guys recommend ? Wood glue? it also looks like there are staples in it? And is this something in the future that's going to ruin any kind of resale?

Yes it will.
Is it new or used?

New you should have recourse from shipping. but used- well SOL and will have to figure out a repair

P.s- may not matter, who’d ever sell their DP anyway??!!

Its new, it was shipped to the FedEx warehouse near me. Got it home and opened it up and that part was chipped off. Not sure what I really can do about that. Heading to home depot later to get some glue and whatever else I think I would need. Shit happens ‍♂️

haha I ask myself why anyone would sell their MB or AFM but hey I guess people get bored.

Go after FedEx asap

Not sure you can do anything after the fact.

Was their visible damage to the packaging when you picked it up? I'd hit up your distro. It really depends on if you can prove that there was visible damage done to the game in transit (FedEX), or if it was damaged while in the box (FedEx or potentially Stern), without visible damage to the box.

Found a pretty good use of the Deadpool hammock plastic on my premium. It blocks too much disco light so I tried it on the topper... Just going to hook up some Comet SMD to a GI or flasher to give it a lighting effect but I think it looks pretty awesome from the player perspective.

The mounts swivel and conform perfectly to the topper curve and two small pieces of command wall double sided hold it firmly in place
20220218_222611 (resized).jpg20220218_222650 (resized).jpg20220218_222722 (resized).jpg20220218_223225 (resized).jpg

Edit: I fixed this but left my original question here followed by the answer I arrived at in case anyone wants to reference..

**Quick alignment question... I changed the coil stops already and tightened everything but my left flipper seems just a tad lower than the right when in the up position.

Down, they are dead nuts on the alignment holes...

The game shoots amazing

Just curious, was this intentional geometry with the different flipper coils, or is this just something normal not to be concerned about.

My OCD is curious

20220218_225140 (resized).jpg20220218_225205 (resized).jpg20220218_225245 (resized).jpg

Disregard I fixed it by adjusting the left and right hand Pawl in the up position and made both bats even and then slightly tweaking (aligned with needle nose just a millimeter or two ) the left and right back stop for the flipper return now they're all perfect I'm just going to leave this here in case anybody in encounters the same thing... real quick fix

Don't think that is correct, Stern site shows them even at rest, and I asked at Expo and they said to center the bats on the alignment holes...my issue was when they were in the up position being uneven

All good now and can hit the Snikt shot on the plunge or from cradle and right flipper to the ramp and orbits...

Didn't think it was possible but I think it's smoother now
20220219_010157 (resized).jpg20220219_010213 (resized).jpg

I'm wondering who else has HIGH HIGH plays on their DP?

If uneven on the top position your flipper assy is off spec, this makes the coil stop sit a little bit weird and give the bat a little more travel.

I like simple logic and only do 1 adjustment at a time or things get wacky and out of spec.

The way I see it, If they were even at rest then the problem was on the coil stop/upper position only, by either the flipper assy being bent or the coil stop being out of spec.
Solution: replace coil stop.
If not fixed,
Straighten the flipper assy to increase coil stop contact.

Flippers must sit even both at rest and up as far I am concerned

Wanted to thank you both for this amazing idea.
I ended up adding a slingshot post in the same color, no more flyers!!!

I like the slim post because it doesnt choke the ball up much to interrupt flow, i am actually considering having a custom post in metal done that is slimmer. Alternatively a hex post might work as well but not sure what size thread those are as it needs to be a 6-32.

For now this works quite well but would like a thinner post so the ball can maintain most of its speed.

Thanks for sharing the idea!

My comment was just directed to flippers at rest. Glad your happy with it. My right flipper came slightly below center. When my ocd triggered and I fixed it, I couldn’t hit loop shots. Put it back, and it’s like butter.

Thanks, appreciate the feedback

Has anyone replaced the flat plastics on a pro with the figures from a premium? I didn't know if they needed something special for them to work.

Thanks, I changed coil stops.. There was slight uneven wear on the right one with the plunger contact, but they were still uneven after replacing, assemblies looked good and no binding or angle in the plungers (how would you straighten the assemblies in your explanation, the coil stops and coil bracket can only tighten to their base and the base is fixed... Would this be an assembly spec issue or was it installed slightly off in the playfield, if the latter, nothing I can do except for my fix I would think?)... After repositioning the Pawl travel point the only thing left to adjust was the resting travel position... So it may be that the C&C was slightly off, an assembly was put in slightly off, but either way, just a fraction, and I mean a fraction of a bend to the backstop (with the rubber grommet out) so that the pressure of the tool was directly centered, changed the resting positions to even.. so I'm even top and bottom now.. I may be slightly off 90 degrees on the backstop bracket, but it does very well...

I have to remind myself these are handmade on wood, it's amazing the tolerances that they can dial in with those be limitations

When it's time for a rebuild, I am may just get 2 entirely new full kit assemblies

Thanks for any further feedback

This is the first time I've encountered this issue on any of my pins (5) right now

I’m a big fan of the look of GZ with the TohoScope magnet on the right side of the speaker panel. So I went in search of something to put on DP that was similar. Found these two magnets, and I dig them.

68903AFF-7C42-4E9C-AE17-C31120F01559 (resized).jpeg8EDB83CF-5467-4538-A21D-23E0AF9DA409 (resized).jpegD66E93B6-B2C3-49D1-B276-199EE950E4A8 (resized).jpeg

Yeah had this issue on a diff game (williams) flippers were off at the top, my ocd could not handle it.
Upon inspection one of the assys was arched, very slightly.
If you put the assy on a flat surface and it wiggles like a table with uneven legs, that sort of thing.
Anyway, it made the coil to sit at an angle so it had more space for the plunger to travel.
I straighten the assy and the issue was fixed.

The joys of pinball tolerances or lack thereof. Lol

Oh gotcha, I see, my mind was thinking rotational alignment of the assembly, not a physical arch in the assembly, makes sense, thanks for the explanation.

A friend had all his flippers fall off a NIB Rush (overtorqued at factory and wood stripped out)
Only fix was to re attach in a different location by just rotating it slightly, works well. He is waiting for a new pf I believe.

All that to say, rotating the assy makes no difference after you adjust the bat.

Wow that's crazy, glad Stern is taking care of him

That makes total sense now thinking about the assemblies and their travel and position, really appreciate it

The scoop on my new DP premium consistently ejects to the lower half of the right slingshot. I have to drop the scoop power from the default 255 to 180 and even that is hitting very close to the right edge of the right flipper. I’ve tried various pitches from 6.5 - 7.25 with no change.

Does this sound normal? Seems like something must be misaligned.

You might need to take that mech off and look to make sure the guide out of the kick is straight. Definitely make sure nothing is in there, like a nut or small screw that could make the ball not sit straight. It’s either the ball not getting hit square from the coil and plunger, or the whole thing is sitting cockeyed. I’ve seen both.

Speaking of layout behavior, how close to the left along does everyone’s right or it shot come out and get? Mine skims that left orbit and every once in a while it catches it. But it come down so close to that sling that it’s a little tough time the catch.

Anyone install Insider Connected on Deadpool yet? I keep going back and forth about whether I want one or not. Achievements are cool and all, but once I get them all, I'm not sure how useful it will be for home use. Especially, because I doubt we will get any more firmware updates. Anything else it does that I am missing?

This is the piece I was talking about. Ugh. At least it’s out of site under the back box.

15535DD6-4A2B-48F3-A6E6-600C461F7051 (resized).jpeg

2D580D59-2DBA-4626-8D0D-683BA38FFAD7 (resized).jpeg

3B223B45-BBF3-4CDD-94AF-3511F47FCDC0 (resized).jpeg

The first layer on these cabs is very soft, it is some paper type material, I believe to save on the painting process.

Fill it will Fiber glass infused filler (mask up to save your lungs) sand and paint that section black.

Alternatively, you can glue this part back if it sits down nice and flush. Glue, clamp, fill the gaps.

It is a easy repair really. If you need a hand let me know I can guide you.

Came in with my prem. I forget to use half the time, it is really not impressive in any way - yet - the software is in its infancy ans it will take Stern a huge injection of time and money to make the platform really take it to the next level.
Time will tell but I predict this fading away soon.

Thanks, I’ll see what I can do first with glue and clamps . See how that fits. I’m going to have to do some touch up paint either way. Once I get my shit together and start this I’ll send you some pics.

If the piece isnt fitting well trim the ends a bit, as long as it sits flush it will glue down well, if it does not fit well - do not glue it - becauee it will make a bump on the top and it will be a lot of work to make it look right, not to mention the head will not sit on properly.

Do a dry test, if it is hard to lay down it will be harder when you add glue. When you clamp it make sure it does not want to slide out, you might need extra clamps or better, if it lays down well, you can use a couple finishing nails to hold it.

On my premium, my ball is almost never making it up the ramp to be able to continue disco loops. It goes up about half way and then rolls back down so it can’t continue. Not sure what is slowing it. Looks like the gate under the chimi truck is also staying down during that mode sometimes too which rejects the ball before it even gets there. Had an LE before this where I never had that issue. I’ll trouble shoot tonight but figured I would throw it out here in case someone else has had the same issue.

I feel like I should wait and see if more is added. Right now, I just don't see myself doing much with it.

I recently traded for a Deadpool Pro with custom light bars along the sides, red clip set, mirror blades, shaker, sub output so I hooked up a subwoofer, and the Cleland music mod. I am mesmerized by this machine and can't stop playing it. I definitely want mirror blades for all my machines now and light bars. I have a premium on order for August NIB because I think this is my favorite pin ever...but the premium will DEFINITELY have to have mirror blades, sub and Cleland R rated music mod and light bars or pin stadiums. WOW.