Anyone upgrade to 5.25" speakers through Pinwoofer or DIY? I'm trying to decide if going from the 4" to 5.25" is worth it.

Yes do it. Pinwoofer makes any pin rock!!!

Especially on LZ I bet!

Would be great on my, I mean your, deadpool premium!!!!!

I have it on mine it kicks ass!!!!

My pf glass already rattles when the bass hits!, I need to fix that before upgrading to any bigger speakers.

Any easy fixes out there? I've heard about using electrical tape on the glass edge but I really don't like the idea of potentially making a sticky mess and it binding up along the track

They make anti rattle tape. Don’t use electrical

https://www.pinballlife.com/anti-rattle-tape-12-x-25-ft.html

I put 2 layers on metallica, no more rattle!

I have a set of Flipper Fidelity pro/prem -> LE upgrade speakers sitting in my closet amongst the pile of things ready to go. Have read varying things about just how much better they'll sound vs. stock speakers, but what the Hell. Part of the previously mentioned side effect of ordering a machine and having nothing else to do for 2+ months while waiting for it.

Would contemplate adding a pinwoofer amp to it since I know that that's where the real improvement in sound lies, but I'm not even sure if I could at this point. Also within the pile is a pinnovators headphone kit which plugs into the same jack on the same node board that a pinwoofer amp would use. It's a question for another day. This is all ignoring the fact that I live in an apartment anyway and have neighborly courtesy issues to consider. I don't even have the chimes on my Jacks Open hooked up right now since I'm trying to be nice. Side note - playing an EM with just the sound of pops, drops and score reels clicking away is really an odd thing. Very mechanical.

Please note that the PinWoofer GT amp (GT = Glass Tamer) has some built in electronics to minimize the rattle of the playfield glass. It really does work nicely, but we still provide a couple strips of UHWM tape to address any lingering rattle. Some titles are worse than others.

Using other tapes such as electical tape technically works since the goal is to fill up the glass channel as much as possible. But, the drawback of most tapes is that they quickly delaminate and with electical tape in particular, leave behind a bunch of difficult to remove adhesive. The better glass tapes out there use acrylic adhesive and have a low coefficent of friction to make removal and replacement of the glass easier and the acrylic adhesive is easier to remove if necessary.

Good times!

PinWoofer.com

I've had the best success with using a small (1/2" - 3/4") piece of clear packing tape in each upper corner of the glass (topside) with very thin cardboard (like soda or beer 12 pack material) between the tape and glass.

Electrical tape won't take the abuse of sliding the glass on and off and leaves the glue goo behind...

You can use electrical tape on a few spots for the translite/backglass if needed. I usually put it on the track behind the back glass instead of on the backglass itself.

Impatiently passing the time waiting for my premium, so I made some coin reject inserts. If anyone's interested - PM me an email address and I'll send a PDF that you can print.

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Does anyone have these items lying around they’d like to sell?

Please pm me to sell them to me:
Stern Deadpool shooter rod
Stern 1st edition art blades

Thanks all!

Went to my local supplier to look at a used Attack from Mars le he got in. While there I played a Deadpool pro. Tuesday he will be delivering The Deadpool. Game was fast and fun. Not to mention thousands cheaper.

What are the 1st edition art blades?

Deadpool was my first and favourite game.

Until i got Attack From Mars.

They have the art blades back in stock in case ya didn’t know.
Edit:shit they are sold out never mind.

If I had to guess it would be the official ones that Stern produced.

https://shop.sternpinball.com/products/deadpool-inside-art-blades

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I just got a set of those from pinballlife.

Nice! I made some similar ones for my machine last year.

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The art blades are all over eBay and other pinball sites...

wouldn't that be the backglass and not the pf glass?

Honestly afm is simplicity personified yet perfected. I love deadpool, but if I had to pick one.... afm.

I’d pick DP 100/100 times over afm

These are the first edition art blades

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Oh never saw those before. Wonder why they changed em?

Aren’t those the LE art blades?

I am 95% sure those aren't "first edition", but rather the LE blades, which you will not get other than buying an LE.

Yup those are LE blades

Installing the mod couple hellhouse mod, and can’t figure out where to connect the alligator clips to. Located the red LED but don’t see where alligator clips can attach. Can anyone provide a pic?

Thanks in advance.

can you order the LE blades from stern?

No, unless you own an LE and damage them which could be a work around for someone who wants to work the system. they would need to be in stock but not sure if they are.

Le art is limited to Les . I haven’t seen them sell them on the website unless I missed it

We are back y'all! This has been the longest week ever without Pinside.

Yes! Good to have you back robin And fwiw, I prefer the art blades from @tiltgraphics.

Next to the scoop mechanism on the underside of the playfield there's a dedicated led light that illuminates the scoop. You have to cut away some of the shrink wrap off the connections to that light and clip the alligators there. Red to red, black to black. I can take a pic for you tomorrow if you still can't figure it out.

I installed an anti lean bracket on the snikt target, and this is the position where it ends up. The thicker part of the target does not touch the ball guide but the thinner part can. Is this an okay position, or does the target need to be moved forward more? It seems like I'm getting a lot of shots that hit the target but don't make it up the ramp. I've read the key posts related to the target but I'm not sure how far forward it really needs to be.

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That looks perfect to me. Mine sits in the exact same position but it had previously shifted towards the spinner so that the fat part was hitting the ball guide which was causing problems.

Pitch, flipper alignment and strength are also going to play a part in making the Snikt shot. It is not easy!

Mine is in very similar position. Just make sure that the target hitting the guide doesn't prevent the switch from activating. I trimmed the small lip that extends to the rear of the target where it hits the guide, just to make sure.

I have about ~3000 plays on mine since the change. Works great and nearly eliminates the lean.

Mine doesn't touch it at all. I believe somewhere earlier in the thread Stern confirmed it isn't supposed to make any contact with the guide.

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I get my fair share of rejects at the scoop with the stock version. How hard is the Cliffy one to install? I've done a few of his shooter lane installs before...so how does this compare?

Got my deposit in for a Prem...can't wait!

Here's the picture of how it should look, according to George Gomez:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/92#post-5300308

Thanks everyone for the replies. I used a 3d-printed bracket that seemed to have a good tight fit, and the target still moved just enough that the thick part would hit the ball guide, after just a few games.

Mine seems to be right in between these two, which seems like it's not good enough. I was hoping to avoid drilling new holes!

I had zero luck with the 3D printed bracket, but the Anti-Sway bracket from Pinbal Life works well.

Mine doesn't hit the guide either... trimmed the back lip to make sure it doesn't. Stock holes using the anti-sway bracket, puts it slightly towards the rear more than "recommended", but that's exactly where it sat from the factory, until it leaned over further up the playfield before the ant-sway bracket. Seems to work fine there, very difficult shot, but makeable.

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Fun stuck ball on ninja multiball yesterday... I sent one ball around the left orbit with pace and pretty much immediately after sent one around the right orbit, they collided and one flew over the lift ramp and got stuck.

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Just got my NIB Pro last weekend, loving this game so far. Curious if the game needs a plastic protector set, I see the washers under the slings, anyone getting broken plastics on this machine? 60 games in and I haven't had any real air balls yet. This one is gonna be in the collection for awhile, so I wanna take care of it. Also any recommended mods for the Pro (already have the sub out).

The protectors I make are more for looks (they are functional but just add that extra touch). I wouldn’t say they are needed. The plastic over the left ramp is in much more danger. I make a metal mod for there. Tons of ways to mod DP out. It’s an awesome game.

Deadpool pro right orbit shot seems clunky. Does anybody else feel the same? I am curious if anyone has any advice on how to tune this shot or if there are any mods that might make this shot a bit smoother. Seems like the right orbit shot could use a little help.

Ball Guide and Ramp Washers to protect the playfield
- Katana ball guide behind Lil Deadpool can wear into the clear and chip under the front blue bumper
- Wolverine ball guide behind the spinner. This can also wear into the clear
- Left ramp, the bumpers take a beating here and the straight edges of the ramp can eat into the clear

Comet LED kit with spotlights
- the warmer whites help the art on the plastics pop a bit better. It also removes all of the red LEDs
- Spotlights really brighten the middle of the playfield which can be dark depending on how well lit your room and this machine are

Mezel Mod Katana Handle
- purely cosmetic but the "braiding" on this looks nice. I feel it is a tad chunky but it looks nice and is simple to install

New Balls
- the Stern factory balls are not great. Smoother balls will track less dirt around the playfield.

Shooter Lane Protector
- personal preference. At the very least turn down the eject strength, it is cranked pretty high out of the box.

Hellhouse Scoop Protector
- it comes with a thin one but this can bend easily and cause rejects. Cliffy makes a wider one that some people seem to prefer.

Ball guide and left ramp washers are the biggies if you want to protect the playfield. You may not have issues with them but if you search this thread you will find many many people who have experienced some damage to their playfields because of this.