Quoted from JonCBrand:

I'm doing some investigation on this ball rejection issue. I don't think it is the wire pressed into PF. Im thinking its air ball or possibly this section of the rail that is out. When manually rolling ball past that it catches the lower edge.
I'm going to fix the rail and make a plastic airball deflector.
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Quoted from Bundy:

What happens is that sometimes a hard hit from the left flipper into the right orbit causes the ball to get air born off the playfield and it hits the underside of the Katana causing it to die.
You can dial down the power of the left flipper or put a piece of Lexan under the Katana to force the ball down. That way it will make the orbit.
Rest it on the guide rail to the left and on the red plastic to the right.

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Anyone having the playfield coating start coming up near the rollovers? See what I mean just above the word Deadpool in the pic. Any tips for how to fix? I think someone had mentioned mylar but have no idea how to do this or if its worth it. Its really not bad right now but thinking it will get worse over time. thanks all.
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Quoted from DaddyManD:

OK so I removed the "staple" from right orbit Domino lane thinking this could be the reason for ball rejection causing ball to fall hard back down into shooter lane after a "clunk" sound. Some pics of the removed item for reference. After a few plays I am reporting what a few others suspected that this was not the issue because I still had rejections even with staple removed. I put the staple back (especially since not thrilled about open holes on a playfield. After spending some time under the katana and watching this shot closely, I now believe the ball is hitting the quite sharp round metal screw bracket holding down the katana. Holding a ball under it with my hand there is less than 1/4 inch clearance so any air and it will hit this and create that loud clunk and reject the ball down. I suppose only fix could be a plastic airball protector but not sure how to mount it. A few folks had the same theory so if anyone tried this please post!
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Quoted from DaddyManD:

Anyone having the playfield coating start coming up near the rollovers? See what I mean just above the word Deadpool in the pic. Any tips for how to fix? I think someone had mentioned mylar but have no idea how to do this or if its worth it. Its really not bad right now but thinking it will get worse over time. thanks all.
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Quoted from PinMonk:

It looks like your one has clear pooling/ink lifting. You definitely want to address that ASAP. I'd use the vinyl iron/mylar combination fix. The iron to flatten out the lifting again, and the mylar to protect the area from chipping.
It's covered here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

Quoted from Jediturtle:

Are you sure that isn’t just mylar around the pop area lifting a bit? It looks as if it’s nicely cut around the lane guides. I’m not sure if they came with protected from the factory or not but I know many games do.

Quoted from Jediturtle:

Are you sure that isn’t just mylar around the pop area lifting a bit? It looks as if it’s nicely cut around the lane guides. I’m not sure if they came with protected from the factory or not but I know many games do.

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Bundy after experimenting and thinking I had a different issue...you were right! I didn't realize how little air was needed but even 1/8th or 1/4 inch air would do it under the katana. Did you add the plastic airball protector and if so any pics?
thanks!

Quoted from gumnut01:

But without the staple did the clunk sound go away? Also how did you remove the staple by bashing with a nail or nail punch underneath? Tried to remove one of these in another pin and failed.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Hard to tell from the picture, but if all of them were protected with mylar it doesn't explain what looks like a deep scratch on the post to the left of it. Whatever the case, IRL I'm sure he'll be able to tell and he now has all the info he needs if it isn't protected.

Quoted from tilted81:

I agree. Following the contour lines on the post to the right, I’m pretty certain that’s just Mylar lifting. In fact, the one to the right also looks as though it’s starting to lift slightly

Quoted from DaddyManD:

I do think this is the case...so can I just remove the mylar (if just added by factory for extra protection) and replace? I am also looking into PinMonks solution.

Quoted from awesome1:

I did notice that I haven't beaten the very low 'Lil Deadpool Frenzy high score, though I am certain that I have... anyone else notice this new high score for that mode not working or am I just imagining it?

Quoted from StoneyFL:

Thanks for posting about this. I noticed the low default high score this morning, and wondered how I'd never beat it before. I fired up a game and easily beat the default high score, but it did not update or ask me to enter initials. Seems like this may be a bug.

Quoted from mostater:

This is a coding bug, for sure.
I also noticed that Ninjapocolypse does always get activated when it should. Seems like that non-activation is only occurring within certain modes. I will try to pay attention to see what those modes are. Anyone else noticing this? Never had an issue with Ninjapocolypse prior to the most recent code update. It's my favorite combo shot.

Quoted from mostater:

This is a coding bug, for sure.
I also noticed that Ninjapocolypse does always get activated when it should. Seems like that non-activation is only occurring within certain modes. I will try to pay attention to see what those modes are. Anyone else noticing this? Never had an issue with Ninjapocolypse prior to the most recent code update. It's my favorite combo shot.

Quoted from glende:

Only played on 1.05, the ninjapocalypse doesn't trigger in Megalodon for me. Posted earlier about modes not starting sometimes a few posts back.

Quoted from Jediturtle:

Yes, you can remove it and replace if you choose too. I would personally leave it until it peels much worse. You could also try carefully trimming off the peeled part. And if you do remove, you really do not need to replace in a home environment, but of course it doesn't hurt to have.
I would not try ironing it or any other craziness. That solution is for clearcoat issues, not mylar (disclaimer, I have never tried it). Mylar is basically just a clear sticker over a (usually) smallish area. It is not the same as clearcoat.

Quoted from tilted81:

I would heat it with a hair dryer in hope of reactivating the adhesive, and then try to push it back down w/ my finger. If that doesn’t work I’d do everything else jediturlte has suggested.

Quoted from bigchief99:

Hello,
I need help for a friend/doctor (who does not live close) that only owns a Deadpool LE and is having some trouble with his machine. I told him I would post and ask this question in the Deadpool forum. According to him on a two player game the ball is auto launching for the second player without touching the machine. I don't thing he is having a problem during a single player game( not 100% sure). He is not a pinball tech guy but I told him it is probably a switch or opto. Again I have never been to his house or saw the machine in person. Would a tech error show up in the diagnostic service menu? I have searched a little on pinside and there was a similar problem on a AC/DC Luci where people suggested to reseat the connectors on the drop targets or something(sensitive switch anywhere on the playfield) might be causing it or maybe the button on the lock door bar.
Any help in this matter would be much appreciated. I will check back for updates or people can message me. Thanks again.

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Thanks so much all! It really does look like mylar lifting to me. It's not a scratch but the mylar actually coming up. But i think PinMonk's solution is something I will look in to either way.

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Yes, I tapped it from underneath with a nail punch and then pulled the final bit out from the top of playfield with needle nose pliers. Yes, it dead soften the clunk sound when the ball rounds the corner, but then leaves you with open holes in playfield you'd have to cover. But it did not fix the clunk followed by ball rejection issue which was the main reason for the fix attempt. SO while I was originally convinced the staple needed to come out...I wound up putting it back in.

Quoted from bigchief99:

Hello,
I need help for a friend/doctor (who does not live close) that only owns a Deadpool LE and is having some trouble with his machine. I told him I would post and ask this question in the Deadpool forum. According to him on a two player game the ball is auto launching for the second player without touching the machine. I don't thing he is having a problem during a single player game( not 100% sure). He is not a pinball tech guy but I told him it is probably a switch or opto. Again I have never been to his house or saw the machine in person. Would a tech error show up in the diagnostic service menu? I have searched a little on pinside and there was a similar problem on a AC/DC Luci where people suggested to reseat the connectors on the drop targets or something(sensitive switch anywhere on the playfield) might be causing it or maybe the button on the lock door bar.
Any help in this matter would be much appreciated. I will check back for updates or people can message me. Thanks again.

Quoted from glpinball:

I have seen the auto launch problem, albeit not restricted to 2 player but I bet I know what the issue is. Check that the drop targets (Dead, Pool) or mini deadpool are resetting correctly. If they fail to reset correctly (all up), and for sure you notice this in a 2 player game because someone just knocked some down, I believe the game thinks it's doing an autosave or something since targets are down and auto lunches.
If that is the case you can try bending the hell out of the drop targets forward so they catch on the plastic ledge properly. In my case I ended up getting a replacement drop target for "Pool" from Stern. "Dead" started doing it but some bending worked.

Quoted from Bramvk:

"bending the hell out of the drop targets forward" Bend what part of the drop target? Top of the drop target or the middle or bottom?

Quoted from DudeRegular:

If the drop targets won't stay up you may need a new "ledge".
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-3-bank-target-rest-ledge.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-4-bank-target-rest-ledge.html
These break. Then the drops will not stay up and can cause weird behavior as mentioned above.

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Bundy after experimenting and thinking I had a different issue...you were right! I didn't realize how little air was needed but even 1/8th or 1/4 inch air would do it under the katana. Did you add the plastic airball protector and if so any pics?
thanks!

Quoted from glpinball:

This too, although in my case they were not broken.

Quoted from zeldarioid:

Hey, all! SNIKT fix question here. I’ve searched through the thread and found out about the anti-sway bracket to make the SNIKT shot sturdier, and I’ve gotten and applied that. The question I have now is: Where should the target rest above the playfield for it to play as-intended? Does it want to contact the metal of the guard rail in that inner loop shot at all, or no? Does it want to be parallel with the black line in front of it, just behind, seated on top of it? Angled in any particular way? Etc.
Applying the SNIKT bracket certainly helps to keep the target in place, wherever that place may be, but I’m having trouble determining where exactly the target should be seated to be as effective and makeable as intended by the designer, and was wondering if anyone had any specific advice on the actual positioning?

Quoted from zeldarioid:

Hey, all! SNIKT fix question here. I’ve searched through the thread and found out about the anti-sway bracket to make the SNIKT shot sturdier, and I’ve gotten and applied that. The question I have now is: Where should the target rest above the playfield for it to play as-intended? Does it want to contact the metal of the guard rail in that inner loop shot at all, or no? Does it want to be parallel with the black line in front of it, just behind, seated on top of it? Angled in any particular way? Etc.
Applying the SNIKT bracket certainly helps to keep the target in place, wherever that place may be, but I’m having trouble determining where exactly the target should be seated to be as effective and makeable as intended by the designer, and was wondering if anyone had any specific advice on the actual positioning?
It seems at the moment that only a really strong, square shot to the bottom edge of the target (not the face of the target), basically letting the ball contact the pop bumper behind the target, is what reliably shoots the ball up the ramp. Hitting the face of the target itself seems to just either jump up off the playfield, or go partially up the ramp before coming back down.

Quoted from DudeRegular:

If the drop targets won't stay up you may need a new "ledge".
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-3-bank-target-rest-ledge.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-4-bank-target-rest-ledge.html
These break. Then the drops will not stay up and can cause weird behavior as mentioned above.

Quoted from zeldarioid:

Hey, all! SNIKT fix question here. I’ve searched through the thread and found out about the anti-sway bracket to make the SNIKT shot sturdier, and I’ve gotten and applied that. The question I have now is: Where should the target rest above the playfield for it to play as-intended? Does it want to contact the metal of the guard rail in that inner loop shot at all, or no? Does it want to be parallel with the black line in front of it, just behind, seated on top of it? Angled in any particular way? Etc.
Applying the SNIKT bracket certainly helps to keep the target in place, wherever that place may be, but I’m having trouble determining where exactly the target should be seated to be as effective and makeable as intended by the designer, and was wondering if anyone had any specific advice on the actual positioning?
It seems at the moment that only a really strong, square shot to the bottom edge of the target (not the face of the target), basically letting the ball contact the pop bumper behind the target, is what reliably shoots the ball up the ramp. Hitting the face of the target itself seems to just either jump up off the playfield, or go partially up the ramp before coming back down.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Click on the topic index at the top of any page of this thread and look for the one that says "SNIKT target alignment - Per George Gomez" - click on that.

Quoted from oldmanpinball:

try shimming the ledge out a thin pice of hard cardboard or washers that took care of it for me

Quoted from scottieIA:

Anyone ever get the Magic Unicorn Power? 2X playfield for the rest of your ball. I had a game that I just focused on Little DP to get more initials on the leaderboard and LDP has some surprising points.

Quoted from scottieIA:

Anyone ever get the Magic Unicorn Power? 2X playfield for the rest of your ball. I had a game that I just focused on Little DP to get more initials on the leaderboard and LDP has some surprising points.