Did you try the coil test for the lil Deadpool drop down targets?

Ok, did the switch and coil tests. The opto switch in the lil Deadpool target capture area behind right drop target tests and registers fine.

However during the coil tests, the lil DP 3 bank drop TRIP didn’t do anything while the Lil DP 3 bank drop RESET fires and seems to work. Since the “Trip” test didn’t drop the targets I manually dropped them to make sure the “reset” fires and raised them up. Reset seems to work. Trip does not.

Just confirmed on my game.
The trip should drop all 3 targets.

Lift your playfield up and go back to the reset test to check to make sure your magnet is working. (Close the coin door so you can reach the test buttons while you stand on the side of your machine to see the mechanism.) Easy test... put a flat blade screwdriver near the magnet and try the test you’ll feel the magnet pull the tip of your screwdriver if the magnet works. If it is working then maybe the plate spacing is too far and the magnet cannot pull it so you might have to bend that plate closer to the magnet. Here’s a pic of the spacing on mine.

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***you can manually reset the drop targets by pressing any of the three metal levers up all the way.
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Just a thought, have you contacted your distributor about this issue?

Yes, but he just told me to open a ticket with Stern. I did that and haven’t heard anything from stern yet. It’s a bit frustrating being a brand new machine that I basically can’t play after owning it less than a week. And I love this game. I was having so much fun before this happened, lol! I’m decent at basics like replacing coil stops and sleeves, soldering wires, etc. But I’ve just never experienced this issue, especially in less than a week of ownership.

Thanks! I’ll give that a try. Previously, I have lifted up the playfield and examined that plate and small coil. There was a previous post in this forum about something somewhat similar to my issue. It had to do with bending that plate closer to the small coil. I toyed with that a little bit and nothing changed. But I will try that experiment with the screwdriver. Thx again for your help

I can't believe there are distro's that aren't the go-between with Stern for NIB issues like this. You just spent a LARGE chunk of money, and they aren't going to offer assistance?

I'd be moving on to someone else after that.

Do the DP Premiums come with powder coated ball rails?

Nope

Plain black.

My bad I was thinking the side rails!

One of the rails is red powder coated.

Thank you, I didn't see it listed under the descriptions. I'm thinking about selling my Pro for a Prem

Here’s a pic of my premium playfield.

I’m of the mindset that if you’re gonna buy a pin you should get all the playable stuff on the game. I don’t like that the pros are missing features of the game.

Although DP is not missing a lot in the pro it’s still a difference in gameplay. I’m glad I did not get the pro to save money. I’m not saying the pro is bad.... it’s just my opinion that the premium is the way to go. The artwork is amazing on the cabinet but I’ll be honest I do really like the pro artwork a lot.
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Thx for the tip. I did what you said and the magnet in the small coil is definitely working. Not the strongest magnetization but maybe that’s how it is. Seemed functional. I decided to unscrew the mounted plate that the small coil pulls on that drops the targets. I think it was sticking and not dropping them. I simply re-attached and now in coil test mode it drops and resets perfectly in test mode(both TRIP and RESET). However when a ball is inside the capture area with the playfield lowered it struggles to drop that right target. It keeps trying though and by the the 2nd or 3rd try typically it will drop and release the ball. Bummer since it interrupts game play and loses time in timed modes. But it’s better than not releasing the ball at all. Oh well. Something about the ball resting on that target that’s impeding a clean drop. I wonder how to get that drop to happen easier when the ball is inside resting on there target?

I prefer the artwork on the Prem. Additionally like the left orbit to right flipper. My cafe went out of business due to Covid. I'm selling a lot of my machines and keeping my dream themes at home. So I might upgrade my Pro to a Premium. Does the Premium fix the clunky right orbit or is it the same as Pro?

Haven’t played the pro. But right orbit still clunks on premium. Makes it around pretty quick though. Left orbit is great. Like an orbit that turns into a ramp. One of the best shots in the game.

Keep at it.

Sounds like it just needs some more adjustments.

Mine used to work fine while I was playing games until I got to the T-Rex mode (when it drops all 3 of the targets so you can hit the lip DP target)

It’s actually funny because I thought it was a mode of the game. The drop tartgets would not drop down and the coil would fire 3 times in a row(every time) and keep repeating itself every few minutes. I thought it was supposed to replicate the T-Rex stomping it’s feet. Yeah funny but embarrassing that I thought that.
I could never beat the T-Rex mode until I realized it was not actually supposed to do that. It it was a great feeling once I figured it out and finally beat the T-Rex!

Anyway, if I remember correctly, I just got in there and bent the plate to repair it once I saw what needed to happen. Someone else here on pinside helped me through it by telling me how the drop targets were supposed to actually work and by giving me advice on where to look.

Good luck!

You might need to just adjust the targets too! They can be pushed back or forward slightly so they go up and down cleanly.

Sorry to hear about the cafe... this Covid thing is ruining a lot for many.

Not sure why you had a clunky right orbit? Premium right orbit is smooth but there is a gate up there if that’s what you’re referring to?

Ha! I would have assumed the same thing about T-Rex thumping, lol. I’m always slow to realize what the actual rules of modes are. I’ll keep messing with that plate and maybe bending the drops a bit. I can’t thank you enough for your help! It’s an awesome game.

They’re referring to the wire guide at playfield level next to the shooter lane exit which the ball skips over when the ball goes into the right orbit. Just makes a clunk sound. Ball still goes around orbit smoothly.

On mine, that (chimichanga) gate does interfere with the right orbit at times. Usually not on shots, but occasionally on a ball launch. It is irritating, too, because a slow rolling ball out of that right orbit limits some shots that can be made. I figure the "random" interference is just part of the pinball experience.

The Extra Ball light on my DP seems to work intermittently in that it can be fine for a few games, then not working and then fine again. I have read through this thread and tried the suggested steps of checking connections and reseating cables, which works for a bit but then it will start acting up again. Reseating the cable between Node 9A (CN3) and 9B (CN2) is a temp fix and I have checked and reseated the RJ-45 connectors for good measure too. It is specifically the Extra Ball LED and no others on this board that are affected.

Has anyone else experienced this or similar? If it ends up being the cable does anyone know the part # for the Node 9a CN3 to Node 9b CN2 serial cable?

I had a similar issue with several controlled lamps on the playfield going out intermittently. After about 6 months of messing around with reseating things I ended up just replacing both of the .100" connectors on the right side of node 8. It's been rock solid since.

I think the EB light has it's own wire and connector coming from the large under-playfield light board. Make sure that connection is good and tight before going further.

Thanks for the tips, this has been driving me batty so I appreciate that you have experienced and fixed a similar problem. I have been leaning towards to connectors and cable as well, I'll see if I can find a pre built cable cause I don't have crimping tools to build.

Can you describe this a bit more? I'll have to lift the playfield again but I do not recall seeing that on the Node 9b board. Would I have to unmount the board? I'll take another peek this afternoon.

All my issues were from the node 8 board connectors CN2 and CN3. The manual has the lights and what node board connector they come from. I'd say 90% of the playfield lights come from node 8 by the flippers. Those connectors CN2 and CN3 on node 8 jump to the light insert boards and daisy chain around. I was having issues with the rollover lights above each lane along with most of the inserts in the middle of the playfield. CN2 and CN3 on the right side of node 8 that must of had a bad connection so I replaced. Yeah you're going to need .100" connectors and a crimper to replace them.

There's a connector on the center large insert board and the EB light has it's own separate wire and connector to the center insert light board. I remember having issues with that one light and reseating the one connector took care of that. Try removing the connector and slightly bend the pins out to give it more tension when you reinsert the connector. Worth a shot.

There are several games where I (and several others) prefer the pro to the premium. I absolutely would not choose the premium of Iron Maiden or Walking Dead over the pro versions that I own. Guardians is another great example. While I would love (and could afford) a Deadpool premium, a pro came up for sale locally and it was too good of a deal to pass up. I've yet to see a premium for sale anywhere near me, and the NIB experience is not anything I'm concerned with, so I'm totally fine with a $5k pro that was loaded with good mods (speaker lights, mirror blades, headphone jack, shooter lane protector, shaker motor) and barely played when I got it. The only reason I'd sell it is if I know I have a premium coming to replace it.

The pro vs. premium debate will rage on forever... changing either camps mind I don't think will ever happen but the debates are fun I'd like to spend more time on a IMDN Pro, I owned the Prem and miss it, but don't miss the slow downs the lift ramp and ball lock add... I'd like to spend more time on a TWD as I owned the Pro and miss it, but the lift ramp for Bicycle Girl is cool and more drop targets are ALWAYS a good thing and so are spinners, so more time on the Premium would be nice for me.

DP Pro is an awesome game, DP Prem is an awesome game, buy what works for you and you can get your hands on... I do love the Premium artwork, my favourite of the three.

Are we being punked? Why is the Pro vs Prem/LE discussion happening again? Did we already run out of other topics? Is the new code already old news? Can we talk about the katana ramp washer fix instead? Or maybe we need to remove a few post rubbers to stir up some gameplay debate.

If you want a Prem/LE then get one. If you want a Pro then get one. Does the more expensive game by thousands of dollars have more on it. I sure as heck hope so. Is it worth it? Who cares besides the person buying.

Oh do you mean the Shoot Again light between the flippers? If so that makes a lot of sense, otherwise I don't think the Extra Ball light leading into the scoop has a separate connector. I have however tried your other suggestion of bending the pins slightly for a firmer connection so we'll see if this holds. If not I'll get some new connectors and rebuild this cable.

Edit: Well that lasted a game and a half. New connectors and cable it is!

My IMDN ball save light started going out. I reseated the connectors and it’s been good. But, definitely following your progress in case new wire harness is needed.

What is the Katana washer ramp fix?

I should have said the ball guide leading to the katana ramp.

You can see some washers here to raise the ball guide so it does not chip the playfield, but Cliffy also has a protector for this.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/protecting-katana-lane-entrance-from-playfield-damage

Cliffy's for Deadpool can be found on his Works in Progress page. The Katana nub is what you would be looking for and it will look like this when installed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/79#post-5153735

Got my topper set up today. YouTube was giving me issues so I’ve included an iCloud link. Hopefully it works!

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0K-c1KJwZJZHTG0nxnnBGbSfw#Toronto

details on install please..did u tap into wiring in head or still on batteries?mounting did u use velcro?

thx thc

One of my favourite quotes seems to be sacrificed in the new code, " I'm a Poët, didn't know it". Has anyone heard it since updating?

I'm pretty sure I heard it just the other day.

I dont recall hearing that one much beforehand

Hello everyone. I recently bought Neo Pin Stadiums for my DP and I am having a hard time hooking up the flasher alligator clips. My instinct is to hook them up to the dazzler light. But the darn thing is part of a circuit board and I have no idea how to safely tap into it. Have any of you successfully hooked these up? If so, what did you end up tapping into? Any other pointers on Pin Stadiums?

Hit up the Pinstadium thread, and search within it for Deadpool, plenty of examples there. You can also reach out to Scott at Pinstadium and he probably has direct links bookmarked he can share with you.

Thanks! Scott responded instantly and hooked me up with the link. This community is excellent.

Anyone ever get an issue before where a lot of the inserts will briefly blink every time you hit a flipper button? I searched the thread and couldn't find anything, but then "blinking" and "flipper" aren't the most useful search terms. Of course I assume a connection is slightly loose somewhere, but just checking if anyone has had this before and has any specific knowledge of the problem.

It's still there.

Loose connection or an intermittent break. Figure out WHICH inserts are doing it and you can narrow it down to which connectors service those to check them.

If it's GI doing this, that's usually a bad GI bulb. Stern uses really cheap ones.

Okay thanks! I’m glad. What a great game.

Seems like it's the bottom third randomly. Often it's the villain name and X multiplier inserts, but I think I just notice them more since they're front and center.

I pushed most light board and other connectors in more tightly, and also zip tied some wires away from a coil lug (still slightly touching though, just in a bad spot), and the blinking has improved, but still there. Less bright on the blinks, and now only maybe every one of every three flips instead of every flip.

Here's a quick video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ofBohjFthfU6SiUS7

Thanks Vic.

I had a light issue for awhile that kept coming back. I was always just pushing the connections in but it seemed to come back after a few games. What seemed to fix it for me was taking the light connections all the way out and then plugging back in tightly.

All of the problem lights are coming off Node 8 via CN3. I'd try sliding both ends of that on and off a few times in case the pins have oxidized (how old is this machine?) over time to try to clean them a little.

Also, look at the solder pads on the back of the board (that you see) - both ends of the cable, on Node 8 and Node 8b where the connector header pins connect with your phone magnifying the area greatly and see if there's any cold solder cracking lines, which means the solder needs to be reflowed.

If it's none of those, you can swap node 8 and node 9 (resetting the dip switches to tell 8 it's 9 now and vice versa, the info's in the manual pdf). If that solves the issue, you need to get your node 8 repaired. Hit up Borygard for that. He fixes them.

Here are your affected lights and the board and connectors:
2x 8b
4x 8b
5x 8b

Sauron 8b CN3-9
-B 8b CN3-4
-O 8b CN3-5
-O 8b CN3-10
-M 8b CN3-11

Best place to buy flipper link assys and coil stops in the US?
Anyplace w shipping significantly cheaper than Marco?
Who makes the stronger aftermarket stops?