I've been waiting for my Cliffy to make the same change. The real thing does look quite a bit better.

Help. I can't for the life of me figure out where this Cliffy goes...

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That's the right half of the shooter lane protector.

(Note: Cliffy's pic, not mine. In my experience some mylar and turning down the trough eject power has been plenty of protection for that area.)

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Thank you!

They suck!
I cut the one I had off my F-14. Particles get under it and the bottom scratched and looked like shit. I'm too OCD for all that. Just put Mylar in high wear areas like around pop bumpers and ball drop points and shooter lane, and clean regularly with Novus 1. Whenever I start to see ball trails (like in the In-Lanes) I clean it. Use a vacuum to suck out any loose particles (if there's a lot) or use forced air to blow out (I have a portable air tank with air gun). Then use Novus 1 to clean, then wipe down with lint free cloth. No need to remove old wax. When it's time to wax, do the same thing plus wax. Use Novus 2 if you have ground in ball swirls or scratches you want to remove. Novus 2 has abrasive in it. For home use only, playfield protectors are not necessary and are a PITA. Unless you have a playfield with raised inserts (like F-14), then it can smooth out the surface so game plays better. I wound up replacing the playfield in mine with the PPS repro one. I did not install the protector again.

I had one on a Guardians of the Galaxy and grew to hate it. It plays differently. Less friction. Outlane saves were pretty much impossible.

Totally fair

i see balltrails after 3-5 hours of gameplay in my in-lanes, do they get permanent if i wait longer for cleaning?
and you said "when its time to wax"... when is the time to wax? i try to avoid it, since it changes ball movement so much, and i suck bad times since i cant predict the ball movement anymore.

Very slight ball trails are nothing to worry about, I mean after they've been there for a couple weeks or so. It only takes a few minutes to clean them off and it will keep crud from grinding in. If you don't clean off the crud, you will get ground in ball swirls over time and then you have a much bigger job using Novus 2 (slightly abrasive) which make a mess (gets into slots and holes etc). Now you're removing plastics etc. Also, get a rubber cleaner and clean the rubbers when they get dirty. Also very easy and fast. I only wax about every 500-600 plays. The hard to get to loops that require removing everything (if it's a real PITA) don't get done but once in a blue moon (after a couple years). But that's me. I have even put down Mylar in such places so I don't have to worry about it. Then just blow out the loose dirt with forced air in those areas.
Wax is just a sacrificial layer of protection. You don't have to do it. Most people like waxing. I notice that it plays faster at first but returns to normal play fairly quick.
Also, if you put down Mylar, wax first. It comes off much easier in the future if needed. This is really important if it's an old playfield so that the paint doesn't come off.
If you wax, use 'One Grand Blitz Carnauba Wax'
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thanks, i also have the blitz wax and enjoy using it, but my gameplay sucks for days after using it. and doesn't that mean that the wax is gone after that period and the PF is "unprotected" again? i dont get it.
the fast going balls are also the reason i do not clean the PF as a whole with novus, but in sections with a few days in between, to reduce the crazy going balls.

No, it's not gone, it's just not as smooth as it first was.
I don't clean the whole thing every time either, just where it's easiest and you learn where the dirt piles up faster after a while.
I always suck. So waxing doesn't affect me that much..

Guys,

I'm sorry if this has already been covered here but, can anyone show me how they covered their shooter lane using mylar? Did you cover the first 3-inch length, over the entire lane width (obviously without covering rollover switch)?

Thanks!

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I cover about 6 inches of the lane starting at the very back. I use a razor blade to cut out the space for the switch after installing it.

Clean the area well with 97% rubbing alcohol and let it dry.

Basically just make a long mylar rectangle that's WIDER than the area you want to cover (the dip in the trough of the shooter lane will eat up some of the material, so you need more width than you think). Then take the backing off the mylar, and starting on the right side (level side), line it up and press it so it butts right up to the right wall. then as you lay it down, working your way left, rapidly run your fingernailup and down the trough so the mylar adheres well with no bubbles. Mylar OVER the shooter switch (make sure the machine is OFF when you do this). Then make sure you have a nice 3/8" - 1/2" lip on the left side so there's plenty to adhere to the wood. then go back and rub on the mylar all over in long strokes to make sure you get good adhesion. Finally, take an x-acto and carefully cut out the hole for the shooter lane switch.
shooter-lane-mylar-example (resized).jpg

Thanks, Guys! Excellent instruction!

BOOM! button.
I know this awards whatever the last thing was in the mode at the time....
but it would be fun if it announced what it was awarding.

You should apply a bit of wax first so the mylar can be removed easier if need be.

i have the problem that my mylar does not hold very well, i guess its the product itself since i cleaned with alcohol.

That video's a bit much, in my opinion. The heavy wear area is at the bottom, near the trough eject. Mylar there, regularly clean and wax the rest.

its not my video, if you want to use less mylar- fine. Stil nice to see it on a video.
I know games where the trough and the shooter lane on the top got wear, so why save money on a 0.2$ peace.

Oh I agree, it's a great demonstration of how to apply it. I wasn't thinking of saving money, more of saving the pain and heartache associated with laying down so much mylar.

I use a shooter lane protector on my Stern games. Much better than mylar and prevents chipping (which mylar won’t).

https://cointaker.com/products/pinball-shooter-lane-protector

There are several sites that sell these. The link attached is for reference.

thats funny, because i read lots of bad reviews on those, thats why i went with mylar.
and you say it wont protect from chipping? thats the only reason i use it for. is this from your own experience?
if so, ill consider this protector too. cliffy's protectors cause some problems too from what i heard, because they are too thick.

The alcohol is to REMOVE residual wax and dirt. There's enough ball action there that you want as much hold as possible, and wax will reduce that.

I hate those plastic sleeves for the shooter lane. Give me mylar or a cliffy any day.

Somebody out there needs to make a template for cutting this piece of Mylar for the shooter lane. It would be convenient.

It's a little different from machine to machine on the left side, but I suppose you could make a generic template and people could cut it to fit from there.

I can tell when it is ejecting strong enough to chip the clear. These won’t allow that to happen. Read into reviews whatever you want. These work and any machine of mine that I feel needs that kind of shooter lane protection (usually Sterns) will get one. Otherwise I place mylar.

I've had this happen a few times now... Happened again today...

Anyone else ever get a "Free" Snikt shot?

During a multiball, you hit the Snikt target with a ball, but it doesn't go up the ramp, almost at the same time you make a regular Katana ramp shot = FREE SNIKT!!!

Of course, I've had legit Snikt shot's not awarded either.

Either the ball goes up the ramp and around the corner too slowly or apparently you hit something else during multiball in between the time you hit the Snikt target and make it up the ramp.

Start with a piece of paper, and cut out what you think is needed. Trim or redo as necessary. Once you have something that fits good, use the paper as a template to cut out a mylar piece. Easy peasy.

Rob

I got a new high score for a battle... Mystique = 304 Million!

i see, if possible i also set the eject power as low as possible.

Anyone know where to get the spinner decals?
or maybe I can try to re-use them?

Agreed. 100% of the time, when you get a new game (especially Stern) go in and turn that power way down. I think they have it so high for route games. As those coils get dirty if they get to weak it will have ball eject problems. In a home game that is kept clean that is not an issue.

Any game I own with that adjustment, I put it to the lowest possible setting.

I don't mind the half more second I need to wait.

I'm pretty sure I remember seeing extra Wolverine ones in the goodie bag. Not sure about Dazzler, but isn't that just the generic glittery decal that's been used on multiple machines?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-8422-SP

Shout out to Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com) for shipping these really cool mirrored acrylics for my DP Pro speakers. He was very helpful and honest. Yes, the acrylics were meant to be backlit but I wanted to keep it simpler (personal preference). Obviously, they look better in certain lighting, but I'm happy the way they look.

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Thanks. I had no idea. Original owner is sending the goodie bag soon

He took it out of the machine? weird.

I think because he operated it?
not sure why exactly

Has anyone else noticed their katana Cliffy shift position with play? Mine is a tad lower than where I originally installed it.

I went back in and loosened the guide to check it, and it's good and stuck in its current position. If I shove a ball against the blue nub I still have clearance, so I guess it should be okay? I'm thinking it may just be more noticeable because the "no artwork" area at the top of the Cliffy is much larger on my playfield than it is on older builds.

IMG_20200509_181545 (resized).jpg

Mine moved a good bit.

not sure i understand WHAT that is supposed to do?

It's for people who already have wear/chipping under that guide, if you raise the guide with washers before you get chipping then you don't need it. Mine for instance: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/78#post-5146331

This. Install washers before there is wear and no need for a Cliffy or anything else.

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I just installed one of these, and it looks the same as mine does. The adhesive under the Cliffy should be holding it in place as well.

Experienced my first real problem with my Premium. When you start a game, you can select which BAM! lane you are hoping for. When I change the lit lane with my left flipper, the lit lane moves towards the left. Works until I get to the ‘B’ lane, and it does not light...sometimes. It will sometimes have both the ‘B’ and ‘A’ lit at the same time. However, before I start a game, when it goes through it’s ‘attract’ mode, the lane lights work just fine. That alone tells me the ‘B’ lamp is okay, but there is something wrong when changing the lit lane with the flippers. Doesn’t sound like a loose wire to me either. I thought I’d ask the experts here before I raised up the playfield.

Thanks!

I noticed that you can short plunge to get chimichangas and Domino lit.

I had this exact problem on my pro. I turned off the pin, reseated all of the connections on node boards 8b 8c and 9 and it fixed the problem.