Have you had any balls fly off the slings and hit your spots?

So I went and put a lift kit on my katana guide. No damage underneath but I can see where it would happen eventually!

As a quick note, I followed vireland’s instructions and had little to no issues. But in addition, I added a washer to the 3rd contact point under the plastic/popbumper as it was going to be airborn, and now it has support throughout.

After I got everything back together, I realized I forgot to bend the exit section of the guide.

Can this be done with it installed? Is it worth it and makes a difference?

I've never had any fly balls from my slings period. I would think if you are having fly balls, you should increase the sensitivity of the sling switches so that they fire when a ball is just barely touching the slings so that they are not so deep in the sling when it goes off, but that's just a guess.

Well, yesterday I got lucky and grabbed a Deadpool pro in town with a brand new still in box playfield. The owner received it from Stern due to two small CC chips on playfield. One at the bottom left inlane sling post and the other hidden up top behind a ball guide. Only plastic cracked was the one at scoop. Other than that, minor ware in the shooter lane. Price $4700.00. I will fix the CC chips and leave the new playfield to sell with pin in the future. But it is a nice insurance policy.
How's a shaker in this pin?
Must have modds?
Also, did this machine come with a manual or do I have to download it?
Thanks

Found this back a page:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/121#post-5614854

Most people don't seem to care much for the shaker. Not compared to Iron Man or Jurassic Park.

Actually I love the shaker!

I also love the shaker. I have the pinball life one and it's well integrated into the rules.

Shaker's great. Definitely recommend the pinball life one.

That’s an interesting thought. I had dialed down the slings, but still occasionally get an air ball off the left sling clear into the plunger lane, and less often the right sling to the left drain. I went ahead and ordered the spots from Comet anyway.

My DPLE mods (purchased 10/2019)
(in no particular order)

1. Shaker motor (must have.)
2. Art blades
3. Pin Monk light brackets (must have.)
4. Chimichanga diecast truck (wasn't thrilled with, removed.)
5. Chimichanga flame
6. Textured katana handle
7. Polk SW-10 (must have for soundtrack)
8. 4" action figures (Juggernaut, Mister Sinister, Mystique, Colossus, Sabretooth)
9. 6" action figures: Three for top of back box (Cable, Domino, Sauron) and one for the top of the disco loop diverter (Deadpool in slippers.)
10. T-rex action figure
11. Plunger face plate
12. Shooter rod Deadpool head
13. Almost forgot: Cliffys. the shots come fast and furious on this one.

Thoughts about these mods: I normally wouldn't fill a game up with too many toys but this game begs for it! The playfield art is modeled after the over the counter action figures so they just slot right in, plus with the Premium, you're already starting off with two figures in scale (Wolverine, Dazzler.) If you're on a budget and just want a couple mods, I'd say get the shaker, the subwoofer and the light brackets.

In order to get Sauron, you have to go the Build-a-figure route (read: $$$) and essentially buy a bunch of 6" Marvel universe action figures you'll never use unless you re-gift them to your kids (check.) Each figure comes with one piece of Sauron so if you're a completist, you're in clover. However, one of these 6" figures -- Deadpool in repose -- actually fits perfectly on top of the disco loops diverter (left orbit) and because he's lying on his back, looking up at you, in kinda works. At least in the sense its not horribly out of scale.

This game rocks. The shots are immensely satisfying, the devil-may-care attitude shines through at every moment, the soundtrack is bad ass and you can just feel the love that went into making it. Enjoy it!

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Found the remote down the back pinball room. You can see it has a pretty wide range of functions, but not tied into the machine like my Spiderman ones were.
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Sorry about the blur.

Hey peeps, are the quests needed doe progression to wizard mode?
And
Once a quest or battle is started,
How can you tell what to hit?
I know hit the lighted items,
But sometimes there are different colors
And one of the battles involves the pop bumpers
And
Is there a light to finish the battle ?
So when we know to shoot the scoop to finish the battle?

I was playing my Deadpool Pro and one of the scoop awards was to light Special (the colossus shot). I was in the t-rex mode and hit the shot to collect the Special. The display froze for about 10 seconds and the game did a reboot. Anyone else have this happen?

What light brackets?
For what and where?
Thanks

He's talking about these:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/by-game/2703-deadpool-limited-edition

Both Quests must be finished to get to the Mini-Wizard Mode.
Megalodon - hit the red shot (it moves across the playfield)
T-Rex - hit a green shot then hit Lil Deadpool
Each quest requires four total hits before you then need to hit the scoop. The lights on the playfield will scroll up to the scoop quickly several times to let you know you are finished. Most of the other lights are off (unless you are in another mode like Katanarama).
Battles:
Sabretooth - hit Wolverine, Dazzler or Domino shots. Upper lanes and Pop Bumpers do a nice chunk of damage.
Mystique - hit Wolverine followed by both ramps. Rinse and repeat.
Juggernaut - hit DEAD and POOL targets to light damage shots. Damage shots are ramps, orbits and spinner. Rinse and repeat.
Battles have all inserts pulsing by the scoop and the heartbeat sound when you are ready for the final shot.

http://tiltforums.com/t/deadpool-rulesheet/4311
Check this out for the basics. Some info may not be up to date due to code revision.

More than 4 shots for Megalodon. How many? No one knows.

Thanks !!!

Finally finding some time to work on my own games. Powdercoated the coin door, shooter and speaker panel to match the LE finish. Sorry they aren’t the greatest glamor shots. Feel free to contact me if you are interested

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Check out my custom airbrushed apron and legs. Hard to get a good picture of the apron...

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Your stock scoop protector split exactly like mine. I almost ordered a new one from Pinball life - Stern #535-1417-02, but it is the same one. I just sent Cliffy an email for the modified Ghost Busters protector instead.
Thanks

So I just realized that my Wolverine flasher is not working (well, it does, but it is VERY dim). I changed out the LED with the same results and am wondering if this is a transistor (I hope) I can swap out?

Node board for that is 9b, according to the manual. I'd try reseating all the connectors on that node board first, but then you can take the board off and see if the transistors are through hole. Although if you're getting dim light, that doesn't scream transistor to me like no light would.

Interesting, my Megalodon quest takes 7 red shots to light the scoop. I bought NIB and haven't changed any settings. My T-Rex does take four.

As for battles...if you want to take a serious shortcut just get the Wolverine team-up before every battle. With that, you can bypass all other shots and hit the Wolverine shot only (level one battles). Three or four Wolverine shots and everybody is dead...forget all that dangerous back and forth with the drops and ramp shots. You don't really need it for Sabretooth, but one shot over and over is a lot easier than spreading them out.

Megaladon took more than 4 on the Deadpool Premium I spent extensive time with. Don't remember how many, but it was definitely more than 4.

I recently picked up the Comet lighting upgrade kit. It came with 38 lamps for the GI. Are there really that many?

I just did the bottom of the playfield, slings etc when i did mine. I put the spotlights, trough lights and lighted flipper buttons in at the same time.

Got a rubber kit coming too, 13 months old and the sling rubbers are about to break.

Yep. Set aside a couple hours.

One of my sling rubbers broke in like 6 months from new and the other was fine.

I had a spare white sling rubber laying around and used that immediately then swapped both out after another couple months.

It’s terrible they use the cheapest stuff they can. Post sleeves same issue. I replaced all of them because most were almost worn to the metal in less then a year.

Wait are posts a target and are they worth points?

That's gold. Ordered a full kit this morning because...same....

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What is considered a decent score on the pro? I just got 680 million on my 3rd day. I don't even know what the hell I'm doing yet. But what a fun shooting, great time this game is!!!

Sounds decent!

I've had mine for 12 months and i'm somewhere around that. I have seen plenty of scores posted in the billions here though by much better players than me.

OK, I was worried it was scoring wrong! LOL!
I just went through the switch test and everything is registering great. Even the SNIKT Target. It registers when ball rolls down from half way up ramp. Is that about right?

I love how you can adjust back box brightness level for attract and game play and diagnostic modes! It was cranked to 100% in attract and game modes when it got it home! The reflection off playfield glass was ridiculous! I set it to 25% in attract mode and 6% in game mode. What a relief! I thought I was going to have to buy a Voodoo glass!

Not bad for your third day! I actually got a little worse for a little bit once I fully understood the rules and had a harder time "trying" to do what I wanted like stacking all the time.

I've broken 2 Billion a couple times and 1 Billion probably a couple+ dozen times in the almost 8 months I've had my Pro. I still haven't gotten to the final Mister Sinister battle yet though, but have been to Clone and Megakrakolodonus Rex multiple times...

Deadpool is definitely up there with games I've gotten good at, but it will still kick my ass regularly. Not uncommon for me to have a Billion game, a 300 million game, and then a couple in a row under 20 million... 1.03 code, basically same setup as from the factory, 3 balls.

Love this game!

FYI, and I don't want to anger anyone here. But I have to say that as an owner of Jersey Jack, Stern Sam, Spooky and previously Stern White Star and Williams pinball machines, and this being my first Stern Spike pin, I am shocked at the cost cutting cheapness of the construction! It is absurd that the scoop protector is splitting on both sides on a game this new and not to mention the chipping CC as you all know. I wish I could show you guys the differences in person. It is shocking! Just thought you guys should know if you don't already. I still love this game! Stern does know how to make a fun game!

Why limit yourself to only one? With Stern, you can have BOTH issues in your machine!

Am I supposed to be going over my machines with a flashlight and a magnifying glass? I have four newer Sterns and a CGC, and when I'm standing at the flippers they look gorgeous! They even look good when I'm cleaning and waxing them.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but it'd be the first time.

I have both issues..

My JJ is built like a tank! You have all you can do to lift the playfield. The pin is 360 pounds! But it is also a wide body. Granted it is a much more expensive pin though. Also, No CC issued on my Hobbit at all.

I meant more to compare the three Sterns I have owned. Between the White Star, Sam and Spike 2, The later is much flimsier in construction over all. I'm shopping out the Deadpool now. This is why I got a close up look at things in the last few days. I ordered a whole bunch of upgrades (mods) for it (including your harmonious Zen inserts Vireland).
And I will install the new playfield before I sell it. It won't be my first time doing this. It should be fairly easy on this pin.

I have the comet light kit and am try to install the spot lights but the hole is too small to fit on the post they sent me. Am I doing something wrong?

I had the same issue and thought I was going crazy. Contact Comet, they had a batch of spotlights with the wrong size bracket. They got replacements to me very fast.

Bummer. Thanks for the heads up. I sent them a message.

OK, speaking of PF's. Prem/LE owners. Is your playfield beat to hell under the right orbit ramp? I've only had my game for 3 months and 268 plays on it I can't believe they didn't put mylar there...

I also have this bump in my PF that looks like a screw was to long but nothing under the PF shows a screw was ever there. It's already worn past the clear and art and is now showing as white. yes, I know, first world problems having to put an arrow on a PF defect to call it out. Honestly, wouldn't bug me enough to focus on if it wasn't for the ramp damage too.

I really love DP and I'm not new to ownership and am also not the type of person that normally lets minor wear bother me but those two things has me real concerned on what my PF will look like in a couple years. That combined with the scoop protector already having to be replaced and my speakers only working 50% of the time, correctly. I really regret the $7.2K I spent on this game. I've had a JP2 on order since Jan1 and I'm about one more issue on this game from canceling my order.
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I owned DILE and the last thing I'd call it is 'built like a tank'. They use high quality playfield wood, and that's literally all that impresses. Every other part is the cheapest lowest-quality foreign-made stuff they could possible get their hands on. From the phone to the metal flaps, very low quality. Even the wire forms were manufactured incorrectly. JJP reminds me of Beats By Dre headphones - the price is high-end, everyone thinks they are high-end (and Beats adding useless weight to make them feel as such speaks volumes) but they are pretty average and a poor value.

Don't get me wrong, Stern isn't putting the pinnacle of quality parts in their machines, but they are also charging far less as well.

I understand that in the olden days Dialed In only had an LE and CE, but with the SE JJP does now that is roughly equivalent to a Prem, that's not true anymore. JJP is less expensive than Stern.

JJP SE $7500 (retail)
Stern Prem $7699 (retail)

$199 MORE is not "far less"

I haven't owned any JJP's yet, but have owned Williams, Bally, WPC, Data East, Gottlieb/Premier, Sega and now Stern Spike 2 with my Deadpool Pro.

I've put over 2000 games on it since Sept 2019 and sure it has dimpling and I've had a few minor issues (flipper coil stops, scoop protector), but it has been as reliable as any of my other games I've owned.

I just ordered that kit as well.

Really glad to hear that.

Maybe things cheapened up after Hobbit. The BOM was high on that one.