I have a NIB Deadpool Pro set up and I wanted to make the flipper buttons less resistant because I dont like to push so hard, so I bent the switches a little bit.
Now it feels like the flippers lost some power, but im not sure. Those button switches shouldnt affect flipper strength or speed right?
Im not talking about the EOS or flipper mechanics itself, just the button switches.

I did the same to my JP Premium, and it wasnt a problem there. I also have more controlls with the flippers on the JP micro flips etc. feels way better on the JP.

So i wonder what i did wrong, or if its just a placebo. Should JP and DP feel the same regarding flippers?

No worries, this won't affect flipper power.

Havent kept up on the thread in awhile, started heavily playing the game again, and have a rule question. What triggers megakrakaladonus rex? I beat both quests, only mystique on the battles. I lit the chimmys again, hit a few, and then they disappeared but quest was not lit. I hit the scoop on accident, cancelled a battle, all chimmys were gone and battle was not lit. I assume cancelling the battle made me have to spell dead again to light it, but did it cancel my chimmy progress too? Or do i have to beat the 3 battles and sauren for megakraken?

All battles gives you sauron the first time.

All battles + all quests gives you megakrakolodonus rex.

Thank you. Ive played and beat him before, but that was quite awhile ago, now i gotta do it again!

Beating both quests only doesn't give anything?

I don't think so. You have to have Sauron also, which means finishing the first three battles.

This goes for PRO also. Both my DP PRO and IMDN PRO does it from time to time as do many other Spike games.

I have an early run pro and have it connected to a polk sub. Haven't had any issues with sound at all yet.

Mine is a premium and no upgraded speakers.

Yes, it does seem like you like you loose sound partially like a speaker dropped out.

I’ve had my DP since it was released October 2018 and although it doesn’t happen that often or with any consistency it does happen and it annoys the shit out of me. If I had to guess how many times it’s happened I would say probably between 10/20 times.

The only good news, for me at least, is that it’s very brief and goes away quickly. I’ve never had it last a real long time so I guess that’s good?

Either way, it sucks and i’d like to get it figured out.

I also have a sub on my pro that is shared with two other machines and have never had a sound problem i've noticed.

Anyone that owns a DP machine want pin grafixx to make us some power blades? He said we need 5 people to ask for them and he will make them.

Interested in power blades. All would depend on the graphics. None that are available right now excite me except the premium which can't be purchased

parsonsaj - is this drop-out happening at a specific volume level (i.e. happens when loud only but not at low volume intensity)? In your case is it just the cabinet and / or subwoofer that's cutting out? Or, is the backbox involved? Thanks

It's hard to tell... I typically only have the volume on Deadpool at 8 or 9, so that is relatively low. The problem happened a few times before I ever had your backbox speakers in place, so I don't think it's the new amp or speakers at fault. The problem has never persisted enough for me to consider it a big deal (might be that way for 10 or 15 minutes before fixing itself). It just sounds like the sound becomes more "thin" for lack of a better word...

85vett - are you running the stock 4" paper cone backbox speakers on the title(s) that are dropping out? Does it happen frequently enough that you can reproduce the problem easily? Do you play your titles loud? Thanks

Without drawing any conclusions and since you have changed everything outside of the CPU node (that is, the speakers and amps), it feels like a hardware or fimrware issue at the pin.

The next time it happens you might listen up close to confirm that there is still audio coming from both backbox speakers and the cabinet driver, acknowledging that the sound will be "thin".

I'd love to know what you find out.

Thanks

I play my game between 12 and 16. Not sure if that is considered loud though. On my game it happens pretty often but it's not something I can reproduce at will. At first I thought it was when I nudged the game with any real force but then I played several games without nudging at all and it still would go in and out. I also thought maybe the shaker motor so I turned it off with no change. Next time it happens I'll see if I can figure out which speaker cuts out but I'm pretty sure they are all still on but the volume coming out of them is different.

On my IM Prem, it also happens but is very rare. On my DP Prem it happens all the time. Also, on my IM Prem I have a Polk sub hooked up with no problems. If I hook of a sub to my DP Prem it makes a constant popping noise.

I'd love to figure this out but it's because of this on why I haven't tried to upgrade my speakers. I'm concerned that it will mess up the board (big $$$) or those would cut out all the time too thus basically throwing away $200+.

I would not consider 12 to 16 loud. It's also a question of has it ever been been played excessively loud (kids, previous owner, etc)...

If you identify a single speaker cutting out in the backbox try swapping speaker wire pairs (swap left and right pairs) using the quick connects (DP / Spike-2) and see if the cut-out stays with the speaker. I suggest this because I'm wondering if (hoping) you simply have a blown speaker; a blown speaker can act intermittent as you describe. Also, are you still running the stock paper-cone 4" backbox speakers?

You might be tempted to run the pin with one of the speakers disconnected during debug but I strongly recommend against doing this because it taxes the amplifier and can lead to damage if left unchecked. So can a bad speaker. It is not highly likely but it is a possibility and I am glad you pointed out that you are concerned about it.

For obvious reasons I'd like to better understand this and the multiple other issues that are being highlighted. Even if this proves nothing I think we'll learn something.

Thanks!

I'd never buy power blades again. I went through 3 unit on my Metallica. All 3 were defective and I was only.given a partial refund. I am 100% still backing pingraffix but never power blades. Check the metallica thread. Many defective power blades but that story seems to get consistently swept under the rug. End rant. Good luck

I have some issues, maybey you can help me.

- From time to time the machine does not start, what can i do?
- I have had one game restart during gameplay.
- I get alot of scoop rejects, the ball goes in and somehow it jumps out again. My PF is leveled and at 6.8° pitch.
- I get alot of bricks at the left orbit spinner, up- and downwards
- The snikt target moves over time. would such a thing help?
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3
- When lil deadpool releases the ball in deadpool frenzy mode, i get center drains most of the time. there are situations ball save will not be active so I'm forced to slide- or slapsave

Here some things i tweaked successfully:
I fixed the anoying left orbit feed into the slingshot, by loosening up the two screws, pushing out the metal guide as far as possible and tightening those screws again. A tiny bit can make all the difference.
I bent the middle metal piece of the tiny horse shoe shot to the right, that way I was able to reduce bricking and rejecting balls there.
I have no problems with the katana ramp, its perfect.
I went back from silicone rubbers to original, slingshot airballs- no thanks, same with my JP Prem.
I put washers or mylar nearly under every metal guide or post, to avoid clear coat damage like on my JP Prem.

Like clockwork. Halfway through game 2 it happened again. Since its fresh on my ears I can better describe. It almost sounds hollow all of a sudden. All 3 speakers had sound going through them. Started in ball 2 and lasted rest of the game. While typing this it went back to normal on its own about 5 mins into the next game (have it sitting started with ball in shooter lane).

Stock speakers and highest the game has ever seen is 20.

It makes my ears hurt the same as of I have to much treble coming out of my car speakers but it doesn't sound high pitched.

Just happened again.

I should say though. Most people think I'm full of crap but my ears are real sensitive to high sounds. For example those dog bark trainers, I can faintly hear them and it makes it feel like pressure on my head.

I have had this on my JP Prem once, after some games. The callouts sounded like they where doubled with some miliseconds in between.

Try playing the game with the speaker back box grill open and see if it happens.

I had a sound issue on my SW and found that the stock speakers were mounted too close to the grilles so it didn’t have room for the speaker to vibrate which caused muffled. I fixed by adding a little space between the speakers and grille.

I'll give that a try. Just not sure how it would solve for the problem being intermittent. If it was always like that I could see it but I'm up to try anything. Shoot, while I'm in there I can just put some spacers on anyways. I've got a ton laying around...

You're definitely not full of vrap. Mine does this too as well as others as noted here. Hope someone can figure it out it's annoying.

My Star Wars speakers didn’t always do it too. There was just a sliver of space between the speakers and grill so i think certain frequencies wouldn’t allow the speakers to go their full travel.

Stern started adding plastic washers (I don't think they were always there) between the stock 4" speakers and the speaker plates. They have been there for awhile, but I don't really think they were there in the early SPIKE 2 games. The newer manuals still don't show them in the exploded speaker mounting diagram.

For anyone with a damaged scoop protector I'd highly recommend you reach out to Cliffy. He sent me a modified Ghostbusters scoop protector, and it works flawlessly. I have no more scoop rejects and it offers a lot more protection in general than the one Stern ships with. It looks like his bent with a radius instead of a straight bend like the stock protector, which is why I think the stock protector is splitting for so many people.

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Thanks, I'll have to check that out... I have other Cliffy's already.

I recently noticed my scoop protector is splitting. I'm currently around 1800 games.

Me too. I think I asked back when I got my machine but it wasn't a thing then.

I took mine all apart this morning (scoop assembly had gotten pretty loose) and used some mylar to secure the split protector on both sides. Used it like tape for the time being until I can get a Cliffy.

Mine was splitting also, someone watching my stream said I should check the hole protector and sure enough it had cracked. I just ordered a replacement, I mean a real one, from Cliffy.

Hey DP owners. I have a small problem, hope y'all can help with. Sometimes when I hit the scoop it will not return the ball and I have to wait for the lost ball to kick in to return the ball. It doesn't happen all the time but man it is annoying. Any help is appreciated.

You just need to adjust the switch in the scoop so it registers fully every time. This is a very common problem with Deadpool and KISS, especially. Sometimes Ghostbusters.

Thanks. It's my 1st machine. Any good YouTube videos on it? Or is it really easy to do?

Really easy. Just bend the arm up a little more so the ball will make it register each time. Also, you might want to lift the playfield and make sure both screws are still holding the switch body on tightly. The screws can loosen or fall out over time from vibration, and that will make it not register, too.

Thanks I'll try that out.

Thanks it seems to work now! Plus just got a personal high score!

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That's great. So was it the switch body loose under the PF, or just the switch arm needing to be bent more?

I just clean it up. I think there was some crap in it.

Can someone point me to a shot map available online?

So yesterday was another Pandemic Sunday. I installed Cliffy's protectors at my 3-bank and at the katana entrance. I could already see damage starting to form at the katana entrance after a very low number of plays.

While I was in there I confirmed that Stern appears to be using the anti-sway style target brackets on newer builds. In other words, don't buy a replacement bracket for your Snikt target before taking delivery of your machine like I did. Here's a pic of my factory Colossus target, because apparently I was confused when taking the photo:

IMG_20200412_124207 (resized).jpg

Interesting. What is your build date? Mine is Nov. 19 and had a standard bracket.

Mine's Feb 12, 2020.

Very cool. Glad to see that they are doing this.

I was just thinking about adding some spotlights to my deadpool and came across this post. So do you remember what size post you used? Also Im assuming the post would have to be a bigger size on the bottom and smaller on the top for the smaller screw size? Thats what im thinking needed to be done from my research.

Also has anyone found where you can buy those little nano spotlights? I like those. My munsters has a few also.