(Topic ID: 222766)

Deadpool owners club. Free chimichangas for all.


By Ericc123

1 year ago



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#5851 55 days ago

I have a NIB Deadpool Pro set up and I wanted to make the flipper buttons less resistant because I dont like to push so hard, so I bent the switches a little bit.
Now it feels like the flippers lost some power, but im not sure. Those button switches shouldnt affect flipper strength or speed right?
Im not talking about the EOS or flipper mechanics itself, just the button switches.

I did the same to my JP Premium, and it wasnt a problem there. I also have more controlls with the flippers on the JP micro flips etc. feels way better on the JP.

So i wonder what i did wrong, or if its just a placebo. Should JP and DP feel the same regarding flippers?

#5852 55 days ago
Quoted from Prodoshi:

I have a NIB Deadpool Pro set up and I wanted to make the flipper buttons less resistant because I dont like to push so hard, so I bent the switches a little bit.
Now it feels like the flippers lost some power, but im not sure. Those button switches shouldnt affect flipper strength or speed right?
Im not talking about the EOS or flipper mechanics itself, just the button switches.
I did the same to my JP Premium, and it wasnt a problem there. I also have more controlls with the flippers on the JP micro flips etc. feels way better on the JP.
So i wonder what i did wrong, or if its just a placebo. Should JP and DP feel the same regarding flippers?

No worries, this won't affect flipper power.

#5853 55 days ago

Havent kept up on the thread in awhile, started heavily playing the game again, and have a rule question. What triggers megakrakaladonus rex? I beat both quests, only mystique on the battles. I lit the chimmys again, hit a few, and then they disappeared but quest was not lit. I hit the scoop on accident, cancelled a battle, all chimmys were gone and battle was not lit. I assume cancelling the battle made me have to spell dead again to light it, but did it cancel my chimmy progress too? Or do i have to beat the 3 battles and sauren for megakraken?

#5854 55 days ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

Havent kept up on the thread in awhile, started heavily playing the game again, and have a rule question. What triggers megakrakaladonus rex? I beat both quests, only mystique on the battles. I lit the chimmys again, hit a few, and then they disappeared but quest was not lit. I hit the scoop on accident, cancelled a battle, all chimmys were gone and battle was not lit. I assume cancelling the battle made me have to spell dead again to light it, but did it cancel my chimmy progress too? Or do i have to beat the 3 battles and sauren for megakraken?

All battles gives you sauron the first time.

All battles + all quests gives you megakrakolodonus rex.

#5855 55 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

All battles gives you sauron the first time.
All battles + all quests gives you megakrakolodonus rex.

Thank you. Ive played and beat him before, but that was quite awhile ago, now i gotta do it again!

#5856 55 days ago

Beating both quests only doesn't give anything?

#5857 55 days ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Beating both quests only doesn't give anything?

I don't think so. You have to have Sauron also, which means finishing the first three battles.

#5858 55 days ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

I have a theory. That this issue might be related to LEs and games with upgraded speakers. So this might be some sort of security feature to protect the amp from overheating. Since the upgrades speakers draw more current. That could be the issue. But for that we need to know if Pro owners have this issues or not.

This goes for PRO also. Both my DP PRO and IMDN PRO does it from time to time as do many other Spike games.

#5859 55 days ago
Quoted from Bundy:

This goes for PRO also. Both my DP PRO and IMDN PRO does it from time to time as do many other Spike games.

I have an early run pro and have it connected to a polk sub. Haven't had any issues with sound at all yet.

#5860 54 days ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

I have had this issue happening on a IM LE as well.

Do you have LE, or a Pro Prem with upgraded speakers?

I have a theory. That this issue might be related to LEs and games with upgraded speakers. So this might be some sort of security feature to protect the amp from overheating. Since the upgrades speakers draw more current. That could be the issue. But for that we need to know if Pro owners have this issues or not.

Mine is a premium and no upgraded speakers.

#5861 54 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

It's really like one speaker just turns off. At least on mine that is what is sounds like. Example, go in your car and turn the sound all the way to the left or right. That's basically the effect I get.

Yes, it does seem like you like you loose sound partially like a speaker dropped out.

I’ve had my DP since it was released October 2018 and although it doesn’t happen that often or with any consistency it does happen and it annoys the shit out of me. If I had to guess how many times it’s happened I would say probably between 10/20 times.

The only good news, for me at least, is that it’s very brief and goes away quickly. I’ve never had it last a real long time so I guess that’s good?

Either way, it sucks and i’d like to get it figured out.

#5862 54 days ago

I also have a sub on my pro that is shared with two other machines and have never had a sound problem i've noticed.

#5863 54 days ago

Anyone that owns a DP machine want pin grafixx to make us some power blades? He said we need 5 people to ask for them and he will make them.

#5864 54 days ago

Interested in power blades. All would depend on the graphics. None that are available right now excite me except the premium which can't be purchased

#5865 54 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

My Deadpool and Iron Maiden are both Pros. They were doing this before I upgraded the speakers, but both of them now have PinWoofer backbox kits (with amps) and have each done it at least once since I upgraded the speakers.

parsonsaj - is this drop-out happening at a specific volume level (i.e. happens when loud only but not at low volume intensity)? In your case is it just the cabinet and / or subwoofer that's cutting out? Or, is the backbox involved? Thanks

#5866 54 days ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

parsonsaj - is this drop-out happening at a specific volume level (i.e. happens when loud only but not at low volume intensity)? In your case is it just the cabinet and / or subwoofer that's cutting out? Or, is the backbox involved? Thanks

It's hard to tell... I typically only have the volume on Deadpool at 8 or 9, so that is relatively low. The problem happened a few times before I ever had your backbox speakers in place, so I don't think it's the new amp or speakers at fault. The problem has never persisted enough for me to consider it a big deal (might be that way for 10 or 15 minutes before fixing itself). It just sounds like the sound becomes more "thin" for lack of a better word...

#5867 54 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Example, go in your car and turn the sound all the way to the left or right. That's basically the effect I get.

85vett - are you running the stock 4" paper cone backbox speakers on the title(s) that are dropping out? Does it happen frequently enough that you can reproduce the problem easily? Do you play your titles loud? Thanks

#5868 54 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

It's hard to tell... I typically only have the volume on Deadpool at 8 or 9, so that is relatively low. The problem happened a few times before I ever had your backbox speakers in place, so I don't think it's the new amp or speakers at fault. The problem has never persisted enough for me to consider it a big deal (might be that way for 10 or 15 minutes before fixing itself). It just sounds like the sound becomes more "thin" for lack of a better word...

Without drawing any conclusions and since you have changed everything outside of the CPU node (that is, the speakers and amps), it feels like a hardware or fimrware issue at the pin.

The next time it happens you might listen up close to confirm that there is still audio coming from both backbox speakers and the cabinet driver, acknowledging that the sound will be "thin".

I'd love to know what you find out.

Thanks

#5869 53 days ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

85vett - are you running the stock 4" paper cone backbox speakers on the title(s) that are dropping out? Does it happen frequently enough that you can reproduce the problem easily? Do you play your titles loud? Thanks

I play my game between 12 and 16. Not sure if that is considered loud though. On my game it happens pretty often but it's not something I can reproduce at will. At first I thought it was when I nudged the game with any real force but then I played several games without nudging at all and it still would go in and out. I also thought maybe the shaker motor so I turned it off with no change. Next time it happens I'll see if I can figure out which speaker cuts out but I'm pretty sure they are all still on but the volume coming out of them is different.

On my IM Prem, it also happens but is very rare. On my DP Prem it happens all the time. Also, on my IM Prem I have a Polk sub hooked up with no problems. If I hook of a sub to my DP Prem it makes a constant popping noise.

I'd love to figure this out but it's because of this on why I haven't tried to upgrade my speakers. I'm concerned that it will mess up the board (big $$$) or those would cut out all the time too thus basically throwing away $200+.

#5870 53 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I play my game between 12 and 16. Not sure if that is considered loud though. On my game it happens pretty often but it's not something I can reproduce at will. At first I thought it was when I nudged the game with any real force but then I played several games without nudging at all and it still would go in and out. I also thought maybe the shaker motor so I turned it off with no change. Next time it happens I'll see if I can figure out which speaker cuts out but I'm pretty sure they are all still on but the volume coming out of them is different.
On my IM Prem, it also happens but is very rare. On my DP Prem it happens all the time. Also, on my IM Prem I have a Polk sub hooked up with no problems. If I hook of a sub to my DP Prem it makes a constant popping noise.
I'd love to figure this out but it's because of this on why I haven't tried to upgrade my speakers. I'm concerned that it will mess up the board (big $$$) or those would cut out all the time too thus basically throwing away $200+.

I would not consider 12 to 16 loud. It's also a question of has it ever been been played excessively loud (kids, previous owner, etc)...

If you identify a single speaker cutting out in the backbox try swapping speaker wire pairs (swap left and right pairs) using the quick connects (DP / Spike-2) and see if the cut-out stays with the speaker. I suggest this because I'm wondering if (hoping) you simply have a blown speaker; a blown speaker can act intermittent as you describe. Also, are you still running the stock paper-cone 4" backbox speakers?

You might be tempted to run the pin with one of the speakers disconnected during debug but I strongly recommend against doing this because it taxes the amplifier and can lead to damage if left unchecked. So can a bad speaker. It is not highly likely but it is a possibility and I am glad you pointed out that you are concerned about it.

For obvious reasons I'd like to better understand this and the multiple other issues that are being highlighted. Even if this proves nothing I think we'll learn something.

Thanks!

#5871 53 days ago
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:

Anyone that owns a DP machine want pin grafixx to make us some power blades? He said we need 5 people to ask for them and he will make them.

I'd never buy power blades again. I went through 3 unit on my Metallica. All 3 were defective and I was only.given a partial refund. I am 100% still backing pingraffix but never power blades. Check the metallica thread. Many defective power blades but that story seems to get consistently swept under the rug. End rant. Good luck

#5872 53 days ago

I have some issues, maybey you can help me.

- From time to time the machine does not start, what can i do?
- I have had one game restart during gameplay.
- I get alot of scoop rejects, the ball goes in and somehow it jumps out again. My PF is leveled and at 6.8° pitch.
- I get alot of bricks at the left orbit spinner, up- and downwards
- The snikt target moves over time. would such a thing help?
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3
- When lil deadpool releases the ball in deadpool frenzy mode, i get center drains most of the time. there are situations ball save will not be active so I'm forced to slide- or slapsave

Here some things i tweaked successfully:
I fixed the anoying left orbit feed into the slingshot, by loosening up the two screws, pushing out the metal guide as far as possible and tightening those screws again. A tiny bit can make all the difference.
I bent the middle metal piece of the tiny horse shoe shot to the right, that way I was able to reduce bricking and rejecting balls there.
I have no problems with the katana ramp, its perfect.
I went back from silicone rubbers to original, slingshot airballs- no thanks, same with my JP Prem.
I put washers or mylar nearly under every metal guide or post, to avoid clear coat damage like on my JP Prem.

#5873 53 days ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

I would not consider 12 to 16 loud. It's also a question of has it ever been been played excessively loud (kids, previous owner, etc)...
If you identify a single speaker cutting out in the backbox try swapping speaker wire pairs (swap left and right pairs) using the quick connects (DP / Spike-2) and see if the cut-out stays with the speaker. I suggest this because I'm wondering if (hoping) you simply have a blown speaker; a blown speaker can act intermittent as you describe. Also, are you still running the stock paper-cone 4" backbox speakers?
You might be tempted to run the pin with one of the speakers disconnected during debug but I strongly recommend against doing this because it taxes the amplifier and can lead to damage if left unchecked. So can a bad speaker. It is not highly likely but it is a possibility and I am glad you pointed out that you are concerned about it.
For obvious reasons I'd like to better understand this and the multiple other issues that are being highlighted. Even if this proves nothing I think we'll learn something.
Thanks!

Like clockwork. Halfway through game 2 it happened again. Since its fresh on my ears I can better describe. It almost sounds hollow all of a sudden. All 3 speakers had sound going through them. Started in ball 2 and lasted rest of the game. While typing this it went back to normal on its own about 5 mins into the next game (have it sitting started with ball in shooter lane).

Stock speakers and highest the game has ever seen is 20.

It makes my ears hurt the same as of I have to much treble coming out of my car speakers but it doesn't sound high pitched.

#5874 53 days ago

Just happened again.

I should say though. Most people think I'm full of crap but my ears are real sensitive to high sounds. For example those dog bark trainers, I can faintly hear them and it makes it feel like pressure on my head.

#5875 53 days ago

I have had this on my JP Prem once, after some games. The callouts sounded like they where doubled with some miliseconds in between.

#5876 53 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Just happened again.
I should say though. Most people think I'm full of crap but my ears are real sensitive to high sounds. For example those dog bark trainers, I can faintly hear them and it makes it feel like pressure on my head.

Try playing the game with the speaker back box grill open and see if it happens.

I had a sound issue on my SW and found that the stock speakers were mounted too close to the grilles so it didn’t have room for the speaker to vibrate which caused muffled. I fixed by adding a little space between the speakers and grille.

#5877 53 days ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Try playing the game with the speaker back box grill open and see if it happens.
I had a sound issue on my SW and found that the stock speakers were mounted too close to the grilles so it didn’t have room for the speaker to vibrate which caused muffled. I fixed by adding a little space between the speakers and grille.

I'll give that a try. Just not sure how it would solve for the problem being intermittent. If it was always like that I could see it but I'm up to try anything. Shoot, while I'm in there I can just put some spacers on anyways. I've got a ton laying around...

#5878 52 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

Just happened again.
I should say though. Most people think I'm full of crap but my ears are real sensitive to high sounds. For example those dog bark trainers, I can faintly hear them and it makes it feel like pressure on my head.

You're definitely not full of vrap. Mine does this too as well as others as noted here. Hope someone can figure it out it's annoying.

#5879 52 days ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'll give that a try. Just not sure how it would solve for the problem being intermittent. If it was always like that I could see it but I'm up to try anything. Shoot, while I'm in there I can just put some spacers on anyways. I've got a ton laying around...

My Star Wars speakers didn’t always do it too. There was just a sliver of space between the speakers and grill so i think certain frequencies wouldn’t allow the speakers to go their full travel.

#5880 52 days ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

My Star Wars speakers didn’t always do it too. There was just a sliver of space between the speakers and grill so i think certain frequencies wouldn’t allow the speakers to go their full travel.

Stern started adding plastic washers (I don't think they were always there) between the stock 4" speakers and the speaker plates. They have been there for awhile, but I don't really think they were there in the early SPIKE 2 games. The newer manuals still don't show them in the exploded speaker mounting diagram.

#5881 51 days ago

For anyone with a damaged scoop protector I'd highly recommend you reach out to Cliffy. He sent me a modified Ghostbusters scoop protector, and it works flawlessly. I have no more scoop rejects and it offers a lot more protection in general than the one Stern ships with. It looks like his bent with a radius instead of a straight bend like the stock protector, which is why I think the stock protector is splitting for so many people.

20200411_153357 (resized).jpg20200411_153628 (resized).jpg20200411_154456 (resized).jpg
#5882 51 days ago
Quoted from atrainn:

For anyone with a damaged scoop protector I'd highly recommend you reach out to Cliffy. He sent me a modified Ghostbusters scoop protector, and it works flawlessly. I have no more scoop rejects and it offers a lot more protection in general than the one Stern ships with. It looks like his bent with a radius instead of a straight bend like the stock protector, which is why I think the stock protector is splitting for so many people.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks, I'll have to check that out... I have other Cliffy's already.

I recently noticed my scoop protector is splitting. I'm currently around 1800 games.

#5883 51 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Thanks, I'll have to check that out... I have other Cliffy's already.
I recently noticed my scoop protector is splitting. I'm currently around 1800 games.

Me too. I think I asked back when I got my machine but it wasn't a thing then.

#5884 50 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Thanks, I'll have to check that out... I have other Cliffy's already.
I recently noticed my scoop protector is splitting. I'm currently around 1800 games.

I took mine all apart this morning (scoop assembly had gotten pretty loose) and used some mylar to secure the split protector on both sides. Used it like tape for the time being until I can get a Cliffy.

#5885 50 days ago
Quoted from atrainn:

For anyone with a damaged scoop protector I'd highly recommend you reach out to Cliffy. He sent me a modified Ghostbusters scoop protector, and it works flawlessly. I have no more scoop rejects and it offers a lot more protection in general than the one Stern ships with. It looks like his bent with a radius instead of a straight bend like the stock protector, which is why I think the stock protector is splitting for so many people.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mine was splitting also, someone watching my stream said I should check the hole protector and sure enough it had cracked. I just ordered a replacement, I mean a real one, from Cliffy.

#5886 50 days ago

Hey DP owners. I have a small problem, hope y'all can help with. Sometimes when I hit the scoop it will not return the ball and I have to wait for the lost ball to kick in to return the ball. It doesn't happen all the time but man it is annoying. Any help is appreciated.

#5887 50 days ago
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:

Hey DP owners. I have a small problem, hope y'all can help with. Sometimes when I hit the scoop it will not return the ball and I have to wait for the lost ball to kick in to return the ball. It doesn't happen all the time but man it is annoying. Any help is appreciated.

You just need to adjust the switch in the scoop so it registers fully every time. This is a very common problem with Deadpool and KISS, especially. Sometimes Ghostbusters.

#5888 50 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You just need to adjust the switch in the scoop so it registers fully every time. This is a very common problem with Deadpool and KISS, especially. Sometimes Ghostbusters.

Thanks. It's my 1st machine. Any good YouTube videos on it? Or is it really easy to do?

#5889 50 days ago
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:

Thanks. It's my 1st machine. Any good YouTube videos on it? Or is it really easy to do?

Really easy. Just bend the arm up a little more so the ball will make it register each time. Also, you might want to lift the playfield and make sure both screws are still holding the switch body on tightly. The screws can loosen or fall out over time from vibration, and that will make it not register, too.

#5890 50 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Really easy. Just bend the arm up a little more so the ball will make it register each time. Also, you might want to lift the playfield and make sure both screws are still holding the switch body on tightly. The screws can loosen or fall out over time from vibration, and that will make it not register, too.

Thanks I'll try that out.

#5891 50 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Really easy. Just bend the arm up a little more so the ball will make it register each time. Also, you might want to lift the playfield and make sure both screws are still holding the switch body on tightly. The screws can loosen or fall out over time from vibration, and that will make it not register, too.

Thanks it seems to work now! Plus just got a personal high score!

20200412_195316 (resized).jpg
#5892 50 days ago
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:

Thanks it seems to work now! Plus just got a personal high score![quoted image]

That's great. So was it the switch body loose under the PF, or just the switch arm needing to be bent more?

#5893 50 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

That's great. So was it the switch body loose under the PF, or just the switch arm needing to be bent more?

I just clean it up. I think there was some crap in it.

#5894 50 days ago

Can someone point me to a shot map available online?

#5895 50 days ago

So yesterday was another Pandemic Sunday. I installed Cliffy's protectors at my 3-bank and at the katana entrance. I could already see damage starting to form at the katana entrance after a very low number of plays.

While I was in there I confirmed that Stern appears to be using the anti-sway style target brackets on newer builds. In other words, don't buy a replacement bracket for your Snikt target before taking delivery of your machine like I did. Here's a pic of my factory Colossus target, because apparently I was confused when taking the photo:

IMG_20200412_124207 (resized).jpg
#5896 50 days ago
Quoted from Jakegreenhaus:

Hey DP owners. I have a small problem, hope y'all can help with. Sometimes when I hit the scoop it will not return the ball and I have to wait for the lost ball to kick in to return the ball. It doesn't happen all the time but man it is annoying. Any help is appreciated.

I had to replace mine. it stop working

#5897 50 days ago
Quoted from EternitytoM83:

So yesterday was another Pandemic Sunday. I installed Cliffy's protectors at my 3-bank and at the katana entrance. I could already see damage starting to form at the katana entrance after a very low number of plays.
While I was in there I confirmed that Stern appears to be using the anti-sway style target brackets on newer builds. In other words, don't buy a replacement bracket for your Snikt target before taking delivery of your machine like I did. Here's a pic of my factory Colossus target, because apparently I was confused when taking the photo:[quoted image]

Interesting. What is your build date? Mine is Nov. 19 and had a standard bracket.

#5898 50 days ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Interesting. What is your build date? Mine is Nov. 19 and had a standard bracket.

Mine's Feb 12, 2020.

#5899 50 days ago
Quoted from EternitytoM83:

Mine's Feb 12, 2020.

Very cool. Glad to see that they are doing this.

#5900 49 days ago
Quoted from Melhadmj:

Got around to installing the Comet GI lighting upgrade this weekend. Only used 2 instead of 4 spotlights but can finally see the playfield now and no more red color wash. Well worth it imo! Attached the before and after...

I was just thinking about adding some spotlights to my deadpool and came across this post. So do you remember what size post you used? Also Im assuming the post would have to be a bigger size on the bottom and smaller on the top for the smaller screw size? Thats what im thinking needed to be done from my research.

Also has anyone found where you can buy those little nano spotlights? I like those. My munsters has a few also.

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