(Topic ID: 223353)

Deadpool Mod Thread

By Lermods

5 years ago


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  • 115 posts
  • 49 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MaxAsh
  • Topic is favorited by 53 Pinsiders

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There are 115 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 3 years ago

I made a video of all the mods I did to my deadpool premium

3 months later
#102 3 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Chimichanga truck for the Pro. Slides over the 2d plastic. [quoted image][quoted image]

Any chance you guys will revisit this mod for the Pro with the decent size run Stern is doing for them in March?

2 months later
#103 2 years ago
Quoted from N8man:

Little projection mod from a cardoor ghost light. Nice that there is already a hole in the top of the backbox
[quoted image]

Picked one of these little car door projectors up. It runs off (3) AAA batteries. There's a 5V AC power adapter in the head of my game, it was installed by the previous owner for LED speaker lighting strips. Can I just splice into the output of that and power this little projector off of it too?

#104 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Picked one of these little car door projectors up. It runs off (3) AAA batteries. There's a 5V AC power adapter in the head of my game, it was installed by the previous owner for LED speaker lighting strips. Can I just splice into the output of that and power this little projector off of it too?

Using an AC adapter in the service outlet is kind of sloppy IMO.

You can get 5v off the cabinet node board as long as your total amp draw is less than 2A. If CN15 on that board isn't being used in Deadpool, it has 5V available on pin 1. CN2 also has 5V, but I'm not sure if it's continuous or pulsed. Pinouts for all these connectors are in the deadpool manual for the cabinet node board.

#105 2 years ago

This is the first I’ve seen of this thread. I have quite a few mods that I make for Deadpool. Check them out!

And illpoet I just saw your video. Hadn’t thought of putting the metal ramp protector under the existing plastic, but looks sweet. Thanks for the comments!

#106 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

This is the first I’ve seen of this thread. I have quite a few mods that I make for Deadpool. Check them out!
And illpoet I just saw your video. Hadn’t thought of putting the metal ramp protector under the existing plastic, but looks sweet. Thanks for the comments!

You forgot the link.

#107 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

You forgot the link.

Click his market tag

#108 2 years ago
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:

Click his market tag

Thanks, didn't know there was such a thing.

#109 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Using an AC adapter in the service outlet is kind of sloppy IMO.
You can get 5v off the cabinet node board as long as your total amp draw is less than 2A. If CN15 on that board isn't being used in Deadpool, it has 5V available on pin 1. CN2 also has 5V, but I'm not sure if it's continuous or pulsed. Pinouts for all these connectors are in the deadpool manual for the cabinet node board.

The original owner (I'm the second) added the speaker light mod that uses a power brick, but is wired inside the power area behind the cover plate. I think using the service outlet would mean they would always be on, as long as the game is plugged in, wouldn't it?

I'll check CN15 and CN2, might be good places to snag what I need as well, thanks! I've seen several aftermarket power splitter boards. A lot of them seem to be 12V (I assume most modern mods run off 12V). Are there any reasonably priced ones that have 5V and 12V?

#110 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

The original owner (I'm the second) added the speaker light mod that uses a power brick, but is wired inside the power area behind the cover plate. I think using the service outlet would mean they would always be on, as long as the game is plugged in, wouldn't it?
I'll check CN15 and CN2, might be good places to snag what I need as well, thanks! I've seen several aftermarket power splitter boards. A lot of them seem to be 12V (I assume most modern mods run off 12V). Are there any reasonably priced ones that have 5V and 12V?

I don't know about any aftermarket ones, specifically, because I just get what I need off that coin door interface board.

#111 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Picked one of these little car door projectors up. It runs off (3) AAA batteries. There's a 5V AC power adapter in the head of my game, it was installed by the previous owner for LED speaker lighting strips. Can I just splice into the output of that and power this little projector off of it too?

Are the speaker lights ones that light up the entire rectangle grill area or just around the speakers (in a round shape)? It may not seem like much of a difference but I'm expecting it's 48 bulbs vs 84 bulbs. If it's one of my light kits...that power transformer is just rated high enough to safely power the 84 bulbs. So if you have the round light kits that only has 48 bulbs....that power supply should have some current (3.12 amps) to spare. I wouldn't splice into it though....I'd get a "barrel type power splitter" from amazon or someplace to split the +5vdc power from it.

As for different places to get the +5vdc from the games boards....the Cabinet Node CN15 or CN2 should work (CN2 seems easier), but you could also try the CN8 connection on the main CPU board if you would like. This has +5v and is where Deadpool LE got the power for it's speaker lights from (SEE ATTACHMENT). I'm not sure how many amps this connection can provide so I didn't chance it with my 48 and especially not with my 84 bulb light kits. I think staying with a standalone power supply drawing from an isolated power connection is the safer call with them. Having said that, the CN8 was powering 8 LEDS in Deadpool LE...I'm expecting it should power the door light without issue.

Keep in mind I have no idea how much current your car door light thing would need or how many amps any of these board connections can supply....so proceed at your own risk.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Using an AC adapter in the service outlet is kind of sloppy IMO.

Where he is describing (where my Speaker Light Kits power transformer plugs in) is not the service outlet. It is a normally unused plug that is behind the AC cover on North American games that is there for 110vac bill validator use if a person decides to install one. Unlike the service outlet, it is powered on and off with the games power switch.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Deadpool LE light connection (resized).jpegDeadpool LE light connection (resized).jpeg
#112 2 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

Where he is describing (where my Speaker Light Kits power transformer plugs in) is not the service outlet. It is a normally unused plug that is behind the AC cover on North American games that is there for 110vac bill validator use if a person decides to install one. Unlike the service outlet, it is powered on and off with the games power switch.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)
[quoted image]

Ah, I know exactly what you're talking about. I misunderstood it as an AC adapter plugged into the service outlet.

#113 2 years ago

Yep, I'm guessing that's what it is, I haven't pulled the AC cover to take a look, but the power brick wiring goes up inside there. It's got JST connectors in a Y-split, going to each speaker and connecting to an addressable LED strip, I believe. It just goes around the rectangle shape of the speakers. Simple controller in-line with a few hundred settings. The former owner set it to solid red, and didn't include the remote control, so I can't do much with it. Ordered a replacement just to mess with it though.

#114 2 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Yep, I'm guessing that's what it is, I haven't pulled the AC cover to take a look, but the power brick wiring goes up inside there. It's got JST connectors in a Y-split, going to each speaker and connecting to an addressable LED strip, I believe. It just goes around the rectangle shape of the speakers. Simple controller in-line with a few hundred settings. The former owner set it to solid red, and didn't include the remote control, so I can't do much with it. Ordered a replacement just to mess with it though.

It sounds like one of my type 12 light kits. If that is the case...the power transformer is +5vdc 6amps. Those light strips (lighting all 84 bulbs at white, full brightness) should pull 5.04 amps max. So the power transformer has a little less than 20% overhead on the light kits max amp draw vs what the power transformer can offer.

Maybe that will help you with your connection decision.

#115 2 years ago

DugFreez it looks like it might be one of yours, yes. The adapter actually looks similar to some laptop adapters I've had over the years. But it is indeed 5V , 6A output. I didn't realize those LEDs would pull that much amperage at full blast. I don't know what that little projector would need from an amperage perspective. If it's sub 1A, should be ok. Hmmm.

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