(Topic ID: 248333)

Deadpool flipper - getting stuck!


By BeeGeeMtl

8 months ago



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  • 29 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by schudel5
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#1 8 months ago

I purchased this NIB Deadpool pro about 9 months ago, and just recently the left flipper started to get "stuck' in the UP position (see pic). Basically, when pushing the left flipper and removing my finger from button, the flipper stays in that position and takes more than 5 seconds to come down, sometimes it doesn't come down at all.

I tried to clean around it (on playfield), but that didn't make a shit of difference.

Any idea what the problem might be? Is it just a matter of greasing up the gears under the playfield?

deadpool-flipper (resized).JPG
#2 8 months ago

I remember Stern had a problem with thier coil stops, take it apart and see if there's any wear.

#3 8 months ago
Quoted from wdennie:

I remember Stern had a problem with thier coil stops, take it apart and see if there's any wear.

Oh, I forgot to mention...I'm not a techie by any stretch of the imagination.

Had a friend check it out, he used very little DW40 and that seemed to work, is that cool?

#4 8 months ago

Don't use grease anywhere in your pinball machine. It's not necessary.

Agree, it's probably the coil stop. Go learn what that is, remove yours (takes an allen wrench...though not sure what size off the top of my head). You'll probably find that the nub of the coil stop is loose. It shouldn't be. Order a new one (any online parts supplier will do) and replace it. It's one of the easiest repairs in pinball.

If it is the coil stop, you'll probably also see a bunch of gold dust in the bottom of the cabinet, right below where the coil is.

If the nub on the coil stop is not loose, come back here and post about it so we can tell you what to look at next.

#5 8 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Had a friend check it out, he used very little DW40 and that seemed to work, is that cool?

Edit: Apparently WD40 is a big no-no!

You're putting a band-aid onto some other problem that will eventually resurface.

Pinball machines are designed to work without grease/lubricant (exception: motors, but I don't believe Deadpool has any), so I wouldn't rely on that for any fix.

If you own pinball machines, it's worth learning a few things about them. You don't have to be a techie...just comfortable enough to remove the glass, remove the balls, lift the playfield, and start poking around to see why things aren't moving smoothly. Most fixes are just ordering a new part and replacing the old one.

#6 8 months ago

Also WD40 can catch on fire!

#7 8 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

he used very little DW40 and that seemed to work, is that cool?

Yikes! Put down the can and step away! Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. Go directly to jail...

Rule #1 for pinball fight club: Never use WD40 in a pinball machine. EVER!

Almost guarantee you it's the coil stop. Stern must have bought 200M defective coil stops from Takata and they're going to use them all up. No. Matter. What. Buy a new Stern coil stop from Pinball Life and replace.

#8 8 months ago

Yipes! Okay, glad I asked! We used VERY LITTLE dw40, but fair enough....my bad!

Will order a new Stern coil stop and have my buddy replace it. Is this it? https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-stern-coil-stop.html

Oh, what "mounting hole size" should I be ordering? (all #6 mounting holes or #6 and #8 mounting holes?)

#9 8 months ago

Those are for classic Stern games 1976 to 1984. You want this type. Get a few for spares.

https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html

#10 8 months ago

replace the coil sleeves while you're in there. Do both sides.

#11 8 months ago

Could be something as simple as the flipper shaft is binding. Lift playfield and loosen the pawl nut, make sure the flipper shaft is slightly (1/8") raised and tighten down the nut. You can use an old credit card and cut a slot in it to get the proper gap.

#12 8 months ago

You should verify that a coil stop is actually what you need before ordering. (We're just making educated guesses). It could turn out that you need something else, but you can't know for sure unless you lift the playfield and take a look.

#13 8 months ago

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194

Here is one... but you can make your own with an old CC

#14 8 months ago

Thanks for all the suggestions, fellas! Again, I can't make heads/tails out of much when raising the playfield but my buddy is more adept and he's gonna read over your recommendations and we're gonna give it another shot. Will advise, thanks!!

#15 8 months ago

The good thing is that it is a mechanical issue and should be straightforward to fix. You don't need to be a "techie". If you can use basic hand tools, this is a great beginner problem to solve and see how the mechanisms work.

Look at how the right flipper mechanism is behaving and compare it to the left. You don't need the power ON to move the flipper bats by hand and watch what happens. Also, if you are going to start adjusting/replacing things like coil stops and coil sleeves, DO NOT take apart the left and right flipper at the same time so you can have a good one as a working reference point.

And has been stated repeatedly, no WD40 or any lubrication should be used on any of the moving flipper mechanism parts.

#16 8 months ago
Quoted from dug:

Could be something as simple as the flipper shaft is binding. Lift playfield and loosen the pawl nut, make sure the flipper shaft is slightly (1/8") raised as tighten down the nut. You can use an old credit card and cut a slot in it to get the proper gap.

Likely this above.

see around post #17 in this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/right-flipper-sticking-stern-acdc

#17 8 months ago

Brilliant, thanks man!

#18 8 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Brilliant, thanks man!

Also, sometimes the flipper buttons will stick on, especially some of the aftermarket clear buttons.

#19 8 months ago

Just had a similar problem on my IMDN. Did you check your return spring? If it’s just dangling there that’s your issue. That’s my bet.

#20 8 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Oh, I forgot to mention...I'm not a techie by any stretch of the imagination.

Had a friend check it out, he used very little DW40 and that seemed to work, is that cool?

WTH!? Never have him work on or look at any your pins again. This is absolutely the worst thing you can do, in fact if you have any WD40...throw it away, I cant think of a single thing (other than a makeshift blow torch) that its good for.

EDIT: Sorry, my jaw hit the table when I read this and didnt make it past this post before replying ... I see many others are on the same page.

#21 8 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

WTH!? Never have him work on or look at any your pins again. This is absolutely the worst thing you can do, in fact if you have any WD40...throw it away, I cant think of a single thing (other than a makeshift blow torch) that its good for.
EDIT: Sorry, my jaw hit the table when I read this and didnt make it past this post before replying ... I see many others are on the same page.

Yup, live and learn!!

#22 8 months ago

So I played a few games today and it seems to be working just fine (for now, at least).

I understand that I should NEVER use DW40 again, but do I still have to worry about my machine "catching on fire" at this point?

I figure that I'll wait until it happens again before trying to resolve the issue properly, as per all of your suggestions.

Thoughts?

#23 8 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I understand that I should NEVER use DW40 again, but do I still have to worry about my machine "catching on fire" at this point?

Probably not, but your flipper mechs are going to turn into a gooey sticky mess.

2 weeks later
#24 7 months ago

I’m having the same issue on my Deadpool pro nib only on the right side. It makes a different noise from the left flipper when I manually operate it. Any suggestions?

#25 7 months ago
Quoted from Finisher604:

I’m having the same issue on my Deadpool pro nib only on the right side. It makes a different noise from the left flipper when I manually operate it. Any suggestions?

It's usually the same few things every time.
mushroomed plunger binding on the sleeve. (this is the most likely, this is also what zaps most of the power)
The return spring broke.
the drive transistor failed.
coil stop.
a closed flipper switch.

#26 7 months ago

Very often this is as simple as not having enough play between the flipper bat and the playfield bushing, so it binds slightly. Grab the flipper bat and see if there is a small amount of play up and down (from the playfield). If not, loosen the pawl under the playfield, pull it up a hair (like 1/32"-1/16"...not too much), realign and tighten. I have had this on a number of machines, and it's a super easy thing to check first.

2 weeks later
#27 6 months ago

Just wanted to let everyone know that the problems came back after my initial f*ckup, but I ordered the coil stop as many of you suggested, got it changed and so far it's kicking ass, so hopefully that was the problem. Thanks again to everyone for your guidance.

#28 6 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Just wanted to let everyone know that the problems came back after my initial f*ckup, but I ordered the coil stop as many of you suggested, got it changed and so far it's kicking ass, so hopefully that was the problem. Thanks again to everyone for your guidance.

I just replaced a coil stop and sleeve in a Deadpool on Sunday, it didn't need the coil sleeve, but I don't like cleaning these and just toss them. The dead giveaway that you have, or will soon have a failed coil stop is the pile of brass dust you will find in the bottom of the cabinet under the flipper. I started seeing this excessive buildup around a month before it actually failed ... sorry, I should have taken a picture of this

#29 6 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The dead giveaway that you have, or will soon have a failed coil stop is the pile of brass dust you will find in the bottom of the cabinet under the flipper.

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