(Topic ID: 186553)

Dead Replay Button on Sittin' Pretty

By wschaub

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by wschaub
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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aSittin-Pretty-pinside-snippet-Work-01 (resized).jpg
Sittin_Pretty Schematic (resized).JPG
P1010611 (resized).JPG
P1010605 (resized).JPG
0Buckaroo-Work-09 (resized).jpg
At Rest No Power 2 (resized).JPG
After Power & Reset (resized).JPG
After Score (resized).JPG

#1 6 years ago

I’m restoring a Sittin’ Pretty and have run into a problem that has me stumped although I don’t think it should. I’m documenting the rehab on that forum.
The replay / start button has stopped working.
The game has been set on free play for at least 48 years and worked fine.
I was working on the 100k stepper which had become reluctant to turn.
I am not detecting any voltage (120) on the switch at the door.
There is voltage on the adjacent anti-cheat switch on the door.
If I jump the leads between the two switches and flip the (added) on/off toggle with a jumper on the leads the game will start. Button still inactive.
Without the leads jumped and the toggle switch on, I can manually trip the start relay and the game starts. Replay button still dead.
I did mark the reset position and re-aligned to the mark on re-assembly but I notice that none of the contacts from the wiper arm are on any river on the board.
I have posted pictures of the reset relay / reset coil switches and a video (

) of the behavior when manually trip the start relay.
I’m missing something but I cannot figure out what. If anyone can provide a clue, it would be appreciated.

After Score (resized).JPGAfter Score (resized).JPG

After Power & Reset (resized).JPGAfter Power & Reset (resized).JPG

At Rest No Power 2 (resized).JPGAt Rest No Power 2 (resized).JPG

#2 6 years ago

Bump

#3 6 years ago

Hi wschaub
well, it is a very old pin. I do not know what the Name of the Unit is - the one You show pictures of. I do not get what switches / leads You jumper - it seems as if a preowner has added a Toggle-Switch into the maim power cord.

You can manually start a game --- I assume You would like to start a game by pressing the Replay-Button ?
Do You have a schematics ? Dou You have an "small coin Coin-Chute ? An Adj-Jack for "ONE Coin --- ONE Play ? Does this Coin-Chute works and start a game ?

Can You show something like I show from Buckaroo ? Please write in other / new words about the problem(s). (((Wild guessing: I am not the only one who does not understand))) Greetings Rolf

0Buckaroo-Work-09 (resized).jpg0Buckaroo-Work-09 (resized).jpg

#4 6 years ago

Hello Rolf, thanks for jumping in. The game is a Gottlieb "Sittin' Pretty" from 1958 which I received as a birthday present 48 years ago. The game has been on free play since I had it and the replay button worked as desired after I added the power switch. That is, with the power on pressing the replay button at any time would start a new game and reset the score. When I said I could manually start the game I was doing that by raising the playfield and pressing the lever on the start relay with the power on.

I cleaned and reassembled the hundred-thousand stepper in the back cabinet just before the replay button stopped working. The pictures of the replay/reset switches on that stepper are attached to the original post as I thought there might be an issue with the re-assembly of the stepper.

There has not been a complete coin mechanism on the machine since I had it. I have attached some pictures off the door and the schematic.

Thanks for the help.

P1010605 (resized).JPGP1010605 (resized).JPG

P1010611 (resized).JPGP1010611 (resized).JPG

Sittin_Pretty Schematic (resized).JPGSittin_Pretty Schematic (resized).JPG

#5 6 years ago

Hi wschaub
I actually have played in the very late 1960ies such old pins - therefore I bought me one - I love my Ice Revue http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1262 --- I do not yet have a schematics - I am glad it runs.

My goal in / with Your problem is: At least making an acceptable "Work-Around" - the pin is no longer in an arcade-saloon - You behave and do not press the Replay-Button at times "by now - it is just nonsense".

I show the interesting part of Your snippet of schematics. My "red lines" show the path to activate the S-Start-Relay. We see: DANGER --- the stuff is operated by 110 VAC - the 110 VAC can kill You.
So I strongly advice the (I call it) "De Luxe Jumpering": We always use two Jumper-Wires and hold together the free ends "in the open".

Whenever You work on the pin: UNPLUG the main power cord ! Depending on where in the wiring Your 110VAC-Toggle-Switch is mounted: You may toggle-off - BUT THE FUSE HAS STILL 110 VAC !!! - So always unplug the main power cord.

The first jumpering asks the question "When we jumper (bypass) everything on the "Power-Side-Connection to 'Coil on S-Start-Relay' " --- does the S-Start-Relay actuate ?

Have the pin toggled-off and unplugged. Clip-on a Jumper-Wire at "5 Amp Fuse SIDE wire-of-color-black is soldered-on" --- WE WANT THE FUSE in our circuitry (((IF You would use the other side of the fuse for a starting-point for jumpering: You then would NOT have the fuse in Your circuitry)))
(You have the pin toggled-off, unplugged) Clip-on the Jumper-Wire at the fuse and take the other end out (through open Coin-Door) into the open. Lay down the gator-clip of the Jumper-Wire secure - NOT touching metal.
Take a second Jumper-Wire, clip on at "Coil on S-Start-Relay, side-wire-of-color-brown is soldered-on". Take the other end of the Jumper-Wire through the open coin-door out into the open and lay down the gator-clip not touching metal.

NOW plug-in, toggle-on the pin. With one hand You hold the insulation of one Jumper-Wire (NEVER TOUCH the metal gator-clip) and with the other hand You hold the insulation of the other Jumper-Wire. You put together for a moment the two gator-clips (touching) --- question: Does the S-Start-Relay pulls ?

IF (if) "no luck, S-Relay does not pull": Toggle-off and unplug the main power cord. Take an new / other Jumper-Wire and establish "permanent connection" on the return-side --- se my "encircled blue" lines in the JPG --- It might be easyer to clip on at "Coil on W-Relay" (?).

Have the first two Jumper-Wires ready - plug-in, toggle-on and hold together the gator-clips of the first two Jumper-Wires --- question: Doe the S-Start-Relay pulls ?

Please write about the first (and maybe second) test --- depending on Your writing: We do other testing (means You take out the Coil on S-Relay / measure Ohms) --- or we do proceed in looking for the cause of the fault (we look at the rest of my "marked green stuff" in the JPG). Greetings Rolf

aSittin-Pretty-pinside-snippet-Work-01 (resized).jpgaSittin-Pretty-pinside-snippet-Work-01 (resized).jpg

#6 6 years ago

OK Rolf, Test # 1 worked so it appears that the start relay / coil is OK. I'm still suspicious that the switches on the hundred-thousands stepper are involved with problem but it may well be something with the coin unit as there are still some switches left from the coin unit. I'll continue to study the schematic.

I am more aware than most that there is 110v on the doors of these old Gottlieb pins. When I was a teenager and working on a plugged in machine and peering through the door, I turned my head in the wrong direction and hit the switch with my nose. There was a flash of light and the next thing I knew was that I was on my backside about 2 meters from where I had been! I am also not too proud to put on a pair of gloves when working on the 110v parts.

I used to work for the company that owned a German company named Gödecke which was based in Freiburg so I used to go to your part of the world every few months. Trips I miss.

- Warren Gustave Schaub

#7 6 years ago

Hi Warren
great - test-1 worked. So You could do a "work-around": Unsolder the connecting wires at Replay-Button and tape the free ends of the unsoldered wires. Then make a permanent jumper my "green Yes, Starting Point" --- Jumper-Wire to "my green 9". And a second permanent Jumper-Wire connecting "my green 8 to my green 1". And You behave and only press the Replay-Button "when it is time to press the button".

To proceed in testing: You always toggle-off, unplug the main power cord --- let the "left green Jumper-Wire" as is (on Starting Point) --- unclip the right green Jumper-Wire - clip it on at "my green 2" --- then plug-in, toggle-on and try the "putting together the two free gator clips".

And You slowly work Yourself through - for the next test have right Jumper-Wire clipped-on at "my green 3" ... and then "green 4" etc.

Or You can change the clip-on point of the left Jumper-Wire - see the other "(SP)" --- or You can do a combination of the two "changing the clip-on point. The only important thing is : FIRST You think of "what do I want to Jumper" - second You do exactly THIS Jumper (You want to do). Greetings Rolf

P.S.: Yes - trips to Europe are great --- trips to the USA are great.

#8 6 years ago

Thanks Rolf, I have some running around to do Today but I might be able to test later on, if not tomorrow. You have been a great help and I do like your collection.

#9 6 years ago

Well, I've tested all of the contact points suggested (there is no W/ Extra Chute relay on this particular machine but the switch has been set to be permanently closed) and when jumped the machine started each time. So I've done the work around suggested by Rolf which allows me to proceed with the restoration.

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