(Topic ID: 105360)

PotC owners club: "Dead men tell no tales..."

By rai

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,068 posts
  • 201 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 26 days ago by arcademojo
  • Topic is favorited by 88 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“Are you a Pirate?”

  • Arrg, I'm a Pirate 151 votes
  • I wish I were a Pirate 60 votes
  • I have no interest in Pirates 17 votes
  • I was a Pirate in the past but not at present. 32 votes

(260 votes)

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#90 4 years ago

Just joined the club last weekend! Cleaned it up and fixed the 16 technician errors DOH! Looks and plays great now!

Lets see some pictures of painted treasure chests along with paints used and procedure used!

#92 4 years ago

^^^^^ THIS! PLEASE HURRY! ^^^^^^

1 month later
#116 4 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

anybody know where you can get little coil for ship sails?

Yep assuming you are referring to the coil that drops the sails... http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5074-03

#117 4 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

ok, just for clarification, when you shoot at the ship the first few times, is little rubber bumper supposed to stay up until you hit a flipper? mine does it on first ship only. some do and some of them ive played don't.

Mine drops without pressing the flippers, right after the animation and light show (a second or 2).

Could you have a mechanical issue hanging up the post and the vibration from the flippers shakes it loose? Try testing the post in coil test. It should go up and down by itself in coil test...

#118 4 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Check out this one I'm working on - fresh coats of clear on this bad boy...
Arg! It's restore like a pirate day here....


1 month later
#125 4 years ago

I can easily hit the Port Royal ramp from a cradle with a clean shot. Sounds like a flipper rebuild is the way to go. You should also check your playfield pitch to make sure it is not too steep.

1 month later
#138 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Is it deep and difficult?

It's not real deep in the "different and unique modes" area. But it is a challenge to finish. You have to complete lots of tasks. I will have not finished mine.

#144 4 years ago

As others have said, the theme and gameplay resonates with non-pinheads which adds the population of buyers. I also do not understand why people on here bash the game yet think more simple games are better. POTC has a variety of shots that are fun to learn to hit if you take your time to figure out why and when to hit them.

I think the biggest reason it gets knocked by pinheads is the ship is easy to hit and rarely punishes you for trying the shot. The monkey on the other hand, is a very risky shot for me. Half an inch left or right and you have a very fast shot SDTM!

They can he had for less than $3500 in routed condition. That being said, my routed POTC cleaned up beautifully. The finish on the PF seems to be bullet proof and cleans up nicely! The dead giveaway on mine is the shooter lane, it took a beating!

#154 4 years ago

I was able to finish Davey Jones but I didn't complete the Monkey shot... I figured out that completing the Monkey while holding a ball during multiball works well....

#158 4 years ago
Quoted from jwwhite15:

Has anyone else done this? I WANT it but not sure how difficult it is. I am not a super computer guy, I know enough to get in trouble. Feedback would be much appreciated. I did read through most of the steps but still seems a little cloudy. Thanx in advance

There are a few threads on here on the assembly process. It is not as simple as ColorDMD but it does not appear all that hard. I would also recommend the Pinball Mike parts kit, he provides some great instruction.

4 months later
#225 3 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Can it be that transistor Q32 is bad?

Sure can! Transistors can fail shorted which would cause the flasher to stay on. Decent directions to test a transistor with a DMM can be found here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=general#Testing_a_Transistor.2C_Silicon_Controlled_Rectifier_.28SCR.29_or_Field_Effect_Transistor_.28FET.29

If the transistor needs to be replaced, also replace the associated diode.

1 month later
#245 3 years ago
Quoted from treasurecove:

ebay.com link
nice Pirates on eBay.

Wow, a reasonably priced pinball machine on eBay! Must be a first... Looks like a nice machine! GLWS

1 week later
#253 3 years ago
Quoted from pinworthy:

This pin was in a home for the last 7-8 years and it really makes me wonder how long it was like that

Congrats on joining the club!

I think people either don't know it is wrong or are too afraid to pay to fix it. I picked up a Firepower once that every time your hit a switch, it would say "Firepower". The owner said "Don't they all sound that way?"

1 month later
#268 3 years ago
Quoted from DrScoops:

s there something she could have done to stress the part

Welcome to the club!

I can't see how someone could do anything from the outside of the machine to stress that part. Just weird timing....

Quoted from DrScoops:

but I can't figure out how to remove the broken one and install the new one.

To get at the link, grab a 1/4" nut driver and remove the screws holding the coil bracket to the playfield. The pins of the link are held in place with spring clips that should simply pop off using a small screw driver. Post up more specific questions if you need more help.

Quoted from DrScoops:

Should I be concerned?

If the flipper is functioning normally, I would not be concerned. If the sound bugs you, check to see if the flipper coil is mounted tightly in the flipper mechanism. Power to the coil is pulsed many times per second when holding the flipper up. Sometimes the coil windings vibrate when this is happening, sometimes the coil is just a little loose in its mount.

#279 3 years ago

Jack the monkey has blocked me the few times I got that far...

1 week later
#310 3 years ago

Those of you that missed out, keep an eye on ePay, this seller has posted several PoTC plastic sets...

#316 3 years ago
Quoted from dung:

The clutch, which was bad on mine, is 60.

You might be able to rebuild your clutch with these parts depending on whats broken or worn. See page 80 of the manual for an exploded diagram of the clutch.



#327 3 years ago
Quoted from pinworthy:

I changed the flipper bands to red to match the plastics and changed the bats to black to match the cannons

Looks great!

2 weeks later
#370 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

When the white sail on the left collapses does it hit the ship...mine does....

Mine does not hit the ship. Was yours always hitting or is it only doing this after you worked on it?

Maybe all you need to do is slightly bend the metal to which the sail is mounted. Be careful you don't bend it too far to where it interferes with the other sail.

Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

anybody else have problems with ball going up monkey ramp?

I only have problems making it when I need the shot to finish the Monkey! Seriously, mine is easily make-able with a good shot, even a backhand. This is not to say it is an easy shot. What are you seeing?

3 weeks later
#447 3 years ago

They don't go completely down or don't go down at all when the ship is sinking?

I had a broken wire for the sail solenoid that allowed the sail solenoid to work perfectly when the ship was in the all the way up position but would not drop the sails as it rocked to sink. I replaced the sail solenoid wiring and it works perfectly now.

#451 3 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Thanks for the comment. Figured it may be easier to just post a video than try to explain. Any help is appreciated!

That is exactly what my sails did that had an intermittent connection inside the wire for the sail solenoid. I also agree with Peter and pinworthy that your ship is not moving correctly. The back and forth movement should be more fluid and it seems to be missing some up and down movement as it rocks. Pull the mechanism and clean, lubricate the pivot points and check the track that the ship slides along. Replacement parts for the wear items in the ship is available at Pinball Life and Marcos.

3 weeks later
#578 3 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Has anyone found a way to diffuse the 4 small red LEDs inside the dead man's chest? It loses the effect for me when I can see the individual LEDs flashing inside the heart.


I cut a piece of red velum and put it between the board with the LEDs and the plastic. The velum is translucent and totally obscures the LEDs under the treasure.

1 week later
#615 3 years ago

I took mine off. I don't think it is there for strength as much as preventing stuck balls in an around the ship from airballs.

If you take it off, it does create an area behind the rum ramp that can trap balls. They end up in the area just above the ship shot. I was "lucky" in that the plastic that covers the ship shot was cracked to I just cut out the plastic with a dremel. Now if the ball goes airborne and ends up behind the rum ramp it simply drops down into the ship shot lane!

#635 3 years ago

In the 18 months and 100s of plays on mine, I never had a ball make it behind the ship when it was down. In fact, it rarely jumps behind the rum ramp.

There is a clutch on the ship that should be slipping when the ship gets jammed. Worst case, you are wearing the clutch out slightly faster than normal.

2 weeks later
#667 3 years ago

That looks great! Very detailed. Love the lighting. Do you think the figures will hold up to being hit by the occasional pinball?

3 weeks later
#700 3 years ago

I had a ton of airballs off the green targets when I first got my POTC. All I needed to do was tighten down the target mounting brackets. They were lose allowing the target to lean back causing airballs on the bounce back.

#706 3 years ago

Swampfire, also consider disconnecting the post in the ship shot lane. You can reduce its use in the settings but it is always used through the first ship. Eliminating its use will make the ship shot a little more risky.

3 weeks later
#727 2 years ago

Mine came out of Chucky Cheese and had 54,000 plays and original code on it when it arrived. VERY dirty but it cleaned up nicely. The clear coat on the PF looks VERY shiny and I only used Novus 2 (not one of the polish kits) when I shopped it. With a new plastic set and once I polish the PF, you would have a hard time telling it wasn't HUO if it weren't for the shooter lane wear and cabinet wear on the corner of the cabinet near the flipper buttons.

Point being, I wouldn't be afraid of a routed POTC at a good price (south of $4k).

1 week later
#730 2 years ago

The wave crashing DMD animation is when you earn bonus multipliers. There is a jackpot callout and basic animation.

3 weeks later
#752 2 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

I may be in the minority here, but I'm really digging the stock incandescent look. That's coming from someone who's led'd a bunch of machines. I can't seem to bring myself to do it to this one...

I agree that some games should be left with incandescents. For me it is Firepower probably due to the sheer number of quarters I dropped in that sucker in the day and am used to the look. I put white LEDs in my T2 GI and color matched the inserts. It looks great on this title IMO.

3 months later
#801 2 years ago

Agree, check the sail solenoid and/or wire leading up to it. The wire flexes a lot and eventually breaks somewhere along the line. Usually there is no visual evidence that the wire is broken. My sails would work in solenoid test but not during game as the ship is slightly moved when the sails sink during the ship sinking event. Sometimes the wire makes connection with the wire flexed in certain positions, not others.

3 weeks later
#839 2 years ago

Welcome to the club! Mine had 1.14 on it when I got it. Backup your code before you upgrade it, you may want to play it someday...

I didn't have any trouble finding a USB drive to update mine. The spec sheet says any USB 1.1 compatible drive will work. That is an old spec but most new drives are probably backwards compatible. I think I used an older, smaller one I had laying around.

#842 2 years ago
Quoted from ercvacation:

How do you back it up?

Plug in a USB drive, go to the USB menu, under Utilities and select Backup.

2 months later
#939 2 years ago

I'm not a great player but did have one lucky game and defeated Davey Jones. I still had that damn monkey to finish so I didn't quite complete the the game. Never been close since.

1 month later
#1099 2 years ago

Danger bounce.

2 months later
#1199 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I have some problems with the ships sails. In the test mode they seem to go down correct. So the solenoid is working. Then in game it just is not working 100%. Most of the times the sails won't go down. The other solenoid that make the sails shake seems to work correct. Any ideas or suggestions to solve this issue?

I had the exact problem. Sails worked in test but not in the game. Thought it was mechanical for the longest time. Cleaned and lubed the whole mechanism. Ended up being a broken wire in the harness to the sail drop solenoid (the small one). In test mode, the ship is in a different position than when in the game when it drops the sails. The slight additional bend in the wire when in the game, caused a break in the wire. I just replaced them with new wires and its worked ever since.

#1224 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

That's a thought. If the entry opto "flutters", I guess the machine would conclude that additional balls were locked, even though that's not actually the case. I'll check that opto, thanks!

If the opto was fluttering, wouldn't the timer over for the next attempt to lock the ball start over?

This is a weird one...

Only thing I can think of is the code has been corrupted or a problem with the memory that is storing the status of the timer. Have you tried to watch the timer countdown when this happens (easier said than done... )?

2 months later
#1305 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Maybe my question got missed in the whole gameplay tutorial by Mitch (thanks for that by the way!) or maybe I just got ignored alltogether.
But I'd like to quote myself and hopefully somebody can help me get the spinning disc disassembled without damaging it. Thanks!

I have removed mine around the backboard. Its just a matter of disconnecting the wiring and turning the assembly to the point where it comes out. It is tight.

The metal disk is attached with a allen head set screw. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Make sure you have a tight fitting allen wrench. If it is to tight, you can try heating it up with a soldering iron, then trying to loosen it.

My original motor squeaked. Most notable as the motor spins to a stop. I tried lubricating it to no avail. I believe the squeaking sound is coming from the motor brushes. I recently had to replace it, and the new one squeaks exactly like the old one....

1 month later
#1323 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

I'm still looking for a good solution to permanently fix the problem with the poor circuit board connectors for the opto boards. (It happens even with brand-new board and optos, as I found out the hard way.) If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be keen to hear them!

Stern games have a similar problem on the trough connector and I've had the same problem on STTNG opto board. To solve it, I used Dielectric Grease. Using a Qtip, wipe an invisible layer of dielectric grease on the pins. You should not gob it on, just make the pins "wet" with the grease. Reassemble the connector.

My AVLE used to start to loose track of balls every 25-100 games due to a flaky connection on the trough opto board. Since applying a thin layer of Dielectric Grease, I have not had the problem in 3 years. Same with the STTNG opto board. Try the grease on the connector to the switch matrix first. I have not needed it on the actual opto connectors.

You can get it at your local auto parts store or Amazon.

amazon.com link »

1 week later
#1368 1 year ago

Carefully watch as the ship is coming up. Is the motor running and the clutch slipping during the last part of the travel?

If the motor is running, either the ship is binding (causing the clutch to do it's job and slipping to prevent the motor from burning up) or the clutch is slipping and is too loose.

I would take the ship out, disassemble (take lots of pictures!) all the mechanical and pivot points, clean, lube and re-assemble. Look for worn parts and replace as needed. Retest in the game.

Have a look at the wear track. If this is worn, it can cause binding preventing the ship from moving correctly.

2 weeks later
#1399 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Hi Guys, making some progress with the talking skull topper. Hooked it up to a spare 5V in the backbox but am still unable to make it interactive with the game.
This might be a bit off-topic but since my electronics skills fall short, I’m guessing you guys might be able to point me in the right direction.
The talking skull has a single IR diode in the nose that should detect movement in the room. It works miserably but I wanted to hook the skull up with either an opto of the chest made switch anyway and don’t use it again.
There’s a very small current running over the IR diode. When I short the leads nothing happens but once I disconnect the leads afterwards, this triggers the skull. So apparently that’s what he IR diode does? When light in the room changes (movement is detected) it shortly disconnect the circuit?
Is there any way to make a switch (like chest made) disconnect the shorted leads on the talking skull? Or are we talking more complex schematics here?

Might be simpler to tie into the chest lid solenoid. You could simply use a 48V relay. Tie the relay's coil onto the chest lid coil. Connect the relay switched leads to your topper. Something like this should work:


1 week later
#1424 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

Problem still happening. I changed the opto board and both optos with new ones. No success.
As soon as the ball go into the plunger lane, by pushing the flippers or the ball going in the pops, the ship takes a hit until it sinks and Kraken is defeated.
Is there a way to adjust optos sensibility?

There isn't an opto sensitivity adjustment, you still have an intermittent connection somewhere.

Doublecheck that you have the ship optos plugged into J3 and J4.

You replaced the opto board (the board with four 2 pin connectors for optos and a larger 5 pin connector)?

If so, you replaced everything in this circuit and the only thing left is the 5 pin connector that provides the board power and connects the board to the switch matrix. I would replace the factory 5 pin IDC connector with a new crimp on style connector with trifuricon crimp-on pins.

If you have not replaced this board, carefully look at all the 2 pin headers and the 5 pin connector header pins for cold solder joints. You may just want to reflow the solder to them or better yet, replace the header pins. If that does not solve it, I would replace the 5 pin IDC connector.

#1441 1 year ago

I was very disappointed with the JPOTC soundtrack. I was hoping for more epic, immersive movie scores. The first movie has an awesome score, it is sad that it was not used. The gameplay looks cool from the vids.

Bottom line for me is for the price. All I can say is I look forward to playing it at one of my friend's places.

And as for JPOTC killing the price on POTC, I can't see that happening. A dip, maybe but a crash, no. If POTC was a stinker of a game and people were buying it purely for the theme, maybe. But POTC is a fun game and will stand on its own regardless of how fun JPOTC is.

1 month later
#1572 1 year ago

I have the LCD in mine set on the smoothing setting - l love it. The colorization is one of the best.

I've seen the LED version and really don't like it. The dots appear smaller than the plasma display and is really distracting to me. Very bright, pure colors but the spacing and/or dot size make it a non-starter for me.

1 month later
#1665 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

Personally, I don't like LEDs for the Tortuga and Key lights. No matter what you do, they look too bright and lack character. IMO, using the original coloured incandescents looks best.

Totally agree with you. In fact, this is one title I don't like LEDs in at all. The warm, burning color of incandescents works really well with the theme!

#1669 1 year ago
Quoted from Bendit:

I can see that. I was going to try and re-use the "condoms" that are already on the lights. This should dim them.
And yes, I agree that the yellow glow of incandescent lights works awesome with the theme. I already wrote that.
We'll see how it turns out. Cheers!

I like these much better than the condoms:


2 months later
#1715 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Upgraded my Kraken

Looks awesome!

1 month later
#1806 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

Go for warm white. Daylight white has no place in a POTC. Badly clashes with all the warm colours on the playfield.

I left mine incandescent for this reason. The warm glow of those bulbs burning fits the theme better than LEDs IMO.

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