PotC owners club: "Dead men tell no tales..."

(Topic ID: 105360)

PotC owners club: "Dead men tell no tales..."

By rai

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,057 posts
  • 199 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by jetmechinnc
  • Topic is favorited by 88 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“Are you a Pirate?”

  • Arrg, I'm a Pirate 150 votes
  • I wish I were a Pirate 58 votes
  • I have no interest in Pirates 17 votes
  • I was a Pirate in the past but not at present. 32 votes

(257 votes)

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#1833 10 months ago

I guess I'll chime in here... got pirates 2 years ago, new in box from some dude that had a bunch of NIB pins sitting in storage. I'd say it gets the most play in our collection but it still looks brand new.

Coin Taker LED kit and a few toys:

Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

It would be great to get a quick video of the super duper skill shot!

1 month later
#1854 8 months ago

My pin has the same weak eject issue at the weak pop bumper eject coil. It is now to the point where I have to time my nudging with the ejection to get the ball to clear the hole.

This is a very low mileage unit, in mint condition. Mounting bracket and hardware all secure, nothing loose. Plunger moves freely in sleeve. Ohm tested coil, it was the same value as the other 26-1200 coils. No failed soldier joints, wiring ohm tested to factory design.

I'm thinking the Q18 driver transistor is the issue, Stern part number 110-0067-00. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TIP122

I'll be turning in an order to Marco soon enough for another project, so no big deal to grab that while I'm at it. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

#1866 8 months ago

That is how it goes... but the glass he hell bent on guillotine the wire as soon as you remove the lock bar. The button/bulb part is a snug fit through the opening in the lock bar.

Unless you are actually going to use the tournament button, just leave that bit of wiring off.

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2 months later
#1936 5 months ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

How often should the CR2430 battery be changed

I got my pirates "new in box" in 2016. Some guy had purchased 5 or 6 different pins and never set them up, they sat in storage for years. So my battery was 10 years old when I unboxed it, no issues and was still working fine... but at a few bucks, I replaced it. As a general rule, these types of batteries are going to last a lot longer (not leak) than AA batteries, but time will catch up.

If aren't sure how old the battery is, then play it safe and replace it, about the cheapest part you can buy for a pinball machine.

1 month later
#1964 4 months ago

HELP! pop bumper eject, coil #18 is weak.

Hardware is all tight. Coil ohm test at 10.5Ω at the coil and 10.7Ω across wiring harness + coil. New Q18 TIP122 transistor installed. Cleaned pin and coil sleeve, move very freely.

Everything else works to factory design. Any suggestions?

#1975 4 months ago

The pop bumpers work fine, in coil test mode for #9, #10 and #11 work just fine. I don't see the connection between the pop bumper coils and pop bumper eject coil.

Coils #9, #10 and #11 are on a 50V circuit, J10 /9 and /10 (yellow/violet), then grounded on J9 /1, /2 and /4.
Coil #18 is on a 20V circuit, J7 /1 (brown) and grounded on J7/3

Looking at the wiring diagram on page 97, I don't see how these items tie together.

The plunger for coil 18 is visually fine and moves freely in the sleeve (no binding).

I'm not a fan of IDC connectors used in all pins... I wonder if I could have a voltage drop under load. I may see about making a quick and dirty overlay harness for coil 18 and see if that helps.

#1982 4 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Pencilneck, please let us know what was the cause of your problem when you resolve it.

Got it vastly improved, the 3 things that all together got it working "good enuff":

1 - I had quickly wiped down the pin and coil sleeve before... went back and cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol.
2 - Bracket that holds coil, secured with 2 phillip screws, loosened the screws and squeezed the ever living crap out of it with my bare hand to have it hold the coil tighter, then torqued screws back down. Coil is held a bit tighter now.
3 - Loosened the 2 screws that go into the playfield, twisted bracket a hair to help center up the pin in the opening, torqued wood screws back down.

I still feel like it doesn't eject with the same velocity it use to, but it is now clearing out every time and in most cases will just catch lower pop bumper. As I recall when we first pulled this out of the box, it would eject right into the upper left pop bumper.

3 weeks later
#2006 3 months ago

If you suspect the disc, then just block off the ramp with a small towel or something so the ball can't get up there. Now play several games and see if it still snows.

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