Hey everyone... I'm looking into purchasing a POTC. Can anyone help me with common issues/areas/tests to look into (or if it's been discussed, link me to it)? Thanks!
(Topic ID: 105360)
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Pirates of the Caribbean
Stern, 2006
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Quoted from dung:Shopping one out now. Make sure the ship works. A new ship motor is 180. The clutch, which was bad on mine, is 60. Check that the ship sails aren't broken, they are 20 dollars each. Check that the tortuga compass decal (spinning disc) isn't worn out. That is 40.
The plastic set is no longer available. Other's can chime in about other issues, but that is what i have seen so far.
Excellent. Thanks for the help.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from jgentry:Anyone know if the spinning compass decal is available any where? I just picked up a POTC and it's in really good shape otherwise.
Has anyone created custom sounds for this? I've heard it's possible but am a total noob in that arena. If it's been discussed please let me know. Thanks!
Quoted from rai:This is why I like PotC, it's quite simple you don't need to be a Ph.D. to understand the basic rules, beginners can jump right in, but it's long enough to keep good players occupied trying to complete the wizard modes.
Agreed. It's a great machine for all skills. Follow the modes or spam the ship/spinner/chest. Either way, its a dang good time.
Quoted from scottslash:Exactly! I tell folks LOTR and TSPP are like playing chess, and POTC is like checkers.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Taxman:Um, pretty sure its an 18" fluorescent tube.
Gotcha... so I guess it doesn't matter which style bulb I buy. I'll just load up on others for another pin.
I realized the mix-master you are referencing is the spinner disc. Is there anything specific to check or just that it works?
Thanks again!
For those that have the spit shield still installed. Does your ships sails hit/restrict it when it's trying to sink?
I haven't officially purchased it yet. The shield is still on it though. Tomorrow is my inspection (with the operator) but I went and played it a bit this afternoon and noticed the sails hitting the shield when the ship was trying to sink and the chest top not opening (although it made the sounds and acted normal, except for not opening). Hoping that's not a big issue. Going to go through the cool test tomorrow.
Thanks everyone, pretty excited. I now have my first question of what I'm sure will be many. If this should go in the tech forum, let me know, but I figured this would be a good place to start.
When my ship is trying to sink, the sails aren't going all the way down, and they are hitting the plastic (flat) near the bumpers. This is keeping the ship from going completely down, and I hear the motor continuing to try to do something. Also, weird thing is that the sails lay down completely when the ship is hit when they are supposed to (like the 3rd hit or so). So they lay down then, but don't completely lay down when it's trying to sink.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks for the comment. Figured it may be easier to just post a video than try to explain. Any help is appreciated!
Quoted from PeterG:There are a lot of things wrong with that ship. The movement 'rocking' and sails are not what it should be. I would take it all apart to see what is happening.
Quoted from pinworthy:Peter G makes a good point that the ship movements are off... Based on the video you might as well plan to do a full rebuild on it once it comes out and it will be good to go for a long time.
Quoted from Schwaggs:I also agree with Peter and pinworthy that your ship is not moving correctly. Replacement parts for the wear items in the ship is available at Pinball Life and Marcos.
Stomach drop... this was what I was afraid of. I don't mind the taking apart and rebuilding as I'm going to be doing a full tear down, clean, and wax, but the idea that the ship isn't operating correctly and needs to be rebuilt with new parts hits me in the gut as the motor alone costs approx. $200. Does it appear to be a high cost problem or maybe just a clean and wire check/solder from your experience?
Also, does anyone have a video of how the ship should move? And, since it may have been taken apart before, and put back together, does anyone have any pics of when they did a tear down that they could put on a CD and send to me (mainly of the ship, but if you have the whole game, that'd be even better)? I'd gladly paypal shipping.
Finally got it on there, required the removal of the spinner, main ramps, etc. Not too big of a deal.
I've yet to see a legitimate super duper skill shot (through the left treasure orbit then across the playfield and through the right treasure orbit), in real life or on video.
Quoted from John1210:Has anyone changed out flipper coils or anything to make their flippers stronger? My right flipper seems a little weak AMD the tortuga shot regular doesn't make it. Or do I just suck and it had to be a clean shot?
Check your EOS switch on your flipper assembly. When I first bought my Baywatch, I had a weak flipper as well (it uses the same coil as POTC). Everything "looked" fine so I thought it was a bad coil. I kept playing it, but got frustrated and I adjusted it anyways to make sure it was perfect. Made them very strong. I've since rebuilt the entire machine, including the flipper assembly, and now it feels like brand new. Coils very rarely get "old" and go bad. They are wire windings. And if they do, it's because of something like an EOS switch or transistor burning them up, so they usually aren't the problem in the first place. All that said to essentially say, check your EOS switch. 
Quoted from swampfire:Has anyone been tempted to build a complete collection of Pirate-themed DMDs? It's just POTC, Hook and Black Rose, to my knowledge.
No on purpose, but I'm forming an ocean/water theme with POTC and Baywatch. I'd like to add a WhiteWater to that list. Again, not tyring to keep a theme, but it seems inevitable. Now bring me that horizon.
A little help requested from fellow Pirates...
I'm in the process of tearing down and rebuilding my PotC. I've noticed that the backbox lighting has been spliced together with household wire nuts. I'm assuming this isn't how it came from Stern. Can someone tell me the connection to make from the cabinet to the backbox and then in what order/where each light is connected (I'm assuming they should be chained). Pictures would be even more superb. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from Starwriter:Buy or build your own LED light board and get rid of the fluorescent light.
Flipper Fidelity makes a really nice color changing light board.
I saw that as an option, but am currently into this machine more than I care to be. That said, I'd rather re-connect the Stern lighting in the manner it was designed.
1 week later
Hey everyone, I'm working on led'ing my machine. Can anyone tell me when the light that is attached to the back of the Kraken comes on? Is it during the battle the Kraken mode or...? Thanks for any help!
Is the ship supposed to sit up at a slight angle when at rest. I'm rebuilding mine and if I push it down (as if sunk) then bring it back up, it doesn't go all the way back to the stop screw. It has a certain "springy-ness" that will allow it to be pushed back to the screw but will not go back there to rest.
Here's a video...
Thanks for any help!
Quoted from pinworthy:Mine does not rest tight against that screw (1/4" ?) not as far back as yours and doesn't seem to have that "springiness" not sure what to suggest, sorry
image_(resized).jpg
Thanks for the comment and pic pinworthy. It feels like it's the resistance of the plates sandwiched together in the clutch. I'm hoping when I get everything back assembled the motor will take over and set it correctly. I think I will start it in the "ship sunk" position so it has to reset.
Quoted from swampfire:I wonder if POTC is the only game that's scored in 3/4 time. Everything else in my collection is in 4/4 time, mostly rock. Just another thing that makes POTC unique.
What does this mean?
Ha.. yeah, never would've noticed that. I was thinking it meant certain modes score 75% of the time. I was like, this does not sound like a good quality.
1 week later
All rubbers are correct and in place. I may have posted that prematurely. I think it had something to do with the slope of the floor in the garage (where I was rebuilding/restoring), since I've moved it into the house, no issue.
Curious, how many of you leave the spit shield on? I noticed while testing that there were a few air balls when it hits/glances a green target just right. I'm not worried about the ship so much as I am the curvy clear "Rum" ramp. Seems it could hit it pretty hard and the spit shield adds some stability to that ramp. I'd hate to crack it just because I didn't put the shield back on, but I just don't like the way it looks with it. As I haven't played it enough (just finished rebuilding/restoring a couple days ago), I was curious what those who've played a lot have to say.
Thanks for the comments everyone. I think I will leave it on for now in a "more safe than sorry" approach and if it ends up driving me nuts (a likely possibility), I'll take it off and dremel the plastic as others have mentioned.
Quoted from Crispin:I'm wondering if I'm putting undue stress on the motor in those 2 to 3 seconds the ship is trying to right itself with the ball stuck in between the playfield and ship.
I don't think you are damaging the motor. It sounds terrible when the motor is trying to move and can't but from my understanding, it's made to handle such situations and has a clutch. My machine was a routed one and the small "drop sails" coil had a broken wire so the sails would not drop when it was supposed to sink. I have a video showing it earlier in the thread. So the motor would try to bring the ship down, but the sails would stop it. When I was rebuilding, I had in the back of my mind that a new motor was going to be needed, but during the rebuild, it was in perfect shape. A simple cleaning with electrical parts cleaner from Autozone, and it was like brand new and functions perfect.
Ha... I should note that my ship works perfect now. New sails coil and the motor was perfect. I wouldn't suggest grinding the motor, just saying I don't think it's causing as much damage as it sounds.
Of note, you don't need to turn the game off to stop the motor, just open the coin door. So if you are in the game of a lifetime and the ball gets stuck... open the coin door, remove the glass, place the stuck ball in the shooter lane, put the glass back on, and shut the coin door. Keep playing said game of lifetime. No need to waste it.
I will vouch for the ball getting stuck crew because I've only had mine for maybe 30 games and it's hit the shield twice and fell into the rum ramp.
Also, had the super duper skill shot twice in one game.
I'm sure this has been discussed at some point in the thread, but curious what everyone's points strategy is? I've seen the PAPA Qualifying video and it seems the Tortuga Multiball is the way to go. I'm heading to a tournament tomorrow, and PotC is in it, and would like to practice some things tonight. What are the steps you take if you are looking for big points?
Ha... nice summary swampfire!
And yep, that's the one. Me and another guy will be heading there on Saturday. I said tomorrow (but then realized that today sadly isn't Friday). Didn't know it was your tournament, excited to meet you and thanks for hosting!
Also, am I correct that your PotC used to be Visi0n's (from Mobile)? If so, I may need to call him and see if I can get any machine specific pointers. 
swampfire, thanks for the strategy. I'm working to learn it, but goodness, in the middle of a game, it's hard to remember what to do next. I'm getting around 40-50M, but that doesn't feel like it's going to cut it.
2 weeks later
The problem with putting anything on the flat plastic at the end of the rum ramp is that it will obstruct the view of the left outlane, making nudge saves more difficult.
2 weeks later
Thought I'd share my anti-air ball deflector creation. I just couldn't stand the sneeze guard, and didn't want modify any of the game's plastics. So I thought about it and then realized, "why not solve the root of the problem". So I decided to guard against an air ball where it is mainly caused, the green targets. This mod has been on for around a month with much play (including league), and I can say with certainty that there has not been a single air ball since, and virtually no chance of the ball getting behind the rum ramp. Hope y'all like it.
Quoted from Schwaggs:I had a ton of airballs off the green targets when I first got my POTC. All I needed to do was tighten down the target mounting brackets. They were lose allowing the target to lean back causing airballs on the bounce back.
Mine was just completely torn down and restored. There is nary a loose target. They are as tight as tight can be. I have a video of my wife playing where an airball happened (prior to my "mod"), I'll upload it if I can find it.
As for making them to sell, one, I very much appreciate the kind comments, so thank you. Two, I made that out of some spare plexi I had laying around, so let me run to the store and get some idea of cost and look into it. I'll post back here in the next couple days.
Quoted from swampfire:There's a lively discussion about ball times and game times over on the LOTR thread. Have you all done anything to make your games harder? I opened up my outlanes and increased the pitch, but POTC was still the bottleneck at my last tournament.
There's nothing inherently wrong with long games, but for a tournament it's better to keep things moving. I probably need to disable the ball save.
That's because you gave us advice on how to crush it.
Quoted from OilGuy:Maffewl, do you happen to have Superbands on your flippers? They seem to put an unnatural spin on the ball that causes air balls. I ended up taking mine off and it solved the problem.
Funny you should mention. I do have SuperBands on them (or the PinballLife equivilant). Have you had any issue with Titan rubber? Thinking about switching to that.
Quoted from simplykind:What's the going rate in the midwest for a minty HUO PoTC with receipt, no ware on PF or shooter lane, no mods, incandescent. Basically almost NIB I guess?
Without any mods, I'd say it's in the upper 4's to 5k range. If it had been improved any with ColorDMD, mirror blades, LEDs, Backbox lighting, etc... I'd add some value on top.
Edit: I'm speaking from what I've seen around here (the south).
2 weeks later
Quoted from JimB:The modded one's don't seem to get that much more than above quote.
Depends on the mods... If ColorDMD and mirrorblades don't fetch much more, I'd just remove/keep them.
Quoted from nicoga3000:Thanks for the info guys. My thoughts were right in line with what you guys said. The owner is wanting a few hundred more than I'm willing to pay considering it's bone stock and was routed at one point. I'll continue to keep my eyes peeled!
From what I'm seeing around here, these are getting tougher to find in great condition. I wouldn't care that it's bone stock or routed. From your original post, it shows no signs of wear which is most important.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Point being, I wouldn't be afraid of a routed POTC at a good price (south of $4k).
South of $4k for a machine without wear would be an excellent price. I've yet to see such an opportunity like this anywhere around here.
1 week later
Quoted from Schwaggs:The wave crashing DMD animation is when you earn bonus multipliers. There is a jackpot callout and basic animation.
This... one way to earn Jackpots is to reach the "E" in H-E-A-R-T from the Chest. Then collect at the flashing Pirate arrows.
1 week later
Hey Pinstonomy. I'll need to look into what it will cost me to create these. I apologize that I haven't done so yet, life gets in the way of fun sometimes.
1 month later
Hey everyone... per several requests I've received from fellow POTC owners, I'm looking into the costs of creating the "ball deflector plastic" I designed/built in post 691. Images of my prototype are in that post and below. Again, the idea behind this piece is to allow the removal of the stock spit-shield that surrounds the ship. As the green targets are the main culprit of causing air balls, this goal of this piece is to keep an air ball from happening at the source.
How many of you would be interested in purchasing one of these for a price of approx. $15?
Again, thanks for all your positive comments!
0b2aab4691d29a279c2abe92851c51437a9776ae_(resized).jpg
e0dd312096ab3b92d7863bc44dd8a98d420cdd38_(resized).jpg
Awesome, thanks guys. I'll get the ducks in a row and shoot everyone a PM.
I'm not wanting to de-rail the thread, so if you are interested in one and haven't already replied/sent me a PM, please PM me.
Thanks!
Hey everyone. Just an update on the Airball Deflectors. I had a full sheet laser cut today, and was hoping to start mailing the pieces tomorrow. However, there were a few issues that I ran into and will need to buy another sheet, and have it re-cut. As the place that I'm using for laser cutting isn't open on the weekends, it will have to wait until next week (assuming they have another sheet in stock). I apologize for any inconvenience and thank everyone for their interest.
Hey everyone. I just wanted to send an update that if you were interested in an Airball Deflector, you should have just received a PM from me. If you didn't receive a message, please feel free to PM me. Thanks again!
Just a note to those who send funds for an Airball Deflector over the weekend, you should have received a PM from me that they were mailed out this morning.
If anyone else is interested in one, please feel free to PM me. Thanks!
I just wanted to send a note to those that will be receiving their Airball Deflectors soon. There is a protective film on BOTH sides of the deflector. One side will be a slightly translucent white, and the other side will be clear. Remove both. Once these are removed, it should be nice, shiny, and transparent. Also, these were laser cut, so when you first look at the deflector, it will appear to have burn marks around the edges. No need to worry, these burn marks are only on the protective film and not the deflector itself. Also, similar to normal pinball plastics, do NOT over-tighten the screws when installing the deflector. Below is an image of the 2 screws that hold it in place (the screw at the right side of the Tortuga ramp, and the screw behind Jack the Monkey/near the Liars Dice scoop). I place the deflector on top of the existing PotC plastics. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. Thanks again, it's pretty exciting to see others put an idea I created for my own machine to use.
Hey everyone, in an effort to not hijack the thread, I've created a new thread in the marketplace for the Airball Deflectors.
For those of you who have received one of these, I would very much appreciate if you could post a pic and your thoughts for others to see.
Thanks again for all the kind remarks!
2 weeks later
Curious to those that have received/installed the airball deflector, how has it worked out for you now that maybe some of you have had time to play/test? I can only do so much testing with my personal machine and league, but we haven't had an airball since (and have noticed it do its job many times knocking the ball down back to the playfield). I would love to hear how it's worked out for everyone else. This is honestly not a shameless promotion 
, I really am hoping that everyone has been happy with their purchase.
I will take it from no responses that everyone is loving their deflector so much that there is a great renewed interest in their PotC without that hideous sneezeguard blocking their view, and they are too busy playing them to reply. 
On another note, thank you to everyone that purchased a deflector. I have officially sold out of round 1. That said, if anyone would still like one, please send me a message so that I can know if there is enough interest to do another round.
1 week later
Quoted from marmar:Hello everyone,
I got a POTC this afternoon was able to save it from just sitting collecting dust. Needs a good cleaning but it plays well. My wife is a big fan of the movies so this machine was on top of her list. I have to go through it but I noticed the sails on the ship are stuck and hitting the plastic not letting the ship sink all the way. Does anyone have any suggestions on the sails?
Check that the small ship sail solenoid is working with a multi-meter (located vertically at the back of the ship, reddish in color). The wire that wraps around for that coil is very fragile and breaks easily. I had the same issue when I purchased mine, and it was the wire that was broken.
Hey everyone, I just wanted to send a note that I have made more Airball Deflectors if anyone is interested. Thanks!
Quoted from michi:Sounds like a bad contact or broken wire somewhere. Most likely, as the bulbs warm up, heat expansion causes the circuit to be interrupted. The vibration from the flipper is enough to restore contact.
You could try some cold spray once the lights are off, to see if/where they come back on as you cool things down. I'd also go trough the circuit and manually prod/push things around once the lights are off. You might find a spot where you can cause them to come back on that way.
Michi.
I agree. Sounds like a bad contact somewhere.
Quoted from michi:Could you explain why not with Hear Multiball? I thought it wouldn't matter which multiball; the point of either is to take advantage of the ball saver. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Michi.
My guess is that Heart Multiball is much more difficult to reach and the K-E-Y resets on drains. I'd also venture to say (assuming others machines play similar to mine) that the ball being released from the chest is more drain prone slash difficult to gain control of.
Quoted from PeterG:I like your Kraken, where did you get that?
Super pumped about the new addition to my PotC. This is the treasure chest made by Lermods. It looks freakin' sweet. Well built, easy to install, and all cords are hidden (as seen in the photos). I'm a happy customer. Thanks Lermods!
Edit: For those that are interested in this mod, the pictures really don't do it justice. It has little "crystals" in it that reflect the light and glitter really well. It definitely grabs your attention.
Lermod Treasure Chest 0 (resized).JPG
Lermod Treasure Chest 1 (resized).JPG
Lermod Treasure Chest Install (resized).JPG
4 weeks later
Quoted from Radius118:I must be missing something simple here. I have a TOPS display on my POTC. I had a house tournament running for a while and then the tournament ended. I turned off tournament (at least I think I did) but for some reason the tournament results keep coming up on the DMD during attract mode. How can I get rid of that? Is there some setting or reset I am missing? I suppose a factory reset would do it but I didn't want to take such drastic action if it wasn't necessary.
Thanks,
Michael
I may be off, but I think tournament mode in the menu just changes the "randomness" of certain rewards into a pattern. An example being the Liars Dice gives a predictable outcome and not a random reward. However, there is a tournament that you can set up to run from X date to X date, and it will log the results. It's been a while since I've messed with those settings but I'm pretty sure you just need to go into the actual tournament menu and cancel/end the tournament as the dates inserted are probably still valid. This is separate from "tournament mode" in the settings.
I have the treasure chest in my machine and it looks awesome. The coins have little reflective glitter like jewels in them so pictures really don't do it justice. It has a ton of "sparkle" on its own. The rgb's look great, and I agree, maybe a white/yellow flicker would look great as well.
1 week later
Quoted from beepnutz:On another note, I must be the only one that never had air balls on this machine.
Quoted from yzfguy:I have never had an airball either and took the sneezeguard off years ago.
From what I've seen, you two are the exception to the rule. I took a video of my wife playing (before I had created the deflector), and she had a mild one fly up and land in the rum ramp. I'd be happy to post it if you'd like to see how they typically happen. I've definitely seen worse, one that smacked the sneezeguard pretty hard. Without something there would have easily broken a sail. As mentioned, this was before I installed the deflector.
Quoted from badbilly27:Need to search back in thread on this plastic protector too. I still have my sneeze guard since day I opened the box.
Nice work guys
Thanks, and if you'd like more information on the deflector, I started a thread located here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maffewls-potc-airball-deflector-for-sneezeguard-removal
You can also go back a few pages on this thread to see how it started.
Of note, I've ran out of my current batch of deflectors, but will go Tuesday to have more cut. So I should have some available then.
Thanks everyone!
Quoted from Radius118:POTC used all white incandescent GI for the entire game from the factory.
This. Of note, the compass lights and key lights on the backboard were red and green incadescents respectively.
1 week later
Quoted from zacaj:So, I've got the game running now, put maybe 100 plays on it. I disassembled and cleaned the ship mech while u was rebuilding the playfield. When I first played, the ship would rock side to side after enough hits, like it was on the waves, and now it rocks up really high, enough that i swear I could shoot a ball under. Anyone had this happen on theirs before I go taking the whole ship out to examine?
Check to make sure that when the ship is at rest, as if the machine had just been turned on, that the armature to the ship is against/near the set screw. See posts 572/577 of this thread for a pic. My guess is that the armature is a little too far forward at rest.
2 weeks later
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:I am not an LED expert by any means, so I was wondering how POTC does with them? Does it need an LED OCD? Thanks
There are definitely inserts that need "non-ghosting" leds. A LED-OCD board isn't necessarily required, but PotC does have ghosting issues with standard leds. At a minimum, I would get non-ghosting for the compass lights. The others will still ghost/flicker, but may not be noticeable enough for you to care/justify the added expense.
2 weeks later
Quoted from PeterG:I have only the final score. Once you got four winds and the ball drains the compass is reset and you can start all over again....
I do like the incandescent warm light, and agree that it fits this game well. That said, I very much enjoy how mine turned out after led'ing it.
I actually have a video of my wife playing and a miniature airball happening before I created the airball deflector (the ball landed in the rum ramp). Of course, after I created/installed the deflector, no more airballs, and even better, no more hunk of plastic blocking the view of the ship. I'll post the video when I get a chance. They are typically caused by ricochets/rebounds around the green targets and metal guide rails. This is why Stern made that huge hunk of plastic to go around the ship and other toys - to protect them. Especially the sails as they are fragile. I would also venture to say that air balls landing in the rum ramp aren't good for that plastic either as that is a thin unsupported part of the run.
Here's the video. The airball happens around the 35-36 second mark. You can hear my wife react by saying "oh". This was taken right after I had shopped the machine and obviously had not yet created/installed the deflector as the big plastic can be seen. Sorry for the quality. It was taken on an old iPhone and compressed.
Quoted from zacaj:I took it out immediately and haven't had a single airball in 200+ games
Sounds like it's working for you. I personally wouldn't want to risk it for the one time it does happen and something breaks, but to each their own.
Reminds me of my nieces who don't put cases on their brand new iPhones because they "never drop them". And I honestly mean no offense by that. I cringe thinking of it, just the way my mind works I guess.
Quoted from tbanthony:The big shield never bothered me, but I always thought it would be cool to put a decal on it that had ocean waves on it -- like showing the ship at sea.
Sounds like a cool idea. If you do it, post some pics!
Quoted from zacaj:With the help of some new white rubbers and an extra ball I finally defeated Davy Jones and made it to four winds. Not sure how it actually works as I didn't have a chance to look at the display during it, but I made it almost through the third set of arrows before draining. Everything seemed sorta barren after that so I shrugged and figured I'd just play for jackpots since I could relocate the 2mil now. Those multiballs get really hard to start! Think it took 10 shots to light Tortuga.. :/ Somehow managed to make it to the point of destroying Davy Jones's sails a second time before draining. Game gets easier once all the stress is gone.
These optos can be a little touchy. Typically they just need to be re-soldered on the back side. I had an issue where my chest optos were flaking out. Removed them, and found the connection was weak on the back side. Re-soldered and good to go.
Have you tried moving the optos around? I.e., place the ship optos in the chest position and vice versa? That would probably be a pain but would help narrow down some of the issue as to whether it was an opto problem, or an opto board/board problem.
1 week later
Quoted from marmar:I was looking at something last night on my POTC and I was noticing the Optos connected for the spinning compass and Tortuga ramp. Since I'm still learning to trouble shoot issues on pins I wonder if the optos are taken out of the plastics would they cause the readings for that section not to work correctly if they are not attached on the same spot.
Common sense says yes but I wanted to ask to be sure. I am labeling everything anyways for before and after assembly.
Not sure if this is what you are asking, but the optos can be switched to either side. Each one does not have to go on a certain side of the ramp. You can also switch which input they are plugged into, it will just change which is the omitter and which is the receiver. Essentially, as long as you have one giving light, and one receiving, it should work. There is nothing special about each opto, they can be put in any other opto spot on the machine.
1 week later
My guess is that your friend's may be slightly off level. Usually the ball that returns (after being caught) from the ship goes to my right flipper. I noticed that when I moved some of my machines around this changed. I was wondering why because I only moved PotC down 1 spot in the pinball line, but it was enough to oh so slightly move the bubble. That led to the ball being returned to the bottom of the sling. It wasn't much of an off-level either, very small, but it was enough to change the balls trajectory. Of course, when I re-leveled, back to the flipper it came.
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:A Pinsider with some free time - that is rare?!
Ha. I bet you read that in a Kenny Loggins voice along the lines of...
Gonna take you riiiiight in-tooo tha daynja bounce.
3 weeks later
Just a bump to say that I have a few airball deflectors (for sneezeguard removal) left. Please PM me if interested. More info can be found at my topic here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maffewls-potc-airball-deflector-for-sneezeguard-removal
1 month later
Quoted from Koos:Can you share some details about the LED's you used. This one looks tasteful and I mostly hate LED jobs on POTC.
I see some colored inserts? Also curious about which brightness. It's doesn't seem overly bright which a like with a theme like POTC.
Thanks!
I'd be happy to share. Thanks for the kind words!
Quoted from Koos:Thanks for the effort of making this video by the way!
So sunlight white is warmer then warm white?
Sunlight is a little more "white" than warm white. Warm white is a little "yellower".
3 weeks later
I had the same issue with the small sails solenoid. I ended up re-soldering the wires to the leads. Mine ended up having an, oh so slightly, broken wire that would be connected most of the time, but become disconnected during a game. My suggestion would definitely be to re-solder the wires to the leads of the small solenoid while you have it apart. I have had 0 issues since. Note, it is a super pain to re-solder these as the wires are so tiny, but you will be happy you did.
You may also want to test the wires leading up to the small solenoid as they get bent up and may have become broken inside the sleeve. When I re-soldered mine, I used new wires so I didn't have to worry about it.
I can't remember if when the ball is drained, if it says "Tortuga" or not. If so, it sounds like it thinks the other ball was drained. You may want to check your ball trough switches. Does anything else seem out of the ordinary during play?
I would think that if it was the mix master opto, it would think you locked another ball, and put another one in the shooter lane. With it announcing "Tortuga" before another ball is locked, that leads me to think that either the machine thinks the other ball drained, or the lock time ran out.
Which is the other possible issue. It thinks the time ran out. I agree with Schwaggs to look and see what the timer does. That would at least allow you to narrow a few things down.
1 week later
Quoted from beepnutz:I've owned this game, sneeze guard off day one, less a couple years, since 2006 and have never had one airball, played daily. Just sayin.
Quoted from yzfguy:Ditto.
I had several airballs right after I shopped mine, which is what led me to creating the airball deflector. I was able to get a video of one (accidentally) which I posted in this thread at 1019 - link below - prior to creating the deflector. It was obviously something that Stern was concerned about too, otherwise they wouldn't have ever created the sneezeguard. The deflector isn't for everyone, but I'm happy it's been able to help out those that needed it.
Video of airball post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dead-men-tell-no-talespotc-owners-club/page/21#post-3584417
Quoted from michi:I used to get the exact same airball all the time. Occasionally, the ball would land on top of the plastic behind the rum ramp (near the spotlight) and the only way to free the ball was to remove the glass.
Since installing your protector, I haven't had a single airball in hundreds of games.
I must say, it's a pretty cool feeling to know that these things that I made are now on machines all over the world.
3 weeks later
Quoted from OTRChief:If you converted to LEDs what color General Illumination did you use? Warm White? Cool White? Blue? Green? I plan to use Tilt Graphics Game Blades. Thanks for your help.
I used Comet sunlight white frosted twin smd's for most of my GI. In a few select places, I used the same led in cyan, and blue. I tried to keep those to a minimum though. There's a video of my machine at the link below for reference.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dead-men-tell-no-talespotc-owners-club/page/21#post-3584417
1 month later
Quoted from jbug:just joined Pinside. I post on rec.games pinball also. Picked up a POTC this past Saturday. It was in like new condition with the goodie bag still stapled in. Like some one else here stated, I promptly ordered mods including a color DMD. I have one on my Road Show. Is the air ball protector (maffewl's airball protector) still available? Only negative thus far is the cheap art work printing on the plastic. Has anyone did a mod on those?
Welcome to the club jbug. I do still have a few airball deflectors. I'll shoot you a PM for more info.
Quoted from jbug:Thanks much. I haven't had any air balls yet but any reductions in reflections are welcomed. One other thing: I only had one Stern machine in the past (NIB Ripley's Believe It or Not) but that was a while back. I have the playfield up and resting on the front of the machine. I can't seem to get to go back down in the play position. I don't want to force any thing so I wanted to get advice. Thanks. By the way, I've read this entire thread and really like how pleasant and helpful the post are here. A very friendly atmosphere. That was enough in itself to make me join Pinside.
Not sure which position you have the playfield in, but there is a notch that keeps the playfield from sliding back when it's lifted and resting. To get it to go back into the playing position, you have to slightly lift up on the back of the playfield, and slide back at the same time to get past that notch.
Quoted from jbug:Treasure Chest:
Is there way to light up the heart and treasures separately? I saw the mod with the color changing LED but I'd like the heart to remain red at all times and the gold and other items to remain a steady color also. Those tiny LED lights there are pretty weak looking and does nothing. A mod with an animated (pulsing) heart and well lite would be even better. I thought I saw (some years ago) a nice mod for the lights but I may be wrong.
jbug, I made a video (posted below) for you that may be helpful. I removed the plastic "heart/coin" piece of the chest and lightly sprayed the underside with white spray paint. This allows the led lights to diffuse more across the heart, and allows the letters to be much more readable. I also have a red led strip under the chest that is tied into the same wiring, this is the red glow that flashes with the heart. The second chest in the video (on the upper playfield) is a mod that can be purchased from user Lermods . The video doesn't do it justice, it has a lot of shimmer/glitter that looks really nice.
The video isn't the best quality as I left the glass on and am using a phone, but should help with the idea.
Quoted from viper001:Hey guys, long time lurker on this thread, first time poster as I just got a POTC in that I'm working on shopping out now. When it came to me the ship was essentially stuck in the upright position and will only move slightly back and forth, but will not do whatever is does that causes it to up-end and go down into the playfield. As a result I'm have a heck of a time getting the assembly out of the game so I can work on it. Any ideas? Do you think I would have luck taking the ship itself apart? Luckily for me the previous owner had disconnected the motor on it so I'm hoping once I get it freed that the motor and gearbox will still be OK, but I guess i will have to see.
Also on a somewhat related note what is the trick to removing the spinning disk thing as well as the ramp that feeds it? I have the main giant ramp off and the sneeze guard (which won't be going back on) but neither of these items looked intuitive as to how they come off.
TIA!
Kyle
Are you able to take a video of what it's doing?
Quoted from jbug:I am getting weak plunges so I replaced the green spring with another but problem is still there. Plunges do one of 3 things:
Go all the way up top
Come back to the plunger
Go far enough reach the short return ramp to the right flipper.
Also the same problem with the auto plunger. I'm going to change the rubber tip to see if that helps. the manual plunger. Any tips on this?
Check to make sure the plunger and the auto-plunger are not rubbing on each other.
Quoted from jbug:Will do and thanks. I also have an opto question. For the pair, is one sending and one receiving and is either interchangeable or makes no difference which one is doing either?
One side sends, and the other receives. If I remember correctly, they are the same part, and what makes the difference is how they are plugged in to the board under the playfield. I.e., either one can receive, or send. It just depends on which it's told to do by the board.
2 weeks later
Quoted from beelzeboob:Wait until after next week when JJP unveils the new POTC. I wouldn't be surprised if there are a few for sale after that, and you can probably find a bargain.
Why?
I get the wait and see what the JJP PotC has to offer part, but don't understand how this correlates to people selling their Stern PotCs at a bargain.
1 week later
That thought process makes zero sense to me. Unless it is a remake, it's a completely different pinball machine, with completely different gameplay. Theme is the only similarity.
I guess it works for some, and being that some people do sell on theme alone, I hope tonight's JJP release is Guns 'N Roses reunited. Maybe I can get a DE one on the cheap from the theme hoppers. 
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:Problem still happening. I changed the opto board and both optos with new ones. No success.
As soon as the ball go into the plunger lane, by pushing the flippers or the ball going in the pops, the ship takes a hit until it sinks and Kraken is defeated.
Is there a way to adjust optos sensibility?
It definitely sounds like a vibration issue triggering the switch. If you bang on the side of the machine with your hand, does this cause the ship to register a hit?
Quoted from rai:Anyone getting a JJPOTC?
I see it has a ton of support on the forum, but I don't get it from looking at the videos. That's weird for me because I really like JJP pins. This one just seems "meh". I especially don't like that there aren't any Jack Sparrow call-outs. Just Gibbs. Doesn't do it for me.
Also, may want to reinforce the gate that drops into the right inlane. This area is notorious for cracking from repeated impacts.
Quoted from michi:Any suggestions for how to actually do that? I don't have any cracks yet, but I'd like to make sure that I won't get any in the future.
No idea. I'd have to take mine apart to study possible remedies. Mine is currently unprotected as well.
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:We really need to figure out something about the chest's heart. It's so badly lighted that it doesn't even look like a heart. Samething for the letters.
I spoke with Dave from the Mod couple hoping they will add this mod to their next projects!
This feature need a better Wow factor!
Quoted from Soulrider911:cheese_wizardpq I could not agree more, i have been trying to figure out a way to open up the letters more some how
Lightly paint the underside of the plastic with white. Works brilliantly.
I posted a poorly made video of mine a few pages back, but here's the link:
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:WoW. YOU are brilliant!
What kind of paint did you use?
Quoted from Soulrider911:Dude maffewl awesome makes total sense to create more light bounce! I'm on it
Just regular ole white spray paint. I did it very lightly, then checked to see if I liked it. Only needed a few very light coats. It's easy to do too much, spray from a distance.
Quoted from PeterG:Best way to start a game of pirates....
» YouTube video
How do you go about doing this?
1 week later
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:Subtle change to Back Alley creation canons. Flickering lights in them. I'm on a roll. Next; the ship and Kraken
Those look sweet! I use the Scared Stiff boney flippers.
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:Which it is?
Their is a file line between not enough and too much..
I would say it's the best mod made for PotC... but I may be a little biased.
1 month later
Quoted from Tjohejsan:Just bought My potc
Really nice condition. No wear at all.
The only thing is that the fluorescent light not working in the backboxen.
What should i look for?
I dont now much about Stern games
Replace the fluorescent light with a led backbox dimming kit from @arcadeupkeep.
1 month later
2 months later
I have sunlight white (Comet) in mine. I am a big fan of these. Warm white would look really good as well. I would avoid the natural/blue white at all costs.
1 month later
3 weeks later
Quoted from jbug:Let us know how that goes as I'm still having that problem. On another note, here is an opto question. At the start of most games, when the ball is delivered to the shooting lane, it triggers an opto and rings up the score. During games I'm getting that repeated sound along with the score racing also. I took a look at the manual and confirmed that the lights in the opto of the shooter lane are as they should be (round circles). So what else would cause that? I know this game has opto problems and I thought I had this fixed once upon a time.
It's likely another opto/switch. A ball in the shooter lane shouldn't be scored, so that is unlikely the bad opto. Here would be my first few attempts at narrowing the problem. Bring up the switch test and drop a ball into the shooter lane/smack the side of the machine to rattle it. See if any switches close. If one closes, you've found your bad opto/switch. If that doesn't work, remove the glass and try to trigger each opto/switch using a ball by hand. Pay attention to the sound made and the score registered. Use this to help narrow which it could be.
1 week later
Quoted from hawknole:Need some assistance, I am seeing that the pop up post when I hit the ship does not always go down by itself. On occasion, maybe 25-33% of the time the post stays up and the ball stays there until I hit a flipper switch. Is this common for the game? If I don't hit the flipper switch and let the game just sit there then the switches cycle due to inactivity, so it seems unnatural. The opto in front of the ship registers every time so it does not seem like an opto issue. I just put a new post sleeve on as well, thinking that may be the issue. I am running V6.0 config. Any help would be appreciated.
It's likely slightly rubbing the playfield and the spring isn't strong enough to pull it back down. This is quite common. To test, activate the ship, wait for the post, then turn the machine off. If it stays, it's the minute amount of friction between the post and the playfield holding it in place. When you add any small amount of bump/shock (such as slapping the side of the game, or even activating a flipper), it wiggles free and drops.
This, to me, is like having an Attack from Mars and a Revenge from Mars. They may be the same theme but are not comparable in much any other way. Using the DE vs Stern Star Wars analogy, those games still technically feel similar as they were the same manufacturer (and yes, I realize Pinball 2000 is a Bally/Williams game - but the point is that the game feels much different). To that end, JJP pinballs feel much different than Stern. Not saying one is better than the other, but anyone can clearly tell they were made by different people. However, if the question was "should I keep Eight Ball Deluxe or sell to buy a Sharkey's Shootout", I could kind of understand as they share a billiard theme and are extremely similar being based on a similar layout.
1 month later
Quoted from IceMaster:Picked up an HUO Pirates a few weeks ago and did a full shop and added the airball protecter. My intention was to trade or sell it right away but I’m really liking it. My first game was a Black Rose and this feels like a more modern version. Does anybody else have wear in their shooter lane?
[quoted image]
We have a very similar lineup IceMaster... you have great taste!
Quoted from rai:See if you can find an air ball protector if you don’t have already.
Shamless plug.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maffewls-potc-airball-deflector-for-sneezeguard-removal
2 months later
Quoted from Pinkitten:Ahhhh. I was pretty sure it was Tortuga. The paper decal is slowly breaking down? If that happened to you then I’m convinced. I just can’t believe a pop bumper would shed that much plastic by rubbing on something. But I can’t say that’s not it, not yet. I will get under the Tortuga plastic and replace the decal at least. That my end it. I will check the pops too. One may be misaligned and rubbing. At least gameplay is fine, just annoying to shovel snow every other game.
Maybe take the glass off and clean the playfield. Then throw the ball up into Tortuga a few times to see if it is causing the flurries.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Ok, so I have cleaned the playfield and balls several times and I checked the Tortuga compass sticker and that’s not it. It has a clear sticker over the decal to protect it. The “snow” on the playfield is definitely white. I’m leaning toward the pop bumper rubbing against something. Not sure tho. So weird. I clean it, play once and it snows. I’m baffled. There isn’t a high enough concentration of flakes in one area to give it away. I’ll keep working on it. Game plays great tho! I almost finished the compass recently.
I'd take the glass off and clean it. Then, throw the ball in various areas (isolated each time) to figure out where it could be coming from.
3 months later
I'm on the green train as well. You can see an image of it in my For Sale/Trade thread linked below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-trade-pirates-of-the-caribbean
Quoted from TomT:If they were available I think color changers that were just blue and green would look great.
Agreed. Blue looks great on the ship as well, but it hides some of it's details.
3 months later
Quoted from rai:Have you guys been able to backhand the Jack ramp? I can do it now and then, last time was immediately after the hurry up started.
I can do it on occasion. It's not the easiest shot, but it is possible.
1 week later
Quoted from toasterman04:i bought a new decal from Marco and installed it (without Mylar), and after under 100 games the decal wore right thru to the spinner and made a complete mess of the game. took me hours to strip the top end and clean it all out.
Got another decal and put mylar over it.
Not sure if your supposed to put mylar over it? I dont recall it having mylar on it originally nor see anything about it in the manual.
That's interesting. I sold my POTC yesterday, but I replaced the spinner decal at least a year ago and it still looked brand new when I sold it.
Quoted from arcademojo:So true! I've wanted one for years. Very fun game with lots of rewarding shots and a lot going on. Don;t for get to get the airball protector.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/maffewls-potc-airball-deflector-for-sneezeguard-removal
Just put one on mine. looks so much better then the sneeze guard. I put one on my friends game last year and know first hand they work great.[quoted image]
Many thanks for the recommendation arcademojo!
2 weeks later
There's a gate behind the chest. It should keep the ball from rolling back out. There could be times when the ball beats the gate and comes back out, but that should not be the norm.
7 months later
Quoted from jdemarti:Not sure how active this group is anymore, but hopefully someone will see my post that has knowledge of my issue. I think I am having trouble with the Ship pin lane lock. When I start a new game and the ball hits the ship, the ship pin extends, holding the ball in place. I have to hit a flipper in order for the pin to recess back into the playfield. if I don't hit the flipper the ball just sits there. After I sink the ship the first time the issue clears up for the rest of the game. From what I am seeing on YouTube I notice some machines have this issue and some do not. I'm running the latest code. Any ideas on what's happening? Is this a normal thing for this game? Thank you.
I agree with the posters above. I can almost guarantee that the issue is due to the ball causing the post to “lean” against the playfield and the friction is not allowing the post to drop. Easiest test out there without even opening the machine is to hit the ship, activate the post, then turn the machine off (while the post is up). If the post remains up, that’s your problem. It’s definitely not an electrical (or game) issue.
Quoted from jamex:Finally my fourth and last pinball has arrived, deco fix right pinball, weak slinghost and the neon is missing but play well and I'm super happy[quoted image]
Congrats. Regarding your backbox tube, you can always upgrade to a dimming kit by @arcadeupkeep. Worth every penny.
3 weeks later
Quoted from jamex:Tonight on TV in Italy[quoted image]
What do you say to 3 shillings, and we forget the name?
1 month later
Quoted from jamex:When you open the tresure chrest it is bad to see those 2 red dots that light up, it doesn't even seem like a heart, is there a mod that makes the whole heart light up? Or a method to modify the existing heart? Thanks
As mentioned above, remove the plastic and spray the bottom with a light coat of white.
1 month later
Quoted from PotcSternSwe:After I hit the ball up to the Tortuga spinning disc it comes down the left loop and goes straight down the middle every time. I have checked that the game is level. Any idea what is wrong? I think the ball should come down and hit the left slingshot, or?
You can try adjusting the ball guide. I’ve used a small piece of thin adhesive backed foam (from a hobby store such as that in the link below) at the end of the guide as well. That always works without the need to remove any screws.
3 weeks later
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:Question on the treasure chest shot. I'm getting a lot of rejects from the left flipper where they go up the fall back down. Just wondering if that is normal or if there is an adjustment I need to make. Seems like it takes a really clean shot and it looks like it's similar to the liars dice shot which we don't get rejects like that. Backhands from the right flipper seems to be the safest.
There is a gate on the backside that traps the ball from coming back out. Sometimes when you hit a clean shot, it will bounce off the up-post and come back before the gate can stop it. All of this is visible with the glass off. I’d take a look behind the chest to make sure the gate is working like it should. If all is good then you are either a.) hitting clean shots that bounce back too fast, or b.) rattling out before it makes it to the gate.
3 months later
Airballs are definitely not something that all PotC's experience. However, I have personally seen balls that fly behind the ship (which is why I created the deflector because it was on my machine). It's also an issue that Stern was clearly aware of or else they would have never installed the sneeze guard. They definitely did not do that for giggles. At least I hope they wouldn't have such a sick sense of humor to install that hunk of nastiness.
That said, I'm not trying to sell anyone on the idea of having an airball deflector. They definitely work, and even if it only gives you peace of mind, great. If you don't want one, no problem, you may never see a PotC airball in your life and all is good with the world (well kinda, minus the whole year of 2020 thing...).
1 month later
Quoted from huwman:I'm pretty late to the party, but am loving my recent purchase of POTC. I've already ordered an airball deflector from this thread and installed some custom code!
One issue I'm having is that the compass light for 'all pirates completed' turns on very early in the game (usually when I've hit the first ship a couple of times). It then stays on as if I've defeated all pirates, and allows me to collect the southern compass light (when I've also completed Port Royale). The individual pirate lights still work normally, so only turn on one by one when I have defeated the pirates). And I don't actually have to defeat all the pirates to be able to collect the southern compass.
Anybody had this issue or know what the problem might be? I'm running the version 6 code and have erased and tried different versions of it with no success. Thanks![quoted image]
I agree with marioparty34 in his question. I’d also look at the switches and also go into the switch test to see if there is an issue there. If no physical issue with the switches, next concern would be the code installed.
Quoted from LTG:Since you aren't good at electronics. Maybe consider an external power source. So you don't hurt your game.
LTG : )
Agree with this. If you want to have them coordinate with the GI, I’d recommend a relay to separate the LED circuit from the GI circuit and have the GI only be a trigger.
2 weeks later
Quoted from chuckwurt:Everything it’s clean. No wiggle room to move the post at all. Wondering if I’m missing something on the top side with the backside of the two way gate that is pushing the ball against the post when it’s up.
Sounds odd. Do you have a pic? I know there is an issue with the ball pressing against the post and causing the post to have just enough friction between it and the playfield hole to not drop. Easily fixed by centering the post to where it can’t touch the playfield. But, having a ball stick to the post is very odd.
That sounds like the common issue of the ball pressing the post against the hole in the playfield. Has your friend tested the post without the ball near it? I’d do that first. See if the post goes up and drops on its own with no ball. If it does then the ball is pushing the post into the playfield just enough to keep it from dropping.
Centering the post and/or adding a couple washers between the mech and playfield to angle it toward the ship should fix it. The issue is that the ball presses just enough to cause the post to lean against the playfield. It’s very minimal but small adjustments will take care of it.
2 months later
Quoted from KongDonkey:Does anyone have a sneeze guard that they would part with?
I think I just threw up a little bit. 
1 month later
Quoted from Looprunner:I cannot get my fluorescent light to work on the backbox. Can anyone recommend a good light kit for this game? I see some posted from a few years ago. I'm curious if there's any newer kits that really work well with this game.
ArcadeUpkeep’s dimming LED solution is my recommendation.
Quoted from Looprunner:Thanks! I did check them out after I saw the post from a few years ago. Looks good
It’s amazing. I’ve used them on all tube back box Sterns.
2 months later
Quoted from jedi42:Happy to join the club. I always add powered subwoofers to my modern games, wow what a difference on this one.
What difficulty settings do people generally use on this game? I have read it an be a bit on the easier side.
[quoted image]
Congrats! And depends on what you mean by easy. Let us know when you get to Four Winds Multiball.
6 months later
Quoted from jamex:Thank you very much, I will check the diameter better
My guess is that they are #6-32 or #8-32. I don’t have the machine anymore but that feels right. And 2-1/4 (2.25 inches) sounds right for the next size up.
Quoted from Grindhouse:I ordered the JJPOTC Devil’s Triangle mod from the mod couple out of curiosity to see if it would fit anywhere on the Stern. I added a green led strip inside but will need to hot glue it in place to make sure it stays. Connected it with a quick connect bulb under the plastic. Still need to add a bracket and post for the rear mount hole.
This is the best place I have found for it so far, but anyone think it would fit/look better elsewhere?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like it.
6 months later
Quoted from Markharris2000:Welcome to the club! Available mods if you have the urge to tweak it up....
ColorDMD (makes a huge difference)
HD Glass (luxury)
Rope Bridge and Jack the Monkey mod replaces sneeze guard (inexpensive, from Dystophic in Italy)
LEDs throughout EXCEPT backboard RED and GREEN bulbs (no GI or OC controller boards needed, takes an afternoon to install them all)
Wooden Speaker panel (Davy Jones or similiar, cointaker)
SpeakerLEDs (I set mine to slow rotation Red->Blue->Green) and polish the original brass/gold tone speaker grills
Steel washers to level top of coin door with cabinet (Takes about
Flipper Bat toppers (many to choose from, look at cointaker)
Standup Target decals (several to choose from)
Pinshaker (this is a $300 adventure and a bit more involved but adds a real sense of engagement)
Gold leg bolts & washers
Gold leg levelors
BackAlley's cannon shooter lane cover
Gold debloon coin shooter
Custom Apron cards (many available)
Lockdown bar decoration
Side Blades (Several available)
Plastic protector set (yellow/orange flourescent)
Call me silly but I believe the best mod for POTC is missing from this list…
And I do see a hunk of blocky plastic around that ship so…
1 month later
Quoted from Biju:A quick question to owners: what is your strategy for high scores on this game? Any "secrets" the average player doesn't know about? (Example: I heard somewhere there's a 15m skill shot but don't know what it is.)
My best guess is to get your Tortuga running, skillfully drain to get KEY rollovers and start doing one or both of the following: shoot the Chest for Heart MB or shoot the ship to sink it and start Kraken MB. During this time you will likely have lit max jackpots so shoot the center to do so as early into your MBs as possible.
Sound about right?
Super skill shot is going from the left flipper to the right mini orbit that then goes across the playfield and down through the left mini orbit. It’s not easy but also not unheard of when you get used to it. Max scores are created by setting up the 3 multi balls and max jackpots, then starting tortuga, heart, and ship.
Quoted from midcoastsurf:ahhh....I've been trying to do it backwards this whole time (only did it once - right flipper to left side, then across playfield to right side). Thanks for clarifying! Do you typically short plunge, then pass to the left flipper?
Whoops. It’s been a minute since I’ve owned this title. I think you are right that it goes left to right. It starts at whichever lane is flashing then has to go through that, across the playfield, and through the other side. Can’t remember if that’s left to right or vice versa.
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