Is this one of the most PITA games to rubber or no? I really don't want to take the entire ramp, and all the plastics under it... and then the other ramp, and spinner area out to replace all that rubber. Been there already on another example.. except trying to get to all the rubbers in the spinning disk area.

everyone knows this... we use the term 'rubber' not as a literal, but as a functional term.

No one says "hey, that slingshot silicon band is broken"

And no, replacing bands on all games is not a PITA... there are degrees of pain depending on how intertwined things are on a game or how much needs to really come offf.

I addressed this by putting silicon everywhere and I mylared all the areas at the top of the playfield that aren't reachable without taking out major mechs. The game also didn't have factory mylar in the pop bumper area.

The game has been staying very clean so far on location (compared to both modern sterns and older games with black rubber).

Ramp is really easy.. with the exception of fitting the tab in the backboard. That takes some fiddling. Just remove the connectors, and all the screws are pretty obvious. Just know the ramp is very floppy due to the long return legs. Make sure you support the long returns when handling it and keep them supported when storing flat.

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/2012

I don’t claim any artistic breakthrough just went with blue in the lower, red in tortuga, and black in hidden areas.

Beware doing all the posts in this game is a major pita. The post near the liars die saucer requires taking basically everything off to reach. Ship, ramp, etc. the chest was the only mech that didn’t need to be touched

Just slop from the wax job i think

I’m bad about reusing dirty rags way too much

Did you test it manually?

The relay is what flips the motor direction- just ground the relay input from the cpu (q27)and you are doing what the cpu would.

By using clips to simulate the motor on and motor reverse transistors you should be able to drive the motor manually at the relay’s inputs.

If your motor only runs one dir it has to be the q27 input to the relay or a stuck relay. You should be able to hear the relay through in a test mode or jumpering it.

Check for 20v at brown pin 8… then jumper pin 7 black-orange to grojnd and listen for click. If that works… you can turn the motor on by grounding pin 3 vio-green.

If you correctly replaced thd relay its going to br the connection between the driver and relay on the black-org wite or q27 is actually bad on the cpu.

Again should be easy to isolate by playing the role of ghe transistor and just grounding yhe pin.

Use the diagram in the manual on pg97 to help locate the right colors and pins.

It could be ad simple as bad wire path to the relays input

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To prevent ball traps

Game flickers badly without non-ghosting LEDs or OCD board. I prefer the OCD board as personal choice as I then keep cheaper common LEDs everywhere.

stern's solution was simply the most bullet proof brute force - where as newer concepts can accept a far greater risk because home owners can just stop without issue.

I will say the airball plastic has been successful for my game on location though.

No magnets

Yes people use the airball deflector plastic over the standups near the ship