Quoted from PeterG:Yes you can attach each to a GI light. Or put them in serie, will save you a few meters cable.
Very very thanks
Quoted from PeterG:Yes you can attach each to a GI light. Or put them in serie, will save you a few meters cable.
Very very thanks
Quoted from PeterG:You can always go back first to the original code V6, download it from Sterns page. So you know you have a clean version.
Then check the phantom hits. If they remain, it is in your game, do the check via the switch test. If it is over already then it is in the code. But hearing you on phantom hits on the ship, that seems more a bad opto thing. The opto's in this game seem to go bad. So a wiggle coudl already trigger a opto, hence ship hit.
Thanks - turns out the problem was that I'm an idiot! I thought that the 'all pirates completed' meant sinking all the ships, but it really means hitting the pirates targets til you get them all! So nothing wrong with any of the codes. Or with my machine. Just my brain!
Quoted from huwman:Thanks - turns out the problem was that I'm an idiot! I thought that the 'all pirates completed' meant sinking all the ships, but it really means hitting the pirates targets til you get them all! So nothing wrong with any of the codes. Or with my machine. Just my brain!
Nevermind, you're only huwman!
Stack multiballs.
Prepare the ship and tortuga but don't start them yet. The two together are good points but for max points get the key for the chest and open it.
Start tortuga and get it up to 4 balls. At this point you should have the bottom arrow lit for collection so get it collected. This will max all jackpots to 2 mil. Start the ship which will give you another ball if you have lost one. While taking out the ship throw a ball up into the chest to light all shots for jackpot. Collect then reshoot. Always keep a ball or two in tortuga to simplify the multiballs and have 2x playfield.
That's my goal usually but once you collect bottom arrow it's real important not to drain. The max jackpot goes away once all balls drain and going through the chest heart jackpots can be worth a lot.
Always combine the multiballs if you can. Its not easy but the tortuga 2x and 3x playfield really makes the scores rise.
That all said I've only pulled off the above twice for my gc of 220 mil. So adjust as needed but try to stack those multiballs.
Once you are out of the multiballs do it again until you get heart multiball or davy jones. Always try to take tortuga in and get that playfield multiplier going.
Quoted from gordonshumway:Can someone explain the easy way to get a good score?
Play better and don't drain.
LTG : )
Hey everyone! I just shopped out a POTC for a friend and delivered it this week. One thing I noticed was the rubber on the up down post in front of the ship sticks to the ball when it tries to drop.
Flipping the flippers drops the post and the ball releases but not sure what else to do to fix it.
Cleaned the whole mech and still have the issue.
Anyone have a fix?
I had the game for a weekend and beat the game a couple times and got around 200 million a few times.
I did that by getting the Max jackpot a tad ready, ship one shot away, timed locks lit.
Then just go after heart MB. Start that, then go after the max jackpots, ship and tortuga. I can get over 100 million from that stack alone sometimes. Then I just go back to trying to do that stack again. Make sure to get your extra balls along the way, and really concentrate on beating Davy Jones on the first attempt.
This way is not easy, but it’s the way to get a good base score with the fewest amount of shots.
Quoted from LTG:Plunger magnetized ?
LTG : )
The top of the post is covered in a rubber sleeve. When the coil turns off the post is stuck to the ball via friction.
Quoted from chuckwurt:The top of the post is covered in a rubber sleeve. When the coil turns off the post is stuck to the ball via friction.
Rubber doesn't normally stick to steel.
Something sticky on the rubber ?
Loosen and move bracket so ball doesn't push the rubber sleeve ?
LTG : )
Everything it’s clean. No wiggle room to move the post at all. Wondering if I’m missing something on the top side with the backside of the two way gate that is pushing the ball against the post when it’s up.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Everything it’s clean. No wiggle room to move the post at all. Wondering if I’m missing something on the top side with the backside of the two way gate that is pushing the ball against the post when it’s up.
Sounds odd. Do you have a pic? I know there is an issue with the ball pressing against the post and causing the post to have just enough friction between it and the playfield hole to not drop. Easily fixed by centering the post to where it can’t touch the playfield. But, having a ball stick to the post is very odd.
It’s at a friends house now. Just imagine the post holding the ball and the post doesn’t move when the coil shuts off. Haha.
I don’t think anything is sticky. Ball stuck to the post is a bad way of putting it. Ball is held by the post and when the post tries to drop it doesn’t because the ball is against it. The slightest vibration at all causes the post to drop.
Quoted from chuckwurt:The slightest vibration at all causes the post to drop.
Plunger missing it's spring ? Or end of spring binding plunger in coil sleeve ?
LTG : )
That sounds like the common issue of the ball pressing the post against the hole in the playfield. Has your friend tested the post without the ball near it? I’d do that first. See if the post goes up and drops on its own with no ball. If it does then the ball is pushing the post into the playfield just enough to keep it from dropping.
Quoted from LTG:Plunger missing it's spring ? Or end of spring binding plunger in coil sleeve ?
LTG : )
No to both. Like I said, cleaned completely and all the parts are there.
Quoted from maffewl:That sounds like the common issue of the ball pressing the post against the hole in the playfield. Has your friend tested the post without the ball near it? I’d do that first. See if the post goes up and drops on its own with no ball. If it does then the ball is pushing the post into the playfield just enough to keep it from dropping.
Yes. This is what’s happening. Sorry I didn’t do a good job of explaining it. How do I fix it? Post goes up and down freely in test with no ball there.
Centering the post and/or adding a couple washers between the mech and playfield to angle it toward the ship should fix it. The issue is that the ball presses just enough to cause the post to lean against the playfield. It’s very minimal but small adjustments will take care of it.
I’m going to try this next time I’m over there. It really only needs a mm of an adjustment to one side I believe to get this to drop every time. It doesn’t seem like there’s room for that, but maybe there is.
Thanks again!
Quoted from Tsunami:Just installed my LED dmd.
Thinking of buying one. What model did you get, what did it set you back? Do you think its worth it? How hard to install?
Colordmd LED was the only model available for POTC and it set me back $369 and shipping & tax total was $415.00.
It’s brighter and more colorful than the LCD that I have in my Tron. Also fits better than the LCD but also has less options than the LCD, 8bit, dots, tile.... both are great but I prefer the dot matrix. Easy install but you will have to remove the clear plastic front cover and use the small screws to the original board. I had to do this because I have the BackAlley panel.
I made my own topper buying a Disney Black Pearl ship that I found on EBay. I wired some flickering led’s from Evan Designsto make it look like the ship is on fire. I see they have a used ship on eBay for $149... I will look and see if I got some close up photos, if not I will take some and post them.
16D80455-250B-4764-B88C-98C969F9E657 (resized).jpegQuoted from jamex:Hi, are there any colorizations available for pin2dmd?
Colordmd.com shows it, version 4.1 - https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware_chroma.html
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Colordmd.com shows it, version 4.1 - https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware_chroma.html
LTG : )
There are for colordmd or pin2dmd?
Hello everyone. I joined the club back in early March with my first machine: a beautiful, HUO machine which looked (and still looks) virtually brand new (except the bottom of the ship hull is breaking). I didn't have much useful to say about it so you don't get to hear from me until now. Yeah, because I am having problems. But I will offer solutions and troubleshooting info, too.
The issue: About 6 months ago, the ship assembly started squealing when the ship was sinking. A couple weeks ago, it became unable to raise itself after getting down to one ball. It would start up an inch and fall back down.
The fix: I pulled the motor off to see what I could see. I found a small crack and smaller pinhole in the gearbox around the tail of a rivet and light blue fluid (presumably gear oil) trailing out of it. It had also pooled up under one of the fastener heads.
Smoking gun, right? I bought a new motor, put it in, nothing. Took it back apart, decided that the teflon washer belongs on top of the clutch and not on the bottom. The ship moved a LOT easier after that, but it would still not raise or lower. Looked closely at the motor while it struggled and it appeared to be spinning in the clutch. Took it out again and looked closer at the clutch itself. Decided to take it apart and...one of the screws was half a turn loose. Tightened that down and now it works like a champ.
Lessons learned (because I am a newbie at maintaining pinball machines and someone else on this thread is, too): It kept squealing and would not raise because every time it fell, it triggered the switch that told the machine it was sunk. So it would raise up and then sink again, which would trigger the sink switch and endlessly repeat. The teflon washer goes between the clutch and the gearbox! It pushes the clutch too high if you put it on the bottom and you can see this when you put it back together because the motor stand will rock back and forth slightly on the clutch.
Now I have an extra motor for the ship, though I didn't test it to see if it was also failing at the same time the clutch fastener was loosening up. If Pinball Life and others run out of this part, I might be convinced to test it and part with it for a desperate owner.
Now for a question: What have you tried on the ship to stop the damage? The about 2 inches along the bottom quarter inch have broken off and it is starting to fracture up the bow. I was thinking of cutting a couple small rubber sticky feet in half and sticking them to the exposed metal flange behind the ship to take the brunt of the hits. Any better ideas out there?
Thanks for reading!
Ammo: I too just bought a VERY nice unit. Like new. The ship is also cracked and splintered near the spot of intact from the balls. (horrible design - who thought of that?). While closing the deal, I looked everywhere for a new ship, low and behold, I found what was probably the last one on earth - in Germany. It was shipped November 25, but never arrived. My intention was to find a fabricator and see if they could be reproduced and then make them available to everyone. If it shows, I'll go down that road. If not, I guess someone can maybe reproduce from my old one. I just don't want to have the machine down.
Yeah, I was thinking of making a mold from mine now, before it breaks any more and keeping it until I can figure out what to do with it. In the short term, protecting it is my priority, but I was thinking that the rubber foot idea might cause the ball to rebound even faster than it already does. Maybe a bead of olive drab colored sealant would work. It isn't super noticeable yet. Don't want it to get worse. Maybe your hull will one day show up from Germany. Fingers crossed.
I'm not sure what happened. I have tracking info, but it is nowhere to be found. In the mean time, does anyone have any ideas "if" it shows, how we could have a batch made up?
Is there any recommended maintenance for the ship and sails? I have one of the earlier machines that didn't get enough lubrication for tortuga and I'll be going in to do the oil fix. It's making some pretty awful squealing but not locked up. The ship is also quite noisy when it is rocking and sinking so I was just wondering if there was anything recommended to do to that to help keep it running smooth.
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:Is there any recommended maintenance for the ship and sails? I have one of the earlier machines that didn't get enough lubrication for tortuga and I'll be going in to do the oil fix. It's making some pretty awful squealing but not locked up. The ship is also quite noisy when it is rocking and sinking so I was just wondering if there was anything recommended to do to that to help keep it running smooth.
There are quite a few pivot points in the ship mechanism that can have the dirt and old grease removed and light layer of fresh grease applied. Take LOTS of pictures as you take it apart for cleaning. The mechanism and routing of wires is complicated.
Not much to the tortuga spinner. Basically the disk mounted to a motor.
Have no found a Jack the monkey mod for my pinball, so i made one.
3d printed in resin + support in PETG that hold the microswitch and Jack.
Very easy installation
Quoted from jamex:Hi, are there any colorizations available for pin2dmd? After installing it on JP data east I'd like it for potc too
I am almost finished Pin2dmd colorization for POTC. Will let you know when it will be ready.
Quoted from vbobrusev:I am almost finished Pin2dmd colorization for POTC. Will let you know when it will be ready.
Very very thanks
Hi! i am finished Pirates of the Caribbean for pin2dmd. This is not a rom patching colorization - this is fully colorized game via pin2dmd editor. Who need files for real pinball - send me messages. Working on v4.02 or later.
Quoted from vbobrusev:Hi! i am finished Pirates of the Caribbean for pin2dmd. This is not a rom patching colorization - this is fully colorized game via pin2dmd editor. Who need files for real pinball - send me messages. Working on v4.02 or later.
Really cool! Planning to buy a pin2dmd if you share your file.
thanks
Quoted from RDReynolds:Sold my first POTC, regretted it and bought another a couple years later. My newer machine has significantly weaker flippers. It’s definitely playable, but it’s tough making the Tortuga shot for sure. Possible I had more powerful coils on the older machine?
More likely this game needs the flippers rebuilt.
Quoted from RDReynolds:It’s definitely playable, but it’s tough making the Tortuga shot for sure
Just bought a very nice POTC a few months ago. As part of the deal, the seller rebuilt the flippers. I too have some issues with flipper power and making Tortuga. Is there a "flipper strength" setting to boost the power like on a JJ machine. On my Hobbit I could set flipper strength.
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