(Topic ID: 105360)

PotC owners club: "Dead men tell no tales..."


By rai

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,343 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mattyk
  • Topic is favorited by 99 Pinsiders

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“Are you a Pirate?”

  • Arrg, I'm a Pirate 174 votes
    59%
  • I wish I were a Pirate 64 votes
    22%
  • I have no interest in Pirates 19 votes
    6%
  • I was a Pirate in the past but not at present. 37 votes
    13%

(294 votes)

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There are 2343 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 47.
#2301 23 days ago

Here is my game waiting for the customers to return.

LTG : )

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#2302 22 days ago

I installed the white baking paper in the heart and the speaker panel, I am very satisfied. Many thanks to you all That you recommended the solutions for the heart

#2303 22 days ago
Quoted from jamex:

I installed the white baking paper in the heart and the speaker panel, I am very satisfied. Many thanks to you all That you recommended the solutions for the heart

#2304 22 days ago

Thank you for helping me.

#2305 22 days ago

A strange thing happened to me just now, three times the compass disc is not activated despite throwing the ball at us, what can it be? Thanks

#2306 22 days ago

Just curious if anyone else’s game does this or if there’s some sort of solution to this problem.

The plunger hits the auto plunger and the ball doesn’t make it past the gate on the right rail. but if I shift the playfield to the right side of the cabinet it shoots the ball all the way up. The problem is that after almost every ball the play field shifts itself back to the center or left side and the problem happens again. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!

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#2307 21 days ago

I have the opposite problem, I have to move the playfield to the left to make the ball throw pull well, but once I move the playfield, It no longer moves

#2308 21 days ago

Is your plunger really straight? Not bended, happened to me once. Rotate the plunger to see if that helps. If so then the plunger is not straight anymore.

#2309 21 days ago

When you lift the playfield on either side of the cabinet you should have some metal brackets like in the picture. Make sure they are installed properly to center your playfield. The one this picture is a bit too low. The tang should be aligned with the playfield. I had to lower mine a bit due to lack of clearance with the mirror blades installed but I also have no plunger issues.

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#2310 21 days ago
Quoted from jamex:

A strange thing happened to me just now, three times the compass disc is not activated despite throwing the ball at us, what can it be? Thanks

The problem can be the opto card? It happened that the ship activates as if it were hit but the reality the ball was elsewhere

#2311 21 days ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

When you lift the playfield on either side of the cabinet you should have some metal brackets like in the picture. Make sure they are installed properly to center your playfield. The one this picture is a bit too low. The tang should be aligned with the playfield. I had to lower mine a bit due to lack of clearance with the mirror blades installed but I also have no plunger issues.
[quoted image]

So I have one of these clips on the left side of the playfield, can I just take it out and screw it on the right side? I don’t see any other piece on the right or even screw holes where it would have been. Thanks

Quoted from PeterG:

Is your plunger really straight? Not bended, happened to me once. Rotate the plunger to see if that helps. If so then the plunger is not straight anymore.

Yes I’ve twisted the plunger in every way and I still have this issue

#2312 21 days ago
Quoted from MightyRipples:

Just curious if anyone else’s game does this or if there’s some sort of solution to this problem.
The plunger hits the auto plunger and the ball doesn’t make it past the gate on the right rail. but if I shift the playfield to the right side of the cabinet it shoots the ball all the way up. The problem is that after almost every ball the play field shifts itself back to the center or left side and the problem happens again. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

The position of the shooter rod in the cabinet is adjustable. By loosening the 3 screws inside the cabinet that hold the shooter rod housing in place, you can shift the rod up, down, right and left. Be mindful not to scrape the decal on the front of the cabinet as you move the bracket. You want the shooter tip to engage the ball in the center as the ball rests in the shooter lane - vertically and left to right. If it doesn't strike the ball in the center, the shooter rod can push the ball sideways up the shooter lane preventing a full launch.

If the shooter rod is already engaging the ball in the center, you can bend the forks of the auto-launcher apart to make more room for the shooter rod. You will want to make sure that with the ball resting in the groove of the shooter lane that the two sides of the auto-launcher fork engage the ball at the same time. If it doesn't, the ball can be pushed sideways up the shooter lane preventing a full launch.

#2313 21 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The position of the shooter rod in the cabinet is adjustable. By loosening the 3 screws inside the cabinet that hold the shooter rod housing in place, you can shift the rod up, down, right and left. Be mindful not to scrape the decal on the front of the cabinet as you move the bracket. You want the shooter tip to engage the ball in the center as the ball rests in the shooter lane - vertically and left to right. If it doesn't strike the ball in the center, the shooter rod can push the ball sideways up the shooter lane preventing a full launch.
If the shooter rod is already engaging the ball in the center, you can bend the forks of the auto-launcher apart to make more room for the shooter rod. You will want to make sure that with the ball resting in the groove of the shooter lane that the two sides of the auto-launcher fork engage the ball at the same time. If it doesn't, the ball can be pushed sideways up the shooter lane preventing a full launch.

I will undo the screws and try to get it re-centered without touching the auto launcher. I thought they were in a tight non-adjustable placement, hence why moving the whole playfield seemed like a good idea haha

#2314 21 days ago
Quoted from MightyRipples:

So I have one of these clips on the left side of the playfield, can I just take it out and screw it on the right side? I don’t see any other piece on the right or even screw holes where it would have been. Thanks

For some reason on my machine the centering bracket for the right side is much deeper in the cabinet. Almost all the way back by the rail that supports the back of the playfield. Look for the right side bracket back there. It should have one. If not you can order and add one from a place like Marco. Most of my new Spike 2 based Sterns have both centering brackets toward the front of the cabinet.

#2315 21 days ago

If you ever converted an older machine to LEDs and are not a fan of the frantic poor fade lighting effects there is a solution that worked grea for me. It fixes the issues with the lighting fade cycles that are slow and work on incandescent lights but just make the LEDs blink fast and potentially invoke a seizure at times. It also solves any ghosting issues so no need for non ghosting lights. It actually works better with standard SMD lights. That helps offset a bit of the price.

I installed a LED OCD board on my POTC and it made the lights work just like incadecents but with the enhanced color and brightness of the 1SMD insert lights. It’s also cool you can program the board with your PC if you want to tweak the factory game specific logic. I almost like the default board setting on POTC more than the factory logic. The attract mode fading is a bit uninspired stock. I like slower fading if possible.

Attached a link to a video so you can see the difference. Focus on the orange lights on the compass in the center of the playfield as an example. You can see ghosting and lack of proper light fade.

No OCD LED board for the first 10 seconds and the last 10 seconds has the board installed and programmed for the games factory logic. If you are picky this board is great for making the LED conversion look fantastic.

https://vimeo.com/418474083

I have tried a bunch of ways to embed the video but none have worked. Most people say it works automatically but not for me even when trying some html with the link.

#2316 21 days ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

If you ever converted an older machine to LEDs and are not a fan of the frantic poor fade lighting effects there is a solution that worked grea for me. It fixes the issues with the lighting fade cycles that are slow and work on incandescent lights but just make the LEDs blink fast and potentially invoke a seizure at times. It also solves any ghosting issues so no need for non ghosting lights. It actually works better with standard SMD lights. That helps offset a bit of the price.
I installed a LED OCD board on my POTC and it made the lights work just like incadecents but with the enhanced color and brightness of the 1SMD insert lights. It’s also cool you can program the board with your PC if you want to tweak the factory game specific logic. I almost like the default board setting on POTC more than the factory logic. The attract mode fading is a bit uninspired stock. I like slower fading if possible.
Attached a link to a video so you can see the difference. Focus on the orange lights on the compass in the center of the playfield as an example. You can see ghosting and lack of proper light fade.
No OCD LED board for the first 10 seconds and the last 10 seconds has the board installed and programmed for the games factory logic. If you are picky this board is great for making the LED conversion look fantastic.
https://vimeo.com/418474083

I would also like the OCD LED Board for my POTC... But between shipping costs and customs costs I'm afraid that to have it here in Italy will really take too much money

#2317 21 days ago

I have a ocd board lying but affraid to start the upgrade.

#2318 21 days ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I have a ocd board lying but affraid to start the upgrade.

Why?

#2319 20 days ago

Do not knwo if the process of install is hard? I just have the board, no instructions, do not know exactly what to do?

#2320 20 days ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Do not knwo if the process of install is hard? I just have the board, no instructions, do not know exactly what to do?

Okay I understand, I'm also terrified if I try to do something about pinball machines without instructions. I thought there were contraindications in using that card.
Maybe the user who uses it can do an installation guide

#2321 20 days ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Do not knwo if the process of install is hard? I just have the board, no instructions, do not know exactly what to do?

Instructions are on the web site. First you do the hardware and then if you want you can program the board with the software linked at the bottom of this page.

http://ledocd.com/install_sam_r5.html

#2322 19 days ago

mahoneyj Thanks for posting the video of this.
"No OCD LED board for the first 10 seconds and the last 10 seconds has the board installed and programmed for the games factory logic. If you are picky this board is great for making the LED conversion look fantastic.
https://vimeo.com/418474083"

Everytime i played a Pirates of the Caribbean in the wild someone has gone full on led i think the blink/flash rate looks like hell in led's hence when i finally got my own game had no plans of putting in leds for this very reason. Have heard other pinsiders talk about the ocd board in other threads but never seen any actually video or in person use of the ocd board. Good to see you can actually get the proper look on and led job.

#2323 18 days ago
Quoted from cp1610:

mahoneyj Thanks for posting the video of this.
"No OCD LED board for the first 10 seconds and the last 10 seconds has the board installed and programmed for the games factory logic. If you are picky this board is great for making the LED conversion look fantastic.
https://vimeo.com/418474083"
Everytime i played a Pirates of the Caribbean in the wild someone has gone full on led i think the blink/flash rate looks like hell in led's hence when i finally got my own game had no plans of putting in leds for this very reason. Have heard other pinsiders talk about the ocd board in other threads but never seen any actually video or in person use of the ocd board. Good to see you can actually get the proper look on and led job.

Glad it helped. I have also been unhappy with a lot of LED jobs on older pins so I gave the board a try after researching and was happy it perform as expected. I may even go back to the default rate vs the factory fade ramp rates. The default has a slightly slower ramp up for the fade vs factory. It’s kinda cool you can play with that stuff.

#2324 17 days ago

Anyone else ever experienced this? About 40% of the time I hit the ship, when the pin holding the ball goes down, the ball comes out and hits the edge of the green piece of plastic (pirate target,) and the ball rolls, from there, directly in between the two flippers. Anyone have any ideas?

#2325 17 days ago
Quoted from Leosclam:

Anyone else ever experienced this? About 40% of the time I hit the ship, when the pin holding the ball goes down, the ball comes out and hits the edge of the green piece of plastic (pirate target,) and the ball rolls, from there, directly in between the two flippers. Anyone have any ideas?

Check your level, adjust it untill it does noet go STDM

#2326 17 days ago
Quoted from jamex:

I installed the white baking paper in the heart and the speaker panel, I am very satisfied. Many thanks to you all That you recommended the solutions for the heart

How do you remove the chest lid?

#2327 17 days ago
Quoted from PeterG:

Check your level, adjust it untill it does noet go STDM

Thank you so much. I adjusted it, and it helped, but it still happens. Has anyone else had this problem?

#2328 16 days ago
Quoted from rai:

How do you remove the chest lid?

Manually lift the lid of the chest, on the sides of the heart there are 6 screws (of which 2 hold the panel of the les below), remove those screws and the heart panel is free

#2329 16 days ago
Quoted from Leosclam:

Anyone else ever experienced this? About 40% of the time I hit the ship, when the pin holding the ball goes down, the ball comes out and hits the edge of the green piece of plastic (pirate target,) and the ball rolls, from there, directly in between the two flippers. Anyone have any ideas?

My pirate stand up leans pretty far to the right and returns the ball to the right flipper consistently. I would get under the playfield and see if you can adjust it to lean more right. Maybe even just carefully bend it a bit if needed.

#2330 15 days ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

My pirate stand up leans pretty far to the right and returns the ball to the right flipper consistently. I would get under the playfield and see if you can adjust it to lean more right. Maybe even just carefully bend it a bit if needed.

It worked! Now the ball always comes directly to the right flipper. Thanks so much!

#2331 14 days ago

Hey! As of semi-recently, the compass where you attack port royal is acting up on my machine. It keeps spinning at random times and awarding unearned points and balls. I read what someone else said to do, and it worked for a week or so but now it still happens. I originally went under the playfield and pushed in the white plastic pieces connected to the opti switch. Anyone have any other ideas?

#2332 14 days ago
Quoted from Leosclam:

Hey! As of semi-recently, the compass where you attack port royal is acting up on my machine. It keeps spinning at random times and awarding unearned points and balls. I read what someone else said to do, and it worked for a week or so but now it still happens. I originally went under the playfield and pushed in the white plastic pieces connected to the opti switch. Anyone have any other ideas?

Mike does that Same thing. And ideas would be great

#2333 14 days ago
Quoted from Leosclam:

As of semi-recently, the compass where you attack port royal is acting up on my machine. It keeps spinning at random times and awarding unearned points

Optos at the top of the ramp are flaky. Clean them. Reseat their connector. The small board the connector goes you, reflow the solder on everything on the board. When you put the connector back on, a dab of hot glue to keep it in place.

LTG : )

#2334 12 days ago

Anyone know what the number in the top left of the screen at the end of a game means? And the number it shows in the middle?

image (resized).jpg
#2335 11 days ago
Quoted from Leosclam:

Anyone know what the number in the top left of the screen at the end of a game means? And the number it shows in the middle?
[quoted image]

The top left is for Player #1 and the last 2 digits of your score. The large number in the middle is to see if you match for an award. Typically by default it would be for a "Credit" and receiving a free game. However, if you disabled that, then it's more for show with no reward.

#2336 8 days ago
Quoted from potc1334:

The top left is for Player #1 and the last 2 digits of your score. The large number in the middle is to see if you match for an award. Typically by default it would be for a "Credit" and receiving a free game. However, if you disabled that, then it's more for show with no reward.

Ohhhhh. Now I understand. Thanks!

#2337 8 days ago

Also, whenever a flipper flips on my machine, it makes a buzzing sound. The buzzing continues until you let go of the button. Is this normal?

#2338 8 days ago
Quoted from Leosclam:

Also, whenever a flipper flips on my machine, it makes a buzzing sound. The buzzing continues until you let go of the button. Is this normal?

Yes, it was brought up not too long ago. Mine has the same issue. I replaced the coil stops and it significantly decreased the buzzing sound. Replacing the coil stops or sanding them down should help.

#2339 7 days ago
Quoted from bigbadmiker:

Yes, it was brought up not too long ago. Mine has the same issue. I replaced the coil stops and it significantly decreased the buzzing sound. Replacing the coil stops or sanding them down should help.

Thanks! I’ll try that.

#2340 3 days ago

No extra ball in tournament mode?

#2341 1 day ago

Hi all, I really like this game and am in the market to own one. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. Adjusting leaf switches is all I’m good at at the moment.

Is this a reliable game for home use only? Is there any issue that comes up more often than others? I’ve read the ship has had issues but there seems to be plenty of answers in this forum.

Is it a PITA to replace rubbers? Meaning that you need to take a bunch of stuff apart to access them?

Thanks!

#2342 1 day ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Hi all, I really like this game and am in the market to own one. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. Adjusting leaf switches is all I’m good at at the moment.
Is this a reliable game for home use only? Is there any issue that comes up more often than others? I’ve read the ship has had issues but there seems to be plenty of answers in this forum.
Is it a PITA to replace rubbers? Meaning that you need to take a bunch of stuff apart to access them?
Thanks!

Hi Mattyk and welcome to the club!

POTC is a very reliable game, once the bugs are worked out of it. Like almost any other game, reliability really depends on the prior owners and what restorations they have done, the quality of their work and their attention to detail. Once all the optos, wire harnesses, switches, flipper mechs, etc have been adjusted and/or rebuilt, this game can run for years without issues in the home environment.

To replace *all* the rubber parts on a POTC is a pretty involved project. There are rubbers all over the playfield and several parts and plastics need to be removed to get at them all. For example, there are rubber posts in the spinning disk mechanism at the upper left. To get at them all, you need to remove the mechanism from the game or remove the backboard. To get the spinning disk mech out, you need to take the Totuga ramp off. To get that ramp off, you need to remove the Rum ramp.

#2343 1 day ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Hi Mattyk and welcome to the club!
POTC is a very reliable game, once the bugs are worked out of it. Like almost any other game, reliability really depends on the prior owners and what restorations they have done, the quality of their work and their attention to detail. Once all the optos, wire harnesses, switches, flipper mechs, etc have been adjusted and/or rebuilt, this game can run for years without issues in the home environment.
To replace *all* the rubber parts on a POTC is a pretty involved project. There are rubbers all over the playfield and several parts and plastics need to be removed to get at them all. For example, there are rubber posts in the spinning disk mechanism at the upper left. To get at them all, you need to remove the mechanism from the game or remove the backboard. To get the spinning disk mech out, you need to take the Totuga ramp off. To get that ramp off, you need to remove the Rum ramp.

Thanks schwaggs I appreciate the response!

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