(Topic ID: 105360)

PotC owners club: "Dead men tell no tales..."


By rai

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,068 posts
  • 201 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 days ago by arcademojo
  • Topic is favorited by 88 Pinsiders

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“Are you a Pirate?”

  • Arrg, I'm a Pirate 151 votes
    58%
  • I wish I were a Pirate 60 votes
    23%
  • I have no interest in Pirates 17 votes
    7%
  • I was a Pirate in the past but not at present. 32 votes
    12%

(260 votes)

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There are 2068 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 42.
#1301 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

I've had it only for a year, not tired of it yet Space doesn't allow me to have more than one machine (well, two at the absolute most). I don't think I'll ever be a big collector. I bought the machine because I like it, and because I wanted something to practice with.

If big points is what you are after, it's simple: Tortuga and chest all day. Ignore everything else. If extra balls are on, it can pay to complete Jack and one kraken, to get the West compass award. Otherwise, ignore Jack (it's a dangerous and low-value shot), and pretty much ignore the ship and the kraken too (except when lit for jackpot).
POTC really is a one-ball game when it comes to points. The ball that collects the South compass award is the one that counts. The idea is to stay in multi-ball as much as possible, getting the multipliers by sending additional balls into Tortuga, and cycling balls through the chest enough to re-light the jackpots. I ignore the chest super jackpot too, unless I happen to be able to collect it as a convenience while re-lighting jackpots. (The super is not worth enough points compared to the other scoring opportunities to make it worth chasing.) Sending balls into Tortuga is useful not just for the multipliers, but to get balls out of the way and park them for a while.
Once the ball that collects the South compass award drains, the same strategy applies, but for fewer points. It's possible to work up the jackpot value to well over a million (I've managed 1.8 million once). But that takes a long time and, if you get the jackpot value that high, you are having a stellar game already anyway. Once above 1 million, the jackpot value resets back to 1 million at the end of each ball, and it takes too much effort and risk to work it back up again. I never shoot at the center saucer because it's a tight shot that can easily cause a drain. Instead, get your Liar's Dice awards during multi-ball, where balls end up in the saucer by accident, and the award is collected even if it goes into the saucer from the bumpers. (In single-ball play, getting into the saucer from the bumpers does not give you the award.) The accidental saucer hits also raise the jackpot value as a side-effect.
I try to avoid stacking Tortuga and chest multi-ball. There is no scoring advantage to be had this way. If the multi-balls are stacked, when multi-ball ends, you end up in a waste land with no progress towards either the chest or Tortuga. Generally, I try to use one multi-ball to make progress towards the other one, without starting the other multi-ball. That way, when multi-ball ends, I have next multi-ball ready or nearly ready.
Ship multi-ball can be useful as an add-a-ball feature. If the ship is ready or nearly ready, and Tortuga or chest multi-ball are down to two balls, shoot the ship to get a third ball.
Work the lane completions at the top, they add to the bonus multiplier. Bonus can get large on POTC. (The largest I remember getting is a little over 80 million.)
The Davy Jones strategy of not defeating DJ to keep getting big points is definitely interesting. My best score on POTC on factory settings is well over 600 million. In that game, I never defeated DJ, but tried and failed three or four times. All the hits to the ship during these attempts worked up the score a fair bit. (With two balls in Tortuga, a shot at DJ can be worth 9 million or more.)

So..... You're somewhat familiar with the game?

#1302 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So..... You're somewhat familiar with the game?

Somewhat

1 week later
#1303 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Can somebody tell me how to remove the compass spinner? There seems to be a tiny allen key hole in the middle but I cannot seem to rotate it clockwise- nor counterclockwise. I tried to remove the whole assembly with motor and everything but I'm unable to fit it through the hole because the backboard is in the way.
Why would I want to remove it? Because it's very squeaky when it stops rotating. I'd like to see what's causing this and hopefully resolve it as well.

Maybe my question got missed in the whole gameplay tutorial by Michi (thanks for the info by the way!) or maybe I just got ignored alltogether.

But I'd like to quote myself and hopefully somebody can help me get the spinning disc disassembled without damaging it. Thanks!

#1304 1 year ago

My apologies, I didn't mean hi-jack the thread.

I've never done this before, so I really don't know. Looking at the manual, it appears that there is a grub screw in the center of the disc that should allow you to remove the aluminium plate from the motor spindle. You may have to cut through the center of the decal on the disc to get to it. I honestly don't know

#1305 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

Maybe my question got missed in the whole gameplay tutorial by Mitch (thanks for that by the way!) or maybe I just got ignored alltogether.
But I'd like to quote myself and hopefully somebody can help me get the spinning disc disassembled without damaging it. Thanks!

I have removed mine around the backboard. Its just a matter of disconnecting the wiring and turning the assembly to the point where it comes out. It is tight.

The metal disk is attached with a allen head set screw. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Make sure you have a tight fitting allen wrench. If it is to tight, you can try heating it up with a soldering iron, then trying to loosen it.

My original motor squeaked. Most notable as the motor spins to a stop. I tried lubricating it to no avail. I believe the squeaking sound is coming from the motor brushes. I recently had to replace it, and the new one squeaks exactly like the old one....

#1306 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

My apologies, I didn't mean hi-jack the thread.

No Michi your input was greatly appreciated! And all this is exactly what this thread is for right?
Hopefully I'll be able to rack up such high scores.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

My original motor squeaked. Most notable as the motor spins to a stop. I tried lubricating it to no avail. I believe the squeaking sound is coming from the motor brushes. I recently had to replace it, and the new one squeaks exactly like the old one....

Wow thanks for the info! That does spare me a lot of work. I'll leave it at is then.

1 month later
#1307 1 year ago

Just joined Pinside. I post on rec.games pinball also. Picked up a POTC this past Saturday. It was in like new condition with the goodie bag still stapled in. Like some one else here stated, I promptly ordered mods including a color DMD. I have one on my Road Show. Is the air ball protector (maffewl's airball protector) still available? Only negative thus far is the cheap art work printing on the plastic. Has anyone did a mod on those?

#1308 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

just joined Pinside. I post on rec.games pinball also. Picked up a POTC this past Saturday. It was in like new condition with the goodie bag still stapled in. Like some one else here stated, I promptly ordered mods including a color DMD. I have one on my Road Show. Is the air ball protector (maffewl's airball protector) still available? Only negative thus far is the cheap art work printing on the plastic. Has anyone did a mod on those?

Welcome to the club jbug. I do still have a few airball deflectors. I'll shoot you a PM for more info.

#1309 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Welcome to the club jbug. I do still have a few airball deflectors. I'll shoot you a PM for more info.

Thanks much. I haven't had any air balls yet but any reductions in reflections are welcomed. One other thing: I only had one Stern machine in the past (NIB Ripley's Believe It or Not) but that was a while back. I have the playfield up and resting on the front of the machine. I can't seem to get to go back down in the play position. I don't want to force any thing so I wanted to get advice. Thanks. By the way, I've read this entire thread and really like how pleasant and helpful the post are here. A very friendly atmosphere. That was enough in itself to make me join Pinside.

#1310 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

Thanks much. I haven't had any air balls yet but any reductions in reflections are welcomed. One other thing: I only had one Stern machine in the past (NIB Ripley's Believe It or Not) but that was a while back. I have the playfield up and resting on the front of the machine. I can't seem to get to go back down in the play position. I don't want to force any thing so I wanted to get advice. Thanks. By the way, I've read this entire thread and really like how pleasant and helpful the post are here. A very friendly atmosphere. That was enough in itself to make me join Pinside.

Not sure which position you have the playfield in, but there is a notch that keeps the playfield from sliding back when it's lifted and resting. To get it to go back into the playing position, you have to slightly lift up on the back of the playfield, and slide back at the same time to get past that notch.

#1311 1 year ago

When it's going back into the full return position sometimes need to wiggle it to get it completely down but never is excessive force required.

#1312 1 year ago

That did it and thanks. I'm used to the Williams/Bally method.

#1313 1 year ago

I used to lift the back of the playfield to get it up over the bumps. But it's not necessary, and discovered there's an easier way.

Standing in front of the machine, reach out and grab the vertical parts of the supports. One in each hand. Pull supports downward, and the back of the playfield will lever/lift over those bumps, and you can then push. No, it does not put undue stress on the PF I'd say.

#1314 1 year ago

Thanks Scott. I've noticed when playing that sometimes that sound of men saying "aahh" (not spoken but in singing voice) sounds like it it gets stuck and doubled up. You can't help but notice it as it doesn't sound right. Is that normal? I have the v6.00 installed.

#1315 1 year ago

Where is this translite from?

#1316 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

Thanks Scott. I've noticed when playing that sometimes that sound of men saying "aahh" (not spoken but in singing voice) sounds like it it gets stuck and doubled up. You can't help but notice it as it doesn't sound right. Is that normal? I have the v6.00 installed.

I'm not even sure what sound effect this is, but no, it's definitely not normal.

Might there be soome switch that's stuck? But like I said, I'm not sure which sound effect you mean and what might trigger this.
It might be possible that someone altered the firmware to put in custom sound or music. You could re-apply version 6.0 firmware to make sure everything is default.

#1317 1 year ago

Check the opto's, sounds like an opto is going crazy, had that once. Check the connection on the opto's these go bad after a while.
In the switch test you should be able to see that one switch is going crazy.

#1318 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

Thanks Scott. I've noticed when playing that sometimes that sound of men saying "aahh" (not spoken but in singing voice) sounds like it it gets stuck and doubled up. You can't help but notice it as it doesn't sound right. Is that normal? I have the v6.00 installed.

I get that on mine when you are trying to add crew members....every time you hit a bumper or target that adds crew I get an "ahhh". Sometimes when the ball is really moving the "ahhhhs" seem to double up or sound on top of each other. I'm not sure what that mode does...maybe someone here can help. But if yours is broken ...so is mine.

#1319 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

I get that on mine when you are trying to add crew members....every time you hit a bumper or target that adds crew I get an "ahhh". Sometimes when the ball is really moving the "ahhhhs" seem to double up or sound on top of each other. I'm not sure what that mode does...maybe someone here can help. But if yours is broken ...so is mine.

Yes that must be the sound he means! I can imagine that doubling up those sounds is also normal when the ball goes crazy. I try to get lock enabled before collecting crew. That way locking a ball in Tortuga make crew collecting a blast because the balls keeps bouncing against all the targets.

But I don't think it's normal is the sounds keeps sound when not in this mode

#1320 1 year ago

If this happens when not in "Collect Crew" mode, it's most likely a chattering opto on the chest (which makes a similar sound for getting each key letter). The contacts for the optos where they plug into the board are eternally unreliable. Usually, pulling the opto plugs off the board and re-seating them fixes the problem, at least for a while, so I'd try doing that first. Also re-seat the main connector (8 pins, from memory) for the opto board; it can cause this issue as well.

I'm still looking for a good solution to permanently fix the problem with the poor circuit board connectors for the opto boards. (It happens even with brand-new board and optos, as I found out the hard way.) If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be keen to hear them!

#1321 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

The contacts for the optos where they plug into the board are eternally unreliable.

True! I had a similar issues with the ship's opto. Since I couldn't get a replacement opto from a local seller, I decided to bypass the two conductive tracks leading from the wire to the LED with two small wires. The opto works great again and since the wires are flexible, I will not have any new breaks in the tracks. Doesn't look very neat though, but since these aren't visible I don't really care.

#1322 1 year ago

A totally off-topic question but is there any way to get notified if someone posts a reply in a particular thread like this one? I'm quite new to Pinside and hate browsing to all the threads I'm interested in to see if there're any new responses.

#1323 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

I'm still looking for a good solution to permanently fix the problem with the poor circuit board connectors for the opto boards. (It happens even with brand-new board and optos, as I found out the hard way.) If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be keen to hear them!

Stern games have a similar problem on the trough connector and I've had the same problem on STTNG opto board. To solve it, I used Dielectric Grease. Using a Qtip, wipe an invisible layer of dielectric grease on the pins. You should not gob it on, just make the pins "wet" with the grease. Reassemble the connector.

My AVLE used to start to loose track of balls every 25-100 games due to a flaky connection on the trough opto board. Since applying a thin layer of Dielectric Grease, I have not had the problem in 3 years. Same with the STTNG opto board. Try the grease on the connector to the switch matrix first. I have not needed it on the actual opto connectors.

You can get it at your local auto parts store or Amazon.

amazon.com link »

#1324 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

To solve it, I used Dielectric Grease.

Thanks a lot for that tip, I'll give that a try!

#1325 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

A totally off-topic question but is there any way to get notified if someone posts a reply in a particular thread like this one? I'm quite new to Pinside and hate browsing to all the threads I'm interested in to see if there're any new responses.

Koos, I was wondering the same thing. I post on AVS and bluray.com and you can subscribe to post to get instant e-mails for postings. I looked but didn't find that on Pinside.

#1326 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

Koos, I was wondering the same thing. I post on AVS and bluray.com and you can subscribe to post to get instant e-mails for postings. I looked but didn't find that on Pinside.

I've never found one. I just favorite threads I want to follow, then just check my favorites list, and it'll show new posts at the top

#1327 1 year ago

I re-soldered my optos and have had no issues since. Strongly suggest it.

#1328 1 year ago
Quoted from Koos:

A totally off-topic question but is there any way to get notified if someone posts a reply in a particular thread like this one? I'm quite new to Pinside and hate browsing to all the threads I'm interested in to see if there're any new responses.

You can select Topics which you viewed or topics in which you posted. When you select Hide Idle on - you will only see topics in which activity is. You can also set this topic as favorite, then you view topics marked as your favorites - also put hide idle on.
That are the options. No email notifications.

#1329 1 year ago

I got my color DMD today. I got it installed but the screens are not moving. It's stuck on the first screen with the games software info. If I power down and turn back on it will be stuck on a different screen. I don't think I did anything wrong. I re-seated the ribbon cable to no avail. Instructions say to use a 8GB or less USB for updates and I used one that is 4G. I know ColorDMD is probably closed for the day so I thought I'd check here in the mean time.

Edit: The board I got is not Chroma A1. I have Chroma A2 which I did not see mentioned on their website. Not sure that means anything though.

#1330 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

I got my color DMD today. I got it installed but the screens are not moving. It's stuck on the first screen with the games software info. If I power down and turn back on it will be stuck on a different screen. I don't think I did anything wrong. I re-seated the ribbon cable to no avail. Instructions say to use a 8GB or less USB for updates and I used one that is 4G. I know ColorDMD is probably closed for the day so I thought I'd check here in the mean time.
Edit: The board I got is not Chroma A1. I have Chroma A2 which I did not see mentioned on their website. Not sure that means anything though.

Send them a message they their website. I have gotten responses at all hours. Randy has top notch customer service.

#1331 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Send them a message they their website. I have gotten responses at all hours. Randy has top notch customer service.

Thanks, message sent.

#1332 1 year ago
Quoted from PeterG:

You can select Topics which you viewed or topics in which you posted. When you select Hide Idle on - you will only see topics in which activity is. You can also set this topic as favorite, then you view topics marked as your favorites - also put hide idle on.

Thanks Peter!

#1333 1 year ago

I ordered this talking skull from eBay and want to use it as a topper on my pin.

I was wondering if there's any way to replace the three AA batteries with a direct connection in the pin so it powers up with the machine. Is there any 4,5v connection somewhere that you know of? I'm no expert on electronics so I'm not sure if there's any easy way to reduce 6,3v or other higher voltages back to 4,5v.

Maybe I can replace the lights in the eyes with 12v flashers and hook them up to flashers in the machine as well.

#1334 1 year ago

There is an accessory socket below the right-hand flipper button. It has three wires, ground, 5V and 12V. You can use the 5V one if you run a cable up into the backbox and to your topper. You'll need a 3-pin molex male connector. You can often buy these with short wires already connected, and you can extend the length of the wires by soldering some more wire onto the ends, and insulating the solder points with heat shrink.

If you are not familiar with electronics, it might be best to get someone with basic knowledge and a multimeter to help you out.

#1335 1 year ago
Quoted from michi:

There is an accessory socket below the right-hand flipper button.

I have BASIC understanding of electronics and are also able to solder some wires so thanks for the tip about the accessory socket!

I do need 4,5 (3xAA 1,5V battery) but do you think the 0,5V variance is small enough so it won't break?

#1336 1 year ago

Ok so you want the lights from the topper to start with your machine.
Indeed in the cabinet there is an extra 5 / 12 volt molex, you can use that. There is also an option in the backbox but I have to check that. To get from 5 to 4,5 you only get in a resistor (weerstand) it is only a small one of around 27 Ohms (red, purple, black, (gold))
You could do more but then the leds will not burn as bright. Next restistor is 33 Ohms (orange, orange, black). Happy modding!

#1337 1 year ago

Yes, ¼ W 33 Ω resistor will do the trick. Costs about 5 cents. You almost certainly won't notice the change in brightness.

#1338 1 year ago

I've just joined the club (haven't received the game yet).
Is it the done thing to remove the plastic screens from around the ship in the home environment ?

#1339 1 year ago
Quoted from stoptap:

I've just joined the club (haven't received the game yet).
Is it the done thing to remove the plastic screens from around the ship in the home environment ?

Yes

#1340 1 year ago

Welcome stoptap pirates is one of the most underrated games out there! It's just awesome.

I would absolutely do away with the "sneeze guard". There is a mod also you can buy to help prevent aiballs getting in the ship area by maffewl its awesome I have one on mine !

Enlight19 (resized).jpg

IMG_1753 (resized).JPG

#1341 1 year ago

I haven't heard back from Color DMD yet but have a couple of questions on the installation for those that have a color dmd installed.

1. Should there be a selection in the color dmd menu for selecting SAM? If so I didn't see it.
2. What is the short ribbon cable that was included for? I saw nothing about it in the installation instructions

I'm a bit impatient about this not working and not yet getting a response from Color DMD. I've installed one on my RS when it was released and had no problems.

#1342 1 year ago

Hey jbug I have a led colorDMD in mine, yes there is a menu for setting the system type. Off hand, I can't exactly remember how to get to it but I believe it's in the instructions and video on their website.

Do you know if you have the Chroma A1 board? This is most recent board, chances are if you purchased yours recently you have this. If so then did you install the software yet?
Follow steps here:

As far as the ribbon, I just used my existing display ribbon, not the on it came with, not sure what that is for.

Screen Shot 2017-09-15 at 10.06.29 AM (resized).png

#1343 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey jbug I have a led colorDMD in mine, yes there is a menu for setting the system type. Off hand, I can't exactly remember how to get to it but I believe it's in the instructions and video on their website.
Do you know if you have the Chroma A1 board? This is most recent board, chances are if you purchased yours recently you have this. If so then did you install the software yet?
Follow steps here: » YouTube video
As far as the ribbon, I just used my existing display ribbon, not the on it came with, not sure what that is for.

Soulrider, on the back it says Chroma rev A2. I saw no menu for selecting the type of system. I did install the software and got no indications that anything happened but when you go into the color dmd menu it shows vs. 3.3 which is the latest for POTC. Not sure what else to do at this point. I appreciate your reply.

Edit: Tried another stick for the download and it worked. Of course I'm happy except for the lack of communication from Color DMD.

#1344 1 year ago

Yup that's the newer boards, Soon as im home ill peek at mine

#1345 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Yup that's the newer boards, Soon as im home ill peek at mine

See my edited post above. Again, I appreciate your concern very much as well as others who posted concerning my situation.

#1346 1 year ago

For those of you with a ColorDMD, version 3.3 of the software was released recently. It's a few touch-ups to the kraken animation and a few other minor color corrections, so nothing major. But it does look a bit nicer than 3.0.

http://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware.html

#1347 1 year ago

Treasure Chest:

Is there way to light up the heart and treasures separately? I saw the mod with the color changing LED but I'd like the heart to remain red at all times and the gold and other items to remain a steady color also. Those tiny LED lights there are pretty weak looking and does nothing. A mod with an animated (pulsing) heart and well lite would be even better. I thought I saw (some years ago) a nice mod for the lights but I may be wrong.

#1348 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

Treasure Chest:
Is there way to light up the heart and treasures separately? I saw the mod with the color changing LED but I'd like the heart to remain red at all times and the gold and other items to remain a steady color also.

I think you may the wrong thing in mind. The mod you are referring to is a separate smaller chest that you can stick somewhere on the playfield for decoration. It doesn't have the pulsing heart in it, and it does not replace or modify the existing chest.

I'm not aware of any mods for the original chest, other than people painting it to look better. I've also added some vellum to mine to diffuse the red LEDs more, so they don't look like pinpricks when they shine through the cover with the HEART letters and the heart.

#1349 1 year ago
Quoted from jbug:

Treasure Chest:
Is there way to light up the heart and treasures separately? I saw the mod with the color changing LED but I'd like the heart to remain red at all times and the gold and other items to remain a steady color also. Those tiny LED lights there are pretty weak looking and does nothing. A mod with an animated (pulsing) heart and well lite would be even better. I thought I saw (some years ago) a nice mod for the lights but I may be wrong.

jbug, I made a video (posted below) for you that may be helpful. I removed the plastic "heart/coin" piece of the chest and lightly sprayed the underside with white spray paint. This allows the led lights to diffuse more across the heart, and allows the letters to be much more readable. I also have a red led strip under the chest that is tied into the same wiring, this is the red glow that flashes with the heart. The second chest in the video (on the upper playfield) is a mod that can be purchased from user lermods . The video doesn't do it justice, it has a lot of shimmer/glitter that looks really nice.

The video isn't the best quality as I left the glass on and am using a phone, but should help with the idea.

#1350 1 year ago

My POTC white wood playfields.

IMG_0260 (resized).JPG

IMG_0261 (resized).JPG

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