When you tested all the fuses, did you pull them out of circuit?

Trace the power from the service outlet to the transformer and check the testpoints on the rectifier board.

Also, check the power connectors going to/from the rectifier board. Pull the connectors and check for char.

faz

And you checked the fuse in the power box inside the cabinet just to the right of the coin door?

I don't own any DE games, but I've seen them on the other four games I have.

Looking at the power driver board, it looks like the upper right corner of page 11 of the pdf.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1416/Data_East_1993_Last_Action_Hero_Schematics_BW.pdf

faz

I had an open wire one time I found on my power cable on my jurassic park.
You need to check to see if you are getting 120VAC in your machine. I would either measure the 120VAC at the input of the transformer or pull out the power box and look for any of these issues.

power switch bad
power cord with an open wire
varistor blown

Are you saying that you flip the power switch and NOTHING happens?
No lights?
No noise other than the click of the switch?

But, the service outlet works?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

And look for any burnt pins at the input molex connectors of the transfomer.

Definately the easier way to check to see if 120V is coming into the machine.

The PPB (power driver board as you're calling it) actually is in the bottom left of the backbox mounted under the power supply. Sounds like there is no voltage getting to any of the boards.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1416&picno=26289

I meant to say the test points are on the upper right corner of the power driver board.

That must have been me reading that wrong.

If the GI isn't even coming on, i would assume the transformer is putting out anything. Your problem is most likely from your wall outlet to the transformer. Check these things with a dmm WITH THE GAME UNPLUGGED!!!

1) Check continuity of the power cord
2) Check to make sure everything is good in the power box, in the cabinet. line filter, power switch, ect
3) Check the xfromer input connector, and for 120VAC

Your problem has to be somewhere along those lines. And i'm assuming you checked each fuse by pulling it out and testing it with a dmm. Visually isn't good enough.

Hope this helps

If your service outlet is working, I'd assume the power switch, line fuse, or a break somewhere between the power box and xformer.

It just occurred to me. What about a main fuse? Those can be hidden near the service outlet.
faz

He said he already checked the main fuse.

Oops... missed that post.

Absolutely! In circuit continuity will cycle through the rest of the game. Pull the fuse and check each one with a DMM.

faz

other possibilites too

Do you mean visually? or did you check with a meter.

Divide and conquer:

Refer to power wiring diagram page 48 of the manual below.

Find the 9 pin connector between input junk and transformer. Pull it apart and check for AC power across pins 1&7. Flip the switch and check again. If you are getting nothing here, problem is somewhere to the left. Since you said that the AC service outlet works, that would narrow the problem down to varistor,line filter, switch or wiring between this point.

Now if you do get power, then the problem is to the right. Check 4 pin connector, 2 yellow wires for AC power (this is the AC transformer secondary that supplies the GI)

lah1.jpg

OK, I hope that's your problem. It only takes a few seconds to narrow this down with a meter.

He means you can set your meter to AC, probe the black and white wires leading from the switch, then switch the switch on then off. You should read power when on...no power when off. If you read no power ever, the switch is probably the problem.

You can absolutely isolate the problem to the switch by probing the outputs of the line filter. If you have power there...then it's definitely the switch.

Switches fail. I've replaced a few in my day.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

They do, and it's a easy test, but it's a rare one for sure.

Did you test for 115VAC power at the line filter?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Did you check power going into the switch? Meter on AC. Check power for power into the switch - it probably isn't even getting there.

When you replaced the fuse, did you check with a meter for AC power both going into the fuse and out of the fuse? Sometimes you can have a bad/broken fuse holder.

Now check for power at the inputs to the line filter. Have it? If you measure AC power on the input to the line filter, but not out, then the line filter is bad. If you don't have power into the line filter, power down and use a meter set for ohms/continuity and check each terminal of the service outlet to the line filter to see if there is a break in either the hot(black) or neutral(white).

Basically your problem has to be between the service outlet and the switch because the service outlet is getting power but the switch isn't. There is only three components in this part of the circuit: The varistor, line filter, and fuse. You can eliminate the varistor, because if it were shorted you would blow the fuse and if it is open, it has no effect. You can then eliminate the other two with meter measurements in and out. All that is left from there is the wiring between them.

Ronnie,

You could save yourself time by performing the tests that we've detailed.

Wayout has a good set of steps.

To be very clear,
...meter on AC volts, or 200 VAC, depending on the type of meter you have.
...black probe on the solder joint where the black line power wire enters the line filter box.
...red probe on the solder joint where the white line power wire enters the line filter box.
Got about 115VAC?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Call me if you want some phone help. 313-268-oh five four 0ne

Yes. That's what is confusing. Once testing for power at the line filter box failed, there was no reason to replace the switch. I assumed the test for power at the line filter was successful since you replaced he switch. That didn't add up. That's what confused me.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Nice Eric.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Yup, Eric's a good guy, even if he is a Detroit Tiger fan.

We're glad you didn't!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Well done Eric / Chris. Watching from the cheap seats...always learning.

Glad you made it out alive Ronnie!
faz

Current Ronnie....pulling too much current.

Pool or pond.... pond for you!

or

220, 221 ...whatever it takes

Details...

faz

Just trying to edumicate....