(Topic ID: 42731)

Dead flipper issue after rebuild [Whirlwind]

By Flippingr8

11 years ago


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#1 11 years ago

I'm looking for some guidance of what to look for - I rebuilt 3 working flippers on my Whirlwind. The Right ones turned out fine, initially, but the left one was quite weak. I thought perhaps I had the wiring wrong as regards the power wires to the ends, tried reversing those. That didn't work at all; flipper was dead. Tried re-reversing them; flipper still dead and R sided flippers working but acting weaker and chattering some since then.

I checked Ohm resistance on the 3 lugs and the meter goes from infinity to zero when I make contact between either outside lug and the middle, or between the two outside lugs. I think this is good , that the coil wires haven't lost contact with the lugs (with all the soldering I did), but am not sure.

Additionally, does polarity matter as regards the two power wires which are hooked up to the outside two lugs? What happens if they are reversed? Could I have blown a fuse if the R sided flippers are still working some?

Thanks.

#2 11 years ago

If the polarity is reversed you will blow a fuse ,check fuses if OK, check for power between coil common lug and ground . On flippers that are chattering it sound like your losing power to the hold side of coil check coil winding connection at terminal .Did you replace eos switches ? sometimes new switches need contacts cleaned and adjusted to work

#3 11 years ago

I rebuilt my whirlwind flippers based off Vid1900s post:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

After rebuilding them i was tweaking the EOS and flipper button leaf switches quite a bit.
You can file the tungston leaf switches with sandpaper or an actual file to make the connection cleaner.
As for the EOS switch, i experimented with the points spacing for quite a while until it felt the strongest.

Only other thing that have be happening is cold solder connection?

I can take pics of my whirlwind flipper mechs tonight and post them if you'd like.

#4 11 years ago

Ranhorton. That would be great, would like to see what your wiring looks like to L flipper. I did replace the EOS switches and caps.

I'm going to check the fuses later. Anybody know which one it would be? Thx

#5 11 years ago

Looking at the coil with flat end closest to you the gray yellow 50 v would on the left and blue white on the opposite side also the view from the bottom of the playfield is reverse of this if the coil is installed in the right direction. Power comes from fuse f6 in aux driver board

#6 11 years ago

I took some pictures of mine. Hope this helps. IMG_1969.jpgIMG_1969.jpg IMG_1970.jpgIMG_1970.jpg

#7 11 years ago

I also highly suggest reading and following Ran's link from Vid above. Doing the update to the newer WPC style made mine play even better. Note my pics were prior to me doing the update...

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I also highly suggest reading and following Ran's link from Vid above. Doing the update to the newer WPC style made mine play even better. Note my pics were prior to me doing the update...

I also installed the return springs to the outside of the bracket based on Vid's post.
It was pretty simple to drill the small hole.
Well worth the extra effort!!!

#9 11 years ago

Here are pics of my WW pre-rebuild so you can check your wiring.

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#10 11 years ago

More pics.

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#11 11 years ago

thank you all very much - great bunch of people here to offer this much help. will see if I can get this fixed within the next few days.

1 week later
#12 11 years ago

I'm not sure what has gone wrong. Fuse seems to be ok when I test it (plus R sided flippers work). R sided flippers are working, but weak. Eject coil for the cellar has gotten weak. L flipper is not working at all. I've tried hooking it up with the power wires one way and reversed it to the other way (both on the outside lugs). Also have used alligator clips to make connect the wires to the 3 terminals to make sure that contact is being made in case I had a cold solder joint there. No luck.

These were all new parts - new coil, new capacitor and leaf switch, etc. I've attached a photo of my alligator clip test setup, which didn't work. Any ideas? Could I have blown a transistor or something?

IMG_2146.jpgIMG_2146.jpg

#13 11 years ago

the way it is in the above photo is the opposite of Ranhorn's photo #2, but it didn't work for me that way either. Just dead now.

I don't have any experience checking voltages to coils with the machine on and the playfield raised. Is that something that I need to do? Anybody that could walk me through that one?

#14 11 years ago

Look at this photo closely.

Note the thick and thin wires from the coil leading up to the lugs.

Note the polarity of the two diodes (the bands at the ends).

=

Everything needs to be EXACTLY in the same orientation as the photo. Don't skip any detail, check each wire/diode against your coil.

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#15 11 years ago

To check for voltage set meter on dc volts with system powered up put one lead on the 50 volt side and other lead to cabinet ground should read around 50 volts .Also make sure you are getting continuity through your eos switches and flipper button switches .I have seen brand new eos switches that did not work

#16 11 years ago

Something I learned about new EOS switches. ALWAYS dip the contact ends in alcohol then wipe dry before installing. There can be a film on the contacts that will prevent a good connection.

3 weeks later
#17 11 years ago

I'm only getting 38.3 volts at all 3 coils. All 3 coils are weak, especially the L one, which barely moves. I bought a new coil, by the way, in case I had vaporized one of the wires or it was making poor contact.

Is 38 volts actual vs. 50 volts required the problem? Why would that be happening and what do I have to do about it?

Thanks

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