And I come to you guys for help. * Reader alert * I'm a pinball repair noob, this is my first machine and learning as I go.

So I have a Last Action Hero that's been pretty reliable this past year. Suddenly while playing a few days ago the right flipper randomly stopped working completely (mind you, it has stopped briefly a few times before but came back to life after a short time). Left flipper is fine.

I've tried my best to do my research, search forums, watch videos but I still cannot diagnose the issue. Here's what I've done and what I know:

I've checked the simple things. The flipper button switch is good, I can use the right flipper button to eject a ball to trough in diagnostics.

The flipper mech itself looks good, springs not broken, I can manually flip it smoothly, does not bind or seem to be missing anything.

End of stroke switch looks good. Touches and opens when it should.

The wires soldered to the flipper coils seem fine. Theres 2 connections on each coil and they are in tact.

Moving on to the flipper board. Theres four fuses. I was able to take out F1 and F2 and use my multimeter to test resistance and continuity and they are good. However I cant remove F3 or F4 because they are soldered in?? Is it common for people to solder fuses to the fuse clips? Anyway, I ordered a solder sucker so I can attempt to desolder the fuses and test and/or replace them but according to what I've researched F3 and F4 actually control the working left flipper anyway.

I've also learned I dont know how to use my multimeter almost at all. To test the coils I believe I should be able to turn the machine on and without starting a game, with my DMM on DC put the black lead to ground and put the red lead to the joint on the coil and it should read 50volt.

Well...I get nothing on either flipper when I do that, clearly I'm not doing something right. I also wasn't sure what exactly I was suppose to ground to, so I've been touching the black lead to the ground strap in the cabinet.

Alright pinsiders....please can somebody help me in ways I can understand? This is my only pin and if I cant get it up and running, I dont know if I'll make it through social distancing.

If it's something that is going to be something beyond my capabilities I fear it may be some time before I can get help here to service it with all the commotion in the world.

I include a picture of the flipper board if that helps. I know this was long, just trying to document what I was and wasn't able to figure out.

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Just pulled and checked F1 and F2. But have continuity, seem to have a good hold. I had a hard time getting them out the first time in pulled them last night.

I just gave a good tug on all 4 wires, the 2 on the coil and the 2 going to the EOS, seems solid. How do I test the diode? If it's by continuity and touching my leads on one side of the diode and the other...then its good..I suspect that may not be right.

Open and closed.

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On what setting please?

I tried checking the diode with my meter on both 200k and 200ma with the game both on/off. Both flippers just read 0 on either flipper so I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. Visually though it seems apparent the diode did not break off on either side and it appears to be identical to the working flipper. I do have the schematics, I just dont understand them very well, but I will start trying to learn how to read them better tomorrow.

I've tried, but no matter what and on either flipper when I touch each lead to either side of the diode the MM just says 0.00. Starting to think this MM just sucks. It came in a basic soldering kit.

I did try other settings, like the continuity setting Pintime suggested to use on the fuse clips. Still, the MM just reads 0.00 on either diode. And yup, I do know the diode is the little piece that goes from the blue to orange wire on the coil. I'm touching one lead on the metal to the left of the black piece and one lead to the right on the black piece. When reversed, still 0.00 even on the working flipper. Doesn't seem to matter if its on 20k, 200k, continuity. I will upload a photo tomorrow to show how I'm testing it. Not sure if I'm that dumb or if I need a different MM. Please tune back in if you could to check my work.

I want to believe the diodes are good but without proper MM testing or desoldering I can only see the connections on the coil seem real good. I have only physically disconnected one of the clips to the flipper board to make it easier to remove the fuses, but the other seems solid.

Thanks for your help this far. I know this forum is full of pinball geniuses that could probably figure it out themselves in 15 minutes.

Transistors will be a whole new thing I'll have to research how to test.

Thank you, I will give that a try tonight and see if it makes a difference.

Hey jigs, thanks for the help that actually worked. Is that jumper essentially bypassing the eos switch and a something I can use as a longer term fix or is it not a great idea to continue playing the game this way? Thank you.

Thank you so much, you saved my sanity.