(Topic ID: 16072)

Dead DMD dots.... how bad... Star Trek 25th Anv

By worldofglenn

11 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by southbound
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

I'm posting two pictures of my Star Trek 25th Anniversary DMD. It has a few lines out. Looks like replacement for those DMD is a lot more than for the 128x32's. Plus, I don't see much in the way of stock. Over at MAD, I see the display glass: http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=1876

Will that fix it? How many of those little tiny pins will I be de-soldering and re-soldering? GULP!

Anyone have one lying around?

Thanks!

STdotsout.jpgSTdotsout.jpg stdotsnotalive.jpgstdotsnotalive.jpg

#2 11 years ago

hmmm never seen one have just a partial line out...I'm sure you reseated the ribbon cables right? any of my DMD's that have lost a line.....lost the whole line

#3 11 years ago
Quoted from Wickedquickss:

hmmm never seen on have just a partial line out...I'm sure you reseated the ribbon cables right? any of my DMD's that have lost a line.....lost the whole line

That looks more like a dot controller memory problem.
--
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#4 11 years ago

I've tried reseating the cables and no change. I recently did full rom upgrades and changing from old display rom to new one did not change the dots issue.

#5 11 years ago

If you finger tap it do you get any sign of life in the dead pixels? Tap, tap...anything?

#6 11 years ago

Chris knows alot more than me...I know almost enough to get me in trouble....but I beleive your DMD itself is good...you have another issue...I beleive..I would go with Chris's diagnosis before mine for sure.

2 months later
#7 11 years ago

I just came across this today while looking something else up. Have you solved your DMD problem?

I had the exact same issue, only with 2 half-rows out on an otherwise bright display. Using the schematics from the manual, I identified the circuit for the bad rows and found a bad solder point on the board.

I'm on the road right now, but I'll be back home tomorrow. Let me know if you need some help and I'll go through my manual and look over my DMD board to refresh my memory. You should be able to get your display back to 100%.

#8 11 years ago

Southbound, thank you and much kudus for picking up this old thread. I have not resolved it and would really appreciate a few more details. I'm traveling to Atlanta tomorrow through the entire week, so it will be a while before I can get hands on and dirty with it, but I can't wait to give it a shot!

Thanks,

Glenn

#9 11 years ago

I had the same behaviour on 2 different Hook displays, and I fixed it pretty easy.
Just check the dead row/column solder between the board and the glass, I'm almost certain that you'll find a cracked or cut lead from the board to the glass.
Apply solder to repair the cut trace and you'll get a nice fully working DMD back.

regards
Buk

#10 11 years ago

Check the solder connections on pin #13 on P3 (left side of DMD board) and resistor R169. In my case, I had to re-apply some solder to the P3 pins to bring both my dead rows back to life. Good luck and let us know you make out.

#11 11 years ago

I edited my previous post to specify P3 instead of P1. It was late when I sent it and read the schematic wrong.

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