Skip to my latest post for a summary of what has been done already

I just picked up a Royal Rumble. It had some alkaline corrosion and was rebooting or telling me the coindoor was opened when it wasn't.

I replaced the socket and M6802. Game boots up and does play but if the coin door is closed the middle and upper GI turns off. If I open the coin door it turns back on.

While I am sure I can eventually track this down a pointer in the right direction would be appreciated. I am hoping it isn't from the replacement socket and CPU chip.

Thanks!

Board prior to repair.

The 7402 doesn't look that great and I have a socket and a spare I could put in but I don't think that is related to the GI unless it controls a transistor that controls the GI Relay??

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I am not brave!!!

Nothing seems shorted by the coin door. Is it possible an bad transistor could be causing this?

In a coil test I get some crazy stuff happening.

Video coming up

So CN12 connector was also corroded. When I repinned it and put it back in I noticed some arcing and sizzle coming from Q23 above it. Time to replace some transistors.

I did all of that. Replaced the 6802 and the socket, replaced the 7402 with a socket and new chip. I replaced a 4401 that was not good for the GI and replaced the connector for CN12.

Checked for shorts anywhere I could with a visible inspection. Fired the game back up... literally

I believe the one transistor closest to the left is not wired to anything and the other is the Ramp diverter.

I pulled the wires out of the harness for the diverter and the fire is gone. GI is still not coming on unless the coin door is opened still.

I am guessing coil diode is shot on the ramp diverter under the mini playfield so I will rip that all apart tomorrow and check it. I will then repair the board again replacing the 4401 and TIP102 for each coil.

Also if I pull that harness at CN12 the GI lights up with the coin door open. I guess something wired to that harness is shorted somewhere

So I think I figured out what may be killing at least one set of transistors.

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This should be 50.2 Ohms resistance and mine measures 0.0

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5031-00

$30 + Shipping ouch.

Still no idea why the GI wont work unless the coin door is opened unless this being on the same harness and being faulty is the cause.

I removed the diode and disconnected the coil before testing but I did not notice if it was shorted to the bracket. I will check it later today.

So I tested some other stuff with my meter and got bizarre results. I went and bought a new meter and retested that first coil. It is fine at 52.2 ohms. I replaced the diode on it because I had it out of the game, and no it was not shorting to the bracket.

Since I intended on ripping the game apart and rebuilding everything I am going to re-diode every coil.

Did anyone notice that some flashers fired when I was in coil test in the first video? I am guessing a short exists there too.

Just adding this to help keep my thoughts organized. I am going to replace the diodes on the coils after testing each one that is connected to those transistors and replace the a/b relay on the PPB and check and replace the tip36c's associated and pull the 7408 that is controlling CN12.

I can't think of anything else it could be. I tore down the entire playfield while I wait for parts and pulled every bulb and flasher. I checked for anything shorted, loose or pinched and found nothing.

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Ok so I replaced every coil diode and tested every coil.

I replaced the transistors and predrive transistors. I replaced the 7408. I repinned the GI connector. I reflowed all the pins on the PPB and replaced the A/B relay.

The GI relay turns off when coin door switch shown in the photo here on the left is pushed in or pulled out all the way.

Additionally if I remove the GI harness from the power board I can still hear the relay click on and off as I open and close the coin door. I would think this would indicate it is not a wiring issue with the GI but something else possibly on the power supply board.

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So I just got crazy and replaced every transistor and pre-drive transistor, the other 7408 chips and the TIP36c transistors on the PPB.

All good now and put back together.

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For sale on Cleveland Craigslist: cleveland.craigslist.org link

I almost just started replacing things to use my new Hakko