Time Machine
Data East, 1988If one were to need a new boardset for time machine are the boards readily available and at what cost? Most likely would only need the one with the batteries if any at all. Just trying to factor the worse case scenario onto the cost of the game. Thanks.
That doesn't look terrible at all, should be easy to repair that particular board after it is cleaned up.
Looks like maybe just one transistor? Even if it was a bunch of them, they are cheap.
As far as battery damage goes, that is easily a repairable board.
If you are getting no input, make sure the strobes have a signal. It's also possible that the driver chips for the switches are blown.
Quoted from MarAlb:But the special solenoid area is a mess and needs some attention....
Oh--I didn't even look on that side of the board. 
Yeah, that looks a little crispy.
I cleaned up that transistor area put the board back in reseated all connections and fired her up. After a couple seconds I thought I smelled something and sure enough I then saw the smoke.i hurried got her shutoff and unplugged. Got the playfield lifted and looked around didn't see any obvious damage so started feeling for heat and yes I found it the hard way. The coil under the apron that fires the kickback was red hot.seems the plunger was to big to go through the sleeve and it was bound up. Cut the coil out put the playfield back down and tried again. Wah la....lights sound scoring. Everything works except 3bank target in middle,and kicker coil, and some really weak flippers. Thanks to everyone that chimed in and any and all advice is welcome.
So guys I got some parts in to replace locked on coil. Put new coil and plunger in for kickback left out lane. Since the original locked on I was keeping an eye on this one when I turned it on. Soon as I turn on machine coil locks on with plunger in kickback position. Looks like when the batteries leaked they dripped on transistor? 29? Can that be why this coil is locking on? Or maybe that special solenoid section in the board that was mentioned to need some attention?
Special solenoid section controls the slingshots and the popbumpers.
The kickback is controlled by one of the TIP36 transistors at the Playfield Power Board (PPB) board. Aka Popcorn Popper Board.
Looking at the schematics: Q4 (TIP36) at the PPB controls the kickback coil. This transistor is controlled by Q23 (TIP102,122) at the CPU board which also can be defective.
Quoted from MarAlb:Special solenoid section controls the slingshots and the popbumpers.
The kickback is controlled by one of the TIP36 transistors at the Playfield Power Board (PPB) board. Aka Popcorn Popper Board.
Looking at the schematics: Q4 (TIP36) at the PPB controls the kickback coil. This transistor is controlled by Q23 (TIP102,122) at the CPU board which also can be defective.
Thank you. Above and beyond.
Front and back of Q23. Back of 23 would be 2nd row up all the way right. Back if Q28is where it looks toasty.
Q23 and its connections look OK, but it could still be bad. It's predriver transistor looks bent pretty far though... check and make sure its legs are still making good connection.
It's possible to test those transistors and confirm good/bad while the board is out of the machine. If you have a meter, look up the boardset on pinwiki and follow the advice there. You will basically use the meter to get readings across pairs of legs on the transistors. You can compare with the other good ones on the board. If your suspect transistor tests out of spec (between .4 - .6 in diode test) you know it is bad.
The board looks fixable. If that's the only issue you're having, and it comes down to the transistor, and if you are careful and competent with a de/soldering iron you could do it yourself.
q28 does look pretty gross. I would clean up that excess flux with an old toothbrush and rubbing alcohol to get better view.
I have a board for this machine with batteries off board and rebuilt special solenoid area transistors and transistor drivers. Check out my ad.
Quoted from Jkush18:I have a board for this machine with batteries off board and rebuilt special solenoid area transistors and transistor drivers. Check out my ad.
The machine belongs to a local just getting into pinball.im just trying to get it up and running for him. I informed him of your ad. (Sorry not sure why pictures posted again)
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I'm glad to see yet another Time Machine being saved. Saw that
ForceFlow had mentioned k's arcade for boards have dealt with them in the past for my DE games. Will make one suggestion check over the power supply even though the game now works some attention now will keep the game working longer. Don't want to see your effort in saving a game be wasted due to poor power supply going south.
Nothing visibly obvious on that side, other than Q4 bleeding and the burned pin on J5 which connects to F1... which circuit does that fuse protect?
I would remove the board and look at the backside, however. My Torpedo Alley (which uses the same boardset) has had some issues on the PPB where the big resistors get cold solder joints on the back side of the board. You will notice on the topside, visible in your photos, there are no solder blobs holding them in place... it's all on the back. Under stress, those resistors can get hot and weaken those connections, which can compound issues. You normally have scorching on the board as a clue, but it can't hurt to inspect to be sure.
Those fuses are for the G.I.
The solder joints at the lower left corner look bad , but that's understandable because that's the burned connector.
This is the result of bad connections.
Replace the connector housing and krimp connections.
Replace the print header.
Replace Q4.
You did replace the coil right?
Quoted from Inkochnito:Those fuses are for the G.I.
The solder joints at the lower left corner look bad , but that's understandable because that's the burned connector.
This is the result of bad connections.
Replace the connector housing and krimp connections.
Replace the print header.
Replace Q4.
You did replace the coil right?
Funny u should say that. The right side gi is out in the game. Now I know why. Yes I've replaced the coil but still locking on.
My friend is purchasing the cpu board above from jkush. I guess ill be trying to tackle the things you mention above also. I sincerely thank you for the observations and advice.
Quoted from cp1610:I'm glad to see yet another Time Machine being saved. Saw that forceflow had mentioned k's arcade for boards have dealt with them in the past for my DE games. Will make one suggestion check over the power supply even though the game now works some attention now will keep the game working longer. Don't want to see your effort in saving a game be wasted due to poor power supply going south.
Thanks to all your support I was able to bring this machine back from the dead for my friend. It's up and running and quite fun to play if i must say. Thanks again.
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Zeist
St. Louis, MO