(Topic ID: 185755)

DE Simpsons Tech help needed


By Don44

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 39 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Don44
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

I picked up a Simpsons and need a little help diagnosing some problems. Some of the flashers don't work and when I put a bulb in, it flashes once and then burns out the bulb. Also, the pop bumpers, slings and coil for the right drop targets do not work. Any help would be appreciated.

#2 3 years ago

Pull and check fuses with a meter for things not working.

What number bulb are you putting in the flashers ? If it's a wedge base socket, don't use #555 bulbs, then you'd want #906 0r #912 .

LTG : )

#3 3 years ago

Its flashers and I am using 89 bulbs. I checked all the fuses and all good.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

Its flashers and I am using 89 bulbs.

Then I'd check voltage at the sockets, it sounds too high.

Fuses good, then check for a wire common to all the things not working having a break between board and coils.

LTG : )

#5 3 years ago

Is this a project game or you bought it as a working machine? If it was a working machine, maybe the previous owner can help.

#6 3 years ago

Which exact flashers? Can you change the fuse (and not change the bad flashers) and get all the other coils working?

#7 3 years ago

I have been busy but I got the coils working. There was a broken wire on one of the pop bumpers. I still have to address the flashers. I have to do some playfield touchup on this one too. What kind of paint should I be using?

#8 3 years ago

You can use enamel paint, but you will not be able to clean it off if you make a mistake. It would not require any clear over it.

If you use acrylic paint and make a mistake, you can remove it quickly and try again. It is recommended to put some type of clear over the acrylic paint to protect the touch ups.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Then I'd check voltage at the sockets, it sounds too high

Good advice.

From http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Flasher_Issues

4.11.4 Flasher Issues

Data East games usually have 4 flash lamps wired in parallel off an individual coil driver circuit. It is critical that all 4 (or at least 3) flash lamps are working on each circuit, otherwise you run the risk of all of the bulbs on that circuit burning out quickly due to the increased load each working bulb has to bear. Frequently, you will pick up a Data East game where many of the flash lamps are burned out. A common mistake when checking and replacing flash lamps on these games is to replace a single burned out flash lamp, only to find out when testing it, that it will light once and burn out, because it was the only working flash lamp on that circuit. The solution is to check the manual for the location of all the flash lamps in that circuit and make sure at least two flash lamps (but preferably 3) on the circuit are working before testing.

#10 3 years ago

I will get some time tomorrow to do some work but in the meantime, does anybody have or can take a pic of the Moe area in the top right and underneath the spinner on the upper left with the waterfall? Those are the areas I have to touch up and need reference.

#11 3 years ago

Mine is not a good candidate as my game has a lot of playfield wear and it does not bother me. I know my game was on route up until the time I purchased it. I just enjoy playing it.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

....does anybody have or can take a pic of the Moe area in the top right and underneath the spinner on the upper left with the waterfall? Those are the areas I have to touch up and need reference.

Here you go. I got lucky, my Moe area was in excellent shape and just needed a cleaning.

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#13 3 years ago

Spinner area was really good, just one tiny spot of touchup.

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#14 3 years ago

Thanks for the pics, mine just has a bare strip next to Moe and missing most of the quote Call for Oliver Klose-off. I have some time to work on it today. It was missing the cooling tower pop bumpers and just had regular pop bumper caps but I was able to score the kit for 3 on ebay for $50. The guy I got it from didn't even know it was supposed to have those.

#15 3 years ago

I wound up replacing all the non working flashers at the same time and now they all work, there's quite a few on Simpsons. Everything now works so on to cleaning the playfield and doing touchup.

#16 3 years ago

What does it say under 20k on the right inlane? I can't find a good pic of it.

#17 3 years ago

Before and after pics

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#18 3 years ago

I wish I could take credit but a friend of mine did the touch up. I still have to clear coat it.

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#19 3 years ago

Very nice! When you finish painting your playfield I will send my DE Simpsons for touch up work. .....just kidding

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

What does it say under 20k on the right inlane? I can't find a good pic of it.

This is the best I have of that area. It's always beat to shit when there wasn't mylar applied under the ball drop.

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1 week later
#21 3 years ago

I'm doing up a simpsons myself, playfield restored by tdiddy. I've never actually had a working version of the game, but it seems to me like there's a gate that...goes nowhere? What's up with that?

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from CadillacMusic:

I'm doing up a simpsons myself, playfield restored by tdiddy. I've never actually had a working version of the game, but it seems to me like there's a gate that...goes nowhere? What's up with that?

Upper left, just above the waterfall? That is odd, isn't it....you'd think the post rubbers should have been enough.

#23 3 years ago

It just seems like they forgot to delete it from the design or something, and it got built with it anyways.

1 week later
#24 3 years ago

Can somebody take a pic of the 12 pin power supply connector? Mine has hacks and I want to get it connected right. When I first power up, all lights work but some of the lights stop work. Its the 4 lights in the backbox that are encased in a rectangular box and the insert lights buy the inlanes and outlanes that stop working.

1 week later
#25 3 years ago

So I replaced the power supply connector and most lights work now. There is still a few random lights that do not though. All have good connections as far as I can tell and new bulbs. Can the diode that is on a bayonet socket go bad and that cause a light to not work?

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

So I replaced the power supply connector and most lights work now. There is still a few random lights that do not though. All have good connections as far as I can tell and new bulbs. Can the diode that is on a bayonet socket go bad and that cause a light to not work?

Gi lamps or insert lamps? Swap bulbs with other sockets that ware working to see if problem moves with the bulbs. What I noticed is that new bulbs with a silver base burn out much faster than old ones with a copper base. So new regular bulbs have a shorter life span. Expect that with $1 per box of 10 bulbs. Good reason to go to LEDs if you like them.

#27 3 years ago

I have three socket lights that do not work and have tried different bulbs. I am just looking to see if that diode on the base can go bad

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

I have three socket lights that do not work and have tried different bulbs. I am just looking to see if that diode on the base can go bad

Yes it can as well as possibly a bad lamp socket.

#29 3 years ago

ok, I will try to replace the diode. Any idea what diode I should use? I have a few different ones laying around.

#30 3 years ago

1N4004 or 1N4007 and in between are ok.

#31 3 years ago

I replaced the power supply connector and got all but 3 insert lights working. Initially there was 8 insert lights not working but I got 5 of them working when I replaced the connector but while trying to get the other 3 to work, the other 5 stopped working again. Can anybody tell me what wire on that connector I should be looking at or a different connector on the power supply?

#32 3 years ago

What power supply connector did you change? What insert lamps are affected before and after this connector change? Picture sounds like it is in order showing which lamps.

Insert lamps are driven by the MPU.

#33 3 years ago

I changed the rectangular 12 terminal one. The lights that are affected are the 2 lights on the welcome to springfield sign, Lisas face, bonus hold 100k on speaker panel, one of the bowling pins and the kick back triangular one and 2 letters in millions. For a while the first four I mentioned worked but I have jiggled every wire and can't get them to come back on. I don't have the manual and the one on ipdb is not complete so I do not have a diagram of the mpu or power supply.

#34 3 years ago

Here's the lamp matrix for your game. Check if the non-working lights are in the same row or column.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Data_East_The_Simpsons_Tech_Chart.pdf

#35 3 years ago

I wound up replacing the connector on the cpu and all but 3 lights work now and they are random on the switch matrix. Thanks for that chart

3 weeks later
#36 3 years ago

I swapped out the light socket for one of the insert lights which is the kickback light. The light works but stays lit after the kickback is used and it should turn off. It goes on and off when in attract mode. Any ideas why it would not turn off when I hit the kickback?

#37 3 years ago

Make sure you wired it up the same way as the lamps in the same column lamps. Did you add a diode onto the new lamp socket?

#38 3 years ago

...oops

#39 3 years ago

So I checked the socket and definitely had it wired properly. It turns out I had a led in there and it was ghosting heavily so I put an incandescent in there and works fine now. I now have all inserts working properly from the three. Two bad sockets and the other one worked when I reflowed the solder on the diode, it was on a light board. Thanks for everybody's help, I have everything working properly on it now.

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