DE Rocky Bullwinkle won't start.

(Topic ID: 99926)

DE Rocky Bullwinkle won't start.


By F348

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 71 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by PinballManiac40
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 71 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from F348:

So what do you think bud? mind as well send it off?

If you don't feel up to continuing.

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from F348:

Today I pulled out the cpu from SW and fitted it in Rocky along
with the ribbons - still no dmd or flashing inserts, just GI light and
C3PO saying something I can't understand, never heard he saying that fraise befo

Have you measured all the fuses again in the backbox?

#53 4 years ago

It takes some seconds for a R & B to boot, have you waited some time ?
When it is booting, indeed the display nor the feature light work.

About the 3 leds on the MPU board; the start up sequence should be:

•PIA (Peripheral Interface Adaptor) and +5 volt LED turns on immediately.
•After about 1/2 second, the PIA LED turns off.
•Blanking LED turns on next.
•+5 volt and Blanking LEDs will stay on (until the game is turned off).

And "it's showtime" says that your soundboard is booting, nothing more or less.
When you boot the machine with open coindoor you'll hear some additional music to it.

2 months later
#54 4 years ago

Hello again guy's
Sorry for veeery slow reply, but I've been busy with other games, since I got a bit fed up with this Rocky problem....but now I have measured the transistors at the CN19 connector, all big TIP's seems to be in working order, BUT, Q3 on the pre-driver trans. I got "biiip" sound on the "Red ring side" and 170 reading on the "Blue ring side" all other pre-drivers measured ca 1600 on red ring side and ca 600 on blue ring side....

Could this be the source to my blown fuse problem????
I still dont have display either....

The LED's on CPU are OK, PIA went out after 1 sec....+5V and BLANK stayed on.

Thanks in advance
bvbvb.jpg

#55 4 years ago

Allright...
Latest update on my project machine,
I discovered that the battery holder was no good, so it's been replaced
with a new one. I've also replaced the Q3 pre-driver transistor, but I still haven't
fixed those wires under the playfield I had to cut to prevent the fuse to blow, so I cant
really tell IF the Q3 made the trick or not yet.

The display is back, so that's good...I guess...

But machine still dies after a couple of seconds...
Start...."it's showtime"
All GI lits + display
after 1 sec all the lights goes out and another sec later, the display goes out...

But I'm still stuck
PinballManiac40...I hope you're around in here somewhere bud

#56 4 years ago
Quoted from F348:

with a new one. I've also replaced the Q3 pre-driver transistor, but I still haven't
fixed those wires under the playfield I had to cut to prevent the fuse to blow, so I cant
really tell IF the Q3 made the trick or not yet.

You say you replaced Q3, but Q2 is shown to have circled which pins you were getting low ohms on. Was that just a reference of what you were comparing Q3 to?

What pop bumper was it that was locking on when you turned on the machine?

Seems my R&B is having a problem now too. I can see I don't have +5v LED on when my display goes out and my machine shuts down until 5 volts returns. I think we may have different problems.

I think you need to measure +5v and +12 volts when your machine is acting up.

#57 4 years ago

I've found when all else fails, just buy a new board. I've done that with 3 different boards in my R&B machine, and it works like a champ now (PSB, DMD, SSFB). Although I intentionally avoided Rottendog boards because there are so many horror stories about the shoddiness of those products.

#58 4 years ago

Yes, it just meant upper side and lower side,
it was the left bumper that kicked in during upstart of the machine,
I cut that wire, then the left sling shot kicked in, cut that one too...
and now there's nothing that kicks in when I start the machine, AND the
fuse lives to see another day....

It looks like to me that the machine loses it's power after a couple of seconds...

So if I have to measure +5 and +12 volts, then you have to guide me
step by step, cuz I've never done that before....

BTW, sorry to hear that you're having problems too
Hope you figure it out though

#59 4 years ago

It would be good to measure the voltages at the DMD power connector once the machine acts up.
5, 12, 68, -98, and -110VDC for the Dot Matrix Display

#60 4 years ago

I'm totally green when it comes to measure voltages
and I have no idea of what you're saying bud....

#61 4 years ago

PinballManiac40
Good news, problem "solved"
I swapped the LW3 cpu board + the eprom, then Rocky lit up like a christmas tree!
So obviously the problem is in the cpu somewhere, I'll try to resolder the connectors, and if that
dosent help, then I need to buy a new cpu for either the machines!

Thank you a million for all your help and inputs bud, I truly appreciate it!
Cheers!

#62 4 years ago
Quoted from F348:

PinballManiac40
Good news, problem "solved"
I swapped the LW3 cpu board + the eprom, then Rocky lit up like a christmas tree!
So obviously the problem is in the cpu somewhere, I'll try to resolder the connectors, and if that
dosent help, then I need to buy a new cpu for either the machines!
Thank you a million for all your help and inputs bud, I truly appreciate it!
Cheers!

Oh that is cool. I would stay away from Rottendog MPU boards.
I bet you could find another working good shape DE MPU off of Ebay for a little cheaper than RD board.

Good chance that you can use some freeze spray to make the board go good and heat gun to make it fail again. I would suspect one of the PIA (40 pin) IC's as the cause.

#63 4 years ago

My machine definitely is power supply related right now.

1 week later
#64 3 years ago

I just fixed my rocky and bullwinkle. It had a problem with 5 volts cutting out. Sometimes the game would not turn on either, and of course the DMD was out when the game acted up.

I think you need to replace the C2 also on the power supply as I had. This 100uf 25 volt cap leak and looked like there was solder flux under the capacitor. This is actually the internal of the cap leaked out. Bad part of this is that it eats up the trace and feedthrough below it. Replace with a 100uf either 50v or 100v cap.

3 years later
#65 5 days ago

Hi, i have a very similar problem as PinballManiac 40.... Has he fixed it with new CPU Board ?

Greets from Germany

#66 5 days ago
Quoted from fluxgold:

Hi, i have a very similar problem as PinballManiac 40.... Has he fixed it with new CPU Board ?
Greets from Germany

Problem I nrntioned was a power supply board failure, not the CPU board.

Do you have any of the 3 red LEDs on your CPU board?

#67 5 days ago

hi Brian , sorry i have the same problem as the guy from Norway F348 sorry .... i checked the power board voltages and They are ok ...

when booting up the light goes on and it comes "its showtime" then nothing happens anymore. Pia is on and 5v is on blanking is of ... very rare booting trys i come bit forward and the music comes. and the blanking light turns also on. sometimes the dmd show its revision for 2 seconds and go out again. and sometimes the Coles are locking and they smoke that i have to turn of the pinball. i checked voltages from power board - 5v comes to the cpu board and the voltages to the dmd display also seems ok ...

if i turn of all cables at cpu board just leaving 5v power cable then Pia and 5v is on and don't turn off. if i pull out the power from cpu board while its running then dmd display always go on and show rev and the it turns of. fuse f5 sometimes blow up .

i want to change the 5 PIAs and hope that it fixes the booting .... what do you think ?

#68 4 days ago
Quoted from fluxgold:

pull out the power from cpu board while its running

Unplugging a power connector from any board while a game is on is a potential for damaging a board.

Have you tried the CPU board in another game?

#69 4 days ago

well i just did that with the power of the cpu board of course ... its like switching it on and of. no i just have this pinball machine.

as i know from other postings - when i disconnect all cables from the cpu board and just let the power cable plugged in then it should boot normally. Pia +5v then blanking and Pia should go of. blanking and 5v should stay on. if its not booting correct then it should be damaged PIAs

#70 4 days ago
Quoted from fluxgold:

well i just did that with the power of the cpu board of course ... its like switching it on and of. no i just have this pinball machine.

I am in total disagreement on that. You are now sending more current elsewhere when you do this, especially if you have all the boards connected.

Quoted from fluxgold:

if i turn of all cables at cpu board just leaving 5v power cable then Pia and 5v is on and don't turn off. if i pull out the power from cpu board while its running then dmd display always go on and show rev and the it turns of. fuse f5 sometimes blow up .

Does the F5 ever blow out when you only ever turn the game on and off using the power switch? Or it is only when you disconnecting the power connector from the MPU?

#71 4 days ago

I actually would like to see a picture of your Power supply and CPU in 2 separate pictures.

Quoted from fluxgold:

i want to change the 5 PIAs and hope that it fixes the booting .... what do you think ?

I do not suggest that as more troubleshooting is needed. There are other parts I had seem cause the PIA to stay lit.

Did you connect the CPU board into another game with just the power connector and see the same boot up failure?

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