Check the batteries on the MPU board.
I had a R&B and was surprised to see that it would not boot
when the batteries were dead.....

John

Sounds like the game isn't booting completely, similar to problems i had on my MPU board until I replaced it.

Could be the power supply pcb. I think position c-2 is a known cap to go bad and result in a dead machine. Check all your test points for proper voltage.

This happened to me about a year ago - it turned out to be bad capacitors on the power board. I ended up replacing the whole board and now it works fine. Be warned: the other systems weren't accustomed to getting the proper power and the new board caused parts of the PPB to short out.

I put an X-pin PSB in mine and it worked perfectly. Definitely snag one of those if you have the means.

Yeah, I did replace my power supply as well with an xpin one.

Did you pull out and check the 2 fuses just below the power supply?

Internet pinball database has almost all SS manuals online, including for Data East.

http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=23

Go down to the Documentation section and you'll see the link to the full manual.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/23/Data_East_1993_Adventures_of_Rocky_and_Bullwinkle_and_Friends_Full_Manual.pdf

You mean the original power supply board when you said PBS ?

These will be attached to the back of the backbox above the big capacitors on the left.

Did you pull out and check the 2 fuses just below the power supply?

All the fuses on the PBB board (lower left board are good?)

Schematics on the attached link I had posted. I just can't view them at work. One of those IT things being blocked.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/23/Data_East_1993_Adventures_of_Rocky_and_Bullwinkle_and_Friends_Full_Manual.pdf

That sounds correct. Every company does not build things the same way.

Did you buy a LED DMD or a new old style plasma orange display?
If you bought a new old style plasma orange display, you can test it out in many of the games you have in your collection.

Well, looking at the DE power supply schematic on page 69 and on the Rottendog schematic
http://www.rottendog.us/DPS004.pdf Looks like the F5 actually is a 4amp fuse, not 5amp.

This would be 32volt power to the solenoids. You can see on the schematic that it goes out to CN3, so I suggest unplugging that connector and see what happens when you turn on the game. Does the game now have the DMD display working? Does the F5 still blow with the CN3 disconnected.

If F5 does not blow out when CN3 is disconnected, then I suspect you have a coil that locks on (or is already completely frozen closed). You can physically look at all the coils to see if you have any coil wrappers that are burnt/black. Sign that that coil is shot and a transistor on the MPU/CPU board has fried.

Also, can you take a picture of your whole MPU board when the game is on?

Not just want to look over the LEDs, but I want to look at the game ROM(s) and the jumper on the MPU to see what is selected. If someone changed the game ROM and do not have the right jumper setting, the game will not boot up.

I see you have a LW3, so you can swap the MPU boards and see what happens. Though, you still need to know the jumper setting, which should be listed in the manual(s).

Also take a picture of the DMD controller board on the back of the DMD speaker panel. There is 1 or 2 display ROMs on that board so depending on if you have one or two ROMs, jumper need to be on or off at R11. If this is configured wrong, nothing will be displayed on the DMD (assuming the DMD and DMD controller boards are good).

So after reading this F5 should not blow after removing CN3 and you should not hear any coils locked on when you turn on the game.

Then you can reconnect CN3 and lift the playfield and turn on the game briefly (one second each time) to hunt down which coil is locking on. Then you can either..
desolder the smaller guage wire from the coil that is locking on
or break off the transistor off the MPU that drives that coil that is locking on.

Once you stopped the coil from locking on then you should be able to continue to look at the DMD issue.

I suspect that the machine is not set on Free play and you will not be able to set that until you can get your DMD working. Though once you can turn on your game without a coil locking on, you can try to add coins and listen to see if you hear it adding credits. Add about 5 and I suspect you should be able to start a game even though you have no DMD display working at this time.

Issues I am reading you have are
Coil locking on when turning on a game and blowing out F5 on the power supply
DMD is blank
no insert lamps are flashing (no attract mode)

Once you stop the coil from locking on at power up, I hope the attract mode starts. Then you can add coins to see if you can start a game.

Cut only the smaller wire. The power is daisy chained to the other coils with the thicker wire.

OK. The DMD controller board is configured correctly.
Actually looks like the small ribbon cable to the CN1 of that DMD controller board is upside down.
Swap it over and see if the DMD starts working.

The CPU board actually is small jumper wire toward the middle of the board.

I cannot see the pop bumper paper wrappers at all on the bottom one, so you have to look underneath.
Good chance only the transistor is shorted (most of the time you will not be able to tell they are bad unless you check them with an ohmmeter.

oh bummer.. we are starting to make some progress.
At least he will get everything working for you at one time.

Up to you if you want to continue or take it in.

Well you certainly can use your LW3 to swap between to figure out the DMD problem.
Can be either ribbon cable, DMD controller board, the 2 pin red/black power connector to the DMD controller board, or the DMD.

Though it could be easier to start with trying the whole speaker panel out of the LW3 and connect it to power and the ribbon cable to the CPU board. Or you could just do one item at a time.

The 2 pin red/black power connector likely needs to be resoldered on the DMD controller board and the small ribbon cables are my first 2 suspected parts.

When I researched which brand of new PSB to get, I read a LOT of nightmare stories about those Rottendog PSBs causing all sorts of issues. I refused to buy one and instead held out for an X-pin.

So page 32, shows Q8 and Q11 are the two transistors you will want to check with an ohmmeter to see if they are shorted. I expect them to be.

Any luck with this game?

I just use the ohms and not a diode check to measure transistors. Pretty much looking for a difference compared to other TIPs in the other solenoids.

Eh, just go and change the associated transistors and get that thing working.

Where are you at with the machine right now?

The problem with your two coils would be Q8 and Q11.
Either check these against the others in the same row of transistors or just replace them.

I would just change them.

I seen transistors short in different ways.
Outer to outer, inner to one outer, or inner to the other outer.
You can use the regular ohm check with the 2k ohm setting to check for short. (Don't use the diode check for this.)

I just don't see it being anything other than these 2 transistors, so I suggest just changing them.

No. Separate problem. This is where you need to swap both ribbon cables at a time to the LW3 to help aid figuring out this issue. If not a ribbon cable, then would need to move on to possibly swapping the DMD controller board, then finally the DMD at last.

You could swap the whole speaker panel assemblies between the games first along with both ribbon cables if you wanted, since it can even turn out to be the MPU as the failure.

Yes, it would.