(Topic ID: 202027)

DE JP Power Supply Issues

By JDissen87

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by JDissen87
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders


Linked Games

#1 1 year ago

My Jurassic Park suddenly started taking 30+ seconds to completely power on sometimes.
When this happens, the GI comes on and then nothing for ~30s, then the DMD will power on and go into diagnostics for the T Rex. After that, I get sound maybe half of the time right away (queue to annoying T Rex roar that cuts off short during boot, normal from what I hear) and the other half of the time I have to wait until I'm in a game and it will randomly start playing sound again.
This doesn't happen every time, but its being more and more common.

My assumption is that some of the caps are going bad so I started making a list of what I would need from GPE when I found some inconsistencies.
The power supply in my JP is a 520-5047-01 Rev C and some of the caps do not match what is listed in the manual or what I have found on here.
-my C10 and C11 are 220uf 200v and the manual says 150uf 200v
-my C1 (oddly enough, C1 is labeled C4 on my board, along with the actual C4...yea 2 different C4s labeled on the board) is 1000uf 63v and the manual calls for 1000uf 25v
-The manual actually lists my board as being a 520-5047-02, yet my serial matched board is a -01 Rev C.

Power Supply snapshot (resized).jpg

I don't think the board has been modified or had anything replaced as far as I can tell.
Header pins are in good shape with no cold/cracked solder points or burnt pins.
CN8 header and connector was replaced by me a few years ago.

My Questions:
As for the Capacitors, any ideas what should be used for C10/C11 and what voltage rating should be used on C1?
Are capacitors the only thing I should be looking at or do I need to worry about any other components?


#2 1 year ago

Here's the list I used for my Crypt. Works great.

Data East Power Supply Board Cap/Component Kit
(TFTCrypt; PSB Part #: 520 5047 02)
This item number may be used in other games built the same 'model year'.
Replacement components were ordered from Great Plains Electronics. Note some items were 'upgraded'.

Description/Designation ---GPE Part #
C1 - 1000uF @ 25VDC ---CER-1000uF-25V (upg to 35V)
C2 - 100uF @ 25VDC ---CER-100uF-25V (upg to 63V)
C3 - 47uF @ 63VDC ---CER-47uF-100VDC-85degree C
C4 - 18000uF @ 25VDC ---CER-4700uF (X4)**
C7 - 330uF @ 25VDC ---CER-330uF-25VDC-85degree C
C8 - 150uF @ 100VDC ---CER-150uF-350VDC-RMD
C10 same as C8 --- " "
C11 same as C10/C8 --- " "
C14 - 22uF @ 25VDC ---CER-22uF-25VDC-85degree C

Other 5 VDC Circuit Needs:

TR5 - 2N6057 (obs) ---2N6284
IC1 - MC1723CP (obs) ---LM723CN

** On my board the 18000uF cap consisted of four 4700uF caps.

#3 1 year ago

As long as the nice looking Nichicon parts on your board are fairly new - I doubt the caps are your problem. Look for a 4-digit date code on them. First two digits are years are year, 2nd two digits are week of year. So an 0918 would be 18th week of 2009.

First place I would look is connectors. Some of the connectors you have in the photo look to be originals.

Oh -- and take a close look at the two small smallest electrolytic caps near the bridge rectifier/heat sink. Make sure they aren't leaking electrolyte.

#4 1 year ago

Thanks for the suggestions guys!
I'll check the date codes on the caps tonight.
I'm slightly concerned that C2 has started leaking. You can't see it in the picture above, but it appears to have a weird kind of sheen just around it. I'll look closer tonight and see if I need to replace it.

You're probably right on the connectors. I replaced the CN8 header about 3 years go when I bought the game as it looked more like charcoal than a connector. Since then its never had issues with anything (until now), but I should probably replace all those connectors at this point.

#5 1 year ago

Replace C2 at the least. I would bet this cap is your problem. This cap gets abused in this design.

#6 1 year ago

Change the caps Or just buy a rotten dog replacement . I had the almost exact same issue on a last action hero I was working on . I had two DE power supply's that had weak caps and was driving me crazy . I ended up buy a rotten dog and solved all the weird issues .

#7 1 year ago

That board looks to be in great shape. Focus on the small caps first and look all around C2 for corrosion. Those are part of a voltage doubler circuit and reside in a hot portion of the board. Not uncommon for those to fail and bugger your low voltage supply.

If you use gas discharge high voltage displays then I wouldn't replace it with the aftermarket board.

#8 1 year ago

Ok, so felt horrible yesterday thanks to post-op discomfort, but I'm back at it today.
I would rather fix this board than replace it with an aftermarket. I do what I can to keep original boards in the game when its possible. I just prefer it that way.

Here are caps and their dates:
C1 - 1000uf @ 25v - 10th week of 1989
C2 - 100uF @ 63v - 24th week of 1992
C3 - 47uF @ 63v - Illinois Capacitor, date code of 22
C4 - 4 x 4700uF @ 25v - all are 45th week of 1992
C7 - 330uF @ 25v - 14th week of 1991
C8 - 150uF @ 100v - Illinois capacitor brand, date code of 22
C10 - 220uf @ 200wv - 3rd week of 1993
C11 - 220uf @ 200wv - 4th week of 1993
C14 - 22uf @ 25v - 48th week of 1992
C15 - 22uf @ 25v - 48th week of 1992

So they all seem a bit old, other than C3 and C8 which I have no clue what a code of 22 means.
Bad news is that C2 is definitely starting to leak. There is some gunk around the top of its base and the trace off the top of the cap is darkened.
I definitely need to replace at least C2, but would it be best if I just replaced them all due to age?

I found everything on Great Plains Electronics except C8/C10/C11, although I'm not 100% sure what to use for those.
My board has C8 as 150uf @ 100v and C10/C11 at 220uf @ 200wv.
I think the manual calls for C8 to be 150uf @ 100v and for C10/C11 to both be 150uf @ 200v. Suggestions?

As for pin headers, I checked them all out. While they all appear to be in good shape, I'm thinking I should just replace them all as well. I want this board to be good to go for as long as possible. More playing, less working!

#9 1 year ago

Ordered all new caps, headers, connectors and pins tonight.
Hopefully by this time next week I'll have this board up and running again.

#10 1 year ago

Ok so I'm a little annoyed at this board now.
I removed all the caps last night and found a large issue and created another large issue.
The issue I found is that C2 had leaked badly. It leaked so bad that the traces on the top of the board immediately under the cap are basically gone.
When I went to clean the cap ooze off the board, the trace just washed away.
The issue I created is that when i removed C10, I nearly burnt my finger on my soldering iron, jerked my hand away and destroyed both through-holes for the cap and pulled the trace away from the top of the board.

All the parts to fix it before this came up are on order, but now I'm not sure if I should get the board repaired (chrishibler is 5 min away) or if I should just order a new XPin board and be done with it. I'll email Chris and see his thoughts. Seems like Jurassic Park may be out of order for a while.

1 week later
#11 1 year ago

Funny...Chris has my JP PS board right now. My issue goes back a while when I noticed the coils were all weak. Tried everything I could think of and nothing fixed it. One day, game wouldn’t boot and I found the game was missing 5v.

I knew it was probably c2 but to rule other items out on the board, I went ahead and ordered a rotten dog replacement. I’ll be damned...as soon as I put it in and fired it up, the ball shot out of the left scoop like a bat out of hell and the ball hasn’t required multiple fires from the VUK since installing the rd.

At least it’s playable now and I’ll prob sell the rotten dog after I get the original back or provide the original along with the game if I ever sell it. Hope you get yours worked out!

#12 1 year ago

Well I got my board back from Chris yesterday and got it back in the machine today. Replaced all the connectors and it played perfectly.Chris said that the C2 cap leaked and had basically completely eaten a trace and 2 diodes up. Once that was replaced, along with all the caps it worked just fine.

Quoted from tjprice222:

Funny...Chris has my JP PS board right now.

Chris mentioned he had a influx of JP boards recently. Hopefully yours is up and running soon as well.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from JDissen87:

Chris mentioned he had a influx of JP boards recently. Hopefully yours is up and running soon as well.

I do have TJ's. It's ready to ship.
His board had the same issue that your board did!
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#14 1 year ago

Avoid buying aftermarket boards. If it’s something you’re not comfortable with, send it to Chris or Jerry. Cost less than a suspect at best aftermarket.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Msch:

Avoid buying aftermarket boards. If it’s something you’re not comfortable with, send it to Chris or Jerry. Cost less than a suspect at best aftermarket.

I completely Agree. I do what I can to keep them the factory boards. You can't always do that, but I make a pretty good effort.
Thankfully Chris saved mine this time. I can handle basic component replacement, but trace repair is NOT something I want to get involved with.

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

His board had the same issue that your board did!

Must be something in the air. I should probably check my POTO now that I think of it...

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