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(Topic ID: 224294)

DE Hook right flipper low on power / not flipping


By harryhoudini

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by harryhoudini
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

  • Hook Data East, 1992

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0830181058 (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

This is a re-import game, I did the power conversion and everything but one trough switch and the right flipper worked, as far as I can tell. The flipper coil looked ok but it buzzed and didn't have enough power to actually move the flipper. The flipper manually moves just fine, didn't seem like the sleeve was causing any issue. I figured it was buggered so I bought a new coil and just installed it, same issue. If I give it a bit of pressure on the metal rod while holding down the flipper button it will move but won't do it on it's own and still it's down on power. Slight buzzing noise but probably nothing more than normal. The flipper board looks ok, fuses look fine and I assume I'd get no power if the fuse was blown. I am going to guess it has something to do with the flipper circuit, maybe a transistor that is going bad? I sort of looked at the schematic but I have a really hard time reading them. The board looks pretty basic so I am hoping someone can tell me which components to test and replace. Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

I'm new to this but I would guess it is the fuse clips on the flipper board. They are known to be weak and bend on Data East machines. Thus, the flipper only gets intermittent power. I had this happen on my Jurassic Park. Left flipper wouldn't fire but had power and you could hear a buzz. Fuse was loose on the board. It's holding together for now but new clips are on the way.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from newovad:

I'm new to this but I would guess it is the fuse clips on the flipper board. They are known to be weak and bend on Data East machines. Thus, the flipper only gets intermittent power. I had this happen on my Jurassic Park. Left flipper wouldn't fire but had power and you could hear a buzz. Fuse was loose on the board. It's holding together for now but new clips are on the way.

Thanks, I'll take a closer look!

#5 2 years ago

Oh thanks, I read on their about the flipper boards. I'll see if that can help.

#6 2 years ago

So I found a few things. First, the fuses all look good and the clips look and feel fine as far as I can tell. The LED light does light up with either flipper.

I did notice that Q3 was missing. Looks like it is a TIP36C, should I just replace it? Looks like it was clipped off even.

0830181058 (resized).jpg0830181058a (resized).jpg
#7 2 years ago

Before you do any soldering, be sure to check and clean the end of stroke switch on that flipper assembly. Unlike most systems, a dirty or broken EOS switch can kill or weaken the flipper on a DE game.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Before you do any soldering, be sure to check and clean the end of stroke switch on that flipper assembly. Unlike most systems, a dirty or broken EOS switch can kill or weaken the flipper on a DE game.

Oh, I meant to mention that... there is no EOS switch on this game. Am I missing something?

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Oh, I meant to mention that... there is no EOS switch on this game. Am I missing something?

No.

Data East did not start using EOS switches on the Deger-board games until Jurassic Park, where the Raptor kickback necessitated them.

So, yes, it is true for DE games that a broken or open EOS switch will make the flipper weak, it's not relevant for pre-JP DE games.

Your Hook never had EOS switches.

The DE flipper board gives a 50v kick and then switches to a 9v hold as long as you keep the button pressed in.

That is why there are two fuses per flipper; one is the 50v and the other is the 9v for each flipper.

If the 50v fuse is blown you are only getting the 9v hold voltage; Same issue if the fuse clips are weak or cracked and giving shitty contact.

RussMyers

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

So I found a few things. First, the fuses all look good and the clips look and feel fine as far as I can tell. The LED light does light up with either flipper.
I did notice that Q3 was missing. Looks like it is a TIP36C, should I just replace it? Looks like it was clipped off even.

Yes you will need the Q3. I'd test the diode/check wiring on that flipper to see if something would have fried the transistor (I can't imagine any other reason to clip it off)

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

No.
Data East did not start using EOS switches on the Deger-board games until Jurassic Park, where the Raptor kickback necessitated them.
So, yes, it is true for DE games that a broken or open EOS switch will make the flipper weak, it's not relevant for pre-JP DE games.
Your Hook never had EOS switches.
The DE flipper board gives a 50v kick and then switches to a 9v hold as long as you keep the button pressed in.
That is why there are two fuses per flipper; one is the 50v and the other is the 9v for each flipper.
If the 50v fuse is blown you are only getting the 9v hold voltage; Same issue if the fuse clips are weak or cracked and giving shitty contact.
RussMyers

Thanks!

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

Yes you will need the Q3. I'd test the diode/check wiring on that flipper to see if something would have fried the transistor (I can't imagine any other reason to clip it off)

Nothing else looks suspect but I'll test the left against the right components on the board.

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