(Topic ID: 100854)

DE Checkpoint ramp strengthening/improvement

By BMHouze

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by BMHouze
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#1 9 years ago

I recently picked up a DE Checkpoint at auction.
The ramp has been repaired and I can see why.
The upkicker launching the ball on to the ramp looks like it eventually cracked and then compromised the ramp.
I'm looking for some advice from some of you that may have had similar problems.
Initially I was thinking that some sheet metal could be placed in the area to take the brunt of the impact but wonder about the transition area possibly hanging up the ball from the up other ramp use.
I was also considering a cover for the upkicker outhole to slow the ball down as I could paint it like a checkered flag or even use a spare drop target sticker.
In a perfect world there would be lexan ramps available.
Thanks for the input,
Brad

#2 9 years ago

Ah Checkpoint...my second pf swap and second pin purchased. Fun game for the money. Any pictures of damage? I have pop rivet ed a few damaged ramps using off the shelf u shaped brackets. Ramps are extremely hard to find in good shape..I got a good used off of ebay so keep watch there and parts section of mrpinball.

#3 9 years ago

The previous owner used glue (brown) to repair and strengthen the area. looks terrible. Swap looks to be the only viable option. Just thinking I should do what I can to keep it from happening in the future.
As you said ramps are hard to find.
I may see if a local plastics company can do a one off (or 2-3 if they get cheaper) in a stronger material like Lexan.

1 month later
#4 9 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

The previous owner used glue (brown) to repair and strengthen the area. looks terrible. Swap looks to be the only viable option. Just thinking I should do what I can to keep it from happening in the future.
As you said ramps are hard to find.
I may see if a local plastics company can do a one off (or 2-3 if they get cheaper) in a stronger material like Lexan.

Lexan is pretty tough to form in the thickness needed for a ramp.... however, PETG would work very well. In a spectrum, acrylic being the least durable and Lexan being the most, PETG is right about n the middle. PETG is something like 7 times as durable as acrylic. I used PETG for the High Speed clear ramps.

#5 9 years ago

If there was a way to put a metal lip, like what Stern did for Tron, etc. it would be good. I'll have a real ramp soon to look at. Currently my game has half the ramp and then a hand made wireform to go from the vuk to the inner lane. BUT the ball falls out many times and gets stuck behind the flasher etc. so bad design, good idea.

#6 9 years ago

Lexan is my go-to material. We seem to have a lot of it lying around the maintenance area here at work. It's just a matter of finding the right sized piece. I already used a small scrap piece to cut a drop target cover plastic for a Bally Atlantis I had. I had to countersink the holes as the lexan was pretty thick. Being bulletproof (if thick enough) I figured it should hold up to a good punishment.
Otherwise it is pretty expensive.
Always an option to add a layer of bristol board to the high hit areas before vacu-forming to make the high traffic areas thicker/stronger.
Otherwise, not having a replacement ramp leaves my machine in the collection longer as the repaired ramp will get some nasty looks. Besides I have many other 'projects' on my Checkpoint (and some high scores to attain) before I ever consider letting it go.
Gotta admit it's a pretty fun game to play.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

Lexan is my go-to material

I like Lexan for plastic protectors or any clear ball guides you often find on machines. I use 1/8" and countersink the mounting spots for plastics. It also polishes very well. The problem with vacuum forming with Lexan is that the material can retain moisture. If that moisture is not removed (treated in an oven at 250 degrees for up to 40 hours), the material will bubble when heated to vacuum forming temperature. So I prefer to use PETG which does not have the moisture problem, is very durable and surprisingly flexible.

1 month later
#8 9 years ago

Install / Epoxy a PETG Bridge under the area of ramp where VUK drops ball on ramp. I then went back and added mylar inside ramp for smooth rolling of ball.

2 months later
#9 9 years ago

I used mylar and double sided speed tape to laminate it onto ramp. It's easy, and works like a charm. The Speed tape is used in the cabinet industry for laminating edge tape onto cabinets, it's very thin and very sticky, it's also clear so it doesn't make your ramp look like crap.

#10 9 years ago

I was informed the stuff they use for windshield repair would work well for cracks. My machine unfortunately has a fixed ramp with some duct tape underneath. It won't be fun to remove all that glue. Coupled with the chips at the ramp entry makes it worthy of replacement. I just hope that someone out there (cough, cough, Freeplay40) will be vacu-forming them in the near future (cough, cough, money burning a hole in my pocket)....
On the bright side it's been removed once so all the rivets are replaced by nuts and screws.

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