As a total noob in pin ownership and maintenance all feedback is hugely appreciated.

Having had my first pin (LW3) for some days now i have found a few oddities, it has a very nice play-field
and plays well except for a few things (the poppers kicks well but it is hard for the ball to activate, another post, and) the right slingshot shows a few oddities.

Usually in game play it fires seldom. in game diagnostics it fires all the time, in self test of 'missing ball' it fires all the time (but rarely when manually closing the triggers), when ball is locked in guns fires when triggers are closed, some times it fires fairly well during game play.

The coil kicks well when it fires.

Where to start? What could be the fault?

(see attached video)

Thanx for reading
/Micael

Its not that simple, they are aprox 1-2mm apart, thanx anyway.
Sometimes the obvious are overlooked.

Thx, first fix ill try to apply when i get to my pin

I will also double check this first

Ok, im back for some more, much needed guidance. I have checked the two easy things today, the switch gap and the oxidation on the (the business card trick) switch surfaces. All good to go, but still no response.

I did a thorough diagnostics and only found two bad lamps and three flashers plus the right slingshot switches
The coil fires in diagnostics, so nothing bad there. The slingshot switch is the only non working in its row & column in diagnostics (so that indicates that the boards are all fine and dandy, right?)

I measured with a multimeter (beep on ohm setting) the following (see image)

1-2 - circuit closes when manually pressing the switch together
3-4 - same as above
1-3 - circuit is closed
2-4 - same as above
right_slingshot_ass.png

As a non electrician i would appreciate some detailed help of how and what to do next in my fault finding quest.
I assume the problem would lie some where along the green-black or white-blue wiring (a short?). How do i measure? what to look for?, what settings to use in the multimeter?

What is the "thing" just below "4" connecting 4 and white-blue wires? What is it for/does it do? If its faulty, how do i measure to figure that out?

Sorry for all the questions, but im all new to every aspect of pin-balling and i am eager ti learn it all.

Thanx for reading
/Micael

Do I understand you correct if I should do a continuity check between the point at the switch and the point at the MPU board to see if the circuit is working the whole length of wire?

To clarify: The following Switch Matrix Chart is the result of my diagnostics test.

switch-matrix-chart.png

/Micael

Edit: i realized that i did not test the two tilt switches and there are no "left coin" or "4th coin installed"

When measuring over the diode it felt a little "spongy", a closer exam gave that the leg was broken and loose at the solder point, giving contact once in a while.
2013-11-19 20.06.25.jpg
That was the cause of the odd behavior. A solder later and the sling now works like a charm. A test-game later made me feel like the poppers has become a bit more sensitive as well, not so lazy (as described in one of my other posts) is it imaginary or could the faulty diode solder affect the poppers behavior?

Thanx a lot for the great support and directions of what/how to move forward. Its invaluable for noobs like me.

/Micael