Lethal Weapon 3
Data East, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider trueno92.
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Question for chad. How do we know if we need the 3.01 rom? Is it only possible to know by trying the v3.00 set first?
Would it be possible to get a wizard mode? Complete all video modes and start multiball after the helicopter scene with Super Lethal Weapon mode enabled and super spinners, and super pops all tied to double jackpot countdown timer?
@ chad, no hope of getting a version of the rom with super stunt mode giving the player multiball? Would there be a way at modifying the current super stunt routine to run longer and have the ramp shots scoring double jackpots until multiball runs out?
Wow, that lw3 is the most legit homage to lw3 i have ever seen. And i look at a lot of pins!!
What i gotta ask is, WHERE DID YOU GET THE EXPLODING TOILET??? OMG I NEED VIDEO OF THIS GAME IN ACTION!!!
For the leds on the uzi, i took some inspiration from the lastest avengers table and think it turned out pretty good.
20201003_150353 (resized).jpgTo get more people excited for this, i have recorded some play with the new ChadH roms so ppl can see the differences in game play with the new refinements.
Need to get my Pin2dmd but it won't stop me from donating to Malenko's fine artistic dot art!!
Toned down the settings in chads code in some adjustments. Plays a bit more like the lw3 we all know but with a bit more refinement and forgiving ball saves.
Check out the vid in 60fps 1080p!! Happy to take more if anymore is looking for any specific changes!!
one is the display version, the other is the system version. 2.08 was the most recent until Chad released 3.00 unofficial.
ur game is playing normal. maybe its the LEd flashers that are blinding you. You can try subbing in traditional bulbs for flashers or leaving 1/2 of the sockets empty if its too much?
Quoted from Parkshow30:Just traded for a Lethal Weapon 3 so I’m in the club.
I’m looking at Matt’s Basement Arcade for Chads updates ROM set and there are two options, how do I know which one to get?
I have Chads code on my Hook and it really makes that game shine, hows the updates code on this game? I’ve played a few games already and it seems pretty good as is.
get 3.01. yah, he should really just take the old v3 off.. im running 3.01 and its operating normally.
Quoted from Malenko:I have both games, similar layout but play way different. I used to think T2 was WAYYYYYYYYYY better but now.... I actually am starting to prefer LW3. T2 is the better theme and has the cannon shot. But LW3 basically has 3 video modes (flashing eyes on video sequence, shooting range, and shoot out with the bad guy) and is much flashier.
++ fight mode w/flipper buttona.
But a lot of pin players dont get excited about video modes although i think it adds to the overall presentatiom of the game as a whole... and agree on tje flashiness... thats DE just heing DE.
Quoted from Malenko:Agreed, great theme integration. I also thought the shootout was neat too, because it happens while the ball is in play.
I wasnt sure if I was gonna count that one, because what's on screen doesn't matter. But I think you are right considering that a 4th video mode.
Maybe you can redraw those screens to make them matter 
Players eyes got no where to go but here when they are smacking the machine as fast as they can!
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from ChadH:That "Participate In Local Tournaments" picture does not look perfect to me.
Good eye. I totally thought it was the reflection until i looked closer.
It is prob gassed out but dont notice it while in play.
That was mwong168 that had the displays but i tjink he is all out now.
Pin2dmd would be an amazing option as Malenko helped complete the entire colourization of all the frames so it looks top shelf.
Dinoz on pinballrevolution.com can help you out. His pricing is the most reasonable, he is very helpful, knowledgeableand supports his work well. Actually ill pm u his contact info.
Power supply board failed during multiball on my lw3 and took out f1 7a slo blo fuses...
I learned a lot about bridge rectifiers... gonna replace it and get to c2,c3,c7 on this and my rocky and bullwinkle power supply boards...
Bridge rectifier failed, picked up the 3506 and it sorted it, the original was on the board. Pro tip: cut the legs off the BR, else the heatsink on the br absorbs the heat off the iron and id rather reduce the time the iron is on the board traces.
Screenshot_20210111-123852_Chrome (resized).jpg
Red dot and black dot indicate which probe to put on each leg. You should see between 400-600 values on your meter. If you see 0.00, its time to replace.
My game does not have a hole for a post thats predrilled.
My guess is someonr tried to make this MORE like T2 and diy a center post.
There have been a few games reported with a post so maybe some distributors chose to add it.
Quoted from trueno92:My game does not have a hole for a post thats predrilled.
My guess is someonr tried to make this MORE like T2 and diy a center post. T2 was advertised to have the post as removable and it came uninstalled with a rubber hole plug.
There have been a few games reported with a post so maybe some distributors chose to add it.
Quoted from bowtech:So was scheduled to pick up a lw3 tomorrow and the seller contacted me and said out of the blue now the game turns on, gi's light up but the game will not boot. willing to offer at a discount but any thought on whats happening? not really looking to get into a project.
Most likely one of these:
Small prob (1hr max)
Prob 5v bridge rectifer, c2 on power board, reseat game rom, or reseat 6264 ram.
Big prob
Batteries leaked on mpu
Quoted from bossk4hire:Ah ok! Guess that is a needed part hahahha.
There are bass shaker modules and i know lw3 makes some big booming noises when it plays the triball intro.
Ill eventually look into getting one of these spliced inline to my game and power it off the service plug or 12v...
Quoted from bowtech:how hard is the bridge rectifier to check and replace? he is 2 hrs away. also he checked and said no battery damage to boards
I think you would need to remove the powerboard and make sure u can solder in a new one.
A new BR is like.. $1.
Talk him down closer to 2k. Without a mpu boot, u cant test anything, so you dont know if the PPB or flipper boards are good.
Get pics of all the coils to see what shape they are in, in case they were burnt.
Best case, that plug needs reseating
Next best, 5v section refresh with br and c2 'cap
Worst case, maybe a couple hrs of tracking down anything if stuff doesnt work like launcher or vuk and replacing a couple TIP36c on the ppb...
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Same here! Had never played it or really even heard of it back in the day when any of these were new. Learned on it as an owner and I gotta say, I like it. Fun modes and gimmicks and animations with tricky but not impossible shots and things to progress through. I'm sure if this wasn't the covid-era and I could have people over to play it, they'd enjoy it too!!![quoted image]
Nice line up! A fellow Canadian that knows the struggle of pinflation north of the US border!!!
My kids messing last night.
20210128_203802 (resized).jpgQuoted from bowtech:Picked up my lw3 today and first problem we see is sb .5 fuse blows on start up and then we hear a relay click and nothing happens. Where should I go from here?
Where is the fuse? Whoch board?
Do this, but on a diode on a board.
Note everything in this really poorly shot image.
Black on banded side of diode, red on other side of diode. Meter on continuity/diode test, indicated with that triangle line logo. You are looking for a value of 0.4xx - 0.6xx.
If you see 1, the diode is not working anymore.
This diode test is extremely handy for data east games as all the switches, lamps and coils all have diodes on them, so if u start seeing lamps out, when the bulb is known-good or switches triggering when they should not be, coils locking on at power on, then start diode hunting.
Quoted from bowtech:The Death Star is now operational. Thanks to all who chipped in to help. Everything came back to the PCB, I removed it and looked at it and saw work had been done to it. I also noticed burn spots on the back box that seemed on. Instead of firing the parts cannon at it I decided to let a professional look at it so I took it to Clay and he had it up and running in an hour. According to him the previous repairs were made by someone not fully qualified and turns out they did not trim the transistors they replaced and we're shorting against the back box. He had me up and running and so far this game is great.
On a side note my DMD is missing a line of text so if anyone is selling one please let me know.
Great Pin2dmd colorization is hand drawn by Malenko, if u can source a Pin2dmd display. Looks great, too
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from AlexRogan84:Looks good in colour!!
Looks amazing. Im so tempted.
Waiting for cpupons from pcbway....
Quoted from Malenko:https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B9cWp45XToh2d2ZGUWk5NGE4eDQ
files are there^
1.75 is compatible with all rom versions, there is a slight issue with the new high score scroll with the chad roms, theres a blue shadow I need to take care of.
This version also replaces tri-ball with multiball on all versions.
Alexrogan84, can you make a video capturing your play thru of malenkos work? The changelog from 1.60-1.75 looks substantial
This is interesting as i put a red stern dmd in my rnb and i saw some double lower horizontal lines on my display. Notably on the outside window and double underlining of some fonts.
I just thought my dmd had an issue because it already had a line out....
Quoted from Blamer:chad have you got a list of the new Audit & Adjustments according to latest 3.01 version?
Thanks
Quoted from prl867:I traded mine away a few days ago for a Dr. Dude (I added some cash).
I kinda miss it. It’s a very fun and underrated game. I’ll probably own one again eventually.
What Leo wants.......
Damn is dr dude worth so much now?
Of a similar era, i had a really clean rocky and bullwinkle and traded it for a nascar.
Quoted from ChadH:(whispering) pssst... hey... over here...
https://www.pinballcode.com/lw300
Quoted from ChadH:(whispering) pssst... hey... over here...
https://www.pinballcode.com/lw300
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from bushav:It’s from Eastwood. I don’t have the code with me but it’s a single coat product. My limitation at the moment is the oven size. I bought a double oven for $100 and haven’t had time to modify it into a single larger oven. I will still not have enough space for the side rails. I’m considering just using the guts and fabricating a 4 x 4 x 6 oven. The only reason I hesitate is because of the space it will take up in the shop. Powder coating has turned out to be fun and rewarding. Striping the parts of the old coating is not so much fun
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window.__mirage2 = {petok:"2e1f8e6bb942017a915d9b4fc6b270210935eb67-1638370515-1800"};
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There could be a lot of money in your services if you start taking on chroming Demolition Man handles.
See how durable the chrome lasts on reassembly/usage, currently to rechrome 4 pcs of pot metal for dm handles is like $400 and a 6 month wait.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I would recommend saving an old boards and selling them to someone who wants to fix them (nothing really beats rebuilding the Originals) or sell them with the game when you sell it. I always appreciate getting the old boards with a game even if they don’t work at the moment!
My LW3 is having some sound issues. The game constantly says “we’re back in action!” over and over again while attempting to play the music. The music cuts in and out or sometimes totally disappears but the sound and noises all remain.
Where should I start looking, or does anyone know what the issue is? For reference this game is bone stock, been on route it’s entire life and never had any upgrades or rebuilds. I repinned half the burnt connectors already, but otherwise it’s been a tank.
reset all settings, pull batteries, reseat sound roms and make sure that sound board is getting the 5v and other voltages, check the harnesses leaving from the psu
i don't mind original boards but generally, they are hacked up a bit by the time is thrown our way and need a good eye to understand and undo what was done to make them 'better than new'. New boards are redesigned with modern components and work great for the most part. most horror stories i have read/seen are a result of a new board but forced to play nice with other tweaks in the machine that are not factory.
Quoted from wamonkey:That likely won’t solve his voltage problem…he need the new DMD
if his voltage issue is with the HV section, then he can totally pull the fuse on those rails and run a pin2dmd.
I did this with a demolition man for a while and a stern red low-voltage dmd and its a non-issue..
in fact i pulled all the hv fuses from my games that are running LED dmds.
wow, thats a lot of work if you want to practice your thru-hole component pulling lol.
heck you could even take the voltage inputs, run a williams/bally dmd board and just steal the HV section and run the HV outputs direct to a DMD display...
pretty sure its been done more than once... run it to a rottendog b/w dmd board as it runs way cooler....
OR, you can just run a pin2dmd. pulling the fuses optional.
Quoted from jamex:Finally after 11 years of Research, I managed to find the original dome not broken[quoted image]
That had to have been expensive!! It is super rare.
Quoted from jamex:It's absurd but I found it from a guy who lives 1 hour from my house at a cost of 40 euros (about 45 dollars), there are a few superficial scratches but it is perfect
Keep it nice!! Mine had an original but it was dented and cracked at the very very top and not visible when the head is up.
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:I always thought something hand drawn and slightly more 'cartoony' would look cool. A style similar to Taxi translite. Not a big fan of a giant photo of an actor's face as the focus of a translite. I'd definitely consider swapping mine out if a better one existed. Like removing the two big faces, leaving the rest and replacing the space with more references to the movies.
del
OKOKOKOKOKOKOKOK!!!!!
A NEW TRANSLITE FOR LETHAL WEAPON 3!!
Just like my NASCAR or LAH, these are printed on premium backlit mylar stock, with UV resistant inks.
WHAT LEO WANTS, LEO GETZ!!!!
im playing with something like this - IIRC the author of the most recent rom update wished something that the LW3 was just titled LW, so thats what i wanted to do here.
if you are interested in finally giving LW3 a much needed facelift, shoot me a PM. If you guys are old-school like me, you will notice GUNS are 150% the theme to this buddy-cop genre of movies!
I'M GETTING TOO OLD FOR THIS!
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