Lethal Weapon 3
Data East, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider bowtech.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
So was scheduled to pick up a lw3 tomorrow and the seller contacted me and said out of the blue now the game turns on, gi's light up but the game will not boot. willing to offer at a discount but any thought on whats happening? not really looking to get into a project.
Quoted from trueno92:Most likely one of these:
Small prob (1hr max)
Prob 5v bridge rectifer, c2 on power board, reseat game rom, or reseat 6264 ram.
Big prob
Batteries leaked on mpu
how hard is the bridge rectifier to check and replace? he is 2 hrs away. also he checked and said no battery damage to boards
Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:Impossibly hard to guess how costly or simple a problem might be to fix until it can be diagnosed first hand. If you really want a LW3, willing to spend to fix it and the price is good then buy it.. sounds like it might already be going cheap!
asking 2400
Quoted from bossk4hire:Ouch... I mean I love seeing the LW3 pins are going up in price. I got mine 4 years ago, mint shape and working for 1,700. Maybe get em down a bit?
Playing field is nice but the cabinet has some damage, chunks missing
Quoted from trueno92:Yah chdck my edited post above.
If chunks of the cab are missing, its not too bad to repair, but af $2400? I think better games float around that price, no?
He said he would drop to 1800
Quoted from gdonovan:Without more info, $1500-$1700 the sweet spot I think. Your call though.
I dropped the ball, made snap decision early and backed out and then told him I changed my mind but he moved on. Live and learn......now I have l3 on the brain and want one. Up to this point didn't even know it existed. Lol
Quoted from gdonovan:They always seem to be coming down the pike so don't fret.
Second buyer flaked out. Heading tomorrow to get the game. Fingers crossed I can figure it out. Lol.
Quoted from gdonovan:Not to worry, can walk you through it!
Thanks guys, definitely not a electronic wiz but willing to learn
Quoted from trueno92:Where is the fuse? Whoch board?
Psb, .5 amp, fuse 7. Disconnecting c1 stops that but only g.i and back box lights work then
Quoted from trueno92:Check diode d5 on the power supply board. Problem is with HV section of psb.
Keeping in mind I am a moron, how do i test it and what should I look for?
Quoted from trueno92:Do this, but on a diode on a board.
Note everything in this really poorly shot image.
Black on banded side of diode, red on other side of diode. Meter on continuity/diode test, indicated with that triangle line logo. You are looking for a value of 0.4xx - 0.6xx.
If you see 1, the diode is not working anymore.
This diode test is extremely handy for data east games as all the switches, lamps and coils all have diodes on them, so if u start seeing lamps out, when the bulb is known-good or switches triggering when they should not be, coils locking on at power on, then start diode hunting.
[quoted image]
This is what I get.
20210130_173545 (resized).jpgQuoted from trueno92:Still within spec.. hmm keep hunting, dmd known good?
Was working in the video of game play he sent to me. Not sure but still blows fuse with it all unplugged. Also blows fuse with all the other boards unplugged
Quoted from trueno92:Power up woth all the lamps outputs, ppb board outputs disconnected.
If it blows with all the power supply's outputs disconnected it would be the bridge rectifier on PS.
Do I disconnect all of those and leave the cn1 connected?
Quoted from trueno92:Also disconnect c1
The fuse only blows with cn1 connected. If i disconnect it and power on the fuse does not blow with all the other connectors seated on the board. As soon as cn1 is connected it blows, disconnected it does not blow.
Quoted from trueno92:Ok good. Bridge rectifiers on the power should be good then.
Check c1 header and pin connectors. Problem is with high voltage section.
Also do a visual inspection on capacitor c3 on power board.
Will do. I did remove the pb and looked at it, looking like it has been worked on before. Don't see much with the connector and the pins looked ok on the board, I'll check c3 and report back.
Quoted from trueno92:C3 has a habit of leaking and gravity pulls the goop down directpy over tje HV section.
Do a good visual arounr that left section below the heatsink.
Hoping u find somethiing suspect.
It looks ok to me....
20210131_080945 (resized).jpgThe Death Star is now operational. Thanks to all who chipped in to help. Everything came back to the PCB, I removed it and looked at it and saw work had been done to it. I also noticed burn spots on the back box that seemed on. Instead of firing the parts cannon at it I decided to let a professional look at it so I took it to Clay and he had it up and running in an hour. According to him the previous repairs were made by someone not fully qualified and turns out they did not trim the transistors they replaced and we're shorting against the back box. He had me up and running and so far this game is great.
On a side note my DMD is missing a line of text so if anyone is selling one please let me know.
Quoted from trueno92:Glad u got it sorted, cant believe it was shorting.. make sure those leads are cut.
Clay removed all the misinstalled and shorted parts and got it up and running
Quoted from Nelsonford218:So I've been working on this lethal weapon 3. I ordered a flipper rebuild kit from pinball life and the new plunger is an 1/8 inch longer than the ones in it now, making the range of motion shorter. Can anyone confirm if the range of motion on the flipper is correct? Left flipper is rebuilt, right flipper is with the parts that were in it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This makes me a little nervous as I just ordered that kit last night to go with some new coils.
Quoted from Nelsonford218:Well, got this lw3 put back together and all the boards back in after being sent off and gone through. Wasnt working at all when I got it. Turns on, and everything works except the flippers and ball launch. When you hit the launch or flipper buttons it puts a 2nd ball in the shutter lane. If you remove the balls in the shooter lane and hit the flipper buttons, it shoots the ball launch solenoid really softly! Any ideas? Wiring looks good and all fuses are right and good. Flipper board issue?
Make sure you are only using 3 balls. It's a 3 ball game. Any more will double launch.
Quoted from Nelsonford218:I see the grommet, but my issue is it seems like the flippers dont have much travel. They are adjust above the dots and they still dont flip up much. I just feel like they should have more range of motion and flip up higher
Any luck figuring this out?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I agree this seems odd, yet mine is pretty much the same. I don't feel like it's wobbly, but the rear levellers are almost entirely out and the fronts are pretty much entirely in... and still it seems to only get it to 6 degrees or a little bit more.
I'm interested in what other LW3 owners have to say here too.
Just seems like it's too far out. My Stern's are definitely not that far out to get to 6.5 degree
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider bowtech.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dataeast-leathal-weapon-3-lw3-club-join-if-you-have-one-or-haf-one?tu=bowtech and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Lambertville, MI