Wrong thread
Have a Lethal weapon 3 playfield for sale.
This was going to be used for wall art in my basement but I don’t have anywhere to hang it.
$215 plus shipping in the US $60.
Pm me if interested.
091A7CD3-4016-4551-A32A-4A1C8CB1C4E2 (resized).jpeg934BF871-7388-4F67-B413-5BD85E8D571F (resized).jpegA5DE07B9-A983-42C3-9530-AA076A0FF180 (resized).jpegMoving on to Chad's V3.01 and 3.0 on display roms.
LW3 has 2 IC's for display but didn't have these model on hand, so I merged the 2 files patched with IPS and burned it on a 4Mb IC 27C040
Cut off 0ohm dipswtch R11 (display board) on 1 side.
When i put both chips in (U12 for display rom). It just says back in action and nothing happens and no display.
filename i used lw3drom-singlerom.a26
Added 15 months ago:SOLVED : display file was corrupt
Strange issue with lamps...
Extra ball never lits up, not in game or attract mode... same for other lamps (see pic; lowest bullet, bullet proof vest, bonus hold, lethal weapon 10m, leo getz, video mode)
Played with sockets and cleaned them up, no effect.
Played with wires of extra ball socket and when i jumper it, it lights up, as well as all the others ! so socketwise nothing wrong.
But they should of course not always light up but only when something has been done/reached in game...
I took jumper wire off and back to square 1
suggestions?
IMG_5769 (resized).jpgIMG_5773 (resized).jpgQuoted from kba78:Looks like you have a row out ( row 8). Transistor Q79 on the CPU
[quoted image]
Yep, had closer look at cables, no prob, closer look at connector, no prob.
Reseated it... fixed .
Sometimes it's so stupid... already resoldered stuff and cleaned all sockets...
thx
Been through the settings and don't see anything that can change the ball save time. Seems as if mine will go out as soon as you fire the ball. Any changes that can be had?
Quoted from Bax1:Been through the settings and don't see anything that can change the ball save time. Seems as if mine will go out as soon as you fire the ball. Any changes that can be had?
With the stock code, I believe the ball save only lasts for four switch hits. Chad's code adds a standard 10 second ball save.
Quoted from gweempose:With the stock code, I believe the ball save only lasts for four switch hits. Chad's code adds a standard 10 second ball save.
Hmm. I only get one switch hit and it goes off.
Quoted from Bax1:Hmm. I only get one switch hit and it goes off.
I think with the original code you got 4 hits. With the latest official code it's one hit which sucks. That's what I've got on mine. I still have the older roms but there was something else I didn't like about that version that made me stay with the one.
There's also some custom roms out there that deal with this also I think.
My LW3 has always been a pain in my ass.
Sometimes the audio would just explode to max volume out of nowhere. Sometimes it would cut out completely or just repeat the “Back in action” over and over.
The DMD would fire up, but only after a couple power cycles. Sometimes it would go garbled after a bit, other times it would cut right out and not come back on until a power cycle.
I figured this all came down to a bad power supply, so I order up a new xpin unit. I swap it over just now and well… not much difference.
Took a couple cycles to get the dmd fully rolling.
Volume is way high, and only way to then it down is to rotate the volume knob the opposite way!?
When i get a game going the audio clips hard, i must have something backwards.
Anyone else with a LW3 + XPin power supply that could post a photo which I could cross reference?
Thought this would be a silver bullet, anyone have any suggestions!?
I would test the volume pot. remember to unplug the game when doing this due to the voltage is still hot under that box when plugged in. you will get a good zap. On my LAH, mine was consistently saying the start up sounds and during the game would say random things. I traced it down to the pia on the mpu. need to go into test mode and then with logic probe, see if the legs of that audio pia is pulsing.
instead of just changing the power supply, you should have checked the voltages first. that way you don't go buying a board you really didn't need. I do recommend rebuilding any data east power supply though. There are a couple caps that are notorious for leaking a little.
How do you test the volume pot?
I've read about keeping and rebuilding the boards being the best option, but the truth is I have very, very little knowledge in working on electronics. Working with a DMM would need to be spelt out step for step, so that's why I figured $150 is a far less painful way to nuke my problems!
New Xpin board. Anything stand out?
IMG_6156 (resized).jpg
Rottendog board. Are there any specific chips or cables that I should reseat? I've tried wiggling them all and didn't notice any cause/effect while doing so.
IMG_6155 (resized).jpg
Alright boys, how we lookin’ here?
9B482981-A98E-46B0-B2A8-09CD33DB1953 (resized).jpeg
That yellow crud seems suspect, is there a certain way to clean it up?
How do I go about testing this thing? Why would a new power supply all of a sudden cause the volume knob to work in reverse!? Clockwise should turn it up, not counter clockwise…Right?
Hi all, I'm picking pop a LW3 this weekend and was hoping to see some pics/links of peoples apron cards and side blades if you have installed either and are happy with them. Has anyone here installed cabinet decals with success and have pics? I just put new cabinet and side blade decals on a Bally Atlantis and I can't believe how much nicer the machine looks. Thanks, looking forward to getting to know this machine!
Anyone know what plug I’m looking for to match this pin header?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-10862-04
9FF3FD5D-4944-4D56-82ED-6B87083B15B3 (resized).png
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Anyone know what plug I’m looking for to match this pin header?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-10862-04
[quoted image]
Pretty standard Molex .156 4 pin
Molex 09-50-3041 this will do.
Quoted from Joshjowen:Hi all, I'm picking pop a LW3 this weekend and was hoping to see some pics/links of peoples apron cards and side blades if you have installed either and are happy with them. Has anyone here installed cabinet decals with success and have pics? I just put new cabinet and side blade decals on a Bally Atlantis and I can't believe how much nicer the machine looks. Thanks, looking forward to getting to know this machine!
Ordered the blue side blades from retrorefurb. Shipping is taking forever but ill post pics when I have them installed.
This has probably already been asked in some form in the past, but with DE pins (LW3 in particular) is there a way to somehow incorporate a female headphone jack to the sound board before it hits the amplifier so you could theoretically use headphones or use an auxiliary amplifier or subwoofer without blowing it out?
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:This has probably already been asked in some form in the past, but with DE pins (LW3 in particular) is there a way to somehow incorporate a female headphone jack
I would just get a pinsound board really....would sound way better, you can load custom tracks. Etc...
https://www.pinsound.org/machine/lethal-weapon-3/
--Chris
I have a tiltaudio board in mine. That also has a headphone jack output. Definitely more of a diy solution than a pinsound but much cheaper.
Quoted from Joshjowen:Hi all, I'm picking pop a LW3 this weekend and was hoping to see some pics/links of peoples apron cards and side blades if you have installed either and are happy with them. Has anyone here installed cabinet decals with success and have pics? I just put new cabinet and side blade decals on a Bally Atlantis and I can't believe how much nicer the machine looks. Thanks, looking forward to getting to know this machine!
I received vinyl wrap off EBay. Worked great on my restoration. Cabinet art work was horrible prior to my attention. I painted cabinet with proper blue color prior to applying vinyl. It gave me a better base for adhesion.
F07813B2-E3A8-4390-8AFD-870802CC2C04 (resized).jpegLooks like itnreally pops!
I want to do mine some time soon!
Also! I have quickly exchanged messages with CPR owner and he says he has the art ready for a playfield repro however I suspect LE3 is low on the totem pole.
If there is some traction, i am willing to collect a list of people interested and go back to cpr and say “hey, look” let’s go!
I am also thinking of doing my cab with retro refurb decals but in Black as I think it will killer and different!
What do u guys think?
Quoted from bushav:I received vinyl wrap off EBay. Worked great on my restoration. Cabinet art work was horrible prior to my attention. I painted cabinet with proper blue color prior to applying vinyl. It gave me a better base for adhesion.
[quoted image]
Looks great. Was this the Classic Arcades cabinet decals off Ebay? I just did an Atlantis using their decals and it looks great... looks like I'll have to do the same with the LW3 I just picked up. I've got a lot of cabinet repairs to do first tho. Could you share the blue paint code you used? Thx
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Looks like itnreally pops!
I want to do mine some time soon!
Also! I have quickly exchanged messages with CPR owner and he says he has the art ready for a playfield repro however I suspect LE3 is low on the totem pole.
If there is some traction, i am willing to collect a list of people interested and go back to cpr and say “hey, look” let’s go!
I am also thinking of doing my cab with retro refurb decals but in Black as I think it will killer and different!
What do u guys think?
I like the blue and think that's actually different! So many cabs are black, this blue pops in a lineup.
Has anyone tried the "Acrylic Backglass" from Ministry of Pinball? I need a translite and was thinking of trying this.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/lethal%20weapon%203%20acrylic%20backglass.html
Quoted from Joshjowen:I've got a lot of cabinet repairs to do first tho. Could you share the blue paint code you used? Thx
Feel free to compare against input from others, but I found this somewhere online (possibly here on Pinside) and documented it in case I ever do cabinet repair myself.
Behr Marquee
Base: MQ333
Semi-Gloss
CLRNT: DL: EL: JL: KXL:
------ --- --- --- ----
07 0 0 0 0
384th 41 238 22 128
Application:
------------
Cab top and back fine foam roller, the rest was done with brush. 1/2" slant cut for the rough in and a number 0 for around
the smaller details. All brush strokes done along the grain of the wood so it blends in.
So I've been giving my LW3 a little TLC lately, and I've got a couple issues that I figured I'd see if I could get some feedback on from here:
1) I'm not even sure if this is an issue, but looking for verification. I rebuilt my flippers today and while testing I noticed some odd behavior with the gun. When you're in the middle of a game and any mode starts that requires gunfire (movie scene, shootout, video mode, etc), when I pull the trigger it's activating the plunger solenoid. Now I might be crazy, but I'm positive this has never happened before today...it was a noticeable change. It doesn't happen mid game when the trigger does nothing, only in mode when the trigger is required. I started looking around thinking maybe wires were touching after putting the playfield back down, but they're inches apart. After thinking about it, I started thinking maybe that was normal and it wasn't working before. It does actually more or less simulate a gunshot now as there's like a force feedback. So I'm looking to see if anyone can confirm the behavior of their gun.
2) I have an issue with weak flippers, which I primarily notice due to the fact that it's very difficult to make the ramp. When I first got my game the angle was set to 6 degrees. This was maxed out (rears all the way up, front all the way down). I have an MSF that sits next to it, which uses the same legs but they're taller. I ended up buying a new set for it, then took the old rears off the MSF and moved them over to my LW3. Now the lowest angle I can set is 6 degrees. So I set the angle at 6.5 and it made a big difference...unfortunately, the one negative difference is that it was MUCH harder to hit the ramp. While trapped on the right flipper, the only way I can make the ramp is if I perfectly hit the center of the ramp dead on, and even then it barely makes it to the switch. If the ball is rolling down the guide to the flipper and I hit the ramp it carries a tad more speed through the switch, but it's still extremely difficult to hit the ramp with enough speed. This just doesn't seem right. I've seen others mention the ramp is hard to hit, but this can't be right.
I noticed that some of the flipper parts were flipped causing one of the flipper springs to be stretched, and I thought perhaps the extra tension was weakening the flipper. I decided to just rebuild both flippers. Unfortunately, it made no impact to the strength of the flippers at all.
I figure there might be 3 possible scenarios here:
1) Flipper board
2) Different coils (hesitant on this...tried this on my MSF and it got way too aggressive with too many air balls, so I reverted.)
3) Lower the angle
Any suggestions?
Quoted from slizzap:Feel free to compare against input from others, but I found this somewhere online (possibly here on Pinside) and documented it in case I ever do cabinet repair myself.
Behr Marquee
Base: MQ333
Semi-Gloss
CLRNT: DL: EL: JL: KXL:
------ --- --- --- ----
07 0 0 0 0
384th 41 238 22 128
Application:
------------
Cab top and back fine foam roller, the rest was done with brush. 1/2" slant cut for the rough in and a number 0 for around
the smaller details. All brush strokes done along the grain of the wood so it blends in.
Thanks for the paint info. I think I'm just going to touch up some bare wood first and consider the rest of the repairs/decals if I still have this machine in the summer.!
And to answer your other two questions... that solenoid fires on mine too... I think it is to simulate the gunshot. I actually like the effect. I'm way back on ROM version 2.01 awaiting new EPROMS.
Did you do a full rebuild of the flippers? The strength was equal before and after? This machine I just got has that Rottendog flipper board. Flippers don't look like they have been rebuilt recently and are very powerful. I don't know much about that board tho. The last game play thing I need to fix is to figure out why the left flipper switch is firing the flipper solenoid but not registering anything for menu options, 9-1-1 lanes etc.
Quoted from slizzap:So I've been giving my LW3 a little TLC lately, and I've got a couple issues that I figured I'd see if I could get some feedback on from here:
1) I'm not even sure if this is an issue, but looking for verification. I rebuilt my flippers today and while testing I noticed some odd behavior with the gun. When you're in the middle of a game and any mode starts that requires gunfire (movie scene, shootout, video mode, etc), when I pull the trigger it's activating the plunger solenoid. Now I might be crazy, but I'm positive this has never happened before today...it was a noticeable change. It doesn't happen mid game when the trigger does nothing, only in mode when the trigger is required. I started looking around thinking maybe wires were touching after putting the playfield back down, but they're inches apart. After thinking about it, I started thinking maybe that was normal and it wasn't working before. It does actually more or less simulate a gunshot now as there's like a force feedback. So I'm looking to see if anyone can confirm the behavior of their gun.
2) I have an issue with weak flippers, which I primarily notice due to the fact that it's very difficult to make the ramp. When I first got my game the angle was set to 6 degrees. This was maxed out (rears all the way up, front all the way down). I have an MSF that sits next to it, which uses the same legs but they're taller. I ended up buying a new set for it, then took the old rears off the MSF and moved them over to my LW3. Now the lowest angle I can set is 6 degrees. So I set the angle at 6.5 and it made a big difference...unfortunately, the one negative difference is that it was MUCH harder to hit the ramp. While trapped on the right flipper, the only way I can make the ramp is if I perfectly hit the center of the ramp dead on, and even then it barely makes it to the switch. If the ball is rolling down the guide to the flipper and I hit the ramp it carries a tad more speed through the switch, but it's still extremely difficult to hit the ramp with enough speed. This just doesn't seem right. I've seen others mention the ramp is hard to hit, but this can't be right.
I noticed that some of the flipper parts were flipped causing one of the flipper springs to be stretched, and I thought perhaps the extra tension was weakening the flipper. I decided to just rebuild both flippers. Unfortunately, it made no impact to the strength of the flippers at all.
I figure there might be 3 possible scenarios here:
1) Flipper board
2) Different coils (hesitant on this...tried this on my MSF and it got way too aggressive with too many air balls, so I reverted.)
3) Lower the angle
Any suggestions?
Your coil issue can is likely a shorted diode on the matrix of that row/column.
Flippers, are the sleeve tight inside the coils or come in/out effortlessly? If tight your coils swell up, need new coils but more inportantly fix what fried the coils.
If coilw are alright, replqce the flipper board and test.
DE has the best flippers of the 90s pinball era so you either have a mechanical or electrical problem
The coil on trigger pull is definitely meant to simulate a gun shot. It’s a menu setting somewhere. It’s not labeled as such it’s just like something ON or OFF.
Quoted from Joshjowen:Did you do a full rebuild of the flippers? The strength was equal before and after? This machine I just got has that Rottendog flipper board. Flippers don't look like they have been rebuilt recently and are very powerful. I don't know much about that board tho. The last game play thing I need to fix is to figure out why the left flipper switch is firing the flipper solenoid but not registering anything for menu options, 9-1-1 lanes etc.
Yes and yes. Mine still has the original Data East flipper board.
What angle is your game set at?
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Your coil issue can is likely a shorted diode on the matrix of that row/column.
Can you elaborate a bit on this? Not sure exactly where I should be looking to confirm what you're saying.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Flippers, are the sleeve tight inside the coils or come in/out effortlessly? If tight your coils swell up, need new coils but more inportantly fix what fried the coils.
If coilw are alright, replqce the flipper board and test.
DE has the best flippers of the 90s pinball era so you either have a mechanical or electrical problem
Yeah, I did a complete rebuild of both. They were a bit dirty, but they moved fine before and after. The orientation is now correct on both, and both are consistent.
I'm going to have to see what I can do to really narrow this down before pulling the trigger on a replacement flipper board since they cost $150.
Quoted from slizzap:So I've been giving my LW3 a little TLC lately, and I've got a couple issues that I figured I'd see if I could get some feedback on from here:
1) I'm not even sure if this is an issue, but looking for verification. I rebuilt my flippers today and while testing I noticed some odd behavior with the gun. When you're in the middle of a game and any mode starts that requires gunfire (movie scene, shootout, video mode, etc), when I pull the trigger it's activating the plunger solenoid.
2) I have an issue with weak flippers, which I primarily notice due to the fact that it's very difficult to make the ramp. When I first got my game the angle was set to 6 degrees.
For 1: this is normal. Supposed to 'feel' like a gunshot.
For 2: You may try going into the settings and increasing the flipper power? I think there was a setting for that. I know there's one for the VUK's to adjust the power.
--Chris
Quoted from slizzap:Can you elaborate a bit on this? Not sure exactly where I should be looking to confirm what you're saying.
Yeah, I did a complete rebuild of both. They were a bit dirty, but they moved fine before and after. The orientation is now correct on both, and both are consistent.
I'm going to have to see what I can do to really narrow this down before pulling the trigger on a replacement flipper board since they cost $150.
Maybe try to service your current flipper boards before ordering a new. I just traced the problem I was having with the left switch not registering to MPU to the Rottendog board. After a bit of research then testing the board had some bad transistors... Replaced and all is well now but that took a few hours to diagnose and repair. In my research it appears the flipper boards isn't one of Rottendogs better products.
After messing with this flipper board and seeing how they work I wouldn't be surprised if your issue is on the board. Instead of a regular EOS switch that is all done on the flipper boards. So you have access to another Data East machine to borrow flipper board by any chance? It's a two minute swap. It may have to be a two flipper machine for the board to swap though without looking into it further.... Maybe someone else knows for certain.
I don't know my table angle on mine but I run my machines as steep as I can. Data East flippers are not weak by any means when working right.
Quoted from slizzap:Can you elaborate a bit on this? Not sure exactly where I should be looking to confirm what you're saying.
Yeah, I did a complete rebuild of both. They were a bit dirty, but they moved fine before and after. The orientation is now correct on both, and both are consistent.
I'm going to have to see what I can do to really narrow this down before pulling the trigger on a replacement flipper board since they cost $150.
You must remove the sleeve.
Is the sleeve tight inside? Then refer to my previous message.
If the sleeve comes in and out smoothly (not the metal plunger, I am referring to the sleeve) then the problem might be elsewhere.
Tight sleeve means the coil overheated before. The plunger will travel ok with the coil is cool but as you start playing and the coil heats up then the plastic expands on already very tighy sleeve) and these slow the flippers, increasing resistance, heat and flipper fade.
Look at the sleeve first.
Quoted from slizzap:Can you elaborate a bit on this? Not sure exactly where I should be looking to confirm what you're saying.
Yeah, I did a complete rebuild of both. They were a bit dirty, but they moved fine before and after. The orientation is now correct on both, and both are consistent.
I'm going to have to see what I can do to really narrow this down before pulling the trigger on a replacement flipper board since they cost $150.
I am not familiar with the settings others just mentioned so look at that first. I do have lw3 but have not played it yet to remember.
Regardless, you can start by watching some videos on how to diagnose the matrix.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:You must remove the sleeve.
Is the sleeve tight inside? Then refer to my previous message.
If the sleeve comes in and out smoothly (not the metal plunger, I am referring to the sleeve) then the problem might be elsewhere.
Tight sleeve means the coil overheated before. The plunger will travel ok with the coil is cool but as you start playing and the coil heats up then the plastic expands on already very tighy sleeve) and these slow the flippers, increasing resistance, heat and flipper fade.
Look at the sleeve first.
I did a complete flipper rebuild for both flippers, which includes replacing the sleeves. They removed without a problem and the new ones inserted without a problem. This was no different than the other games I have that I have worked on, and nothing was abnormal here. So based on that it sounds like the coil is not at issue in this case.
Thanks for the input.
Quoted from christr:For 2: You may try going into the settings and increasing the flipper power? I think there was a setting for that. I know there's one for the VUK's to adjust the power.
--Chris
Good call! Adjustment 36 is "Coils Pulse", which is set to NORMAL (default setting). Setting to HARD would increase the coil pulse power by 12.5% according to the manual. I'll try that and see how it plays.
Quoted from Joshjowen:After messing with this flipper board and seeing how they work I wouldn't be surprised if your issue is on the board. Instead of a regular EOS switch that is all done on the flipper boards. So you have access to another Data East machine to borrow flipper board by any chance? It's a two minute swap. It may have to be a two flipper machine for the board to swap though without looking into it further....
I thought about the same, as I have an MSF sitting right next to it. However, that's a 3 flipper machine, and has a different flipper board. I haven't looked closer to see if I could still test with it and just use 2 of the 3 inputs, but I'll save that for after trying adjustment 36.
Oh and thanks to everyone for confirming the behavior of the gun. I even asked my wife, who plays it quite a bit, and she doesn't recall it giving that kickback when pulling the trigger. I have no idea what I did, but apparently I unknowingly fixed a problem I didn't even know I had!
Quoted from slizzap:I did a complete flipper rebuild for both flippers, which includes replacing the sleeves. They removed without a problem and the new ones inserted without a problem. This was no different than the other games I have that I have worked on, and nothing was abnormal here. So based on that it sounds like the coil is not at issue in this case.
Thanks for the input.
Are the flippers gapped 1/16” between the plunger arm and the bushing?
Do you have the right coil installed? Have you cross check the coil # against the manual?
Quoted from slizzap:Good call! Adjustment 36 is "Coils Pulse", which is set to NORMAL (default setting). Setting to HARD would increase the coil pulse power by 12.5% according to the manual. I'll try that and see how it plays.
Switched this adjustment to HARD and it made zero difference. Oddly enough I noticed inconsistency as I was testing and focusing on the right flipper. From a trap it still barely made it up the ramp and past the switch...just like before. On the way down from that same shot it rolled down the guide to the flipper at speed and I hit the ramp dead on and it made it past the switch with just a tad more speed. Behavior the same as before. During the same game, I was able to hit another back to back up the ramp like that, starting from a trap and barely making it past the switch. However, this 2nd time when the ball came down and rolled to the flipper with speed and I hit the ramp dead on again it didn't make it all the way up the ramp. It wasn't even close, maybe made it 2/3rds of the way up the ramp.
I tried disconnecting and reconnecting both plugs on the flipper board. Perhaps this is looking more like the flipper board. I do have some slightly more powerful coils I can throw in there for testing. Curious if that helps.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Are the flippers gapped 1/16” between the plunger arm and the bushing?
Yes, I have one of these that I used when resetting the flippers:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0162-00
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Do you have the right coil installed? Have you cross check the coil # against the manual?
Yes. I confirmed the part number against the manual. I looked at this at the time I was placing my order for the flipper rebuild kit in case I needed new coils.
Quoted from slizzap:Yes, I have one of these that I used when resetting the flippers:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0162-00Yes. I confirmed the part number against the manual. I looked at this at the time I was placing my order for the flipper rebuild kit in case I needed new coils.
Ok so if they move well by hand without any binding then it is looking like electrical.
Have you measured the Voltage at the lugs?
If you want to get crazy... If machines are sitting right next to each other anyway... Completely disconnect the wires going to your MSF flipper mechs then run that connection instead over to the flippers on the LW3 and see if that changes the power... Then you will know for sure if it's the actual flipper mechs or board.
Before I really dig into any of the electronics, I want to take a closer look at the flippers mechs. One of the things that prompted me to rebuild the flippers is due to the orientation of the flippers and the springs. I figured getting a rebuild kit would ensure I have the correct parts. Here's what's confounding me and making me think I'm onto something...
The flippers have the correct vertical play due to using the flipper gauge tool, but when the spring is attached it really doesn't have any vertical play because of the spring tension. When I compare against my other machines, they all have vertical play just by using my hands to lift the flipper bat up and down. Secondly, because of the spring tension on the flippers, it takes more effort to manually move the flipper upwards with my finger compared to my other machines.
Take a look at these comparison shots between the flipper mechs for my Lethal Weapon 3 and Mary Shelley's Frankenstein. See how much tension is on the spring for the LW3 mechs while at rest compared to MSF?
Lethal Weapon 3:
20221223_160840 (resized).jpg
Mary Shelley's Frankenstein:
20221223_160922 (resized).jpg
I feel like this spring tension is the cause for my problems. It sure seems like I should have a longer spring here. I started researching in this thread and came across some interesting pictures and a related discussion starting here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dataeast-leathal-weapon-3-lw3-club-join-if-you-have-one-or-haf-one/page/30#post-6541359
Notice the bracket attached to the mech where the spring connects to versus mine...this creates much less tension on the spring and it's not even stretched. I feel like I need to find a different spring, but I'm going to have a difficult time finding the right part number.
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