(Topic ID: 72256)

DataEast - Lethal Weapon 3 (lw3) club - Join if you have one or haf one...

By mima

8 years ago


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  • 1,902 posts
  • 224 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by slizzap
  • Topic is favorited by 115 Pinsiders

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“I am planing to make my self a set of repro plastics and are considering a making a very very limited run of sets. Are there any interest out there for this?”

  • I would run and grab me a set since there are no NOS made for this pin 58 votes
    45%
  • I would want to get a few single plastics, some are missing on my pin 52 votes
    40%
  • My pin has some beaten up plastics but I prefeer original plastics 4 votes
    3%
  • Nah, waste of moey. the pin plays well without / with warped and beaten up -plastics. 16 votes
    12%

(130 votes)

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#1851 48 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

3) Most of these are likely all superficial, but looking to get input. The most important concern is the first photo showing a comparison of the left and right outlane. It appears to me the left outlane should have a post with rubber to match what's on the right outlane, but looking for confirmation.
[quoted image]
For the rest, it looks as if someone that serviced this pin in the past may have just used whatever hardware they had on hand to fasten various pieces to the playfield. However, some of these are using plastic standoffs with screws that make me question whether they were propping up a piece of plastic or something else above it, or if it's simply incorrect and should be a simple screw/nut.
Any input is greatly appreciated![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those posts keep airballs from getting stuck in those locations.

#1852 48 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

3) Most of these are likely all superficial, but looking to get input. The most important concern is the first photo showing a comparison of the left and right outlane. It appears to me the left outlane should have a post with rubber to match what's on the right outlane, but looking for confirmation.
[quoted image]
For the rest, it looks as if someone that serviced this pin in the past may have just used whatever hardware they had on hand to fasten various pieces to the playfield. However, some of these are using plastic standoffs with screws that make me question whether they were propping up a piece of plastic or something else above it, or if it's simply incorrect and should be a simple screw/nut.
Any input is greatly appreciated![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Slizzap,

Welcome. And all good questions. I'll try and answer a few of them, easy ones first maybe...

Ok, so the last two photos of your #3 and possibly superficial posts... those are definitely supposed to be there. They are intended to stop any errant air balls (of which there are many on this game as it sounds like you already know) from getting stuck. Those two spots stop the ball from getting wedged in between the side of the cabinet and the plastics or flasher dome, etc.

The wire gate leaving the number three hole is an interesting observation / question too... because I have that exact same hex bolt on top of mine. And not sure why... may be another thing to limit where errant balls could get wedged. Stay tuned on that one as I'll keep looking...

I get far too many rejects out of hole #3 too. Not anywhere near as high as 90%, but probably 2 or 3 out of 10 I'd say. Definitely enough that when I shoot for that hole I try and baby it in there by either trying to hit it soft or glance it purposely off the sides as it goes up into the catch.

When you mentioned taking off the plastic and looking to see if you could add some padding to the bracket, you do indeed have a bracket, right? Your photo has it removed, which I think you just did to show that post without a ring, but wanted to confirm.

I think I put a rubber ring or post sleeve on that post up in there too. Not clear to me whether it is technically supposed to be there or not. I'll look into that one a little more as well...

The two outlanes are different on my game as well. Right side has a post with a ring like yours, however, the left side does not. It could though as the tiny hole is there for it. I think I have tried one in there at times as it can go down that left outlane a lot when you play and the kickback is not always lit to save you. Again, not sure on that for certain either. Hopefully you asking gets a few more of the LW3 veterans to chime in.

That centre plastic you mentioned is part of the full replacement plastic set. I have a attached a photo. It is the one in the upper left hand corner. I'm not sure what the specific part number is for ordering it separately, or who has them for sale.

lw3plas01 (resized).jpg
#1853 48 days ago

I have noticed on a few of Data East's, they have pre drilled an indication mark for the outlane posts but it appears they were never installed. My JP, Simpsons, TFTC have these indication marks). Maybe it was up to the owner/operator if they wanted them installed or not? More drains may mean more plays back when these were made to make money.

#1854 48 days ago

For those that got new legs, are the modern Stern black ones close enough?

#1855 48 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Sure. Let me dig that out and what I have left. I think that plastic is nice but the small clear piece attached to it may not be. That should be easy to make though. Will check.

The small clear piece attached to the top of mine appears to be in good condition. Unfortunately, it's riveted on the bottom and side...so, I don't think I have the tools/ability to transfer that over. Keep me posted.

Thanks!

#1856 48 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

They were never factory issue.

Ah OK. In that case, please add me to the list for if you get enough requests to produce another run.

Thanks!

#1857 48 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

When you mentioned taking off the plastic and looking to see if you could add some padding to the bracket, you do indeed have a bracket, right? Your photo has it removed, which I think you just did to show that post without a ring, but wanted to confirm.

Yep, that is correct. I have the metal bracket and the plastic piece above it. I just happened to take this picture when all of that was removed. I was taking a closer look at the metal bracket to see what could be added to it. Mine already has a thin (1/8" maybe) piece of foam on the area the ball would hit, but it's not very soft...it seems that it would more likely bounce it more than absorb the impact. I think it could probably benefit from using one of those thicker/softer foam pieces, maybe even doubling them up. Maybe the combination of that plus the rubber for the adjacent post will do the trick.

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

The wire gate leaving the number three hole is an interesting observation / question too... because I have that exact same hex bolt on top of mine. And not sure why... may be another thing to limit where errant balls could get wedged. Stay tuned on that one as I'll keep looking...

I think I put a rubber ring or post sleeve on that post up in there too. Not clear to me whether it is technically supposed to be there or not. I'll look into that one a little more as well...

The two outlanes are different on my game as well. Right side has a post with a ring like yours, however, the left side does not. It could though as the tiny hole is there for it. I think I have tried one in there at times as it can go down that left outlane a lot when you play and the kickback is not always lit to save you. Again, not sure on that for certain either. Hopefully you asking gets a few more of the LW3 veterans to chime in.

Thanks for the input on these as well. I'm basically an outsider since this pin is new to me, and looking at this pin these just didn't seem correct. So it's interesting to see these very well may be stock configurations. I'll also be curious to see if anyone else chimes in to see if they made any adjustments especially with the left outlane post...and if so, if that improved the game in any way.

#1858 48 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

One of these days I'll get around to running off a dozen or so.[quoted image]

I would take one if you make another run.. amd where did you find the bike?

#1859 48 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

The small clear piece attached to the top of mine appears to be in good condition. Unfortunately, it's riveted on the bottom and side...so, I don't think I have the tools/ability to transfer that over.

I have a rivet press and can re-rivet that stuff for you if you find a replacement plastic.

#1860 48 days ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I have a rivet press and can re-rivet that stuff for you if you find a replacement plastic.

Oh nice. Thanks for the offer!

#1862 48 days ago
Quoted from Demonstyl:

I would take one if you make another run.. amd where did you find the bike?

Ebay.

#1863 47 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

For those that got new legs, are the modern Stern black ones close enough?

I have my LW3 right beside my World Poker Tour (Stern 2006). I'll try and get a photo for you showing the legs. Stern legs are two inches longer and the holes to mount them are higher up on the Stern for that reason. I think it would make your LW3 noticeably higher. Like gigantic looking even. The mounting holes and shape are fine, the issue is the length.

#1864 47 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I have my LW3 right beside my World Poker Tour (Stern 2006). I'll try and get a photo for you showing the legs. Stern legs are two inches longer and the holes to mount them are higher up on the Stern for that reason. I think it would make your LW3 noticeably higher. Like gigantic looking even. The mounting holes and shape are fine, the issue is the length.

Thanks Alex! So BW 28.5” legs it will be in black.

#1865 47 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

The small clear piece attached to the top of mine appears to be in good condition. Unfortunately, it's riveted on the bottom and side...so, I don't think I have the tools/ability to transfer that over. Keep me posted.
Thanks!

You’d need to swap over that clear plastic piece. Some people have drilled the old rivets out and the just replace with screws. If you think you can use it let me know. Feel free to throw out an offer on everything pictured as I don’t have a LW3 so no need for me to keep them.

6738005C-B65F-4FD3-8AA1-AA1382E2C1F9 (resized).jpegC695F3C3-2ADB-45BE-A820-CBF00AD4407C (resized).jpeg
#1866 43 days ago
Quoted from rwmech5:

No, they're listed as #7 in the manual on page 40 but not shown. They go between what's listed as #18 Pivot shaft and #15 Target lift bracket. Mine was missing 1 side and was binding off and on.

Bang on with the advice. Cheers!

#1867 42 days ago

Hey guys. It looks like I was able to fix my issue with bounce-outs from saucer #3 and just wanted to share my fix in case it helps others. I haven't really seen details of what others have done to fix/reduce this issue throughout this thread, except for maybe foam...but that in itself didn't help for me. 90% of my shots up to the #3 saucer would end up bouncing back down the lane. I picked up a couple of these blue damper pads (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6645) to play around with.

First attempt I simply peeled off the adhesive backing and stuck it to the back of the deflector. This made zero impact.

Second attempt I used an exacto knife and cut away some of the material to create an angle at the point of impact. My rationale was that it would absorb some of the impact and kick it up to the ceiling of the deflector, which would absorb a bit more of the impact and bounce it down into the saucer. Here's what this attempt looked like:
20220517_135856 (resized).jpg

This perhaps made it slightly better, but it still bounced out frequently. However, while testing repeatedly, and since I kept moving the pad around trying different methods, the adhesion wore off and it stopped sticking. It ultimately fell over into the position shown below, which was basically the entire face of the pad at a 45 degree angle. This brought my bounce-outs from ~90% down to ~5%...no joke. I hit the saucer repeatedly, even some direct hit full speed shots, and now I would say it rarely bounces out.
20220517_183224 (resized).jpg

I ended up taking the rubber ring off the adjacent post because after the bounce-outs stopped I started focusing on the eject to the bumpers. When it ejects from the #3 saucer, 25% of the time it ejects through the gate, and the remaining 75% of the time it seems to either hit the post or deflector and fall to the side but not go through the gate, then come down the #3 lane. I'm going to see if I can play around with the mounting a bit to see if I can force it to the gate more consistently. I'm also having an issue with the #1 saucer after removing it to replace the targets. Despite using the same mounting holes and seemingly putting it back exactly where it was, it now goes right down the middle 99% of the time, whereas before I was at least able to nick it with the tip of the left flipper and send it over to the right flipper. Will probably just have to play around with the mounting there as well too, but definitely open to suggestions for both of these if anyone has any.

#1868 41 days ago

Nice idea, I also have more pop outs from the #3 spot so I may try something similar. Also, same issue on my High Speed.

#1869 41 days ago

I finally got through all the cut scenes once in a game (3 ball not 5 ball for cheaters)....I assume if you clear them all onc ethen the scenes become random?

I set a high score....it was a great game for me. Just curious of hte rules after you clear all the cut scenes?

#1870 41 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I finally got through all the cut scenes once in a game (3 ball not 5 ball for cheaters)....I assume if you clear them all onc ethen the scenes become random?
I set a high score....it was a great game for me. Just curious of hte rules after you clear all the cut scenes?

It just starts over again at the 5 million award and then the 10, 15, etc. Kind of like beating Nintendo Kung-Fu back in the day where Thomas rescues the girl from Mr X. Oh hey you saved her, congrats, now go do it again lol.

#1871 41 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

It just starts over again at the 5 million award and then the 10, 15, etc. Kind of like beating Nintendo Kung-Fu back in the day where Thomas rescues the girl from Mr X. Oh hey you saved her, congrats, now go do it again lol.

Well it was fun either way....

#1872 41 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Well it was fun either way....

I'm glad to hear you're enjoying playing the game after you got it finished. I still enjoy playing mine. Rare bit of uniqueness with all the different modes and mini-games on the display or otherwise. And for sure rewarding and entertaining getting all those saucer modes finished. I gotta try and focus on getting the orbits and uzi clip modes done as I rarely get through all of those in a game. Not sure I've ever gotten both of those main modes done together in a single game.

#1873 41 days ago

Just out of curiosity, what setting do you guys use for Adjustment 50 "Earning LW 1,2,3"? The factory setting allows you to hit the saucers in any order. I have the Chad ROM, which has it defaulted to Extra Hard, which requires always hitting the saucers in order 1-2-3. When I got the game it was set on Hard, and I was typically getting 1 or 2 scenes, rare occasions hitting scene 3 (toilet). I changed this to the factory setting and I've been regularly making it to scenes 3-5.

#1874 41 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

Just out of curiosity, what setting do you guys use for Adjustment 50 "Earning LW 1,2,3"? The factory setting allows you to hit the saucers in any order. I have the Chad ROM, which has it defaulted to Extra Hard, which requires always hitting the saucers in order 1-2-3. When I got the game it was set on Hard, and I was typically getting 1 or 2 scenes, rare occasions hitting scene 3 (toilet). I changed this to the factory setting and I've been regularly making it to scenes 3-5.

I have it set to any order, not to make it easier but I just don’t like the idea of a shot being worthless to start the game. Plus it gets really fun when everything is running. Set to extra hard and in order would certainly make it much more challenging to get through all the scenes. I prefer the stacking of everything this game has to offer instead of the typical you are in a mode so everything else is off or you are in multiball so everything else is off. Being in multiball, picking off scenes, loading the uzi, getting super spinner and getaway and jackpots all running at the same time is a thrill! One time I had so much running at once, I think all of the above and maybe looping or crazy rigs the game just couldn’t handle it, it made a loud beep noise and reset.
I can usually get through all the scenes or to super lethal weapon in a game if I just concentrate on one or the other. Good games I will get to both. Really good games I will do both and one of them twice. Best ever I’ve done both scenes and super lethal weapon twice in a game, almost a billion points.

#1875 41 days ago

Mine is the Chad ROM and I guess it makes sense to do it in order.

It’s been so long since I played the original code.

#1876 41 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Mine is the Chad ROM and I guess it makes sense to do it in order.
It’s been so long since I played the original code.

You can set it to random order with chads code as well

#1877 41 days ago

I remember the response to Chad's code when it first came out was very polarised. People either loved it with the scoring improved and bugs gone or didn't as they felt some of the changes took away the speed, craziness and randomness of the game.. Personally , I havnt played the new code yet.

#1878 36 days ago

Picked up a LW3 over the weekend. It has a nice playfield and looks mostly already filled with comet LED's. Currently it partially boots with (some) GI, music, no DMD, and a random coil pop once in a while. The GI looks to be a connector issue. When I fiddle with one of the IDC connectors the rest of the GI will come on. That will get re-pinned along with a trifurcon connector. The MPU is original and does not appear to have any corrosion that I can see, unless it is underneath the battery pack. Its a clean board. A couple of the other boards are aftermarket. I haven't gone further than this at this point.

I have just began looking into the various and common problem points on a DE machine as this is my first. I have headers/trifurcon connectors/pins. I plan to rebuild the flippers too. Anything unique I should throw in the parts order?

#1879 36 days ago

I'd grab some spare drop target parts and maybe check the pop bumpers for cracks in the housing. I sent my boards in for service and ordered the Chad roms. Fun game.

#1880 36 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Picked up a LW3 over the weekend. It has a nice playfield and looks mostly already filled with comet LED's. Currently it partially boots with (some) GI, music, no DMD, and a random coil pop once in a while. The GI looks to be a connector issue. When I fiddle with one of the IDC connectors the rest of the GI will come on. That will get re-pinned along with a trifurcon connector. The MPU is original and does not appear to have any corrosion that I can see, unless it is underneath the battery pack. Its a clean board. A couple of the other boards are aftermarket. I haven't gone further than this at this point.
I have just began looking into the various and common problem points on a DE machine as this is my first. I have headers/trifurcon connectors/pins. I plan to rebuild the flippers too. Anything unique I should throw in the parts order?

Check your voltages first- 5v 12v 100/110v etc

No DMD might be the ribbon cable off a pin or backwards.

Check the 12 pin connector (C12?) on the right side of the power board, not uncommon to have a few toasty pins there. I think its a 3 x 4 connector. If a pin or two is crusty there, unplugging and plugging back in might bring function back up.

Do you hear "were back in action" when the pin starts? The sound board will state that independent of the MPU but requires some of the same voltages as the MPU so if no sound board the 5V/12V might be missing.

#1881 36 days ago

Thanks for the input gents. I will certainly check the spots mentioned. I also read about the LED lights on the MPU and need to check those at startup. I know after its on, only the 5v is lit, nothing from the other two. I will watch it to see if there is an error message next time.

#1882 32 days ago

PIA light flashes very briefly at startup. I do get the quick back in action callout. The boards actually look really nice. Some are new repro, power supply is a rottendog and the playfield power board is a gulf pinball. The mpu has no corrosion at all. Connectors and headers (including the 4x3 molex mentioned above) all look pretty nice as well. I have been reading through the pinwiki articles and Clay's guides. I don't have the test rom, but I was thinking about ordering that along with all the Chad 3.0 roms. I need to take a look at what I have for the display roms to make sure I order the correct chip.
Pop bumpers and drop targets all look to be in really nice shape top side.

#1883 32 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

PIA light flashes very briefly at startup. I do get the quick back in action callout. The boards actually look really nice. Some are new repro, power supply is a rottendog and the playfield power board is a gulf pinball. The mpu has no corrosion at all. Connectors and headers (including the 4x3 molex mentioned above) all look pretty nice as well. I have been reading through the pinwiki articles and Clay's guides. I don't have the test rom, but I was thinking about ordering that along with all the Chad 3.0 roms. I need to take a look at what I have for the display roms to make sure I order the correct chip.
Pop bumpers and drop targets all look to be in really nice shape top side.

Check the 5v, the RD board is a big red flag in my experience.

#1884 32 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

PIA light flashes very briefly at startup. I do get the quick back in action callout. The boards actually look really nice. Some are new repro, power supply is a rottendog and the playfield power board is a gulf pinball. The mpu has no corrosion at all. Connectors and headers (including the 4x3 molex mentioned above) all look pretty nice as well. I have been reading through the pinwiki articles and Clay's guides. I don't have the test rom, but I was thinking about ordering that along with all the Chad 3.0 roms. I need to take a look at what I have for the display roms to make sure I order the correct chip.
Pop bumpers and drop targets all look to be in really nice shape top side.

After successful boot, you should have 2 led’s lit on the mpu board (left = blanking and middle = 5v). I have known games only partially boot. Power of and try again.

I am working on a DE JP at the moment that has random reset and video freezing issues.

Skippy2904

#1885 31 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Check the 5v, the RD board is a big red flag in my experience.

I have 4.96 at the +5v to near cn17 on the mpu. On the power board I have voltages that all look pretty close to spot on at cn5 and cn6.

It looks like my issues is on the mpu at this point. I have the Leon test rom coming along with the 3.0 set. I grabbed a 6802 and a pia chip just in case as well.

#1886 27 days ago

Just joined the LW3 club!!! Been waiting for this baby to get delivered so I read the entire 38 pages of this thread in preparation… I’m glad I did too! Thanks to everyone posting in here. Some great info for sure!

87831F37-9A02-4C5C-87DB-37A5BB933B32 (resized).jpeg
#1887 27 days ago

Welcome to pinside. Looks like ya got room for 2 more!

#1888 26 days ago

Alright, I’ve looked everywhere I can think of and can’t figure this out.

I just added code V3.01 to my machine and I can’t figure out any way to change the extra ball award. It used to award it after 3 ramp shots. It currently awards an extra ball after 17 ramp shots. I’m not nearly good enough to make that many in a game.

I have adjusted the extra ball percentage to be 0 which I understand I should do. The game is set for factory or easy right now.

Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? Is this just a function of the new code that can’t be changed? Thanks!

#1889 25 days ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Welcome to pinside. Looks like ya got room for 2 more!

This is my first but I already have a deposit down on a second pinball! Was thinking maybe a 10,000 in 1 arcade too possibly.

Quoted from sawamular:

Alright, I’ve looked everywhere I can think of and can’t figure this out.
I just added code V3.01 to my machine and I can’t figure out any way to change the extra ball award. It used to award it after 3 ramp shots. It currently awards an extra ball after 17 ramp shots. I’m not nearly good enough to make that many in a game.
I have adjusted the extra ball percentage to be 0 which I understand I should do. The game is set for factory or easy right now.
Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? Is this just a function of the new code that can’t be changed? Thanks!

Mine awards a free ball at 162,000,000. Also running 3.01
So far high score only 154 mil.

#1890 25 days ago
Quoted from Utubereefer:

Mine awards a free ball at 162,000,000. Also running 3.01
So far high score only 154 mil.

Thanks for the response, I was able to score 262 million last night and still did not get an extra ball. This leads me to believe there is a setting difference somewhere. Are you using the default setting for v3.01 or have you made adjustments? If you are on default I can probably change mine back to see if that makes a difference. I just can't think what it would be, I've combed through both the manual and the guide on pinballcode.com

#1891 25 days ago

I think extra ball changes depending on how well you do. I haven't seen one in a long time (new code and old code). I'm pretty sure I reset the old code and it came back to being 3 ramps, but since mine is at home, the better I did, the harder it got. If its set for a score threshold, that's a different setting (free game vs extra ball). There are a bunch of novelty settings and stuff do that change things, which the manual isn't so clear about.

I'd reset, change some settings and test with the glass off to see if it changes. I think ChadH would have fixed this if he could have.

#1892 24 days ago

Well crap… I pull the trigger and nothing happens. I’m guessing I gotta replace the shooter solenoid. Does this part number looks right?

image (resized).jpg
#1893 24 days ago
Quoted from Utubereefer:

Well crap… I pull the trigger and nothing happens. I’m guessing I gotta replace the shooter solenoid. Does this part number looks right?
[quoted image]

Before replacing a coil, check the switch, diode, and connectivity. Coils are less likely to fail.

#1894 24 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Before replacing a coil, check the switch, diode, and connectivity. Coils are less likely to fail.

On second look the wire pulled out of the connection. Back in action! Thanks for the heads up!

#1895 22 days ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I'd reset, change some settings and test with the glass off to see if it changes. I think ChadH would have fixed this if he could have.

Thanks for the advice, I think I will do a factory reset and see if that changes or makes something more apparent.

1 week later
#1896 12 days ago
Quoted from sawamular:

Thanks for the advice, I think I will do a factory reset and see if that changes or makes something more apparent.

Also using Chad's code, and miss the "3 ramp shots for extra ball". Am curious if you figure out a setting to re-enable this.

#1897 12 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

Also using Chad's code, and miss the "3 ramp shots for extra ball". Am curious if you figure out a setting to re-enable this.

I'm a bad player but wasn't getting an extra ball for 3 ramp shots a bit too easy on the original software

#1898 12 days ago
Quoted from harig:

I'm a bad player but wasn't getting an extra ball for 3 ramp shots a bit too easy on the original software

I'm pretty sure with Chad's code it will keep increasing and max out at 17 ramps lights extra ball.

#1899 12 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

One of these days I'll get around to running off a dozen or so.[quoted image]

I would take a couple of them if you make some more.. definitely need one.. way too many airballs off the drops

#1900 11 days ago

Summary of what all has been done to this LW3 I have:
Non-booting, no DMD, flaky at best GI, etc- went through the main chips, CPU, RAM, ROM. Swapped to no avail. Was about to send the MPU off when I found a random solder blob shorting two pins on the back side of the MPU. Removed that and the game booted with DMD, attract mode, etc

Now that it was booting, the trough kicker was not firing. I had voltage, coil fired when I shorted the transistor to ground. Transistor has been replaced at some point previously and I found one of the legs was not making connectivity due to a obliterated pad. I fixed that up and put in a TIP 102 since the transistor that was there was reading a little different than all the others. Then the coil was locked on. Back to beeping out the board. ChrisHibler was giving me advice along the way and suggested the 7408 upstream. I installed a socket and a new chip and we are "Back in Action!".

Big thanks to Chris.

Today I swapped the IDC connector for the GI with a trifurcon. GI is fully working.

I also put in a flipper rebuild kit from pinballlife. I bought the kit that was listed for LW3. When installed the stoke is very short on the flippers. When aligned at the holes with the mech resting on the rubber nub, the flippers only got to "flat" or even when fully raised. I did some bending work on the rubber stop end of the bracket to get some more stroke travel. I also worked on grinding off a bit of one of the coil stops to get more travel. I probably have to do a bit more to make them match. I was wondering if this one had something different, but the parts look similar to other machines that I saw pics of.
Anyone else have any weird issues with flippers?

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